What Should I Get For A Saltwater Tank?

Hello,
I am considering asking for a saltwater tank for Christmas, and I would appreciate some help deciding the equipment. I plan to stock it with fish, live rock, and inverters.
I have decided on the Fluval EVO 13.5.
Now I have to choose what equipment I should get.
I would really like recommendations on substrate, protein skimmer, water pump thingy, and heater.
I have had a 20 gallon freshwater tank for almost a year, and was wondering how to use its' bacteria to help cycle the tank.
Thank you all so much, I really love the supportive community.

 

I don't know a whole lot about saltwater but the bacteria is different as well as what cycles the tank. In freshwater our filters hold our cycle were in saltwater the cycle is in your live rock.

 

You can't use the bacteria from your freshwater tank to help cycle your saltwater tank - the bacteria in freshwater are sensitive to salt, and wouldn't survive full-marine conditions.

For substrate, you can't go wrong with aragonite sand. That's what the majority of people use, as it buffers your PH and looks pretty nice too. I'd recommend either going with aragonite or going barebottom. Barebottom will be easier to take care of, by far.

You don't need a protein skimmer in a nano tank. In fact, they're usually more trouble than they're worth in smaller tanks. I'd skip it.

"water pump thingy"... I think you mean a powerhead The tank comes with a pump to circulate water (I think), but you'll want more water circulation than that. I'd recommend to look into either a Koralia 240 or a Koralia 425, as both are good budget options.

For heating, look into one of the adjustable Aqueon heaters. 50W should be enough for that tank.

Do you know what you're looking at for stocking? I'd recommend that you be careful, since this is your first saltwater tank. Saltwater nanos aren't as hard as people like to make them out to be, but stocking lightly is always a good idea.

 

C

You can't use the bacteria from your freshwater tank to help cycle your saltwater tank - the bacteria in freshwater are sensitive to salt, and wouldn't survive full-marine conditions.

For substrate, you can't go wrong with aragonite sand. That's what the majority of people use, as it buffers your PH and looks pretty nice too. I'd recommend either going with aragonite or going barebottom. Barebottom will be easier to take care of, by far.

You don't need a protein skimmer in a nano tank. In fact, they're usually more trouble than they're worth in smaller tanks. I'd skip it.

"water pump thingy"... I think you mean a powerhead The tank comes with a pump to circulate water (I think), but you'll want more water circulation than that. I'd recommend to look into either a Koralia 240 or a Koralia 425, as both are good budget options.

For heating, look into one of the adjustable Aqueon heaters. 50W should be enough for that tank.

Do you know what you're looking at for stocking? I'd recommend that you be careful, since this is your first saltwater tank. Saltwater nanos aren't as hard as people like to make them out to be, but stocking lightly is always a good idea.

Thanks,
But can I keep live rock in a BB tank?

I have no Idea what I should put in the tank. Do you have any suggestions for what I should put in it?

 

Yup, Freshwater and Saltwater bacteria DO NOT TRANSFER. The Fluval Evo 13.5 gallon is decent but you will be limited to 3 smaller fish (ie a pair of occ or percula clowns and a small goby). I agree that skipping the skimmer and being more vigilant about NOT overfeeding and water changes would be best. You will need a powerhead/wavemaker to simulate underwater ocean current and the options mentioned in the post above are good choices. For the tank heater, I would personally bump it up to 100 watts unless you live in a climate with more mild winters and just make sure it's intended for use in marine environments (Aqueon, Eheim and just about any other tank heater should be fine outside of Tetra).

 

Yup, Freshwater and Saltwater bacteria DO NOT TRANSFER. The Fluval Evo 13.5 gallon is decent but you will be limited to 3 smaller fish (ie a pair of occ or percula clowns and a small goby). I agree that skipping the skimmer and being more vigilant about NOT overfeeding and water changes would be best. You will need a powerhead/wavemaker to simulate underwater ocean current and the options mentioned in the post above are good choices. For the tank heater, I would personally bump it up to 100 watts unless you live in a climate with more mild winters and just make sure it's intended for use in marine environments (Aqueon, Eheim and just about any other tank heater should be fine outside of Tetra).

Will do.
Thanks

 

C

Thanks,
But can I keep live rock in a BB tank?

Yes, Live Rock will be fine without sand, sand caries very little bacteria in it by comparison. As for Live Rock, you can go with dry rock which is cheap and pest free but it will take longer to establish the biofilter and then there is bacteria coated dry rock (ie Caribsea Life Rock) which has the added benefit of a bacteria coating and being pest free, although it is more expensive. Live Rock iteslf is the most diverse and most effective biofilter, but it is the most expensive and often comes with unwanted pests (ie Aiptasia, Xanthid Crabs, Mantis Shrimp).

 

Yes, Live Rock will be fine without sand, sand caries very little bacteria in it by comparison. As for Live Rock, you can go with dry rock which is cheap and pest free but it will take longer to establish the biofilter and then there is bacteria coated dry rock (ie Caribsea Life Rock) which has the added benefit of a bacteria coating and being pest free, although it is more expensive. Live Rock iteslf is the most diverse and most effective biofilter, but it is the most expensive and often comes with unwanted pests (ie Aiptasia, Xanthid Crabs, Mantis Shrimp).

Could I start off with a little live rock, and put more in as I get more money?

Also, where should I buy live rock?

 

Well, you need to adjust live rock with your stocking. So, realistically, for a fully stocked tank, you're gonna want around 1 pound per gallon of rock. That's going to give you a good amount of bacteria. While you could add rock as you add fish, the problem then becomes that any rock you add is likely going to cause a jump in ammonia (or phosphate), and could cause issues with algae or put your fish's life at risk. I'd recommend adding all of your rock at once when you start the tank, to avoid issues.

You could use a 5 gallon bucket and some water to "cook" your rock, until any dead biomatter is off the rock. You'd probably want a powerhead in there to circulate water, and you could get your rock cycled before you even add it to your established tank. But, that's costly as well, since you have to buy the powerhead, so in all reality, you're probably best to just pay the price upfront.

 

Just me but I would actually recommend going with either dry or bacteria coated dry rock (ie Caribsea Life Rock). It will be pest free and can be had from a wide variety of sources (ie Amazon, Bulk Reef Supply, etc.) and is cheaper. Oh and I agree with the post above, with a tank that small, you really should add it first for a wide variety of reasons:

1) It allows all your rock to establish it's filter at the same time
2) It's less costly as it is cheaper in that size to order it at once instead of a bit here and a bit there
3) Major rockscape changes can be very stressful on your livestock

14lbs of Bulk Reef Supply Dry Saver rock will run you a whopping $34.

 

Just me but I would actually recommend going with either dry or bacteria coated dry rock (ie Caribsea Life Rock). It will be pest free and can be had from a wide variety of sources (ie Amazon, Bulk Reef Supply, etc.) and is cheaper. Oh and I agree with the post above, with a tank that small, you really should add it first for a wide variety of reasons:

1) It allows all your rock to establish it's filter at the same time
2) It's less costly as it is cheaper in that size to order it at once instead of a bit here and a bit there
3) Major rockscape changes can be very stressful on your livestock

14lbs of Bulk Reef Supply Dry Saver rock will run you a whopping $34.

Is there any way to remove pests before you put the live rock in the tank?
I really had my heart set on a beautiful, small coral. I could put the rock in before I add any fish, and let it cycle. Would that work?
I am willing to spend up to 80 Dollars on live rock.

Is there any way to remove pests before you put the live rock in the tank?
I really had my heart set on a beautiful, small coral. I could put the rock in before I add any fish, and let it cycle. Would that work?

Also, is this bacteria coated dry rock?

 

Also, is this bacteria coated dry rock?

No, I would encourage you NOT to order the stuff from ebay. Amazon, Bulk Reef Supply, etc. are much better about guaranteeing their products and warranties. To say nothing of the fact that price is a complete rip off for only 5lbs of rock. Caribsea Life Rock is this stuff:



This option would be better as it is better suited to your size of tank:

 

Thanks!

 

Reefcleaners.org is a good place to get your rock, comes clean and ready to scape. Add a bottle of bacteria (BioSpira or the likes) and a piece of seeded live rock, it’ll help your tank cycle.
As to adding any corals right now, NO! Corals are animals too and they won’t live long (unless it’s aptasia) without your cycle being complete.
Get a good test kit for testing the water during your cycle and watch the ammonia. When I cycled my 75, I ghost fed some flakes (twice a day, just a small pinch) for my ammonia source. There’s others that use Dr. Tim’s ammonia and they can help you with that if you choose to go that route.
There’s good and bad to using live rock that’s already live, the biggest is pests. Some live inside the rock (bristle worms) and can be beneficial to your tank, others can be a royal pain (aptasia) which will be hard to remove because you can’t see them outside the water.
Pay attention to your tank size when stocking it with fish. liveaquaria has some useful info for stocking if you put the tank size in.
Good luck and don’t be afraid to ask questions. Everyone is a newbie at one time.

 

Reefcleaners.org is a good place to get your rock, comes clean and ready to scape. Add a bottle of bacteria (BioSpira or the likes) and a piece of seeded live rock, it’ll help your tank cycle.
As to adding any corals right now, NO! Corals are animals too and they won’t live long (unless it’s aptasia) without your cycle being complete.
Get a good test kit for testing the water during your cycle and watch the ammonia. When I cycled my 75, I ghost fed some flakes (twice a day, just a small pinch) for my ammonia source. There’s others that use Dr. Tim’s ammonia and they can help you with that if you choose to go that route.
There’s good and bad to using live rock that’s already live, the biggest is pests. Some live inside the rock (bristle worms) and can be beneficial to your tank, others can be a royal pain (aptasia) which will be hard to remove because you can’t see them outside the water.
Pay attention to your tank size when stocking it with fish. liveaquaria has some useful info for stocking if you put the tank size in.
Good luck and don’t be afraid to ask questions. Everyone is a newbie at one time.

Thank you so much.
What is seeded live rock?
Is that the rock that I should buy from reefcleaners.org? Or is it something different?
Thank you!

 

I agree with saving funds where you can and using mostly dry rock, and just a little bit of live rock can give you the benefits of both. Dry rock can be purchased very cheap, and live rock will help to seed your tank with beneficial bacteria (for a faster cycle), and microfauna which will lead to a mature tank (meaning, safer for more sensitive species like corals), at a faster rate. However, both dry and live rock also have their cons, and patient research is your best friend in the reefing hobby. In a nutshell, live rock can bring pests, as others have mentioned. Dry rock will take longer to cycle and mature, and may also need to be cured to leach any algae-causing nutrients like phosphates and nitrates. Yet... not all pests are so bad, (though some need to be killed with fire!), and not all dry rock needs curing, (though for some types of rock, the curing can take months!) So, do your research and decide which is best for you. FYI, when starting my tank, after doing my own research, I decided to go with dry rock alone. Reading these stickies helped a lot with decision making.
Nart's Budget Nano Saltwater Guide For Beginners
Starting a Saltwater System - Part 1 - Where to start (Research)
Starting a Saltwater System - Part 2 - Bringing Nature Home (Researching Equipment)
Starting a Saltwater System - Part 3 - Designing, Setting up and Running your system

These videos, the playlists, and the channel in their entirety have been very helpful in my reefing journey.

Seeded live rock is wet, mature live rock that is full of life. As opposed to, dry live rock, which is rock that used to be alive but is now dry and just rocks... but the rocks are made of the right stuff, because it is rock that was once part of a reef instead of from a mountain or canyon.

 

The rock from reefcleaners.org is ready to go in your tank, that’s why I chose them over others, but just remember, it won’t be white for very long. You don’t have to cure theirs. You can ask them for various sizes (which I didn’t do) and they will do their best to fulfill your request. Best part is, their shipping is free. Just make sure you specify no rubble. There will be some from shipping though.

 

Thank you so much. You all have helped a lot! Thanks

 

So there is a difference between coral and live rock.

 

Live Rock is technically dead coral which becomes home to various bacterial, wildlife and is the cornerstone for filtration/base for the coral reef in nature. Dry Rock is the dead coral before it has had a chance to become host to anything living (Bacteria or Wildlife) Corals are live animals (not plants as they are often confused with). Coral Technically are invertebrate animals and the polyps are all individual animals (hence the need for some feeding and nutrients). As for the rock selection, the best compromise for pest free would be to go to a local fish store and get a piece of the caribsea life rock and then get the dry rock, that way you get a source of bacteria that is also pest free and can help seed the dry rock with good bacteria.

 

Live Rock is technically dead coral which becomes home to various bacterial, wildlife and is the cornerstone for filtration/base for the coral reef in nature. Dry Rock is the dead coral before it has had a chance to become host to anything living (Bacteria or Wildlife) Corals are live animals (not plants as they are often confused with). Coral Technically are invertebrate animals and the polyps are all individual animals (hence the need for some feeding and nutrients). As for the rock selection, the best compromise for pest free would be to go to a local fish store and get a piece of the caribsea life rock and then get the dry rock, that way you get a source of bacteria that is also pest free and can help seed the dry rock with good bacteria.

My petco has live rock for sale, right our of their tank, is that what I should get, in addition to the dry rock?

 

If your tank is going to be in a house that's temperature regulated, meaning, it doesn't get extremely cold... I would recommend going with a 50W heater instead of a 100W.
This is for safety purposes, just in case the heater malfunctions and stays in the "ON" position, you won't fry your fishes as quickly.

 

My petco has live rock for sale, right our of their tank, is that what I should get, in addition to the dry rock?

I strongly discourage buying live rock and fish from Petco unless there is no other choice. Some of them maintain their tanks well but many do not. My local Petco has overpriced live rock that is crawling with bristleworms (which is usually indicative of tanks that are not well kept as their populations tend to explode when excessive nutrients are present). Bristleworms in and of themselves are not terrible, but when there are many of them and they grow large it looks less like live rocks and more of a home for parasites. Furthermore as mentioned getting real live rock is taking a roll of the dice with pests. As mentioned your best be would be to get a piece of the Caribsea Life Rock and combine it with the dry rock, that way you get a source of established bacteria without the pests (or the uglies).

 

Would 13 pounds of this be OK for my tank?

 

That would work fine. It’s already cured.

 

That would, but be aware it will likely develop pests.

 

Pests will eventually get in your tank anyway, go for it.

 

Yes and no, the only pest I have had is a single Aiptasia that hitch hiked in on a zoanthid frag. I killed it when it was very small and the only one.

 

If you order rock on line, I personally use Marco rock. I got some really artsy pieces there. Then got some local live rock but not local enough and would have had die off. Just know you will need to clean the live (if you order online or transport long distance) again and I did that in a trash can with heater and powerhead and salt water for a few weeks. It worked great and was beautiful!

 

Yup, I did the trash can cycling as well when I upgraded (used it for the additional rock) and it worked perfectly. No issues after it cycled and the old pre-cycled stuff from the tank was enough to keep my lightly stocked 90 going in the meantime.

 

I will get some reef saver rock from BRS, and I will not order a kit but buy a 10 gallon tank and all I need from amazon.
I don't need to cure the rock and it's really cheep. I will also pick up some live rock from a local, family-owned fish store, to help cycle my tank.

 

Is Petco running one of their dollar per gallon sales? I don't recommend buying live stock or rock from Petco, but they are perfectly fine for purchasing the mechanical type components and tanks from. It would actually be cheaper than Amazon and you could get a 20 Long (which would be a much better starter tank) for a whopping $20. 10 gallon will severely limit your stocking options for fish (ie 2 of the smallest fish):

Firefish
Possum Wrasse
Smallest Gobies

The 20 Long will allow the aforementioned plus the following list (and up to 4 total fish):

Ocellaris or Percula Clownfish
Cardinalfish
Royal Gramma Basslet
Pink Streaked Wrasse
All but the largest Gobies
Any but the largest of the Peaceful variety Blennies

 

How much is a 20 gallon tank at petco?

 

How much is a 20 gallon tank at petco?

If the dollar per gallon sale is going, it's $20 for either a regular 20 gallon or a 20 Long (they have both) and the 20 Long is a much better use of space/dimensions. As it is a shallower tank it will be easier to light if you decide to do corals. A 10 gallon tank from Amazon runs $10-$15. The total cost in equipment will be marginally more expensive than the 10 gallon (ie 15lbs of BRS rock, 5lbs of live or life rock, 100 watt tank heater vs 50 watts).

 

The sale just ended. I think I will see is there are any used ones for sale in my neighborhood. If not, I will just have to pick one up at petco or my LFS.

 

If you order rock on line, I personally use Marco rock. I got some really artsy pieces there. Then got some local live rock but not local enough and would have had die off. Just know you will need to clean the live (if you order online or transport long distance) again and I did that in a trash can with heater and powerhead and salt water for a few weeks. It worked great and was beautiful!

Will I have to clean any rock from my LFS? It's not from a chain store.

 

Talk to the local shop. Most marine stores are very helpful and want your business-at least in my area. Transport in buckets - if you can with salt water and find out what there's is set up at.
I kept my reef tanks at 1.026 and you will want to match the tank at home to theirs if you want to place the rock directly in your tank without a lot of die off.
Call and ask them how to transport as well. I have moved rock in wet old newspaper and in buckets. I prefer the bucket method.

 

I agree with the bucket method, it keeps the rock submerged in saltwater. I used it on a smaller scale when transferring from my old tank to my current tank and it worked like a charm. You shouldn't have to clean the rock from your LFS, although if it is dry rock you are using, you will definitely want to soak it in either RODI or RODI/Saltwater Mix. This will allow you to rinse any potential phosphate producing residuals off of it.

The OP, that just occurred to me that we forgot to address the use of RODI water. Treated Tapwater mixed with salt doesn't work in most cases (causes long term headaches and excessive nuisance algae, nitrates, phosphates, etc.) An RODI system strips all the solids, minerals out of tap water to give you zero TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) which gives you the purest possible water source. That is a major difference between Freshwater and Saltwater is that in Freshwater you want the tap water minerals, but in saltwater you don't. Many LFS sell RODI or RODI/Saltwater pre-mix or you can buy your own RODI system. They range from $60 for the Aquatic Life RO Buddie to around $150 for the nicer units from Amazon or BRS. The trade offs between the cheapest one and the more expensive units are:

The Aquatic Life is portable and relatively easy to hook up (you can even hook it to a garden hose if you want), and it is cheap to buy. The cons are that it produces more waste water than the more expensive units (ie 1 gallon of RODI to 6-7 gallons of waste water vs 1 gallon of RODI to 3-4 gallons of waste water for the more expensive units), has more expensive and limited options for replacement cartridges/resins. A 50 GPD (Gallon Per Day) unit will produce more than enough for what you need for your tank.

 

I had several salt tanks- soft coral, seahorses, LPS and later, much later SPS reef tanks. This is just a couple of shots of a couple of different tanks, The smallest saltwater I had was 29 gallon and the largest was 150g. I will tell you the 150 was overall easier to regulate but also fairly expensive.

seahorse.2.20.15.3

• Claire Bear
• Feb 20, 2015

 

The 150 would be more stable, but as you mentioned it was significantly more expensive and of course with all the additional equipment to maintain it can become cumbersome. I definitely spend more time on cleaning glass, changing filter socks, etc. on my 90 gallon than I did on my 36 gallon.