Why I Stopped Testing My Water Years Ago

Hi FishLore,

I often get asked about the importance of testing water in a planted tank. Though my technique and experience is not applicable to everyone, I felt that it would be good to share.

I've been in this hobby for about 12-13 years now and if there's anything that I've learned, it's that testing your water does not matter for planted tanks specifically (this advice does not apply to the 'regular' fish keeping hobby that focuses more on the fish than the plants).

Often, testing the water will lead to a tunnel vision where the hobbyist has a difficult time having success with a planted aquarium because they are too focused on parameters. I think fish-keeping is mostly to blame for that, since a huge emphasis is rightly put upon testing the water.

For instance, a common scenario that I often see goes as follows.

A person new to planted tanks starts their first planted tank. They may have even bought some fertilizer, but they're very hesitant to use it. This is because they've been testing their water religiously, and their nitrate test reads a whopping 10ppm. But the plants aren't growing. It's been over a month and they're starting to become sickly. But how is that possible? There's 10ppm nitrate and it's only increasing! If they dose the fertilizer, they're certain it will cause algae because anything over 10ppm nitrate = algae bloom. It's just not true in most cases.
The solution is that they should still dose the fertilizer because the plants only have usable nitrate in the water, but are lacking phosphate, potassium, and other nutrients needed for the plants to actually start growing. The nitrate is increasing because the plants can't utilize the existing nitrate due to other nutrient limitations they are facing.

The reality is that chasing certain water parameters often lead people to switch things up drastically on their planted tanks, or simply take care of them incorrectly, which leads to more frustration down the road.

Another issue at the higher level would be growing plants like rotala macrandra. People are almost certain they can't grow a plant because of their water quality. And while this is true for people with exceptionally extreme water parameters, nearly all plants can thrive in most of the water around the country. There are a select few clients I've helped that have had issues specifically with their water quality, but their parameters were extreme and were sourced from their water municipality report to negate test kit error.

I have moderately hard water with a GH of 12-13 and a KH of 6.5ish. Yet, I'm still able to grow rotala macrandra and other difficult plants quite easily, which are supposed to be sensitive to high GHs and KHs.

The key is consistency and using the right tools in the planted tank hobby. If you practice great plant husbandry techniques (link here) and have the right equipment, you have already done the lion's share of work in creating healthy planted tanks. Water parameters are more of a guide, rather than an end all be all for planted tanks.

I've stopped testing my water because for me, there is simply no use anymore. I watch my plants and my fish. If something is wrong, I can address that through some research and experimentation. For me personally, when things tend to go wrong, it's usually because I've been disturbing the ecosystem and/or being lazy with maintenance. It has never been an issue with water parameters. To add onto that, I don't recommend buffering the tank or adding a bunch of unnecessary chemicals so that your water can match certain parameters for short periods of time.

Instead, long term stability and consistency are better for a planted aquarium than chasing after certain water parameters.

 

Great post I tested my water once to see if it was cycled and what the PH was and let it be after that and the tank is doing great.

 

I can not agree with you anymore on this,

 

True - though I always get worried when someone says something like this because while you can safely maintain a tank if you know what warning signs to look for, I can't help but think of a beginner taking this as an excuse to not test their tank. You know what to look for because you did test, and now you know what bad conditions look like without needing to test for it.

Of course, once you do have a better understanding, it becomes a lot easier to keep fish. For me it's taken a good 3 months or so of research before being able to say that I know anything about fish, because there's so much confusion about so much stuff.

 

True - though I always get worried when someone says something like this because while you can safely maintain a tank if you know what warning signs to look for, I can't help but think of a beginner taking this as an excuse to not test their tank. You know what to look for because you did test, and now you know what bad conditions look like without needing to test for it.

Of course, once you do have a better understanding, it becomes a lot easier to keep fish. For me it's taken a good 3 months or so of research before being able to say that I know anything about fish, because there's so much confusion about so much stuff.

For most of my clients that I create aquascapes for, I do not advise them to test water, but they continue to be successful because I give them a simple to do list. For example, 2 squirts of ferts on Monday, 10% water change on sunday, trimming every 2-3 months depending on the tank. On water change day, they need to make sure the flow of their filter is still up to par and that all debris/waste is removed. Done.

Water parameters in a planted tank will not tell you much. I could have "perfect" parameters like 0 nitrate, 0 nitrite, and 0 ammonia with terrible plant growth. I could also have 40ppm nitrate and have amazing plants and thriving fish. Water parameters really do matter more for fish keepers and I would agree that beginner fish keepers shouldn't use this post to slack off on testing. But if they're keeping planted tanks with the purpose of creating the best planted tanks, then testing the water makes little to no difference.

If you are continuing to do consistent water changes, fertilization and have a high quality light, substrate, filtration, and even CO2, etc. then you will not run into any issues.

 

Hmm... Your title caught my eye.
Thanks! You have offered some "Good" information and simple advice but as mentioned it must be stressed this is not for the beginner. Most here do not have a veteran guide whom set up their aquascapes.
I still consider myself a relative newbie (3 years in), well maybe a junior in my "Underwater Gardening" journey. I remember when I first started and viewing the "Beautiful Planted Tanks", my immediate thought was "I want one". After researching and more researching my head was spinning. Little did I know how much is involved with keeping healthy, thriving fish which is a daunting task, let alone plants.
I very rarely test now, mainly test when setting up a "New" tank. Only due to the experience and knowledge shared on forums, along with members and my own trials and tribulations.
In my short journey thus far I have found that,
"Every tank is as different as a finger print", it is about balance.
I do agree with your last comment (except for the CO2 never tried it):

If you are continuing to do consistent water changes, fertilization and have a high quality light, substrate, filtration, and even CO2, etc

Just my .02.

Learning all the Time!

 

I'd agree up to a point. When we realised that the only parameter that changed once the tank was mature and CO2 introduced was nitrate we stopped religiously testing too. However, still do a stick test just before a water change. Things do change in a tank - hardscape gets added and removed. Mistakes get made maybe crashing a cycle. Fish go missing on occasion. I look at my stick tests - all is the same each week - 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, super high nitrates (up to 100ppm) - same GH/KH - same PH.
It keeps me reassured. It takes 30 - 40 seconds.
Something could go wrong with CO2 pushing PH down - maybe new fish have tipped us over the limit - maybe a new plant or new hardscape has introduced something.
So we take 40 seconds each week then, like you, watch our fish and plants to tell us what's really going on.
I'd rather come across an ammonia or nitrite spike from a stick test than from a dead fish.

 

....though saying that nothing has ever happened in the last two years so maybe you're right....

 

Loved the read-
And it made me think of an other read/or was it video!? I found a while back saying that once you have been in the hobby for a good while you learn more about your water quality by look and smell then general testing.
Theres apparently a lot of visual signs of change in water parameters before it becomes bad, sudden change in smell and stuff I do not yet have any experience to explain.

 

Hmm... Your title caught my eye.
Thanks! You have offered some "Good" information and simple advice but as mentioned it must be stressed this is not for the beginner. Most here do not have a veteran guide whom set up their aquascapes.
I still consider myself a relative newbie (3 years in), well maybe a junior in my "Underwater Gardening" journey. I remember when I first started and viewing the "Beautiful Planted Tanks", my immediate thought was "I want one". After researching and more researching my head was spinning. Little did I know how much is involved with keeping healthy, thriving fish which is a daunting task, let alone plants.
I very rarely test now, mainly test when setting up a "New" tank. Only due to the experience and knowledge shared on forums, along with members and my own trials and tribulations.
In my short journey thus far I have found that,
"Every tank is as different as a finger print", it is about balance.
I do agree with your last comment (except for the CO2 never tried it):


Just my .02.

Learning all the Time!

Thank you for your input! You are most definitely right, I love that "every tank is as different as a finger print" comment. Very true!

Out of curiosity, what does testing the water help you do in the context of a planted tank? So let's say you test the water and you get the subsequent results - what next? What did the test help you realize or start doing?

I'd agree up to a point. When we realised that the only parameter that changed once the tank was mature and CO2 introduced was nitrate we stopped religiously testing too. However, still do a stick test just before a water change. Things do change in a tank - hardscape gets added and removed. Mistakes get made maybe crashing a cycle. Fish go missing on occasion. I look at my stick tests - all is the same each week - 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, super high nitrates (up to 100ppm) - same GH/KH - same PH.
It keeps me reassured. It takes 30 - 40 seconds.
Something could go wrong with CO2 pushing PH down - maybe new fish have tipped us over the limit - maybe a new plant or new hardscape has introduced something.
So we take 40 seconds each week then, like you, watch our fish and plants to tell us what's really going on.
I'd rather come across an ammonia or nitrite spike from a stick test than from a dead fish.

I like this mentality, it's very balanced. Thank you for sharing this.

Loved the read-
And it made me think of an other read/or was it video!? I found a while back saying that once you have been in the hobby for a good while you learn more about your water quality by look and smell then general testing.
Theres apparently a lot of visual signs of change in water parameters before it becomes bad, sudden change in smell and stuff I do not yet have any experience to explain.

I think that's true for a lot of tanks, but I've become nose-blind to my tanks

However, there is some truth in the scent of the water when there are particular types of algae. I get an absolutely nasty smell from the water if there are large amounts of cyanobacteria in it. I also get the classic fishy smell in otherwise odorless planted tanks if I get a diatom bloom.

The plants and fish will start to react to changing water parameters. But I think the biggest way to avoid the water going bad is to just stick to a practical routine.

The hardest part about keeping a planted tank is maintaining a consistent and effective routine. It's easy to slack off on water changes for a couple of weeks, but the tank will eventually pay the price after months of neglect. If a consistent routine is maintained, the tank will do well.

 

True - though I always get worried when someone says something like this because while you can safely maintain a tank if you know what warning signs to look for, I can't help but think of a beginner taking this as an excuse to not test their tank.

This is why I test my tanks a lot. As a newbie, I find monitoring the water parameters educational. And interesting. I have a 40 gallon breeder with a guppy colony of perhaps 70 fish. Call it 30 adults, 20 fry and 20 juvies. Plus maybe 30 pest snails and 30 assassin snails. I was out of town and busy and did not change the water for four weeks. The nitrates were less than 10 ppm. I do not understand this, but it is interesting and I am trying to understand it better.

 

This is why I test my tanks a lot. As a newbie, I find monitoring the water parameters educational. And interesting. I have a 40 gallon breeder with a guppy colony of perhaps 70 fish. Call it 30 adults, 20 fry and 20 juvies. Plus maybe 30 pest snails and 30 assassin snails. I was out of town and busy and did not change the water for four weeks. The nitrates were less than 10 ppm. I do not understand this, but it is interesting and I am trying to understand it better.

Was there any plants? Did you have deep substrate? Do you have media like lava rocks or pumice? The plants could've eaten up the nitrates and if you had a deep substrate or media like lava rocks and pumice there could've been aenerobic bacteria.
Although I am a beginner, I rarely test. My tanks aren't even heavily planted or anything, but I do do a lot of water changes.

 

Yes I have plants and yes I have deep substrate. I have read about anaerobic processing nitrates to nitrogen and then nitrogen exchanging into the atmosphere. That is one of the hypotheses I have, but I do not know how to confirm. I do not think I have enough plants to process all the ammonia and / or nitrate. But perhaps the combination of the two.

Anyway, I like monitoring.

 

Out of curiosity, what does testing the water help you do in the context of a planted tank? So let's say you test the water and you get the subsequent results - what next? What did the test help you realize or start doing?

Oops! I should have been more specific.

I very rarely test now, mainly test when setting up a "New" tank.

As mentioned, I test only when setting up a "New" tank and just for Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates to ensure a cycled tank for the fish.
In my mad scientist days (LOL)
I did try to test for Phosphates, Iron, etc.. but it just had my head spinning, finally gave up. Now, I just EI dose and use root tabs to fert, water changes and let the plants grow or not.
As an example, I updated my Discus Build with progression pics of plants I purchased from you. Some doing very well others not so much. No clue why, but I have a decent planted tank again. I'll take what I can get.
Jmaldo's Discus Build | Freshwater Aquarium Builds 402889

Learning all the Time.

 

Oops! I should have been more specific.


As mentioned, I test only when setting up a "New" tank and just for Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates to ensure a cycled tank for the fish.
In my mad scientist days (LOL)
I did try to test for Phosphates, Iron, etc.. but it just had my head spinning, finally gave up. Now, I just EI dose and use root tabs to fert, water changes and let the plants grow or not.
As an example, I updated my Discus Build with progression pics of plants I purchased from you. Some doing very well others not so much. No clue why, but I have a decent planted tank again. I'll take what I can get.
Jmaldo's Discus Build | Freshwater Aquarium Builds 402889

Learning all the Time.

That makes sense, it's definitely important to test to see if the cycle is done or not.

I completely resonate with the second part of your post, which actually inspired this entire thread. It is too easy to get caught up with the various tests out there and I find that it can get really difficult to have a successful aquarium if the hobbyist becomes too caught up with the parameters.

Your method now with dosing fertilizers and doing water changes on a routine like EI is exactly what I was trying to get through in this post. I should've been more concise about getting to that point.

I should've said that a planted tank isn't about trying to reach certain water parameters, but rather creating an effective routine with good plant husbandry practices and then sticking to it. I feel that in this hobby, too much emphasis is placed on obtaining water parameters rather than physically caring for the plants.

I saw your tank and it looks really beautiful. The pogostemon octopus especially is taking off. I remember in our discussions that the temperature was quite high, 82F or higher if I remember correctly. The plants you are having difficulty with generally prefer to be in the 70s, but in this tank, I believe the discus take priority. It's also a lowtech tank so it can tank a long time for plants to become established and to start growing.