White Spots On Oscar

Ryan Neidinger
  • #1
there are some white spots that I just noticed on my Oscar. I have been having algae problems for the past month and just got it under control. Now I’m noticing these white spots on his fin and body. What are they? Are they dangerous?
 

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AquaticJ
  • #2
That's Ich. Very mild now, but if left untreated it’ll get worse. Ich usually manifests itself during times of stress, when the immune system of a fish is weak. That being said, what are your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate readings? Temperature?

Ich, or Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, is a parasite that is easy to treat when mild like this, and can be difficult to save a fish when it’s advanced. My advice to you is to go straight to medicine and just stop it quickly while your fish still has a decent immune system. A lot of people try to use salt, heat, and natural remedies which often times prolong the infection to where the fish has such a depressed immune system, it simply doesn’t recover. Common and reputable meds include API Super Ick Cure, Nox-Ich, and Seachem ParaGuard.

He doesn’t look unhealthy, he’s colorful and looks well fed. I see you also have an appropriate tank size, so it looks like you’re doing a good job. Ich is something that every aquarist will experience at least once, and I’d be shocked if someone experienced in the hobby has never had it.
 
DoubleDutch
  • #3
That is definitely not Ich !

Couls it be head and lateral libe erosion ?
 
AquaticJ
  • #4
That is definitely not Ich !

Couls it be head and lateral libe erosion ?
he’s not talking about the orange spots
 
DoubleDutch
  • #5
Ahhhh appologies mate. I wondered about "white" hahaha cause I first though "those are natural to me".

Should have zoomed in on my phone !!!!
he’s not talking about the orange spots
 
Sarah73
  • #6
What are the orange spots? Yeah I see some ich. Likely just stressed.
 
DoubleDutch
  • #7
Natural pattern I'd say !
What are the orange spots? Yeah I see some ich. Likely just stressed.
 
AquaticJ
  • #8
What are the orange spots? Yeah I see some ich. Likely just stressed.
That's just his natural pattern
 
Sarah73
  • #9
Very cute! He's a cutie!
 
Ryan Neidinger
  • Thread Starter
  • #10
Thank you to everyone. I was reading and didn’t want to jump to conclusions but now I know. What would you guys recommend for a medicine? I’m going out to the fish store later today and I will test my water right now and post the readings in about 5 minuites.
 
Ryan Neidinger
  • Thread Starter
  • #11
My nitrite and nitrate is at 0 ppm. My ammonia is in between 0 and .25 ppm. My water temperature is at 75 degrees
 
Ryan Neidinger
  • Thread Starter
  • #12
Also would how does this Oscar look? I don’t know if it’s nothing, ich, fin rot, or if she is healing from ich but it seems she has dead skin looking spots (not too bad) on her one fin.
 

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Ryan Neidinger
  • Thread Starter
  • #13
Just got done treating my Oscar for ich. It’s even worse now.
IMG_0837.jpg
 
PatientStars
  • #14
A full ich treatment should last more than 3 days. What did you use to treat it?
 
Ryan Neidinger
  • Thread Starter
  • #15
A
 
Ryan Neidinger
  • Thread Starter
  • #16
A full ich treatment should last more than 3 days. What did you use to treat it?


Well he is still being treated but I used apI super ick cure. This is the only thing my pet store had in stock. Should I be concerned right now and get different medicine? Or should I keep this going and hope for the best?
 
PatientStars
  • #17
Nope, continue treatment exactly as directed for the full amount of time. Even if the white spots disappear before the treatment ends. A lot of the meds will go for a week, and then recommend a second round of needed. Ich has different stages where it is visible on the fish, free floating in the water, and then able to reattach. It can't be killed when visible, only when free floating. So the spots on him will have to run their course unfortunately.
 
Ryan Neidinger
  • Thread Starter
  • #18
Nope, continue treatment exactly as directed for the full amount of time. Even if the white spots disappear before the treatment ends. A lot of the meds will go for a week, and then recommend a second round of needed. Ich has different stages where it is visible on the fish, free floating in the water, and then able to reattach. It can't be killed when visible, only when free floating. So the spots on him will have to run their course unfortunately.

This treatment calls for 1 dose for 48 hrs and another for another 48 hours. After that a 25% water change... if there not gone by then, which tomorrow will be time for a 25% water change, should I treat again or let it go?
 
Dawn Michele
  • #19
HI Ryan. I found this information on here and thought it would be helpful for you. Years ago when I had Goldfish that had Ich this is how I treated them and it worked.
  • Ich dislikes warm water, so I immediately bring the water up to 85-88 degrees.

  • Since warm water cannot hold as much oxygen as cool water, I also increase the aeration by adding air stones. Another reason for added aeration is that ich infects the gills of fish as well as the outer skin. We only see ich on the skin of fish, and assume that's what's making them so sick. But my personal belief is that gill infestation by ich is the main cause of suffering and death in aquarium fish. I believe this damage to the delicate gill tissue suffocates fish, which either kills them outright or leads to lethal secondary infections. An increase in dissolved oxygen brought about by vigorous aeration may mean the difference in life or death to your fish.

  • Along with a temperature change and added aeration, I usually add about one teaspoon of canning and pickling salt per gallon to the water to help the fish recover from the stress caused by the disease by reducing osmotic pressure, enabling the fish's own immune system to fight back. Salt is also harmful to ich. See .

  • Water changes are extremely important in fighting ich outbreaks. Using a gravel washer, I do a 50 percent water change on a daily basis. This eliminates a great number of trophozoites and tomites from the aquarium.
 
Ryan Neidinger
  • Thread Starter
  • #20
A full ich treatment should last more than 3 days. What did you use to treat it?


Thank you so much. Temperature is rising and I’m going to get tubing for my air stones. I have 2 HOB filters rated for 75 gal tanks right now. Would an air stone work for more aeration or would I be better off getting a canister filter with the 2 hob filters for better aeration?
 
PatientStars
  • #21
Thank you so much. Temperature is rising and I’m going to get tubing for my air stones. I have 2 HOB filters rated for 75 gal tanks right now. Would an air stone work for more aeration or would I be better off getting a canister filter with the 2 hob filters for better aeration?

An air stone would work for aeration. However, if you are medicating, don't do the heat and salt method at the same time. The combination can be too stressful. Either do heat and salt OR medication. Water changes and gravel vacs are important for either method.
 
fish 321
  • #22
My fish recently developed Ich and I used API super ick cure and it worked pretty good but only could use half dose because of my scaleless fish. I separated my molly and gave it a full dose because he had it pretty bad and healed in about 4 days. After two weeks my whole tank is cured except my catfish only has one spot left on it so I am still treating and once the fish have no more ich on them but am still going to treat a little while after in case there is still ich in the tank or some not visible to the eye on the fish.
 

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