White Sediment in tank after cycle

undetermined

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There is a white sediment floating around in my tank. I am lost as to what it is, and my fish are acting fine. Looks like salt floating around, but I have no salt in it.

100+ gallon tank, did a 25% cycle and cleaned half the gravel. There is an underground filter installed with activated charcoal on the top of the towers along with a filter/biowheel device. I changed the filters and the biowheels are still there for the bacteria and such. Any ideas on the White Sediment?

PH is 6.8-7.0, 0 Nitrite, .25 Ammonia and I dont have a Nitrate test yet.

As I said, the fish are fine, it more or less bothers me that the water is not as clean as it should be.
 

cm11599ps

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Your tank isn't cycled yet. You should have ZERO for ammonia and nirite. The cloudiness is most likely caused because you don't have enough beneficial bacteria built up.

Doing water change will not fix this problem. Just let the tank sit and once the bacteria build up the coudiness should disappear.
 
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undetermined

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OK, I will let it sit. I did the change yesterday. It is not really cloudy, just little white things floating in the tank. Only visible when within a foot or so of the tank. I did just do a quick test, and the Nitrate was about 20ppm according to the test strip. I will be doing a full test on the drops shortly. However, my drop kit does not test nitrate, just nitrite.
 

Prince Powder

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The white stuff may actually be dust from your substrate or rocks. Sometimes the gravel isn't cleaned as well as we think it is and the dust will float around. Using too much of a certain product like Stress Coat can also leave a film on the surface. Make sure you have enough surface agitation to keep stuff from settling there. I'm not sure if water changes will help with the sediment, but it will help your fish while you are cycling. When cycling with fish you want to do daily partial water changes with a good conditioner like Prime or Amquel Plus until you've finished the cycle and your ammonia and nitrite levels hit zero and stay there. You might also want to look into getting a more reliable testing kit like the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. It comes with liquid tests for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH (regular and high range). Test strips are generally not very accurate so your levels can actually be very different from what they tell you they are. Liquid tests are far more reliable. Strips are also more expensive in the long run than the liquid tests. The API kit runs about 30 dollars, but it will give you so many tests that it turns out to be way cheaper than the strips. I'm personally not a fan of UG filters because they allow for alot of buildup of waste underneath the panels. I would personally ditch the UG filter and add a second HOB filter or a canister filter since it's such a large tank.
 

LyndaB

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I'm not familiar with undergravel filters, but you indicated that you've already changed the filter? Was there a specific reason?
 
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undetermined

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My tank looked as if it was not cleaning thoroughly, so I checked them and they were pretty bad. I am now realizing it might have been a bad idea. I knew now to change the Biowheel, but I thought the filters needed to be changed periodically.

Oh, and to be clear I changed the filter/charcoal in the . I left the Biowheels alone.
 

Prince Powder

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The charcoal does need to be changed every 3-4 weeks, you are correct on that. The Bio Wheels are designed to allow for the cartridge to be changed periodically with minimal affect on your cycle as the beneficial bacteria which have colonized on the wheel are still left in place. I've never used the Bio Wheel filters so I can't say exactly how much impact changing the cartridge has on your cycle, but if your tank was cycled previously and is only now showing ammonia after changing the cartridge I think it's safe to assume that removing it may have been what caused a mini cycle. If it wasn't completely cycled to begin with then it's never a good idea to mess with the filter media during a cycle. To change carbon, the best thing is to simply cut it out of the cartridge and either refill it with loose carbon or use a separate media bag filled with loose carbon which you can place in the filter with the cartridge. That way you don't have to remove the cartridge padding which your beneficial bacteria will also colonize on. The padding itself can actually be left in place until it is literally falling apart. If you plan on keeping the UG filter than you can skip carbon all together in the HOB filter and just regularly change the carbon cartridges on the UG filter. If you decide to remove the UG filter then I would recommend either an Aqua Clear filter or a canister, both of which allow for separate, customized, media so the carbon will always be separate and easier to change when needed without disturbing the rest of the media.
 
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undetermined

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I am wondering if my underground is not being used properly. I dont have a Powerhead installed. I am going to get 1 today. I think I need 2 since I have a 100 gallon tank and it has 4 towers from the UG.
 

Aquarist

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Ok thanks.

I have well water and sometimes when the aquafer (sp?) is disturbed or someone puts in a new well it causes a sediment to rise and shows up in my prefiltering tank.
Thanks. Hold on for more responses.
Ken
 
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undetermined

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I bought a powerhead and installed it. It is helping slowly, but a few hours after I installed it I went to feed my fish and 1 Molly was dead. Everybody else is running ragged and eats well. I always try to find them all and she was at the bottom mouth wide open. I am pretty sure she was pregnant, but not popping. She lasted about 6 days in my tank, the rest still look good and all my levels check out good. Still dont have a Nitrate test, but the Nitrite, Ammonia and PH are all in good range. 0,0,7.0

ADDITONAL:

So, I spoke with another fish owner and long time fish advisor. She informed me that I had Angelhair based on a picture I took her, so I am using a cleaner. She also informed me that the white sediment is the process of building bacteria and will clean up when complete. So, in the midst of installing my tank and changing filters 3 weeks later, my tank has a little ways to go. I think the power head might have pulled the angel hair from under the UGF because the Aerators were not pulling enough.
 

flyin-lowe

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Something else to think about and read up on is the fact you are using 100% RO water. I have been doing a lot of research as I just got an RO unit myself. The RO water is stripped of all minerals (good and bad) and 100% RO by itself is not good to use. They make some chemicals you can add or some people do a mix of like 75%Ro and 25% tap water. From what I have been reading it is best to get a TDS meter and a GH/KH test kit. 100% RO water has no buffering ability and you can get huge pH swings and other issues.

I still don't understand all of it but it is worth reading up on. My tank running well water and I have started the switch to RO water. I am adding 100% right now but soon I plan on adding about 1 gallon of well water to 5 gallons of RO and testing the TDS and hardness to see where that puts me, then I will adjust from there.
 
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