Water changes and tests.

Hello,

My tank has 6 weeks with 11 tank mates and plants.

I have been doing weekly water changes since week 4. ( week 1 and 2 fishless without water changes, week 3 changing every day.)

I know when the tank is stable, people do less testing. But What about me?
Should I test before my water change tomorrow? After? Both?
Please, Share your thoughts for young tanks!!

 

Well I would test now. What test kit are you using. How big is the tank? What type of fish do you have? How did you cycle it? How much water do you change?

 

Yes, I would track the water parameters before a WC and note the above answers to keep track of your water maintenance atleast for the first few WC until you feel comfortable with the tank being on auto-pilot (not really but I hope you understand)

 

Well I would test now. What test kit are you using. How big is the tank? What type of fish do you have? How did you cycle it? How much water do you change?

I use JBL water test kit
54l - 15g
3 mollys
3 platys
5 neon tetra

between 30 and 50% depending on how well I wanna vacuum the gravel.

btw, how can I link my aquarium details with my answer. I remembered I upload all info there, it would make easier when I create a thread.

thanks

 

I use JBL water test kit
54l - 15g
3 mollys
3 platys
5 neon tetra

between 30 and 50% depending on how well I wanna vacuum the gravel.

btw, how can I link my aquarium details with my answer. I remembered I upload all info there, it would make easier when I create a thread.

thanks

I think your tank is overstocked and may need 50% WC weekly. Mollies can grow to 4".

How often are you doing WC, and what are your nitrates level?

Most people can view the aquarium details in your profile if they mouse over your user profile on the left of a post. Some can want additional details in order to provide more detailed/specific info

 

First question, is your tank cycled? Do you get a zero reading on both ammonia and nitrites, and nitrates increasing? If it's not cycled, then I would be testing daily, and replacing 50 to 75% of your water to keep your ammonia+nitrites added together, less than 1 ppm.

If you are cycled, then with your high bioload, I would test every 5 to 7 days, before changing any water, and be doing a 50% minimum WC between 5 and 7 days, just to keep nitrates in check.

I personally see no reason to test after you do a WC, unless your ammonia, nitrites or nitrates were extremely high. It will confirm that you've lowered them, but if you replace enough water, it really won't do much more than give you a warm fuzzy.

With a high bioload like you have, once you're cycled, you can expect fairly high nitrates too, unless you're heavily planted. The only way to lower nitrates, is with water changes...

 

I think your tank is overstocked and may need 50% WC weekly. Mollies can grow to 4".

How often are you doing WC, and what are your nitrates level?

Most people can view the aquarium details in your profile if they mouse over your user profile on the left of a post. Some can want additional details in order to provide more detailed/specific info

got it. Better update info here them. Thanks.

really? it’s annoying when you describe your tank at LFS and they sell as a good fish for my tank

but my fault of not researching before.

doing weekly WC:

last reading:
Ammonium: 0
Nitrite 0.1
Nitrate: 3
pH 7.4
KH 6

First question, is your tank cycled? Do you get a zero reading on both ammonia and nitrites, and nitrates increasing? If it's not cycled, then I would be testing daily, and replacing 50 to 75% of your water to keep your ammonia+nitrites added together, less than 1 ppm.

If you are cycled, then with your high bioload, I would test every 5 to 7 days, before changing any water, and be doing a 50% minimum WC between 5 and 7 days, just to keep nitrates in check.

I personally see no reason to test after you do a WC, unless your ammonia, nitrites or nitrates were extremely high. It will confirm that you've lowered them, but if you replace enough water, it really won't do much more than give you a warm fuzzy.

With a high bioload like you have, once you're cycled, you can expect fairly high nitrates too, unless you're heavily planted. The only way to lower nitrates, is with water changes...

I thought it was cycled after 2 weeks following LFS guide. Brought fish in, started reading and understood it was in the middle of cycling. So:
week 1 - tetra safe, fish food every day
Week 2 - no fish yet
week 3 - LFS tested my water and I brought 6 fish home (first mistake. Now i know i should have started with less fish)
So, I did WC every single day. And bought test kit
week 4 - ammonium reach 0 for 3 days in row. And nitrite up and down between 0.05 and 0.2
Kept WC every day.
week 5 - nitrite don’t pass 0.1 ppm and nitrate goes from 1 ppm to 3 ppm.

between week 4 and 5 I tested water every 3 days.

tomorrow is my week 7. I will test and change 50 to 75%

I do have plants since the setup. Anubias and hygrophila.

 

How are you able to determine nitrates as precisely 3ppm? What test are you using to measure nitrates? Curious to know.

Current sizing approximately (already almost 15"):
mollies - 3 x 2" = 6"
platies - 3 * 1/1.5" = 4.5"
neons - 5 * 0.75" = 4"

when they grow up,each species combined sizing: mollies would be 12", platies - 6", tetra - 5", making up 23".

As Mongo suggested, I would look into adding a lot more plants to your tank to provide hiding places during times of aggression and also help reduce the nitrate bioload.

 

How are you able to determine nitrates as precisely 3ppm? What test are you using to measure nitrates? Curious to know.

Current sizing approximately (already almost 15"):
mollies - 3 x 2" = 6"
platies - 3 * 1/1.5" = 4.5"
neons - 5 * 0.75" = 4"

when they grow up,each species combined sizing: mollies would be 12", platies - 6", tetra - 5", making up 23".

As Mongo suggested, I would look into adding a lot more plants to your tank to provide hiding places during times of aggression and also help reduce the nitrate bioload.

I live in Ireland and these JBL brand is popular here with their products. It’s German. Their scale has 0 - 1 - 3 - 5 - 15 reading for fresh water. Have a look.
Tomorrow I will upload the pictures of the test here, and you can help me confirming if my reading are accordingly with the scale.

my gosh, it is overstocked. -.-
I checked different websites about it and non give these numbers. Like aqadvisor, you know?

 

What type of filter are you using?

 

What type of filter are you using?

internal filter - Aquael ASAP 300 . 300l/h - 80g/h

Do you think I could reduce de size of its sponge and add other medias with it? Great different layers.

 

JBL is great for testing kits, they are one of the best brands in Europe, but some of their stuff is quite pricey.

You can mod the filter. Leave at least half of the sponge, you don't have to add much:
My recommendation, from intake to output: sponge, filterfloss, biomedia (in a bag!).
Filterfloss will have to be changed at least every 2 weeks or it can get clogged.

Otherwise: It's still a problem we have everywhere, that people get recommended livebearers for beginner tanks. If you want a healthy stocking in a tank like yours: Rehome the mollies and platies, keep the neons and get a school of 6-8 pygmaeus or habrosus cories.

And another hint: Forget about AqAdvisor.

Edit: What are the dimensions of the tank (cm, please)? Can you show us a pic of the whole tank?

 

JBL is great for testing kits, they are one of the best brands in Europe, but some of their stuff is quite pricey.

You can mod the filter. Leave at least half of the sponge, you don't have to add much:
My recommendation, from intake to output: sponge, filterfloss, biomedia (in a bag!).
Filterfloss will have to be changed at least every 2 weeks or it can get clogged.

Otherwise: It's still a problem we have everywhere, that people get recommended livebearers for beginner tanks. If you want a healthy stocking in a tank like yours: Rehome the mollies and platies, keep the neons and get a school of 6-8 pygmaeus or habrosus cories.

And another hint: Forget about AqAdvisor.

Edit: What are the dimensions of the tank (cm, please)? Can you show us a pic of the whole tank?

Yes, they are pricey, but I like its case. How you measure, etc. It’s not a well know brand in these forums. I believe most of the users here are from America.

Great I will do that!!! I thought would be ok. But first tank, I didn’t wanna risk everything.

I remember asking about a community tank with peaceful fishes for a 54 l tank (60x30x30).

and they said I could start with Mollys because they are hardy. I got 3 mollys. Then one week after I got 3 Platys. wait 2 weeks and I got my 5 neon.
And my plan was to add one “centrepiece”. I liked the Rainbow Gourami.

I did the stock calculation on a different website too. i don’t know if I can mention other forum here. But below a picture of my current stock size

 

Yes, they are pricey, but I like its case. How you measure, etc. It’s not a well know brand in these forums. I believe most of the users here are from America.

Great I will do that!!! I thought would be ok. But first tank, I didn’t wanna risk everything.

I remember asking about a community tank with peaceful fishes for a 54 l tank (60x30x30).

and they said I could start with Mollys because they are hardy. I got 3 mollys. Then one week after I got 3 Platys. wait 2 weeks and I got my 5 neon.
And my plan was to add one “centrepiece”. I liked the Rainbow Gourami.

I did the stock calculation on a different website too. i don’t know if I can mention other forum here. But below a picture of my current stock size

I'm German, so I know the European brands well. JBL, Sera and Tetra all have their headquarters less than 250km from where I live.

You should only do the filter-mod, when you have changed the stocking.

I missed your old request, then.

Yeah, they say they are hardy, but that's the only advantage.
Thing is, mollies and platies are more aggressive than people think and need more space as well. Plus, as livebearers, they will breed at one point. Not to mention, that their actual bioload is pretty high, reducing the number I would keep with a clean conscience in a tank of your size to a group of three platies and no tankmates for them.

Hmm... I'd not go for 2 Honey Gourami. Dwarf Gourami are too aggressive. But neither will work until you rehome the livebearers. Your bioload is already maxed out.

I don't work with calculators at all (except unit converters), but that may be because I learned most tank related knowledge as a kid. And yes, I know the website you used.

 

I am a new fish keeper and have asked a lot of the same questions you are asking. As a new fish keeper, testing is both useful for keeping track of tank parameters and educational for understanding what is going on in your tank.

I test a lot. Sometimes before and after a water change. Sometimes just randomly during the week when I am curious. I find gaining an understanding of how all the various water characteristics fit together is interesting.

I think once you get a feel for your tanks you can test less or not at all.

 

Ok about the filter. It’s good the way it is. No need to add bio-media the sponge is porous enough to support your bb. As to floss you can add it for a fast cleaning and just leave the sponge in the tank while cleaning. Than reinstall after cleaning. Being that filter only moves 80gph and your 15g should be moving about 150gph you may want to upgrade your filter or add another one of those. On my 15g shrimp tank I have a marineland 30 hob.
As to fish yes the live bearers should be moved on. If you have both male and female you will soon have fry. That’s why pet stores push live bearers. Now you have all these fry so you’ll need a new tank. Had a thread on here where she was up to 5 tanks full of live bearers. Neons are nice Pygmy Cory’s are also nice but not readily available. So 2 or 3 regular Cory’s will do (no 6 won’t work in a 15:eek. Maybe some shrimp.

 

I'm German, so I know the European brands well. JBL, Sera and Tetra all have their headquarters less than 250km from where I live.

You should only do the filter-mod, when you have changed the stocking.

I missed your old request, then.

Yeah, they say they are hardy, but that's the only advantage.
Thing is, mollies and platies are more aggressive than people think and need more space as well. Plus, as livebearers, they will breed at one point. Not to mention, that their actual bioload is pretty high, reducing the number I would keep with a clean conscience in a tank of your size to a group of three platies and no tankmates for them.

Hmm... I'd not go for 2 Honey Gourami. Dwarf Gourami are too aggressive. But neither will work until you rehome the livebearers. Your bioload is already maxed out.

I don't work with calculators at all (except unit converters), but that may be because I learned most tank related knowledge as a kid. And yes, I know the website you used.

Sorry, I didn’t mean you. I have just noticed the majority of the Users asked me about JBL. They normally recommend API and the reading are slightly different.
Could you explain why wait the change of stock to the filter mod, please?

don’t tell me about their bioload. They poo a lot. Lol..

I don’t know if it’s good or bad. But they wont breed because I checked and they are all female.

thank you for all your help. Good to talk to someone with plenty of experience .
I don’t have other tank. How could I re home them? I don’t think the shop would take them back. And tbh I like them .

I keep a good routine of weekly WC and vacuum cleaning, not over feeding. Do you think I could keep them?

 

Sorry, I didn’t mean you. I have just noticed the majority of the Users asked me about JBL. They normally recommend API and the reading are slightly different.
Could you explain why wait the change of stock to the filter mod, please?

don’t tell me about their bioload. They poo a lot. Lol..

I don’t know if it’s good or bad. But they wont breed because I checked and they are all female.

thank you for all your help. Good to talk to someone with plenty of experience .
I don’t have other tank. How could I re home them? I don’t think the shop would take them back. And tbh I like them .

I keep a good routine of weekly WC and vacuum cleaning, not over feeding. Do you think I could keep them?

Yeah, I was just giving a reason, why I know. It's frustrating though to get recommendations, for any equipment, for brands that you simply can't get in Europe or that are very expensive to import, even via Amazon and such, because the shipping costs are high.

With the filter mod you would toss parts of the sponge and with that part of the beneficial bacteria, that are always mostly found in the filter. So reducing the BBs while your stocking still has that heavy bioload might kill the cycle or at least cause an ammonia spike.

All female... let's hope none of them has had contact with a male before, because most livebearers store sperm and can produce young months after the last contact with a male.

Rehomeing can mean: Different tank, giving them to somebordy else or returning them to the store. The store will likely take them back, but not give you much credit, of any.
If you actually like them: There is no other way, you should get them a bigger tank. I would recommend at least 100 liters. Yes, that's double of what you have, for 6 fish. But that's my opinion. I hate to cram too many fish into a too small tank. Thta's why I would give them away.

86 ssinit : Pygmy cories are easy available in Europe and almost always tank bred nowerdays. Habrosus are a bit more complicated, but whereever you get them, they are also in steady supply.

 

Yeah, I was just giving a reason, why I know. It's frustrating though to get recommendations, for any equipment, for brands that you simply can't get in Europe or that are very expensive to import, even via Amazon and such, because the shipping costs are high.

With the filter mod you would toss parts of the sponge and with that part of the beneficial bacteria, that are always mostly found in the filter. So reducing the BBs while your stocking still has that heavy bioload might kill the cycle or at least cause an ammonia spike.

All female... let's hope none of them has had contact with a male before, because most livebearers store sperm and can produce young months after the last contact with a male.

Rehomeing can mean: Different tank, giving them to somebordy else or returning them to the store. The store will likely take them back, but not give you much credit, of any.
If you actually like them: There is no other way, you should get them a bigger tank. I would recommend at least 100 liters. Yes, that's double of what you have, for 6 fish. But that's my opinion. I hate to cram too many fish into a too small tank. Thta's why I would give them away.

86 ssinit : Pygmy cories are easy available in Europe and almost always tank bred nowerdays. Habrosus are a bit more complicated, but whereever you get them, they are also in steady supply.

yes, it’s difficult job trying to find alternative options and reliable because there are way less people use them and sharing in these forums.

Make sense.I will check to upgrade my filter as 86 ssinit suggested. And then I work with mods there.

I am attaching a picture of my tank. They seem happy lol

 

Nice tank to work with and all live plants, right? I'd maybe add more plants, otherwise it's allright. I see it a bit as a blank canvas to expand on.

 

Nice tank to work with and all live plants, right? I'd maybe add more plants, otherwise it's allright. I see it a bit as a blank canvas to expand on.

thank you.
Yes, 1 Anubias Barteri, one anubias Barteri nana and Hygrophila polysperma.

Indeed, I will go slow on fish keep working with what I have. Hope make a life long community.

I am a new fish keeper and have asked a lot of the same questions you are asking. As a new fish keeper, testing is both useful for keeping track of tank parameters and educational for understanding what is going on in your tank.

I test a lot. Sometimes before and after a water change. Sometimes just randomly during the week when I am curious. I find gaining an understanding of how all the various water characteristics fit together is interesting.

I think once you get a feel for your tanks you can test less or not at all.

I did test last Thursday and I got:

Ppm:

Ammonium: 0
Nitrite: 0.1
Nitrate: 3

today:
Ammonium 0
Nitrite: 0.4
Nitrate: 5

I was concerned about my test kit being wrong with always similar results. But it’s not the case.
Anyway, I changed 30l out of 54.

Tomorrow I am going to test again.

 

The Nitrite levels would concern me. At least ammonia are down.

 

The Nitrite levels would concern me. At least ammonia are down.

It did concern me. How long do I need to wait to test the water again? I will test tomorrow morning and if it’s not on the safe level I do another water change.

 

Test mornings and evenings and whenever the reading hits 0.5 do a 50% wc.

 

Morning update 10am:

I check my tank and noticea different noise from my filter.It was not working as always. Just check the cartridge and it was not well attached. Basically I lost my WC of yesterday I guess. Because I test again this morning and results was:

NH4 0
No2 0.4 again - ( also checked my water source and I am glad the nitrite is almost non)
No3 5 ppm again.

I did 50% WC, fixed the filter. Fishes are, however 2 Platys are staying quiet right beside my heater element. Temperature is stable at 77.
I have the heater element with temperature control in one corner of the tank and another thermostat on the opposite corner.

my plan is to test the water again around 5 pm and see if I need to do one more WC.

Also, I’m 100% convinced I overstock my tank .
I believe with the gravel, decor and the gap between the fill line and glass, my tank probably holds 50 l of water (11g).