Water Reading Always .25 Ammonia.

Wraithen

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Kyleena696 said:
I noticed you said you have plants that have bits and pieces falling off. Is it possible you have an ammonia reading from decaying plant matter that isn't being removed?
There's not really a reason at this point that the bb couldn't handle the decay of plant matter. I really think it's a bound nitrogen issue. It does happen sometimes. Api wont test the difference and it could be a bound ammonia that the bb cant convert. I'd try not using prime and let the tank sit for 2 to 3 days and then retest.
 

Rojer Ramjet

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Hunter1 said:
Agreed!

I’ve quit testing for ammonia in all of my tanks because of bright yellow repeatedly. Just test for nitrates.

But might test all6 tomorrow just for kicks. Gotta use it before it expires.
I rarely test anything on my tanks; I do the same thing, the same way, every time, so I only bust out the Red Sea test kits when something looks off.
 

Redshark1

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All five of my aquaria show 0.25 ppm for total ammonia.

They always have, for 24 years.

My test kit will show zero ammonia for my water butt (rainwater).

It is not likely to have a true zero ammonia in an aquarium because live fish produce it 24/7 and the test will pick it up while it is on the way to the filter.

0.25 ppm total ammonia at my normal pH and temperature gives 0.0002 ppm of free ammonia.

The level that LFS have to achieve to keep their licence in my country is 0.002 free ammonia.

So my free ammonia is a tenth of that limit.

I think you don't need to worry about 0.25 ppm total ammonia.
 
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leannajayde

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Hai! I've been reading everyone's replies just haven't had time to reply to everyone but I SOO appreciate the help.
Today makes day two of no wc which means no prime so ill test tonight and see what I get.
Could it be a bio load issue or would the bb be taking care of that at this point?
I know my tank is overstocked at 7 guppies, three cory cats, one lace cat and a mystery snail so maybe the bb has never learned how to cope yet?
Idk what im actually talking about but maybe??
 

Redshark1

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In my experience the API test is very reliable.

If your tap is zero ammonia that means that you put in all the ammonia through the food and anything else you put in the aquarium.

Its worth knowing that just to maintain its existing body-weight a Neon Tetra only needs half a flake per day and a Goldfish needs only four and a half flakes per day.

Both food the fish eat and uneaten food goes to produce ammonia.

But if I read you right you have 0.25 ppm Total Ammonia and 20 ppm nitrate. I think that is perfect. What is there to worry about?
 
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leannajayde

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Redshark1 said:
If your tap is zero ammonia that means that you put in all the ammonia through the food you put in the aquarium.

Its worth knowing that just to maintain its existing body-weight a Neon Tetra only needs half a flake per day and a Goldfish needs only four and a half flakes per day.

Both food the fish eat and uneaten food goes to produce ammonia too.

But if I read you right you have 0.25 ppm Total Ammonia and 20 ppm nitrate. I think that is perfect. What is there to worry about?
The only way ammonia is coming in through too much food is when I feed my cory cats. I have to wait until way after lights out, throw in a few half of pellets and walk away, without that im not sure they eat because my guppies are selfish monsters, lol!

I just tested my ammonia again and its been 2 days since wc or prime and its still .25, double checked my tap and its still 0.
I tried taking pics but they look exactly the same, my camera is ****.

And im worried because I've been told any amount of ammonia is bad, and that to have a cycled tank it needs to be 0 everything except nitrate and low on that.
 

Wraithen

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Free ammonia is bad.

Your cories would get food easier if you fed them a sinking bottom feeder food. I used hikari carnivore and they went nuts for it. Hikari shrimp worked as well. Fluval bug bites for bottom feeders in the granules can worked easily also. Flakes are not a great option for them. They deserve better than flake food and will readily accept any meat food that makes it to the bottom. Dissolve a quarter cube of hikari bio pure bloodworms in a small glass of tank water and dump it in. Cories swam to the top for those for me.
 
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leannajayde

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Wraithen said:
Free ammonia is bad.

Your cories would get food easier if you fed them a sinking bottom feeder food. I used hikari carnivore and they went nuts for it. Hikari shrimp worked as well. Fluval bug bites for bottom feeders in the granules can worked easily also. Flakes are not a great option for them. They deserve better than flake food and will readily accept any meat food that makes it to the bottom. Dissolve a quarter cube of hikari bio pure bloodworms in a small glass of tank water and dump it in. Cories swam to the top for those for me.
Ill try the worms but they don't eat flake food. I feed them sinking food but the guppies go for that too and end up carrying it away.
Sometimes with wafers I have to take a long chop stick and physically hold it down to the bottom so my catfish can get some before the guppies start swarming.
I'm trying to rehome my female guppies so ill only have 3 males and it'll be easier to feed my cats.
 

Wraithen

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leannajayde said:
Ill try the worms but they don't eat flake food. I feed them sinking food but the guppies go for that too and end up carrying it away.
Sometimes with wafers I have to take a long chop stick and physically hold it down to the bottom so my catfish can get some before the guppies start swarming.
I'm trying to rehome my female guppies so ill only have 3 males and it'll be easier to feed my cats.
The sinking carnivore wafers take a bit to soften and even then I doubt your guppies will get a chance to eat more than a quarter before dropping it to the floor.

The bloodworms will go everywhere so everyone gets to eat.
 

Redshark1

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You are being worried unnecessarily.

The advice that you should have zero ammonia, zero nitrite and low nitrate is false advice and similar to other advice such as the 1 inch per gallon rule and the advice that fish will grow to match the size of their aquarium. Untrue and outdated.

It is not possible for ammonia to be zero if live fish are present because fish produce ammonia 24/7!

Google "ammonia 0.25" and you will find many many people in the same boat.

You are doing a good job. Don't worry any more. Enjoy your aquarium.
 

Wraithen

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Redshark1 said:
You are being worried unnecessarily.

The advice that you should have zero ammonia, zero nitrite and low nitrate is false advice and similar to other advice such as the 1 inch per gallon rule and the advice that fish will grow to match the size of their aquarium. Untrue and outdated.

It is not possible for ammonia to be zero if live fish are present because fish produce ammonia 24/7!

Google "ammonia 0.25" and you will find many many people in the same boat.

You are doing a good job. Don't worry any more. Enjoy your aquarium.
I politely disagree. .25 ammonia at higher ph is down right lethal. However, (where I highly agree with your conclusion but not your reasoning behind it,) the api test will show nitrogen compounds that are nothing to worry about. A fully cycled tank that still shows hanging trace amounts of ammonia is generally not free ammonia, nor harmful in the least.
 
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leannajayde

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Wraithen said:
I politely disagree. .25 ammonia at higher ph is down right lethal. However, (where I highly agree with your conclusion but not your reasoning behind it,) the api test will show nitrogen compounds that are nothing to worry about. A fully cycled tank that still shows hanging trace amounts of ammonia is generally not free ammonia, nor harmful in the least.
Last I checked with my PH it was dark dark blue on the normal ph test and I honestly couldn't find the color it matched with on the high PH test. Maybe 7.4-8.0? I'll check again when I get home.
I didn't know the correlation between high PH and .25 ammonia making it lethal or I would of taken my PH test more seriously (still learning new things everyday! Lol).
If it is between 7.4 and 8.0 will that be a lethal number with my .25 ammonia(yes ammonia still showing .25)? Or are you referring to PH numbers as high as 8.4 or 8.8?
 

Wraithen

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I'd have to consult with Dr. Google to know for sure. Regardless, I'm pretty sure you are getting a false positive with the api test.
 
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leannajayde

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Wraithen said:
I'd have to consult with Dr. Google to know for sure. Regardless, I'm pretty sure you are getting a false positive with the api test.
Why is it giving me false positive on my tank and not my tap though?
Oh, im getting a new tank btw, noticed what could be a leak and im not taking any chances given this tank is over 10 years old.
It'll be the same size tank but different substrate and im only transferring filters, plants and my lace cats favorite tiny hide (going to get this beautiful huge fake drift wood piece, new) so hopefully any issues my tank could still be having from the previous reptilian residents will be gone.
 

Wraithen

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A false positive could be a bound ammonia from treating your water, it could be weird things from your reptile tank as well.

No offense, but I'm glad it seems to be a small leak. I HATE your current tank lol.
 
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leannajayde

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Wraithen said:
A false positive could be a bound ammonia from treating your water, it could be weird things from your reptile tank as well.

No offense, but I'm glad it seems to be a small leak. I HATE your current tank lol.
LOL!! Listen, no offense taken, I'm GLAD to be getting rid of it.
Its going to be a pain transferring every thing, and im so scared my cycle will crash and ill have to start all over but at least ill no longer have to deal with crazy things that no beginner should ever have to go through, EVER!
Ill be getting it this Tuesday, hopefully my ammonia will start showing 0 afterwards, false positive or no I still don't like it. I wanna see yellow!! Haha!
 

Redshark1

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As I clearly stated in post 23 my advice was for normal pH and temperature.

I don't believe high pH was mentioned before this so it would not be reasonable to disagree with me on this basis.

But anyway 0.25 Total Ammonia is not normally toxic even at pH 8.0 (according to the information table previously given out by CindL on this forum).

The table gives the level at which Total Ammonia starts to become toxic for the current pH and temperature.


Total Ammonia Toxicity.jpg
 

Wraithen

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Redshark1 said:
As I clearly stated in post 23 my advice was for normal pH and temperature.

I don't believe high pH was mentioned before this so it would not be reasonable to disagree with me on this basis.

But anyway 0.25 Total Ammonia is not normally toxic even at pH 8.0 (according to the information table previously given out by CindL on this forum).

The table gives the level at which Total Ammonia starts to become toxic for the current pH and temperature.


Total Ammonia Toxicity.jpg
It's not uncommon for tanks to be above 8.0. The main disagreement though is that it likely isnt free ammonia.
 

danhutchins

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Where are you getting your info? I test my water with master test kit and I am at 0 ammonia every time I test. Who ever said the fish only grow to the size of the tank should not give advice. And the 1 inch per gallon is 1 inch of adult fish and is only a guideline. There are other factors. So before claiming everything is false why not get real advice?
 
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leannajayde

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danhutchins said:
Where are you getting your info? I test my water with master test kit and I am at 0 ammonia every time I test. Who ever said the fish only grow to the size of the tank should not give advice. And the 1 inch per gallon is 1 inch of adult fish and is only a guideline. There are other factors. So before claiming everything is false why not get real advice?
Respectfully, who are you talking to?

Btw guys as of yesterday, with almost 4 days of no wc my ammonia raised to .50. I'm NOT cycled and it seems the .25 was not a false positive.
Jesus its been TWO MONTHS. I really want this to be a direct result of it being a previous reptile tank and that when I switch tanks today I will stop having these problems.
When I pick up the tank im thinking of picking up another bottle or two of TSS+ and dosing the tank tomorrow just in case. Sound like a good plan?
 
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