wet/dry necessary w chaeto?

1971roadrunner

Well Known
Member
Messages
1,083
Reaction score
2
Location
Greenwich Village, NYC
Experience
More than 10 years
A few weeks ago I added a 10 gallon chaeto refugium to my 150 gallon fowlr system and it's working out great with better than expected results, but this leads me to my next dilemma. Since I have an excellent skimmer in addition to the fuge, is my wet/dry compartment really necessary. I have it filled with bioballs but would rather maybe use that as a DSB/LR compartment or some more chaeto-who knows? I'm not planning on making changes any time soon, but do want to get in some research/meantime so as to be ready when and if the time comes. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.Thank you.
 

Mike

Moderator
Moderator
Member
Messages
6,971
Reaction score
2,272
Location
USA
Experience
More than 10 years
I would ditch the wet/dry filter - the problem is that they are too good at what they do and can become nitrate factories if not maintained often. I would put in live rock or a deep sand bed like you are thinking to help with denitrification.

Are you using the "Add to post" link to add the ? There shouldn't be a size restriction on those s. What are the dimensions of the and the size of it?
 
  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
  • #4
OP
1971roadrunner

1971roadrunner

Well Known
Member
Messages
1,083
Reaction score
2
Location
Greenwich Village, NYC
Experience
More than 10 years
that was too easy-thanks mike.



* I took out the LR in there to make room for growth and some tumbling.
 
  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
  • #5
OP
1971roadrunner

1971roadrunner

Well Known
Member
Messages
1,083
Reaction score
2
Location
Greenwich Village, NYC
Experience
More than 10 years
I could easily flood the wet/dry compartment, (but do some testing and waiting to see for a month), then make the change, does this sound right?
 

ryanr

Moderator
Moderator
Member
Messages
11,306
Reaction score
1,269
Location
Melbourne, Vic
Experience
More than 10 years
I agree with Mike.

I'd just add, that a DSB should be around 6" deep for effective de-nitrification. And they take ages to establish, and once established, can become a 'toxic sand bed' in the sense that disrupting them can release all the nitrates consumed by the DSB. You just need to be a little careful when doing maintenance etc.
 
  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
  • #7
OP
1971roadrunner

1971roadrunner

Well Known
Member
Messages
1,083
Reaction score
2
Location
Greenwich Village, NYC
Experience
More than 10 years
FYI-I went originally with the 10 gallon on the left, (now set up) as seen above, but now replacing with the 20 gallon seen on the right.

*go big or go home!
 

Orion5

Well Known
Member
Messages
924
Reaction score
26
Location
Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Experience
More than 10 years
I'm way out of my league here, but I knew of a store in Florida that maintained zero-nitrates using caulerpa. Couldn't the same thing be achieved with enough chaeto?
 
  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
  • #9
OP
1971roadrunner

1971roadrunner

Well Known
Member
Messages
1,083
Reaction score
2
Location
Greenwich Village, NYC
Experience
More than 10 years
Hey Orion5, according to what I've read it's a yes for the chaeto. The problem with caulerpa is that it's far more likely to go sexual, (spreading to and causing havoc in the display tank) and grows so fast that it could disrupt the surroundings and even get inside and destroy power heads and the like if not watched very closely.
 
  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
  • #10
OP
1971roadrunner

1971roadrunner

Well Known
Member
Messages
1,083
Reaction score
2
Location
Greenwich Village, NYC
Experience
More than 10 years
@ Mike & ryanr. If I may ask, what kind of bed's are you using in your DT's. I have #1 & 3 aragonite bedding which I keep clean but I'm reading that my bed could be causing quite a bit of nitrates compared to a shallow sand bed.
 

ryanr

Moderator
Moderator
Member
Messages
11,306
Reaction score
1,269
Location
Melbourne, Vic
Experience
More than 10 years
Hi,
I run a shallow sand bed, about 1". I used the CaribSea Aragonite ()

Typically, a DSB would be no less than 4", but more typically around 6" deep.
 
  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
  • #12
OP
1971roadrunner

1971roadrunner

Well Known
Member
Messages
1,083
Reaction score
2
Location
Greenwich Village, NYC
Experience
More than 10 years
I was thinking of a 6" DSB in the proflex 4 sump and a lot of chaeto in a 20g, refug.,(I have the 10g. now) as a plan. I was reading a 1" sand bed in my DT would be far greater in reducing trates compared to my 2" # 3 aragonite bed. Should I switch out my bed in favor of the 1" sand bed is what I would like to ask if I may? Thanks.
 

ryanr

Moderator
Moderator
Member
Messages
11,306
Reaction score
1,269
Location
Melbourne, Vic
Experience
More than 10 years
Hi,
To be honest, I can't really remember much about DSB setups, other than I decided against one.

I'd stick to shallow sand beds in the display. Primarily because you don't want your nitrate-laden sand-bed being stirred up and releasing nitrates. Especially if you have or plan on stocking sand-burrowing species. IIRC, most will do ok in 2-3" sandbeds.

For nitrate removal, I decided to go with carbon-dosing (bio-pellets). I got a lot of advice to stay away from DSBs now that technology has come along, and is more predictable. I hope that makes sense....
 
  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
  • #14
OP
1971roadrunner

1971roadrunner

Well Known
Member
Messages
1,083
Reaction score
2
Location
Greenwich Village, NYC
Experience
More than 10 years
Yea, keep hearing that. DSB's seem interesting and thought since its in a refug., not the DT, it would be kept away from any disturbance and very cool to learn about and run. As with anything there are differing opinions . I see that these bio-pellet reactors have been around long enough to make me comfortable and easy enough to figure out and maintain. I see people using different types, (I currently have a BRS dual) but will add another for this and seem to like the Super Reef Octopus BR110 rated for 250g. One last ? for now , what type of reactor/media do you suggest? Thanks for the help.

* I do want to keep a large chaeto refug. for back up removal, extra space/water volume and pod reproduction. My Mandarin are nice and plump.
 

ryanr

Moderator
Moderator
Member
Messages
11,306
Reaction score
1,269
Location
Melbourne, Vic
Experience
More than 10 years
Hi,
Don't get me wrong, if you still want to do DSB, go for it.

Bio pellets are simple to maintain - I use the same setup as Mike Biopellet Aquarium Filter, using NP-reducing Biopellets ( )

Though, I only have one reactor running. Typically bio-pellets reactors need greater pump rates to keep the pellets tumbling properly..

Too, I mod'd my reactor to get greater tumbling:
 
  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
  • #16
OP
1971roadrunner

1971roadrunner

Well Known
Member
Messages
1,083
Reaction score
2
Location
Greenwich Village, NYC
Experience
More than 10 years
The bio-pellet reactors got my attention, but I see that the initial set up is crucial. I mean with dosing with good strains of BB like found in zeobak supplement, many WC's prior to installation to lower trates as to prevent a quick swing, turning down/off the GFO rector I have then slowly turn it back up later etc...It will take some negotiating but think I'll be fine. I like that I can set the unit up with flow controls so as to keep my chaeto farming going strong. I think I'll go this route and keep you posted though some day I would like to just go with algae in the form of an added scrubber or back to a DSB when I learn more about them. Thanks and any other input from anyone would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

* i'm going to keep my bedding the way it is now but remove the wet/dry like mike suggested. you guys are great!
 
  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
  • #17
OP
1971roadrunner

1971roadrunner

Well Known
Member
Messages
1,083
Reaction score
2
Location
Greenwich Village, NYC
Experience
More than 10 years
20g chaeto refugium,



I thought I'd add an update. Upped the size of the chaeto refugium from 10 gallon to 20 gallon with a better design/flow and removed everything from it but the algae. I may add some aragonite bedding later, but for now it's spinning with the help of a bubbler to the right and the better flow angle from the left. With the SLOW spin the entire ball is receiving plenty of light at all times but does not affect the pods from multiplying. As with the 10 gallon it should continue to grow very quickly and can't wait till I get to harvest it.

*btw-i'm not doing any water changes or using my PO4 reactor to see how much nitrate/PO4 the algae can extract on it's own for now. I'll be monitoring this closely.
 

New Threads

Similar Threads

Follow FishLore!

FishLore on Social Media

Online statistics

Members online
223
Guests online
3,383
Total visitors
3,606

Aquarium Photo Contests

Aquarium Calculator

Top Bottom