What size of tank and filter for quarantine?

I first noticed a couple days ago when my fish started pooping white stringy bits. So I started looking into it, learned that my fish probably had internal parasites, looked into medications. After the treatment is all over with, I need to set up a quarantine tank to avoid this from happening again.

So my questions are:

1)I have a 5 gallon tank with a single betta in it. I'm getting a larger 10-20 gallon divided betta tank and I could use the 5 gallon as the quarantine after its cleared out. Would this be adequate? The largest fish that would ever be quarantine there would be a molly.

2)Are 5 gallons even capable of being cycled because of their small size?

3) How many fish could I house in qt at once?

4) Using a carbon filter in the qt would be counter productive, so would using a hob aquaclear 20 with only biomax and the sponge work out?

5) Would I have to replace the filter media every time I needed to quarantine new/sick fish?

6) How long does the filter media need to cycle?

7) I was reading about filter floss, is that recommended for qt tanks?

8) Would the filter floss be used in conjunction with the aquaclear biomax and sponge, or would it replace something entirely?

9)Are there better/more efficient/ cheaper filter recommendations for qt other than just a hob aquaclear?

Thank you in advance for any advice you can give me! I appreciate all knowledge and tips, even if you can only answer 1 or a couple of my questions. Please help if you can

 

I am answering 1 and 2. Okay!

1. Yes it would be adequate.

2. They are capable for cycling.

 

I am answering 1 and 2. Okay!

1. Yes it would be adequate.

2. They are capable for cycling.

Oh okay, perfect! Thanks

 

3
Will depend on size and type of fish. Really little schooling fish half inch or so? 6 to 12 I would think. A molly probably just one?

 

3
Will depend on size and type of fish. Really little schooling fish half inch or so? 6 to 12 I would think. A molly probably just one?

Sweet, okay. Do the same rules apply for adding adding fish i.e. 1-3 a week?

 

Sweet, okay. Do the same rules apply for adding adding fish i.e. 1-3 a week?

That would depend on how you plan on keeping it cycled. Are you going to run the filter on your main tank when the qt is not in use? Or were you planning on adding media from your main tank to the qt filter?

4) yes

5) depends on what they were quarantined for, the life cycle of whatever parasite introduced to the qt, and the time you need it available again.

6) as long as it takes depending on method. Running the filter on your main tank when not using the qt will keep it cycled.

 

That would depend on how you plan on keeping it cycled. Are you going to run the filter on your main tank when the qt is not in use? Or were you planning on adding media from your main tank to the qt filter?

4) yes

5) depends on what they were quarantined for, the life cycle of whatever parasite introduced to the qt, and the time you need it available again.

6) as long as it takes depending on method. Running the filter on your main tank when not using the qt will keep it cycled.

I think I'm going to be running constantly refilled filter media in my main tank so I always have an emergency supply for when I need to run the qt tank. Would it be more efficient to just run the entire qt filter in the main tank?

Is planting cycled filter media in the qt filter enough to instantly cycle the qt tank?

And also if I did just put the qt filter in the main tank between qt uses, would I need to bleach the filter to avoid putting disease in the main tank?

 

I think I'm going to be running constantly refilled filter media in my main tank so I always have an emergency supply for when I need to run the qt tank. Would it be more efficient to just run the entire qt filter in the main tank?

Is planting cycled filter media in the qt filter enough to instantly cycle the qt tank?

And also if I did just put the qt filter in the main tank between qt uses, would I need to bleach the filter to avoid putting disease in the main tank?

Seeding it with media is enough for an instant cycle DEPENDING on fish load and media amount.

The answers to your other questions vary depending one what was treated in the qt.

For example: Ich. The filter would be safe to use on the main tank when the fish were able to be transferred.

Example: Iridovirus.
Many will say nothing about the qt tank would be suitable for a DG again.

 

1)I have a 5 gallon tank with a single betta in it. I'm getting a larger 10-20 gallon divided betta tank and I could use the 5 gallon as the quarantine after its cleared out. Would this be adequate? The largest fish that would ever be quarantine there would be a molly.

10 gallons are easier to dose in my opinion.

2)Are 5 gallons even capable of being cycled because of their small size?

I don't worry about cycling my QT tanks, some medications could kill beneficial bacteria anyways.

3) How many fish could I house in qt at once?

I currently have 40 1-2" bushynose plecos in a 10 gallon QT tank, I have to do water changes on it every other day but that's another thread topic.

4) Using a carbon filter in the qt would be counter productive, so would using a hob aquaclear 20 with only biomax and the sponge work out?

Never have used aquaclear filters, the one I got for free with a tank offa craigslist looked and felt wicked cheap and I threw it away. A lot of people swear by them though. Yes, carbon would/could remove anything you add to the tank as treatment.

5) Would I have to replace the filter media every time I needed to quarantine new/sick fish?

Again, I don't. If I am really nervous about spreading anything, I will rinse everything with tap water (chlorine) to hopefully kill anything, then let everything dry out real good before next use. It might not actually do anything at all, but it keeps my mind at peace. This works for me only because I have 6 QT/holding tanks.

7) I was reading about filter floss, is that recommended for qt tanks?

I only have sponge filters in my tanks.

9)Are there better/more efficient/ cheaper filter recommendations for qt other than just a hob aquaclear?

I think sponge filters are a cheap alternative, plus, some medicines say on the bottle to turn up aeration. If you have a air powered sponge filter, you are already killing 2 birds with 1 stone.

 

10 gallons are easier to dose in my opinion.



I don't worry about cycling my QT tanks, some medications could kill beneficial bacteria anyways.



I currently have 40 1-2" bushynose plecos in a 10 gallon QT tank, I have to do water changes on it every other day but that's another thread topic.


Never have used aquaclear filters, the one I got for free with a tank offa craigslist looked and felt wicked cheap and I threw it away. A lot of people swear by them though. Yes, carbon would/could remove anything you add to the tank as treatment.


Again, I don't. If I am really nervous about spreading anything, I will rinse everything with tap water (chlorine) to hopefully kill anything, then let everything dry out real good before next use. It might not actually do anything at all, but it keeps my mind at peace. This works for me only because I have 6 QT/holding tanks.



I only have sponge filters in my tanks.



I think sponge filters are a cheap alternative, plus, some medicines say on the bottle to turn up aeration. If you have a air powered sponge filter, you are already killing 2 birds with 1 stone.

After some further research, you basically have me sold on sponge filters for my qt and having it in addition to my aquaclears in my main tanks. You're right, much less expensive.
And in your experience why exactly do you find 10 gallons easier to dose?

Seeding it with media is enough for an instant cycle DEPENDING on fish load and media amount.

The answers to your other questions vary depending one what was treated in the qt.

For example: Ich. The filter would be safe to use on the main tank when the fish were able to be transferred.

Example: Iridovirus.
Many will say nothing about the qt tank would be suitable for a DG again.

That makes sense. In scenarios like you've mentioned where there is a viral infection present in the qt tank, is it necessary to clean/bleach the entire tank before adding more fish? Or would medications get rid of that as well?

 

A lot of water treatments come with directions for a 10 gallon so no math or less math?

 

I would like to say that you also have to buy air pumps for sponge filters. Which is about $15+ on top of the cost of the sponge.

 

A lot of water treatments come with directions for a 10 gallon so no math or less math?

What he said.

 

In scenarios like you've mentioned where there is a viral infection present in the qt tank, is it necessary to clean/bleach the entire tank before adding more fish? Or would medications get rid of that as well?

The only medications that treat viruses are antivirals. In the example I gave of iridovirus, no antivirals exist. I wouldn't use anything that came in contact with that virus on anything that will ever have contact with a dg. Regardless of sanitizing it. Others will after bleaching what can be bleached and tossing the rest.

 

After some further research, you basically have me sold on sponge filters for my qt and having it in addition to my aquaclears in my main tanks. You're right, much less expensive.
And in your experience why exactly do you find 10 gallons easier to dose?

And, I could be wrong, and thinking of the 2.5s, but I thought the standard 5 gallon tank was really 5.5 gallons but everyone just calls em 5s. Plus around here, a 5 gallon is more money then a 10 when the $10 per gallon sales on. Think last time I bought a 5 gallon for a snail tank it was 20 some odd bucks, and that was the cheapest I could find.

So that 5ml per 10 gallons, even in a 5 gallon tank, is 2.5ml. Good luck with measuring that... I can't even get 5ml measured out on a good day.

 

And, I could be wrong, and thinking of the 2.5s, but I thought the standard 5 gallon tank was really 5.5 gallons but everyone just calls em 5s. Plus around here, a 5 gallon is more money then a 10 when the $10 per gallon sales on. Think last time I bought a 5 gallon for a snail tank it was 20 some odd bucks, and that was the cheapest I could find.

A 20 long is only 18.7 before decor and substrate. Most of them aren't the size listed. I do agree with you on the cost, and dosing when using premeasured packets for 10 gallons.

 

A 20 long is only 18.7 before decor and substrate. Most of them aren't the size listed. I do agree with you on the cost, and dosing when using premeasured packets for 10 gallons.

I forgot about powder meds. Those would be even trickier to split to a 5... Never mind that it would look bad having a digital scale with white powder all over it in your fish room.

 

I would like to say that you also have to buy air pumps for sponge filters. Which is about $15+ on top of the cost of the sponge.

But still, that's less than I was expecting to pay and there are always DIY options. Plus sponges are much less expensive to replace than other bio media

 

Here's what I've been working with so far, might give you some ideas.
Tank size: 2.5gallons
Filter: 10 gallon hob with pre-filter sponge or just a sponge filter if it's something like shrimps.
-I don't cycle this tanks filter beforehand (too lazy haha). I dose a few drops of prime and half a cap to a full cap of stability daily for about 10 days. I change the amount of stability depending on the number of fish.

 

A lot of water treatments come with directions for a 10 gallon so no math or less math?

Makes sense. I don't mind getting measuring devices though so I think I'll just deal with it for as long as I can until I can afford another 10 gallon

The only medications that treat viruses are antivirals. In the example I gave of iridovirus, no antivirals exist. I wouldn't use anything that came in contact with that virus on anything that will ever have contact with a dg. Regardless of sanitizing it. Others will after bleaching what can be bleached and tossing the rest.

Throwing it all out sounds more logical to me. Better safe than sorry I suppose

And, I could be wrong, and thinking of the 2.5s, but I thought the standard 5 gallon tank was really 5.5 gallons but everyone just calls em 5s. Plus around here, a 5 gallon is more money then a 10 when the $10 per gallon sales on. Think last time I bought a 5 gallon for a snail tank it was 20 some odd bucks, and that was the cheapest I could find.

So that 5ml per 10 gallons, even in a 5 gallon tank, is 2.5ml. Good luck with measuring that... I can't even get 5ml measured out on a good day.

Wow! I actually didn't know that, I wish I had. At least I'm aware of that now for dosing reasons. Thanks!

I forgot about powder meds. Those would be even trickier to split to a 5... Never mind that it would look bad having a digital scale with white powder all over it in your fish room.

True true, maybe needle-less measuring syringes could help get around that issue?

 

True true, maybe needle-less measuring syringes could help get around that issue?

I use them in my fish room. The 6ml ones with the 2" pinkish dosing/transfer tips. I use em for everything, dosing, feeding, all sorts of stuff.

 

If you don't mind, I'd like to ask one question to. What should I dose whenever a fish is in a qt tank?

 

I don't add anything to a QT tank until something shows up. I QT new fish for 30 days, even if they are not going into a community tank. A QT tank for me is for holding the fish and wait to see if anything appears from shipping or crummy water they where in. Perfect example: just bought swordtails from Petco, looked fine in the tank there, brought them home and threw them in a QT tank... 2 days later ich appeared, I can easily treat a 10 gallon QT tank rather then the 55 they are going into. Even though there would be any other fish in the 55, it's easier and less expensive to treat a 10.

Plus, good healthy fish shouldn't have any problems.

 

Makes sense. One more, since I assume this might also benefit the OP. Are there any meds that are good to have on hand?

 

Makes sense. One more, since I assume this might also benefit the OP. Are there any meds that are good to have on hand?

I like to keep a ich treatment on hand, and non of that natural ... Cold hard chemicals are the only way to go in my opinion. And aquarium salt, it will hopefully help keep a fish over night if stores aren't open in severe cases, and will cure some minor stuff, plus live bearers appreciate it.

 

I've heard people recommending PrazI Pro. I have not used it myself though.