Water parameters for planted tank?

Besides the normal water test like ammonia, PH, nitrites, and nitrates, what other water parameters are important to check for in planted tanks in order to give the plants good growth? Also, what should the ideal parameters be for those other test?

I am on well water. I dose with Flourish Comprehensive about twice a week and root tabs for the Amazon Swords. I do not use any CO2 at this time. I’m looking at trying a DIY setup soon. My plants are really not growing as well as I would like in my 55 gallon tank. I’ve been trying to figure out if I need to be testing my water for iron, gh/kh, or anything else to see if I need to do anything else. I appreciate any advice anyone has.

 

Knowing how to read plants deficiencies is more important than testing the water. When you know the signs it becomes easy to fix them.
Kh and gh as long as they are present are relatively unimportant. Lower levels of hardness are prefered by most plants but most can be grown in hard or soft water.
Planted tanks most difficult problem to diagnose is Co2 and when Co2 is lacking growth will stop. There will be no signs of deficiency it will just stop growing. I would guess with the amount of light you have you have co2 lacking.
I would start with DIY co2 and then wait to see what growth does. Give it a few weeks with regular dosing of the flourish (along with the co2) I bet you will see good results.

You may find once you add co2 that algae pops up as well. (If it hasnt already) I would bet green dust and spot algae pops up first. I say this because of the light you have. How high do you have it mounted?

 

It is helpful to know the hardness of your water if you are adding co2. It can help you avoid ph swings. Is your water hard at all? I don't feel a need to test for hardness because the water here is hard enough to prevent ph swings if I stay up on water changes. I wouldn't bother buying a test unless I thought my water was soft.

 

You may find once you add co2 that algae pops up as well. (If it hasnt already) I would bet green dust and spot algae pops up first. I say this because of the light you have. How high do you have it mounted?

I use the legs that came with my lights so I'd say they are 4 inches above the glass. I don't have any algae right now. My BNP takes care of that. I'm not sure I'd say I have very high light. I have a total of 96 watts for 1.7 wpg. They are T5 bulbs so I do know the wpg rule is somewhat different, but I'm not sure it's that high though.

It is helpful to know the hardness of your water if you are adding co2. It can help you avoid ph swings. Is your water hard at all? I don't feel a need to test for hardness because the water here is hard enough to prevent ph swings if I stay up on water changes. I wouldn't bother buying a test unless I thought my water was soft.

Yes I do have hard water. I don't know how hard it is though. My PH out of the tap is about 8.2. Last I checked my PH in my tank it was about 7.8 which my driftwood helped with that.

 

This chart may help decide for sure. (posted by hoppy at planted tank)


I would still look at co2 as your problem at this point. Once you have the co2 and lights set then you can work on the third part of the triangle which is the ferts. The Co2 will lower your ph a little as well.

 

I'm running nearly 3 wpg of t-5 light and I'm relatively certain its too much. Lights are expensive. I'd exhaust other options first before spending big money. If your PH is 8ish out of the tap you I wouldn't worry about big ph swings from co2 if you change water regularly. Just watch your fish.

 

As said above, hardness is the only other thing to know, just as it helps you read into many other situations.

But like Nate said, read the deficiencies will be better than wasting your money on test kits that test micro and nano measures of molecules!

Good luck!

 

I agree with everything said above. For me, when I switched to dry ferts, I did purchase a GH/KH, PO4 and Iron test kits. I have very soft water and have to add calcium and magnesium to stabilize my pH. Discovered I have enough PO4 in my tap to fuel every aquarium in the state! (5+ PPM). And, I used the Iron kit to determine how much CSM+B to dose.

While I chose to purchase the kits, once I knew how to read the deficiency signs, I am finding that I test much less.

Do what you feel most comfortable with. As you are dosing Comprehensive and have hard water, you probably do not need any additional test kits.

 

Thanks catsma! So you think just using comprehensive will be all I need then? I ordered some excel and flourish iron which should be here tomorrow. I thought I'd try it too. Just wasn't real sure if I should use the iron though. I figured the excel would only help, but what about the iron? Could it hurt anything?

Oh I decided to hold off on the DIY CO2 on the 55 gallon for now until I got more experience with it on my 10 gallon for now. Just going to try the excel out on it for now.

 

You are most welcome cletus.

Comprehensive includes a very small amount of iron if I'm not mistaken. Unless your plant leaves are turning yellow, then you probably do not need it.

I'd recommend starting with half dose Excel as you have anacharis. This is one of the plant types that can melt with Excel. Many have had great success with starting with a half dose and gradually increasing to full dose with little to no melt. Other plants that are affected are crypts and vals.