What can I immediately do for high nitrate?

Papahastheapplw
  • #1
Hi, I am a new fish owner with one blood red parrot fish cichlid that I have owned for about a week and two goldfish that I got around 5 days ago. I previously had a feeder goldfish and a crayfish but the parrot fish unfortunately killed them both. The two goldfish are in a separate tank now. My recent problem is that I noticed both of their tanks stunk and that the parrot fish in particular was acting stressed, turning pale, and not eating so I decided to get a test kit immediately. It turns out that the parrot fish’s water has high levels of nitrate, with his nitrate 2 coming back with results of either 2.0 or 5.0 ppm. His nitrate 3 results came back as 20 ppm. Unfortunately, I’m a minor and I don’t have a source of income nor a drivers license yet so I have no means of buying anything myself. My dad has ordered a sand/gravel cleaning and water suction device but it arrives by Wednesday (it’s currently monday) and I’m worried that the parrot fish won’t make it until then. I went to the pet store with my mom today and we bought Prime Seachem concentrated conditioner and API quickstart but I’m not sure if it will help or not. We are in a tough spot with money right now and my parents will not let me get a big device for it just yet, but they’re willing to buy small things like solutions and anything else small that will help. Is there anything I can do or buy in the meantime to change the water or ease the toxicity? Would it be dangerous if I changed it with a bucket rather than a proper tool? Does the difference between the results of nitrate 2 and 3 indicate that one of the dead fish is decaying in there? If anyone knows, please tell me as soon as possible.
 

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NayNay
  • #2
Hi, I am a new fish owner with one blood red parrot fish cichlid that I have owned for about a week and two goldfish that I got around 5 days ago. I previously had a feeder goldfish and a crayfish but the parrot fish unfortunately killed them both. The two goldfish are in a separate tank now. My recent problem is that I noticed both of their tanks stunk and that the parrot fish in particular was acting stressed, turning pale, and not eating so I decided to get a test kit immediately. It turns out that the parrot fish’s water has high levels of nitrate, with his nitrate 2 coming back with results of either 2.0 or 5.0 ppm. His nitrate 3 results came back as 20 ppm. Unfortunately, I’m a minor and I don’t have a source of income nor a drivers license yet so I have no means of buying anything myself. My dad has ordered a sand/gravel cleaning and water suction device but it arrives by Wednesday (it’s currently monday) and I’m worried that the parrot fish won’t make it until then. I went to the pet store with my mom today and we bought Prime Seachem concentrated conditioner and API quickstart but I’m not sure if it will help or not. We are in a tough spot with money right now and my parents will not let me get a big device for it just yet, but they’re willing to buy small things like solutions and anything else small that will help. Is there anything I can do or buy in the meantime to change the water or ease the toxicity? Would it be dangerous if I changed it with a bucket rather than a proper tool? Does the difference between the results of nitrate 2 and 3 indicate that one of the dead fish is decaying in there? If anyone knows, please tell me as soon as possible.
How big is your tank? And what are the other parameters? Nitrite, ammonia, Ph? Did you let your tank cycle before you put him into the tank?
 

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Dunk2
  • #3
I’m not familiar with the 3 nitrate tests you’re referring to. . . What kind of test kit are you using?

As a general answer, nitrates are typically lowered with water changes. How often have you been doing water changes and how much?
 
Azedenkae
  • #4
Hi, I am a new fish owner with one blood red parrot fish cichlid that I have owned for about a week and two goldfish that I got around 5 days ago. I previously had a feeder goldfish and a crayfish but the parrot fish unfortunately killed them both. The two goldfish are in a separate tank now. My recent problem is that I noticed both of their tanks stunk and that the parrot fish in particular was acting stressed, turning pale, and not eating so I decided to get a test kit immediately. It turns out that the parrot fish’s water has high levels of nitrate, with his nitrate 2 coming back with results of either 2.0 or 5.0 ppm.
Is this the purple colored test readings? Sounds like it is from an API nitrite test. Are you sure you don't mean nitrite instead of nitrate? I am presuming you are misunderstanding something, and nitrate 2 and nitrate 3 are nitrite and nitrate respectively, and probably nitrate 1 would then be ammonia (though you have yet to mention that).
His nitrate 3 results came back as 20 ppm. Unfortunately, I’m a minor and I don’t have a source of income nor a drivers license yet so I have no means of buying anything myself. My dad has ordered a sand/gravel cleaning and water suction device but it arrives by Wednesday (it’s currently monday) and I’m worried that the parrot fish won’t make it until then. I went to the pet store with my mom today and we bought Prime Seachem concentrated conditioner and API quickstart but I’m not sure if it will help or not. We are in a tough spot with money right now and my parents will not let me get a big device for it just yet, but they’re willing to buy small things like solutions and anything else small that will help. Is there anything I can do or buy in the meantime to change the water or ease the toxicity? Would it be dangerous if I changed it with a bucket rather than a proper tool?
No, it would not be dangerous, unless the bucket is something that clearly leaches chemicals into the water.

Do a 100% water change. That's probably your best recourse right now.
 
Dunk2
  • #5
Papahastheapplw Please don’t do a 100% water change until you’re able to give us more information.
 
Papahastheapplw
  • Thread Starter
  • #6
How big is your tank? And what are the other parameters? Nitrite, ammonia, Ph? Did you let your tank cycle before you put him into the tank?
The tank is 30 gallons and the other parameters, like ammonia and ph, turned out normal. I now realize I was mistaking nitrite as “nitrate 2”. I do apologize. Unfortunately, I did not cycle his tank beforehand. I don’t know if his previous owners did either.
 

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86 ssinit
  • #7
Lol there are 2 nitrate bottles for one test. Both bottles are added for the test. The second bottle needs to be shock heavily. And when mixed together they need to be shock for a minute.
 
Dunk2
  • #8
The tank is 30 gallons and the other parameters, like ammonia and ph, turned out normal. I now realize I was mistaking nitrite as “nitrate 2”. I do apologize. Unfortunately, I did not cycle his tank beforehand. I don’t know if his previous owners did either.

So you’re using the API Master Test kit?
 
Papahastheapplw
  • Thread Starter
  • #9
I’m not familiar with the 3 nitrate tests you’re referring to. . . What kind of test kit are you using?

As a general answer, nitrates are typically lowered with water changes. How often have you been doing water changes and how much?
Sorry, it looks like I’m mistaken. The nitrate 2 I’m referring to is actually nitrite and the nitrate 3 is just regular nitrate.
I’ve only had the tank for about a week so I’m yet to do water changes.
 
86 ssinit
  • #10
Retest the nitrite first 5 drops into vial than retest the nitrate using 2 bottles that are labeled 1 and 2. Nitrite has no number
 

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Papahastheapplw
  • Thread Starter
  • #11
Is this the purple colored test readings? Sounds like it is from an API nitrite test. Are you sure you don't mean nitrite instead of nitrate? I am presuming you are misunderstanding something, and nitrate 2 and nitrate 3 are nitrite and nitrate respectively, and probably nitrate 1 would then be ammonia (though you have yet to mention that).

No, it would not be dangerous, unless the bucket is something that clearly leaches chemicals into the water.

Do a 100% water change. That's probably your best recourse right now.
You’re right, I was wrong lol. Sorry about that. I’m not familiar with nitrite. How toxic is it?
 
Azedenkae
  • #12
Sorry, it looks like I’m mistaken. The nitrate 2 I’m referring to is actually nitrite and the nitrate 3 is just regular nitrate.
I’ve only had the tank for about a week so I’m yet to do water changes.
So I was correct in my assumption then. Cool.

So yeah chances are that your nitrite is off the charts, so yeah do the 100% water change to get rid of all of it asap.
 
Papahastheapplw
  • Thread Starter
  • #13
Retest the nitrite first 5 drops into vial than retest the nitrate using 2 bottles that are labeled 1 and 2. Nitrite has no number
It doesn’t have a number? How do I know how bad it is then?
 
Dunk2
  • #14
If you’re using the API kit, can you test your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels now and post pictures of the test result? Follow the test kit instructions carefully.
 

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86 ssinit
  • #15
How often do you change water? This is the best and easiest way to reduce nitrate. But a reading of 20 ain’t bad. The nitrite reading of 2-3 is bad. For that change 50% water today and every day till it’s zero.
It doesn’t have a number? How do I know how bad it is then?
No the chart has numbers but there is no number 2 on the bottle.
 
Azedenkae
  • #16
You’re right, I was wrong lol. Sorry about that.
Absolutely no probs.
I’m not familiar with nitrite. How toxic is it?
It is less toxic to parrot fish (I presume you mean a parrot cichlid), but still toxic, especially now since you are seeing very bad signs - turning pale, etc. That's why I recommend the 100% water change. We don't know the true nitrite level and it can be very, very, very high. It's best to get rid of all that nitrite asap. Yes a 100% water change in and of itself can stress the fish, but no more than constantly subjecting it to high levels of nitrite. Smaller water changes will likely still leave plenty of nitrite left, so I don't recommend a series of small water changes.
 
NayNay
  • #17
So I was correct in my assumption then. Cool.

So yeah chances are that your nitrite is off the charts, so yeah do the 100% water change to get rid of all of it asap.
I agree. Do a 100% water change. If you don't have another tank that has cycled you will just have to keep a close eye on your nitrite levels for the first month. With that sized tank it should be cycled by then.
 
Papahastheapplw
  • Thread Starter
  • #18
If you’re using the API kit, can you test your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels now and post pictures of the test result? Follow the test kit instructions carefully.
I don’t have pictures, but when I initially tested the ammonia it came out as 0. I made this post just after I tested them, does the result seem innacurate and do you want me to redo the test?
 

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Dunk2
  • #19
It is less toxic to parrot fish (I presume you mean a parrot cichlid), but still toxic, especially now since you are seeing very bad signs - turning pale, etc. That's why I recommend the 100% water change. We don't know the true nitrite level and it can be very, very, very high. It's best to get rid of all that nitrite asap. Yes a 100% water change in and of itself can stress the fish, but no more than constantly subjecting it to high levels of nitrite. Smaller water changes will likely still leave plenty of nitrite left, so I don't recommend a series of small water changes.

IMO, we shouldn’t be recommending anything until we’re certain what the OP’s water parameters really are.

I don’t have pictures, but when I initially tested the ammonia it came out as 0. I made this post just after I tested them, does the result seem innacurate and do you want me to redo the test?
Yes, and post pictures of the test results.
 
86 ssinit
  • #20
Ok the problem with a 100% water change is the fish has been in this water for awhile now and that big of a change will shock it and most likely kill it. As I said do 50% water change. How big is the tank? Gallons.
 
Papahastheapplw
  • Thread Starter
  • #21
Absolutely no probs.

It is less toxic to parrot fish (I presume you mean a parrot cichlid), but still toxic, especially now since you are seeing very bad signs - turning pale, etc. That's why I recommend the 100% water change. We don't know the true nitrite level and it can be very, very, very high. It's best to get rid of all that nitrite asap. Yes a 100% water change in and of itself can stress the fish, but no more than constantly subjecting it to high levels of nitrite. Smaller water changes will likely still leave plenty of nitrite left, so I don't recommend a series of small water changes.
How would you recommend I do a 100% water change? I don’t have any tools as of right now. Only buckets and such.
Ok the problem with a 100% water change is the fish has been in this water for awhile now and that big of a change will shock it and most likely kill it. As I said do 50% water change. How big is the tank? Gallons.
It’s 30 gallons.
 
Azedenkae
  • #22
How would you recommend I do a 100% water change? I don’t have any tools as of right now. Only buckets and such.
I'd recommend the fish be put in a separate container, then use the bucket to empty as much of the water as possible.

You won't get all the water, but as close as possible works. Then fill it up to about the 10cm mark with dechlorinated water, then remove that water. You can do that twice to be sure. Then fill up with fresh water, and add fish back in. And then we hope the fish recovers.

Why do the fill up to 10cm then remove again? It helps dilutes the remaining water in the tank at the very bottom, getting rid of just that bit more nitrite.
 

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86 ssinit
  • #23
Great change out 15 gals. Hard to do without stuff. So get a Tupperware container. A gallon one will work fine. Use it to remove 15 gallons. Than use it to refill till full. Add a cap full of prime after about 5 gal. This will reduce the nitrite by 50%. So you have to do this daily and retest the water about an hour after refill.
Next test your tap water out of the faucet. Do all tests and tell us the results.
 
Papahastheapplw
  • Thread Starter
  • #24
I'd recommend the fish be put in a separate container, then use the bucket to empty as much of the water as possible.

You won't get all the water, but as close as possible works. Then fill it up to about the 10cm mark with dechlorinated water, then remove that water. You can do that twice to be sure. Then fill up with fresh water, and add fish back in. And then we hope the fish recovers.

Why do the fill up to 10cm then remove again? It helps dilutes the remaining water in the tank at the very bottom, getting rid of just that bit more nitrite.
I don’t know if I’ll do the 100% change or not, but for water changes in general, would it be safe to put tap water in a bucket and then put some kind of chlorine/other chemical dissolving solution in (likely API quickstart)? If not, would it be better if I bought distilled water or is there some other kind of solution?
 
86 ssinit
  • #25
I'd recommend the fish be put in a separate container, then use the bucket to empty as much of the water as possible.

You won't get all the water, but as close as possible works. Then fill it up to about the 10cm mark with dechlorinated water, then remove that water. You can do that twice to be sure. Then fill up with fresh water, and add fish back in. And then we hope the fish recovers.

Why do the fill up to 10cm then remove again? It helps dilutes the remaining water in the tank at the very bottom, getting rid of just that bit more nitrite.
Just curious where do you come up with this? I can change 90% of my water because I do this many times. But if you’ve never changed this much water your looking at a disaster. The fish just can’t handle it.
 
Dunk2
  • #26
I don’t know if I’ll do the 100% change or not, but for water changes in general, would it be safe to put tap water in a bucket and then put some kind of chlorine/other chemical dissolving solution in (likely API quickstart)? If not, would it be better if I bought distilled water or is there some other kind of solution?
No one knows what’s better until we’re sure we know your test results.
 

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86 ssinit
  • #27
The bottle of prime your mother bought is what is added to tap water.
 
Azedenkae
  • #28
I don’t know if I’ll do the 100% change or not, but for water changes in general, would it be safe to put tap water in a bucket and then put some kind of chlorine/other chemical dissolving solution in (likely API quickstart)? If not, would it be better if I bought distilled water or is there some other kind of solution?
API Quick Start is beneficial bacteria, but yes. You can just put tap wtaer in a bucket and dechlorinate it. Prime is a dechlorinator.

If you go with the smaller water changes route, my advice is to keep a very watchful eye on your fish. My only fear is that your nitrite is wayyyy high and even with 50% water changes over multiple days, it'd still be so high that the fish will straight up die.

My experience is that fish generally prefer to be stressed out by a single 100% water change, but then they get to live in good water quality, than stressing them less with smaller water changes, but then continuing to subject them to poor water conditions. If we have to do one of two evils, I'd think the lesser of two evils is preferable.
 
86 ssinit
  • #29
What’s you’ve done has been done by many before you. Please retest your tank water and test your tap water. After that give us the results.
API Quick Start is beneficial bacteria, but yes. You can just put tap wtaer in a bucket and dechlorinate it. Prime is a dechlorinator.

If you go with the smaller water changes route, my advice is to keep a very watchful eye on your fish. My only fear is that your nitrite is wayyyy high and even with 50% water changes over multiple days, it'd still be so high that the fish will straight up die.

My experience is that fish generally prefer to be stressed out by a single 100% water change, but then they get to live in good water quality, than stressing them less with smaller water changes, but then continuing to subject them to poor water conditions. If we have to do one of two evils, I'd think the lesser of two evils is preferable.
Ok this is wrong! The stress of taking fish from bad water and dropping them into fresh clean water will outright kill them. Slowly changing the water to clean water is your best chance. Many have lost there tanks they had for years by changing to much water.
 
Azedenkae
  • #30
Just curious where do you come up with this? I can change 90% of my water because I do this many times. But if you’ve never changed this much water your looking at a disaster. The fish just can’t handle it.
From experience.

I found that when fish are healthy, they don't care about a big water change anyways. But they will care about being put in bad water conditions.

When a fish is unhealthy, it is even worse. Keeping it in bad water quality will make its health deteriorate much faster than subjecting it to a big water change once.
 

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Papahastheapplw
  • Thread Starter
  • #31
No one knows what’s better until we’re sure we know your test results.
I’m confused, what about my results makes you think they’re inaccurate?
 
Azedenkae
  • #32
I’m confused, what about my results makes you think they’re inaccurate?
I believe they just thought you never posted up results.

But you did, in the very first post, albeit as nitrate 2 and nitrate 3. But we've already resolved that by figuring out you meant nitrite and nitrate.

I think you can repost your results from your first post to help them understand that.
 
Dunk2
  • #33
I’m confused, what about my results makes you think they’re inaccurate?
This is your call, but I’d suggest you test ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels again now and post pictures of the results here. Make sure you do each test exactly according to the instructions.
 
Papahastheapplw
  • Thread Starter
  • #34
I believe they just thought you never posted up results.

But you did, in the very first post, albeit as nitrate 2 and nitrate 3. But we've already resolved that by figuring out you meant nitrite and nitrate.

I think you can repost your results from your first post to help them understand that.
Ah, I see. In that case, my
Lol it got cut off. My nitrite level is either 2.0 or 5.0, it wasn’t quite clear. And my nitrate levels are at 20 ppm.
 

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86 ssinit
  • #35
It’s the either 2 or 5 is why we would like you to retake it.
 
StarGirl
  • #36
Ah, I see. In that case, my
Lol it got cut off. My nitrite level is either 2.0 or 5.0, it wasn’t quite clear. And my nitrate levels are at 20 ppm.
There is a big difference between 2 and 5ppm. Thats why we asked for a picture, thats all. They are both bad, but 2 is much easier to deal with how much water to change. You really should change 50% right now regardless, and re test after that. I wouldnt worry about Nitrate testing until you get the Nitrite under control. Its just a waste of solution IMO.

Ninja'd by 86 ;)
 
Azedenkae
  • #37
Ah, I see. In that case, my
Lol it got cut off.
All good. XD
My nitrite level is either 2.0 or 5.0, it wasn’t quite clear. And my nitrate levels are at 20 ppm.
It's probably 5ppm, the nitrite test kit is notorious for being hard to differentiate between those two colors. I mean I guess seeing the actual vials could help, but honestly I doubt it is 2ppm based on your description, both of the tank smelling and the way the fish is acting.
 
Papahastheapplw
  • Thread Starter
  • #38
Sorry all for taking so long to respond. I replaced 50% of the water and yesterday he was doing better but today he seems even worse. His color hasn’t changed at all and he’s sinking to the bottom, staying in place. I’m really at a loss for what to do. I tested his nitrite and it came out as 0 ppm this time but I really don’t see how that’s possible so I plan on retaking it later if I get the chance. I’ll show you guys my result as well and I’ll take the other tests when I can. I don’t have a lot of free time so it might take a while.
 

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Dunk2
  • #39
Sorry all for taking so long to respond. I replaced 50% of the water and yesterday he was doing better but today he seems even worse. His color hasn’t changed at all and he’s sinking to the bottom, staying in place. I’m really at a loss for what to do. I tested his nitrite and it came out as 0 ppm this time but I really don’t see how that’s possible so I plan on retaking it later if I get the chance. I’ll show you guys my result as well and I’ll take the other tests when I can. I don’t have a lot of free time so it might take a while.
Are you sure you are doing the tests exactly according to the API instructions? Also, be sure to shake each of the test solution bottles before using them.
 
Papahastheapplw
  • Thread Starter
  • #40
Are you sure you are doing the tests exactly according to the API instructions? Also, be sure to shake each of the test solution bottles before using them.
I believe I did it right the first time but
I believe I did it right the first time but
But I’m not sure I did the second time. I’ll do it again

98453F49-0AC4-4BBE-BB86-F8C49796ECFF.png Hello everyone. These are the results I got from my recent water test. I made sure I followed all the manual directions very carefully and I had my mom there to watch and help too. Unfortunately, I think that it’s too late now no matter what I do. I think the stress got to him and after swimming lopsidedly, he’s now sitting in the bottom corner of the tank unresponsively. He’s breathing very slowly and is occasionally twitching. If there’s any last ditch effort I can do to help him or even soothe him before he dies please let me know. That being said, I want to thank everyone for doing their best to help me. If there’s any tips you can give me for my other goldfish or for any other fish I might own, please let me know. Again, thank you all. I did the best I could.
 

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