Water Changes and Why They're Necessary.

Hello! :;pumpkin I would like to start an informational thread for this forum! If it has already been created, please post the link. If not, here is my plan.

I will post several questions to get the ball rolling. I will also attempt to answer them. I will then take the replies of more experienced folks and organize them into the initial post. Instead of merging the different posts, They will simply be quoted, led by the name of the contributor.

Water Changes and Why They're Necessary.

Question 1: The instructions that came with my tank said to change the water monthly. I keep seeing posts online that say you must do it weekly. Which is correct?

OldeOne - I assume that the companies who manufacture the tanks either know nothing of fish care, or want you to throw your tank so far out of balance you have to buy their chemical treatments. I am under the general impression that a tank must have a 25% (give or take) water change weekly. This will change, depending on stocking level and filtration. This topic is touched upon in the other questions.

Question 2: I tested my water chemistry, and it is absolutely perfect! Do I still need to perform a water change?

OldeOne - Though I sure wish I could skip a water change, I think that it is a good habit to get into. A problem might surface mid-week that was still in its infancy when you last tested it. Plus, what harm could come of giving your fish fresh water to live in? Routine will get your fish accustomed to your presence.

skar - Water changes are too remove excess waste in the water column. That is why it may be more Dependant on size and stocking it is a good practice however. Peace

blazebo - The reason for water changes is not only to take out stuff (like nitrate), but to add stuff in (like miinerals). The nitrogen cycle consumes minerals and if one doesn't do water changes eventually one will have a ph crash.

Question 3: I do not have a gravel vacuum. Is it okay to just scoop out water and replace it with a fresh supply?

OldeOne - Bits of uneaten fish food and poo will accumulate in the substrate. You should really clean it. When that stuff rots, it will throw your chemistry out of whack. The general theory I have read is that you should clean 30% of the substrate, once a week. Clean different portions of the substrate each time.

Lucy - I've never had an issue vacuuming my whole tank at once. In newly established tank this may be advised but once the cycle in established, it really should be an issue.

Question 4: Okay, so I have a gravel vacuum, but I also have a heavily planted tank. Do I need to clean out the substrate as often as with an unplanted tank?

OldeOne - (answer changed in light of more experienced folks) See junebug's entry, below. I will throw in that a gravel vac is still good to have in a planted tank for 2 reasons. 1 - siphons are handy for water changes, even if you don't use them to clean the substrate. 2 - The wider nozzle and screen inside will help keep your fish from getting sucked through the hose. Therefore, even if you don't use it to clean the substrate, a gravel vac is a good tool to have.

junebug - In a truly heavily planted tank, gravel vacs generally should not occur. This defeats the purpose of having plants in the tank. You want the fish waste to decompose in the gravel, to replenish nutrients in the substrate. You can always substitute with ferts and root tabs, but IMO this is too much work for a tank that's supposed to be easy (the whole point of a planted tank is to use the plants as a natural filter).

Question 5: There are a lot of water treatment products on the market. Tetra Safe Start. Tetra Aqua Safe (dechlorinator). Tetra Easy Balance (pH regulator which claims to reduce the need for frequent water changes by reducing nitrates). Which do I really need to use, and why? Are there any unwritten tips and techniques for using these products?

OldeOne - Tetra Aqua Safe (or any other brand of aquarium dechlorinator) is absolutely indispensable for the care of your tank. Chlorine and chloramine will kill your fish. Yes. They WILL die if you use straight tap water.

Lucy - Dechlorinators are not "absolutely indispensable" (see my next sentence before any gasps lol) Many people who are on well water do not use dechlorinators. They should, however, be aware of what is in their well water and decide for themselves.

OldeOne - Tetra Safe Start is liquid bacteria, the same as you'd find in a properly established aquarium. It is another indispensable tool in the care of your fish. Use it when setting up your tank for the first time. Use a maintenance dose 24 hours after a water change. It is great stuff. (answer changed in light of more experienced folks) - In new tanks and with newbie fish keepers, this is an indispensable tool. :3 In older tanks with experienced people, it is not needed.

Lucy - Although TSS can be used after every water change, in a properly cycled tank bacterial additives usually aren't needed.

skar - Tetra safe start is not necessary IMO, even for maintenance. If you have an established aquarium you are wasting money adding it every water change.

OldeOne - Tetra Easy Balance (pH regulator and nitrate/ammonia neutralizer) is NOT a necessary product. First of all, neutralizing ammonia will kill your cycle. If you use it once, you will be forced to use it, forever. The natural balance of your tank can be established without such a silly product. The pH stabilizing qualities of the product are also unnecessary. Natural products will do the same job, and safely. Driftwood and certain types of rocks will alter the pH in a tank on their own. I once used TEB, and had to deal with a really terrible bacterial bloom within 2 hours.

Question 6: Can performing weekly water changes ruin my cycle?

OldeOne - This is something I need help with. So far, I've learned that if you rinse your filter media in the old tank water, you should be fine. (..as opposed to rinsing in tap water, which will kill your beneficial bacteria.) However, since TSS cannot be used within 24 hours of a change because the dechlorinating chemicals can have a negative effect then causes me to wonder if they'll have an effect on the beneficial bacteria already established in the tank.

Lucy - TSS can be used within 24 hours of a basic dechlorinator. It's water conditioners that removes chloramines and detox's or removes ammonia that would effect TSS.

Question 7: Elaborating on Question 5, which is the best dechlorinator on the market and why?

OldeOne - I use Tetra Aqua Safe. I know nothing of other brands. It didn't instantly kill my fish, so it's.. good....?

Rivieraneo - There are chemical products, filter media and plants that can assist with the removal of nitrate, though one must not forget other factors in the water such as total dissolved solids or total suspended solids which are removed during water changes that can also cause issues in the aquarium. In addition to TDS and TSS, decomposing organics along with fish waste can also cause water quality issues as they can act as reducers and lower the reddox or oxidizing potential of water in the aquarium and waters ability to hold oxygen.

Lucy - Something to remember.....with fish keeping it's often not one size fits all.

 

Allot of these questions are Dependant on stocking level and aquarium size IMO.
Also I use prime not tetra aqua safe but as long as it's a binding agent I don't think it matters. Tetra safe start is not necessary IMO, even for maintenance. If you have an established aquarium you are wasting money adding it every water change. Water changes are too remove excess waste in the water column. That is why it may be more Dependant on size and stocking it is a good practice however. Peace

 

Just some thoughts (IMO and IME)

#1
Although TSS can be used after every water change, in a properly cycled tank bacterial additives usually aren't needed.

#2. Water changes are needed to remove nitrates (then end product of the nitrogen cycle), replenish oxygen and nutrients that the fish need.

#2
Just thought I'd mention Old Tank Syndrome.
While water changes are very healthy for fish if you've adopted some that were kept in a poor environment for some time they have adapted to that.
Too large of a water change or plopping them in a tank of clean water could easily shock and even kill them.

#3
I've never had an issue vacuuming my whole tank at once.
In newly established tank this may be advised but once the cycle in established, it really shouldn't be an issue.

#4
Never had a heavily planted tank so I cannot comment on anything written above

#5
Dechlorinators are not "absolutely indispensable" (see my next sentence before any gasps lol)
Many people who are on well water do not use dechlorinators. They should, however, be aware of what is in their well water and decide for themselves.

Of course, if you use a water company, then, yes, a water conditioner is necessary.

#5
See my thoughts re: #1 about Using TSS with every water change.

#6
Water changes shouldn't effect the cycle in an established tank. While some bacteria may live in the water column most of it is growing on porous surfaces (filter media) as well as some on decorations and on the substrate.

#6
TSS can be used within 24 hours of a basic dechlorinator.
It's water conditioners that removes chloramines and detox's or removes ammonia that would effect TSS.

Something to remember.....with fish keeping it's often not one size fits all.

 

With a few tweaks, I think it's good information to have up. I enjoy seeing the stickys around the forum, always learn something new.

 

Great topic! Thank you!
Can I use the topic to ask something related to it?
I usually prepare my water for the WC in my tank in advance, usually the water is sitting for about 7 days before I proceed with the water change. What I do is I put the dechlorinator in the bucket with the water and then I put an airstone in the bucket for about 5 min. After that I leave the water there for about 7 days before changing the water in my tank. Is that a safe procedure? Having in mind that you can not add tss 24hrs after a water change because the chemicals would kill the bacteria I believe this is a safe procedure. Am I right?

 

Great topic! Thank you!
Can I use the topic to ask something related to it?
I usually prepare my water for the WC in my tank in advance, usually the water is sitting for about 7 days before I proceed with the water change. What I do is I put the dechlorinator in the bucket with the water and then I put an airstone in the bucket for about 5 min. After that I leave the water there for about 7 days before changing the water in my tank. Is that a safe procedure? Having in mind that you can not add tss 24hrs after a water change because the chemicals would kill the bacteria I believe this is a safe procedure. Am I right?

It would be a good idea to start a new thread with a title that reflects your individual question.

This way other members will see it and be able to help.

Again though....a basic dechlorinator that removes chlorine and heavy metals will not effect TSS.
It's only water conditioners that remove chloramine, and ammonia.

IMO, it's not necessary to leave water sitting for days before adding it to the tank although some people do.
(a new thread will hopefully get the attention of the members who do and can elaborate on that)

 

@, I wish I had your patience and room! That sounds like a wonderful idea! <3 Lucy is right in that a separate thread will gain more attention. Personally, I do not mind you asking this here. You are obviously worried, and the more threads you have cast out, the more bites you will get. OMG, if I don't stop with these awful fishing jokes, I am going to knock mySelf out.

 

Thanks guys I just wanted to make sure it is safe to let water sit for 7 days or more. I am gonna create a new topic with the same question so other people can see it. Thanks again!

------------------------------------
Edit by Lucy:
Here's a link to the new thread:

 

#4 - In a truly heavily planted tank, gravel vacs generally should not occur. This defeats the purpose of having plants in the tank. You want the fish waste to decompose in the gravel, to replenish nutrients in the substrate. You can always substitute with ferts and root tabs, but IMO this is too much work for a tank that's supposed to be easy (the whole point of a planted tank is to use the plants as a natural filter).

#5 - there is no reason that neutralizing or removing nitrates would interrupt your cycle. Removing nitrates is what you do when you change water, which is obviously a good thing. Just thought I'd point that out, while the product likely does not do that and is not a substitute for water changes.

In a heavily planted tank, weekly water changes aren't even always necessary. Of course this is dependent on tank stock, water quality, etc, but many with heavily planted tanks only do a water change every few months and top off with RO or DI water in between.

Carvalhop Lucy - whether you age your water depends largely on your water. If you can easily aerate your water as you add it to the tank, aging is good, but not necessary. It also depends on the amount of gasses in your tap - mine has tons of gasses so I either have to add new water somewhere it will be aerated to release the gasses, or age my water for several days before adding it to my tank. I usually age my tap water as it simply leaves me more flexibility in my maintenance schedule.

 

Lots of good info here . Excellant reading and ideas. Thanks

 

Concerning #2 - The reason for water changes is not only to take out stuff (like nitrate), but to add stuff in (like miinerals). The nitrogen cycle consumes minerals and if one doesn't do water changes eventually one will have a ph crash.

Concerning #5 - No reason to add TSS because of a water change, just a waste of money.

 

Weekly water changes (+ maintenance) is a good start for a beginner. I can tell you that in a healthy planted tank, it's not always necessary to do weekly water changes, but I still recommend doing maintenance at least once every couple of weeks. It's something you get a feel for over time.

 

Q1 - 6 - Fish health is dependent on water quality. Every aquarium is different along with everyone water source and for this reason, advice given on any forum, website, book, product label, or informational pamphlet should be taken and applied to the individual keepers situation carefully with all considered. During start up cycling or minI cycles, more frequent water changes are needed to manage tank contaminants in the water, as the aquarium enviroment matures and bacteria colonies grow, the focus of water changes usually changes to manage the end result of the nitrogen cycle to remove nitrate.

There are chemical products, filter media and plants that can assist with the removal of nitrate, though one must not forget other factors in the water such as total dissolved solids or total suspended solids which are removed during water changes that can also cause issues in the aquarium. In addition to TDS and TSS, decomposing organics along with fish waste can also cause water quality issues as they can act as reducers and lower the reddox or oxidizing potential of water in the aquarium and waters ability to hold oxygen.

A lot of this is explained in Fishlore's Free Freshwater e-book:

https://www.fishlore.com/freshwater-aquarium-book.htm

I highly recommend all that haven't read it to download it and read through it thoroughly. Best of luck.

 

Just posting as a bookmark. Everything before this post has been read and selectively integrated. At least I think so. My eyes are tired. >.>

 

Added New Question to the Master List!

 

#7 is subjective and has been discussed several times on the forum as have the other questions.

I'm not sure what the purpose of this thread is.

 

The purpose of this thread is to present common questions and answers all in one location to newcomers. When I first joined, I could not find this particular information in one place. That is all. Thanks.

 

The purpose of this thread is to present common questions and answers all in one location to newcomers. When I first joined, I could not find this particular information in one place. That is all. Thanks.

This:

A lot of this is explained in Fishlore's Free Freshwater e-book:

https://www.fishlore.com/freshwater-aquarium-book.htm

I highly recommend all that haven't read it to download it and read through it thoroughly. Best of luck.

Also making use of the search feature along with a plethora of sickies (particularly this one at the top of the beginners section READ FIRST: Freshwater Beginner Important Topics) and articles that are available through out the forum.

And from the home page:
Beginners

Sticky at the top of the sub foum:
Different Water Conditoners And What They Do

 

The search bar rarely turns up the information I seek, if it works at all. Using Google sometimes leads me back here. I did check out the book. I did use the search engine. I did read stickies. This information was not all in one place, though. That is why I created this thread.

I seem to have offended you by trying to gather information, which is odd, after you have already contributed to the thread. I am sorry. If you choose to delete it, please give me 24 hours to copy the information to my computer. My phone is incapable of such a task.

Sent from my Z796C using Fish Lore Aquarium Fish Forum mobile app

 

I am not offended and don't plan on deleting the thread.

Most of the information can be found in one place (the book and beginner stickies)
Other information is broken down into the sub forums for members and guests who have questions about one particular topic.

My contribution was to correct some misinformation.

 

#1: The instructions that came with your tank assume the most very basic level of fishkeeper. Those same instructions also don't say anything about testing your water parameters. Let your tanks and fish's health tell you when you need to do water changes. It will depend on your stocking level, your filtration and your water parameters.
#2: See #1. Water parameters aren't just ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. It also includes KH, GH, PH and Phosphates. There are also additives that will replace many of the nutrients that are consumed by your bio filter ... Tetra Easy Balance Plus claims that you can go 6 months w/o a water change if you use it. And while I do use it, I still do a water change at least once a month but usually more often.
#3: My tanks are pretty heavily planted. Plants like fish waste ... it's the "circle of life". But plants don't cover the entire tank so I will vacuum parts of the substrate where there aren't plants and where waste collects. No matter what you do or how hard you try to tweak the circulation, these places will exist in your tank. The longer you've had plants in the same place, the smaller these places are. Plants will spread their root across the entire substrate and soak up all the nutrients they can. I had a plant that disappeared - mysteriously - when the family went on vacation and we had a friend's kid take care of them. He denied any knowledge of the disappearing plants which, considering that it took up half the tank, wasn't believable. That same plant has now re-sprouted all over the tank and I now need to trim it back. "Life will find a way".
#4: In general, no. See #3. It depends on what you mean by "heavily planted". That said, you may still need to add ferts, especially micronutrients. One of my tanks is heavily planted with Amazon Swords ... they LOVE iron. I dose with Seachem Flourish Iron and, in 2 days, the iron levels are undetectable because the Amazon Swords eat it up. More than anything else, I've found that dosing with Flourish Iron keeps my plants vibrant and growing.
#5: Prime for your tap water - that seems to be a universal recommendation from "fish folk". My tap is filtered and chlorine-free and yet ... I still dose with Prime. SafeStart or Dr. Tim's One and Only is absolutely essential for cycling, especially if you are doing a fish-in cycle but, outside of that, is usually unnecessary. However, if adding a LOT of new stock or completely changing out your bio-media, TSS or O&O will minimize ammonia and/or nitrite spikes. Unfortunately, many of the current HOB filters make it too easy to completely remove your biofilter when you change media. I do use Easy Balance Plus. My PH is doesn't change ... at all ... ever. Does it help reduce nitrates? Can you use it to reduce water changes to 1x/6mo? Don't know ... that just seems so very wrong to me. What I do know is this ... my tanks (esp my 45 g tank) are overstocked by aqadvisor's standards but my water parameters are good with 25% changes every other week. My fish are healthy and seem to be happy; they grow and spawn, eat like horses and are very active.
#6: Absolutely, positively not. As long as you use properly dechlorinated water, you won't disrupt your cycle. If you use chlorinated water, you will *kill* your cycle. Of course, the purpose of chlorination is to kill bacteria in the water - any and all bacteria. If you are doing an in-fish cycle with TSS, you do need to be careful as many conditioners will disrupt the "packaging" of the TSS bacteria. But once you have a full, natural cycle, it's pretty hard to kill it off if you dechlorinate the water first.

 

I seem to have offended you by trying to gather information, which is odd, after you have already contributed to the thread.

I think Lucy's post was in response to this:

Hello! I would like to start an informational thread for this forum! If it has already been created, please post the link. If not, here is my plan.

I guess I'm having a hard time following this thread as well. There never will be one definite answer to most of these questions as everyone's aquarium environment is different. Is this specific to your situation OldOne?