What Nitrate Levels Are Acceptable While Cycling?

What kind of nitrate levels are acceptable while cycling? This is my current reading. Also attaching a picture of my ammonia reading

 

Dear Adelya Mamedova

You never want nitrate. NEVER. To lower nitrate, do a partial or complete water change. That would be perfect!

JtheFishMan

 

Dear Adelya Mamedova

You never want nitrate. NEVER. To lower nitrate, do a partial or complete water change. That would be perfect!

JtheFishMan

I think you may be confused with nitrite. Nitrate is the end product of the cycle and is okay to have. If fishless cycling I think up to 4 ppm nitrites are okay and I don't think there is really a limit on nitrates while cycling fishless. After you have added fish you want to keep your nitrates under 20-40 depending on plants&fish species. After cycling is complete you want your nitrites to be 0.

 

Well that’s usually the end result of cycling. No ammonia and a nitrate reading. Of course the apI color chart is impossible to read. How long have you been cycling?

 

Well that’s usually the end result of cycling. No ammonia and a nitrate reading. Of course the apI color chart is impossible to read. How long have you been cycling?

It has been 3 weeks

 

Is it a fish in cycle? Did you use some sort of beneficial bacteria?

 

We're cycling with the cichlids that's why I want to be careful. We constantly check levels and do water changes when ammonia levels are .25 or above. We do also use the API QuickStart, which has bacteria. Is that something that is recommended? Any other tips?

 

Welcome to fishlore. How big of a tank and how many fish and what types of fish.

 

Welcome to fishlore. How big of a tank and how many fish and what types of fish.

We have a 75 gallon tank. We initially started with 6. Now we have:
3 kenyis
5 peacocks
1 yellow lab
1 taiwain reef hap
1 Sciaenochromis fryerI and
1 OB zebra

They're fed 1x a day

 

Your end result is NOT to have nitrates at o. You want them to remain below 40ppm and preferably at 5 or 10ppm.

 

Your end result is NOT to have nitrates at o. You want them to remain below 40ppm and preferably at 5 or 10ppm.

OK thanks!

 

Your 3 weeks in cycling and your nitrates are between 40 and 80 so I would do a 20gal water change. Let the tank sit for a day and than test again. As Goldie said keep it under 40 and you should be good. Just keep testing every three days for at least another month because that’s still a new tank. Good luck and enjoy your fish.

 

Your 3 weeks in cycling and your nitrates are between 40 and 80 so I would do a 20gal water change. Let the tank sit for a day and than test again. As Goldie said keep it under 40 and you should be good. Just keep testing every three days for at least another month because that’s still a new tank. Good luck and enjoy your fish.

Thanks!

 

What is your nitrite reading? Nitrites will kill fish just as fast as ammonia. Nitrates are less important but you do want to keep it under 40ppm. It's unrealistic to try for 5-10ppm in a cichlid tank.

I didn't have any luck with API QuickStart when cycling a 20 gallon last year. Tetra Safe Start Plus worked in less than 5 days for me but since you're 3 weeks in and you have fish, I would recommend Stability so you can still do water changes if needed. With any bacteria-in-a-bottle, you want to shake the bottle really well. Then shake again.

What type of filter do you have on the tank?

 

If you're going to use a bacteria supplement, in my opinion, Tetra Safe Start is the best. I have used it in both of my tanks and it really does work. I have used just the regular Safe Start, not the plus.

 

If you're going to use a bacteria supplement, in my opinion, Tetra Safe Start is the best. I have used it in both of my tanks and it really does work. I have used just the regular Safe Start, not the plus.

Is this something I can use during water changes?

 

What is your nitrite reading? Nitrites will kill fish just as fast as ammonia. Nitrates are less important but you do want to keep it under 40ppm. It's unrealistic to try for 5-10ppm in a cichlid tank.

I didn't have any luck with API QuickStart when cycling a 20 gallon last year. Tetra Safe Start Plus worked in less than 5 days for me but since you're 3 weeks in and you have fish, I would recommend Stability so you can still do water changes if needed. With any bacteria-in-a-bottle, you want to shake the bottle really well. Then shake again.

What type of filter do you have on the tank?

The filter is by Eheim.

 

Is this something I can use during water changes?

Yes, you can but you shouldn't have to after the tank is finished cycling.

 

Is this something I can use during water changes?

TSS and TSS+ can't be used with water conditioners. You need to wait at least 24hr after treating tap water. That's why I recommended Seachem Stability.

The filter is by Eheim.

Model? Just curious how much filtration you have for a cichlid tank. Cichlids are messy so you want to lean toward the higher turnover rate of 8x (4-8x for canisters) or 600gph. I have about 1083gph on my 75 gallon with rainbows, Electric Blue Acaras, Denison Barbs, cories and 3 plecos.

 

TSS and TSS+ can't be used with water conditioners. You need to wait at least 24hr after treating tap water. That's why I recommended Seachem Stability.

That completely depends on the water being used. If the water shows no ammonia or nitrites after conditioning (like mine), then TSS can be used. It also could be added to the tank after the new water is put in which would actually be the best way to do it. Like I said though, if the tank is done cycling, you should never have to add any kind of bacteria supplement. You don't remove much bacteria by changing water, practically none.

 

That completely depends on the water being used. If the water shows no ammonia or nitrites after conditioning (like mine), then TSS can be used. It also could be added to the tank after the new water is put in which would actually be the best way to do it. Like I said though, if the tank is done cycling, you should never have to add any kind of bacteria supplement. You don't remove much bacteria by changing water, practically none.

It has nothing to do with the amount of ammonia or nitrites. The conditioner (Prime, StressCoat or whatever) interferes with TSS+. Seachem claims that it doesn't but Tetra and many hobbyists disagree. Stability does work with Prime as Seachem uses a different type of bacteria than Tetra. Tetra even states in their instructions not to use TSS+ within 24hrs of treating water.

 

TSS and TSS+ can't be used with water conditioners. You need to wait at least 24hr after treating tap water. That's why I recommended Seachem Stability.


Model? Just curious how much filtration you have for a cichlid tank. Cichlids are messy so you want to lean toward the higher turnover rate of 8x (4-8x for canisters) or 600gph. I have about 1083gph on my 75 gallon with rainbows, Electric Blue Acaras, Denison Barbs, cories and 3 plecos.

Is this one OK?

 

It has nothing to do with the amount of ammonia or nitrites. The conditioner (Prime, StressCoat or whatever) interferes wi.th TSS+. Seachem claims that it doesn't but Tetra and many hobbyists disagree. Stability does work with Prime as Seachem uses a different type of bacteria than Tetra. Tetra even states in their instructions not to use TSS+ within 24hrs of treating water.

They say not to use it with a product that removes ammonia. (like Prime) Not all conditioners do. I just use a standard dechlorinator that has only sodium thiosulfate in it. That should be okay. Sodium Thiosulfate breaks the bond between the chlorine and ammonia and neutralizes the chlorine. I don't know if it does anything to the ammonia but my water tests negative for ammonia after using the dechlorinator so maybe it removes that too.

In any case, treating the water, adding it to the tank, and THEN adding the TSS should not be a problem. The conditioner, if used correctly, will only work on the new water and have no effect on the water that was already in the tank because it will have been used up by the new water.

 

I'm getting the TSS tomorrow. The manufacturer said to add the entire bottle to our 75 gallon tank.

Also, got the nitrite test today and it reads .25. Tested ammonia at the same time and it was 0. Water change?

Tap water reading for both was 0.

 

If your ammonia is 0 and nitrites are only .25, you are in the last stages of the cycle and it should finish very soon.

 

If your ammonia is 0 and nitrites are only .25, you are in the last stages of the cycle and it should finish very soon.

Ahh OK so I should do nothing?

 

Ahh OK so I should do nothing?

You might not need the TSS to finish the cycle but it wouldn't hurt to use it after putting fish in.

 

You might not need the TSS to finish the cycle but it wouldn't hurt to use it after putting fish in.

. OK thanks I will do that. I already have fish in there.