What Would You Do Part 2 - Page 2

TexasDomer

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Java fern shouldn't have the rhizome buried or it'll die; it's easiest to attach it to rocks or driftwood. You may have trouble with its current placement.

I'd go with a smaller sword than the Amazon - it'll get large enough to fill your whole tank.

Harlequins shouldn't eat adult RCS.

The kuhlis shouldn't make a mess of things, they're not crazy buriers, but you can still pass on them of course.

If it were me, I'd do a few endlers and a schooling fish smaller than the harlequins, like ember tetra or chilI rasbora.
 
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Bruxes and Bubbles

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TexasDomer said:
Java fern shouldn't have the rhizome buried or it'll die; it's easiest to attach it to rocks or driftwood. You may have trouble with its current placement.

I'd go with a smaller sword than the Amazon - it'll get large enough to fill your whole tank.

Harlequins shouldn't eat adult RCS.

The kuhlis shouldn't make a mess of things, they're not crazy buriers, but you can still pass on them of course.

If it were me, I'd do a few endlers and a schooling fish smaller than the harlequins, like ember tetra or chilI rasbora.
Okay, I'll search for some smaller sword options! Thanks for the warning! I can attach the java fern to a piece of driftwood no problem.

ChilI rasboras are available to me I believe - I'll check aquabid to see the micro-rasboras are on there. How about a trio of endlers, (8?) micro-rasboras, and a bunch of cherry shrimp?

Right now my poor 20 high is bare bottom with some guppy fry - nothing is set in stone yet! XD
 

TexasDomer

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I would do 10-15x micro rasboras! A larger school will be more brave and less skittish.
 
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Bruxes and Bubbles

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TexasDomer said:
I would do 10-15x micro rasboras! A larger school will be more brave and less skittish.
Okay! All of these rasboras were in my price range on aquabid (that were tank raised) and look pretty cool. Will any of these do? I'm not 100% sure if these are micro-rasboras or not.

Emerald Dwarf Rasbora
Microdevario kubotaI “Green Rasbora”
Sawbwa Resplendens

The latter two were my favorites.
 

TexasDomer

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The Sawbwa and emerald dwarf rasbora aren't temp compatible with endlers But the green rasbora would work!
 
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TexasDomer said:
The Sawbwa and emerald dwarf rasbora aren't temp compatible with endlers But the green rasbora would work!
Okay! I'll do them if they're still around when I set up the tank. Hopefully aquabid will still have them when I have everything set up and cycled! Thanks a lot!

Just to make sure, the stocking plan will be:

3 x endlers
10-15 x Microdevario kubotaI “Green Rasbora”
Cherry shrimp
1 x netrite snail

Correct? Thanks again!
 

nedpatrick

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Bruxes and Bubbles said:
Okay! I'll do them if they're still around when I set up the tank. Hopefully aquabid will still have them when I have everything set up and cycled! Thanks a lot!

Just to make sure, the stocking plan will be:

3 x endlers
10-15 x Microdevario kubotaI “Green Rasbora”
Cherry shrimp
1 x netrite snail

Correct? Thanks again!
I'm pretty sure the microdevario kubotaI needs a bigger tank. I believe it was Coradee who kept them and said that they are incredibly active for their size and need at least a 3 ft long tank and that even that felt too small.
 
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Bruxes and Bubbles

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nedpatrick said:
I'm pretty sure the microdevario kubotaI needs a bigger tank. I believe it was Coradee who kept them and said that they are incredibly active for their size and need at least a 3 ft long tank and that even that felt too small.
Seriously? I found endlers that would match perfectly with them and everything...really hope that they can live in my tank...
I will do more research on the species from different sources. Seriously Fish suggests a tank size of "60 ∗ 30 cm" for this species.

I would like to get everyone's thought on this, I don't want to put incompatible fish in the 20 high and have to rehome them.

I believe this is the post you spoke of?
Neon Green Tetra school size

(All of the stocking experts I remember I'll link to to see if we can get some opinions - it's okay if anyone doesn't know!) TexasDomer Anders247 aquatickeeper Al913 Coradee and anyone else - you guys' thoughts?
 

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They should be fine in a 24" tank though - there's a big difference between a 5 gal and a 20 gal high, and Coradee wasn't saying that they had to be kept in a 3 ft tank (at least not in that post).
 

nedpatrick

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Bruxes and Bubbles said:
Seriously? I found endlers that would match perfectly with them and everything...really hope that they can live in my tank...
I will do more research on the species from different sources. Seriously Fish suggests a tank size of "60 ∗ 30 cm" for this species.

I would like to get everyone's thought on this, I don't want to put incompatible fish in the 20 high and have to rehome them.

I believe this is the post you spoke of?
Neon Green Tetra school size

(All of the stocking experts I remember I'll link to to see if we can get some opinions - it's okay if anyone doesn't know!) TexasDomer Anders247 aquatickeeper Al913 Coradee and anyone else - you guys' thoughts?
TexasDomer said:
They should be fine in a 24" tank though - there's a big difference between a 5 gal and a 20 gal high, and Coradee wasn't saying that they had to be kept in a 3 ft tank (at least not in that post).
I'm referring to this post(page 3) where she says that they make even a 3 foot tank look too small for them but I may have misinterpreted that.

Help - Making Stocking List For 5 Gallon Aquarium
 

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TexasDomer said:
They should be fine in a 24" tank though - there's a big difference between a 5 gal and a 20 gal high, and Coradee wasn't saying that they had to be kept in a 3 ft tank (at least not in that post).
Agreed.
 
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Okay. Phew. I'll see what Coradee says and assuming she thinks it's okay I'll stick with Microdevario kubotai. I really like the green sheen of the little guys coupled with the bright orange of the endlers I'm looking at.
 

Coradee

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Hi, yes the microdevario kubotaI are very active for their size & I'd suggest a minimum 2ft tank for them, my 3ft comment was just saying that bigger would be better if it's possible.
I also notice C.hastatus mentioned above, they aren't a bottom dwelling cory, they spend the majority of their time in the middle levels only going to the bottom to rest or feed, if you want a small bottom dwelling cory then as was said C. habrosus would be an option
 
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Coradee said:
Hi, yes the microdevario kubotaI are very active for their size & I'd suggest a minimum 2ft tank for them, my 3ft comment was just saying that bigger would be better if it's possible.
I also notice C.hastatus mentioned above, they aren't a bottom dwelling cory, they spend the majority of their time in the middle levels only going to the bottom to rest or feed, if you want a small bottom dwelling cory then as was said C. habrosus would be an option

Thank you for the reply! I am sticking to cherry shrimp as the bottom feeders - low bio-load, hardy, and fun to watch.
Since you own them, a quick question about the Microdevario kubotaI if you don't mind? My PH is 8.2-8.4; will tank raised specimens be able to acclimate to this PH if done very slowly?

Thanks!
 

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I would imagine that if you get locally raised Fish they would be ok at that Ph & if they are raised in similiar Ph to yours they wouldn't need an extended acclimatisation period.
 
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Coradee said:
I would imagine that if you get locally raised Fish they would be ok at that Ph & if they are raised in similiar Ph to yours they wouldn't need an extended acclimatisation period.
Thank you.
 
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I have a few questions pertaining to the aquascape itself since this will be my first real planted tank. I plan to do my tank in this order:

Substrates/rocks
Driftwoods
Plant Light
Filter/Heater
Cycling
Plants
Livestock

Substrate question:

What is the best dirt looking substrate that does not need a gravel or sand cap, and is inert?

Does Eco-Complete look like dirt?

Plant light:

For these plants:

Frogbit, Anubias barteri, bacopa, java fern, java moss, Cryptocoryne wendtii, Echinodorus 'Oriental'

What sort of lighting should I get (preferably under $50, if possible, but I can save up for longer if need be)? Will I need Co2? Or just root tabs or a liquid supplement?
If there are any that are very hard to care for, please feel free to suggest alternatives. I'm open to any 'jungle' looking plants.


Filter questions:

I am debating going with an Aqueon Quietflow 30 (I have had great success with this type of filter), or trying a canister filter for the first time. Thoughts?


I do have to go to bed now, so likely will not see answers until the morning!

I appreciate all of the help, you guys! My tanks would be a mess without all of you.
 

TexasDomer

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Coradee said:
I also notice C.hastatus mentioned above, they aren't a bottom dwelling cory, they spend the majority of their time in the middle levels only going to the bottom to rest or feed, if you want a small bottom dwelling cory then as was said C. habrosus would be an option
So both C. hastatus and C. pygmaeus inhabit the middle levels? I thought it was only C. pygmaeus. Good to know!

Bruxes and Bubbles said:
I have a few questions pertaining to the aquascape itself since this will be my first real planted tank. I plan to do my tank in this order:

Substrates/rocks
Driftwoods
Plant Light
Filter/Heater
Cycling
Plants
Livestock

You can put the plants in before you cycle, if you want.

Substrate question:

What is the best dirt looking substrate that does not need a gravel or sand cap, and is inert?

What about just sand by itself? Super cheap, and it's super easy and cheap to use root tabs below the root feeding plants.

Does Eco-Complete look like dirt?

Like large grain dirt.

Plant light:

For these plants:

Frogbit, Anubias barteri, bacopa, java fern, java moss, Cryptocoryne wendtii, Echinodorus 'Oriental'

The Echinodorus 'Oriental' is the only one that would need medium light to do well. You'll need to pay special attention to your lighting and ferts situation so you're not overrun with algae (which is a bigger problem in medium light than lower light tanks). Alternatively, you can swap this out for another plant that's a little less demanding if you wanted a low light tank.

What sort of lighting should I get (preferably under $50, if possible, but I can save up for longer if need be)? Will I need Co2? Or just root tabs or a liquid supplement?
If there are any that are very hard to care for, please feel free to suggest alternatives. I'm open to any 'jungle' looking plants.

You don't need CO2, and most of the time, you really don't need a liquid CO2 supplement either.

For lighting, if changed that sword for something else (like a different crypt or a different color variety of C. wendtii), you could go with a Finnex Stingray for low light.

Or you could go the DIY route and use lights from a hardware store. Easy, cheap, and efficient.

Filter questions:

I am debating going with an Aqueon Quietflow 30 (I have had great success with this type of filter), or trying a canister filter for the first time. Thoughts?

I love my canisters, but it's definitely feasible/fine to do an HOB on this size tank if you want. I'm not a fan of the Aqueon Quietflows, but that's because I had a bad experience with one. If you like them, go for it! Sounds like a good plan.

I do have to go to bed now, so likely will not see answers until the morning!

I appreciate all of the help, you guys! My tanks would be a mess without all of you.
See responses in green above
 
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TexasDomer said:
So both C. hastatus and C. pygmaeus inhabit the middle levels? I thought it was only C. pygmaeus. Good to know!



See responses in green above
Will ammonia dosing to cycle harm the plants at all? I'm a newbie to indoor planted tanks, so I just wanted to check.

Thank you! The reason I wanted kind of a 'dirt' feel is that I'm trying to replicate a jungle-like setting. I will see if there is a darker sand out there that looks like dirt.

Okay, I'll see if there are some better low-light plants to switch the sword out with. How about Crypt spiralis, Tropica Sword, African Water Fern, or Downoi?

I'm going to do more research on the canister filters so I can see if it's the right choice for me. I do like how they're not as noticeable.
 

TexasDomer

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The amount of ammonia you're using shouldn't hurt the plants. In fact, they take up some ammonia.

Black diamond blasting sand is a good substrate. I also use Turface Pro for my tanks, and that's a great substrate. Looks like dirt!

All of those should be in medium light except the sword, which is fine in low light, so that would work!
 

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