What Are My Options For Algae?

I have a Fluval Spec V, 5 gallon with the upgraded plant light. No matter my lighting schedule, it grows all sorts of algae. Neon green algae in some places, and long/stringy hair algae on my glass. There's brown algae growing near my intake. Point is, I've wiped it away dozens of times but it keeps coming back. Especially on my anubias plant, which isn't doing too great because of it. Is there anything I can do to get rid of this permantely? I don't dose any fertilizers as my java fern and anubias were doing well without it. The only occupant is a betta fish. Is there any kind of shrimp that would help me specifically? Snails aren't an option because I can't use the lid for my tank as the heater I bought was a size too big (doesn't fit in my sump as planned). Thank you for all of you feedback!

The pictures don't make it seem as bad as it is because I cleaned the tank yesterday. This is what has grown during the day and some that I've missed. I cleaned my anubias off, but as you can see it's over taken it in no time. Bleh. (Also, there are bubbles in the algae because my tank evaporates really fast and I had just gotten done adding in some more water. It's been very oxygenated lately).

 

Yup, this happened to me as well. I recommend you up your plant stock. The plants will compete with the algae and if they are healthy, they will keep it at bay. I highly recommend Otto´s for cleaning up some of the green and brown algae, they work great! You can get 6 for your tank. The catch is to keep your plants healthy so they outcompete your algae. Do this after you add more hardy plants:
6 hours of lights
Dose fertilizers like Seachem Flourish and Excel to combat algae and strengthen plants
Get an Army of ottos. . .5-6 of them
Keep up with weekly 25-50% water changes!

Keep me updated and let me know if this works for you!

 

I wouldn't recommend otos. They need cooler waters than a betta and the tank is a bit small.


What are your parameters?
What is your light schedule?
How powerful are the lights?
Do you dose ferts?

 

Tank temp ideal for betta: 78ºF - 80ºF
Tank temp ideal for otto: 72ºF - 78ºF
They come together at 78ºF isn't that everyone´s tank temp? Really common temp for aquarium anyway.
As for the tank size. . . these are small fish, as long as they are given some creative hiding spots they will make themselves at home in a 5 gal. As your algae issue is corrected however they will require algae wafers to supplement the missing algae. If that is not a problem for you.

 

I also like the Otto plan but would you consider altering your hood to fit?

Snails would love that algae. I see other advantages to making the hood fit like reduced evaporation and preventing your betta fish from jumping out. Plus your heater will last longer, work less because the heat won’t dissipate as fast.

 

I don't think ottos are a good choice for me. I think the tank is far too small for anymore fish.

Params are 0,0,20
PH is 7.0
I used to dose with flourish Excel, but after having some issues with it I decided to stop using it. Now I'm not using anything but my pants are doing overall well besides the algae.
Lighting is usually 7-8 hours. I've cut it down to 5-6, even 3-4, but it doesn't help any. It's just insanity. I clean it spotless every week, but it's such a pain in the butt to only have the tank look nice for a day before BAM algae is back.

 

How often do you vacuum clean? 20 nitrates seems bit high for just one Betta in a 5 gallon with plants, it's possible there is excess debris in the substrate/filter that the BB is feeding on, creating extra nitrates, and that would help algae survive. Also since you said the change in lighting hasn't helped it would probably be another factor like that.

Removing any extra build up would help so possibly a few extra water changes or getting a smaller vacuum/ adjusting the flow of the tubing might help.

 

Even if I was to adapt my lid, which I don't want to do, there is no middle to it. It's basically just a rI'm and it has a cut out where the light hangs. Evaporation is guaranteed and there's no reason for me to try and fight it. I live in Pennsylvania near a river, it's constantly humid.

 

Also, would it be possible to turn your heater more diagonally so you could have a lid? Nerites are a pretty great tank mate

 

How many watts is your light? If your light isn't powerful enough, they can't use the ferts so it goes to the algae. Also, algae grows from continuous lighting. I would recommend a schedule where the lighting isn't always on. For example:
4 hours on
2 hours off
4 hours on
Wait for next day

 

I would try nerite snails as mentioned. they are great tank mates for bettas and love algae plus they are quite small so you could have 2 in a 5g. you could try amano shrimp but there is also the possibility of it escaping the tank like snails and is more likely to get attacked then a snail

 

How many watts is your light? If your light isn't powerful enough, they can't use the ferts so it goes to the algae. Also, algae grows from continuous lighting. I would recommend a schedule where the lighting isn't always on. For example:
4 hours on
2 hours off
4 hours on
Wait for next day

There are no ferts being dosed apparently, and that would probably be a hard schedule to keep long term. I would say most people keep their lights on 7-8 hours a day without a massive problem, and Anubias and java fern are plants that can do fine in lower lighting so I would say there is an underlying issue that needs to be addressed.
Lighting could be a factor but it was said the plants were initially doing well.

How long were the plants doing well before the algae blooms started?

 

I have a spec 5, and I would completely agree that you should not add any more fish. I love nertite snails and amanos, but you would need to make a new lid for a spec to keep either in there. I've toyed with the idea for mine, but I've never gotten as far as actually buying glass or plexiglass to try building one. I've seen other people pull them off nicely, though.

One idea I will throw out is that your substrate might be contributing to the problem a little. White sand reflects light where a darker sand would absorb it. You might need to reduce your photo-period to compensate for that a little?

 

I'll try the on and off lighting and see what that does for me. I can't turn my heater sideways because unforuntaley the very top of it isn't submersible, and my tank needs filled almost to the very top to cover the outflow. I've always had algae, its never been a huge issue because my other tank was deeper than it was wide, so it didn't get much algae growth where the plants were. My java fern doesn't have much algae, only the hair algae that gets knocked and moved around by my fish. Flourish Excel did keep my algae at bay, but my previous betta fish was weak and I believe it didn't help him too much, even at half doses. It's just gotten annoying. My java fern has grown new plants so I'm not worried about that one, it's the anubias.

 

You’re not going to like this idea but if it was me I would sarnwrap the top of the tank and get a couple of snails, 2 nerites or one mystery.

Leave a flap to easily remove for feeding.

Just my $.02

 

There are no ferts being dosed apparently, and that would probably be a hard schedule to keep long term. I would say most people keep their lights on 7-8 hours a day without a massive problem, and Anubias and java fern are plants that can do fine in lower lighting so I would say there is an underlying issue that needs to be addressed.
Lighting could be a factor but it was said the plants were initially doing well.

How long were the plants doing well before the algae blooms started?

There are no ferts being dosed apparently, and that would probably be a hard schedule to keep long term. I would say most people keep their lights on 7-8 hours a day without a massive problem, and Anubias and java fern are plants that can do fine in lower lighting so I would say there is an underlying issue that needs to be addressed.
Lighting could be a factor but it was said the plants were initially doing well.

How long were the plants doing well before the algae blooms started?

I agree. At one point or antother, plant will always get to a "weak" stage of their lives, and this is where algae takes over. Without the combination of a form of fert and good lighting for at least 6 hr, algae I slikely to take an upper hand and turn the tables.

You’re not going to like this idea but if it was me I would sarnwrap the top of the tank and get a couple of snails, 2 nerites or one mystery.

Leave a flap to easily remove for feeding.

Just my $.02

That's an interesting idea!

 

I would do your regular cleaning and water change and then do a blackout period. For a couple days at least. From then on I would greatly reduce the lighting schedule.

When I first started having algae issues in my 3 gallon (anubias were the only plant). I turned the lights off completely. It was in a room that receives decent sunlight during the day. But not direct sunlight. That's it that's all the light the anubias got for months. And voila no more algae. Anubias were just fine.

They don't need much light but the algae loves it and that nitrate so it takes advantage of it. Or you can do like someone else suggested and add some more plants, perhaps some fast growing floater plants that you can always toss later. (Avoid duckweed tho it's a pain)

 

WH

I would do your regular cleaning and water change and then do a blackout period. For a couple days at least. From then on I would greatly reduce the lighting schedule.

When I first started having algae issues in my 3 gallon (anubias were the only plant). I turned the lights off completely. It was in a room that receives decent sunlight during the day. But not direct sunlight. That's it that's all the light the anubias got for months. And voila no more algae. Anubias were just fine.

They don't need much light but the algae loves it and that nitrate so it takes advantage of it. Or you can do like someone else suggested and add some more plants, perhaps some fast growing floater plants that you can always toss later. (Avoid duckweed tho it's a pain)

Why is duckweed a pain? never kept it so idk

 

WH

Why is duckweed a pain? never kept it so idk

because it grows really quickly and spreads once it is established so you need to constantly remove some

 

because it grows really quickly and spreads once it is established so you need to constantly remove some

But couldnt you just net some up while doing a water change? because you have to net up dead leaves in tank and stuff anyway.. .

 

But couldnt you just net some up while doing a water change? because you have to net up dead leaves in tank and stuff anyway.. .

you could its just a lot of people find them hard to control because of how quickly they spread and grow. some people have to net some up more then once a week

 

WH

Why is duckweed a pain? never kept it so idk

Because it is a tiny plant that multiplies like gremlins. It spreads fast across the surface of the water. If left alone, it will block light in a such a way that very little light will reach the plants below, and it can disrupt surface agitation IE lowers the level of oxygen in the water. Filter outtakes can push it down into the tank and it can get stuck literally anywhere and everywhere. You have to be careful with disposal of it because it IS an invasive plant.

You can net it and then spend awhile getting it out of the net. Cup works better honestly. Once you've decided that duckweed really was a BAD idea, you could potentially spend hours cleaning it out of the tank. And if you miss just one tiny plant it will come back to haunt you. Possibly even weeks later when you could swear the battle was already won. O_O That is how it is a pain.

 

I would dose ferts. I use Thrive and that works well. I also used excel with bad results at half dose.

 

Because it is a tiny plant that multiplies like gremlins. It spreads fast across the surface of the water. If left alone, it will block light in a such a way that very little light will reach the plants below, and it can disrupt surface agitation IE lowers the level of oxygen in the water. Filter outtakes can push it down into the tank and it can get stuck literally anywhere and everywhere. You have to be careful with disposal of it because it IS an invasive plant.

You can net it and then spend awhile getting it out of the net. Cup works better honestly. Once you've decided that duckweed really was a BAD idea, you could potentially spend hours cleaning it out of the tank. And if you miss just one tiny plant it will come back to haunt you. Possibly even weeks later when you could swear the battle was already won. O_O That is how it is a pain.

I've heard several hobbyists refer to duckweed as 'Aquarium Herpes', which I think sums it up pretty well. It is great for making separate little nitrate reduction systems for people with high nitrates in their tap water, or for keeping goldfish fed and entertained. Outside of that, there are considerably easier to control floating plants that I'll stick with.

 

I'm going to try tropica plant growth fertilizer because I conveniently watched a Rachel O'Leary video that she uploaded today on her Fluval Spec and she said it helped with her algae issues. Flourish Excel kept it away great, but I'm 80% sure it aided it killing my fish. I just cleaned the entire tank down and I'm going to take pictures every day to see how quickly it takes to grow back.