What's Wrong With My Plants

Discussion in 'Aquarium Plants' started by TehBalal, Jul 15, 2017.

  1. TehBalalNew MemberMember

    IMG_0469.PNGIMG_0470.PNG I have 50 gal tank with some plants in it and on of them are brown idk why I dose some liquid fertiliser like flourish once a week and iron and potassium every other day

    i have wisteria in as well and they're doing great
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 15, 2017
  2. kayla.s

    kayla.sWell Known MemberMember

    What plant is it?
  3. Dcchillin

    DcchillinValued MemberMember

    If they are planted in the substrate I would definitely recommend adding seachem root tabs under them.

    Aside from that, what are your temp, pH,kh,gh, nitrAte, and phosphate levels? What light are you using? What is your daily light cycle? What substrate are you using? How long have the plants been in the tank? Really all of this info is needed to help diagnose.

    It doesn't really seems like a clear cut nutrient deficiency, as that makes the leaves lighter, twisted or stunted. To get a better idea you can type "aquarium plant deficiencies" into Google images.

    Also I don't see seachem Excel or API liquid co2, these are a helpful substitute for co2 injection, and may brighten up the plants.

    Get back to leave with the requested information, or at least as much of it as you are capable of monitoring and we can go from there. :)
  4. OP

    TehBalalNew MemberMember

    idk what plant it is I forgot the name
    its a stem plant
    ph 7.2
    kh dk
    gh dk
    T5 hangon light with a pink bulb and 2 10000k white 12 hours a day
    1 month ago got the plants
  5. Dcchillin

    DcchillinValued MemberMember

    1 month is still within the adjustment period, you might want to hang in there for another 4-8 weeks before you start worrying. Also 12 hours is the very maximum you want to keep lights on, i would recommend trying to knock it down to an 8 hours light cycle. The light itself should be plenty, how much wattage are they? Watts isnt necessarily the deciding factor for lights, you really want to know the PAR rating at the substrate, but wattage will give you a general idea.

    As far as the plant type, I am thinking maybe Moneywort? Regardless, knowing what it is would really help identify how it most effectively receives nutrients, either root feeder or column feeder, as well as the lighting requirements. Either way it should process nutrients both ways, but most plants are more proficient one way or another. Since it is planted in the substrate, and since you have other plants i would really encourage seachem root tabs(~$8 10 count, ~$18 40 count), they are a wonderful product. Also, since you have a fully planted tank, get yourself some Seachem Excel (~$10) as well and dose it daily.

    Knowing KH/GH would certainly help to make sure your plants are getting enough minerals, as well as making sure you wont experience any PH swings due to a low KH. You can pick up a KH/GH test kit at most store for around $12. As far as the plants though, adding roots tabs should supplement the needed trace minerals.

    As for the rest, plants do need phosphate as well, and a decent nitrate level (anywhere from 5-20ppm). without these you will start to notice deficiencies (leaves stunted, twisted, discolored).

    The ferts you got are a good start. Flourish is good all around, with pretty much everything a plant should need, Potassium is one of the three MACRO nutrients, and iron is really beneficial to plants that are red (ludwigia peruensis comes to mind as i have it in my tank).

    Take some time to familiarize yourself with the basics and theories behind aquatic plant fertilization. Seachem's line of products are a good start, no premixing and relatively easy dosing. They do get expensive after a while. Their whole line up is:

    Your General Fertilizers
    Flourish- all around fert
    Flouris Trace- heavy trace minerals
    Flourish Advance- growth hormone
    Flourish Excel- liquid "CO2"
    Flourish Iron-Iron supplement (not really a general fert, but it is not a Macro either, technically a Trace mineral)
    Root Tabs- A little bit of trace and other things to enhance the substrate for plant growth.
    Your Macro nutrients (NPK)

    I recommend at least reading and understanding these ideas with the seachem line, if you have the funds purchase a set of each and get used to fertilizing your plants. Seachem has a dosing plan available online as well. After this you want to take a look at dry ferts. NilocG is a popular brand, offering all of these ferts in a cheaper dry form that you mix with water yourself and dose according to a plan. Nilocg also offers an all in one fert called thrive, which basically is a solution to the entire seachem line (aside from CO2 supplementation).

    You can go as far down the rabbit hole as you want with aquatic plants. There are different light schedules (i do 4on/2off/4on), different fert schedules and methods. It really comes down to trial, error, consistency, and patience. I can not stress this enough! There is no quick fix to aquatic plants, there is nothing you can do today to make your plants green tomorrow. You have to find the thing that makes the most sense, try it for a week or two minimum and see if the plants have improved or regressed. Its stressful sometimes, but it will clear up eventually i promise.

    In short, for you and your situation, i would try to find out what the plant is (maybe someone will see the thread and be able to id it), Buy seachem excel and root tabs, Purchase a kh/gh test kit (because they are handy to have), Reduce lighting to 8 hours, check your nitrate levels, and do this for a couple weeks and see what changes occur.

    Hope any of this helped, best of luck!
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2017
  6. Jocelyn AdelmanFishlore VIPMember

    Looks like bacopa caroliana, mine also is reddish when happy. Looks to me as the plants were grown emersed, or in less then optimal conditions, and the new reddish growth is what has happened in your tank.

    I second 12 hrs being a bit too long, just asking for algae issues. If it's working then stick with it, but 8 hrs would be better.

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