Water change to my 60 gallon fish tank.

mijera25

I have a 60 gallon aquarium and I changed 50% of the water. My question is putting api tap water safe api proper ph 7.0 and api stress coat and zyme 1ml each and 1ts can it poison my water.. I just lost two tinfoil barbs. Do I keep an eye on it or chnge the water and add..??
 

Dillan Murphy

I have a 60 gallon aquarium and I changed 50% of the water. My question is putting api tap water safe api proper ph 7.0 and api stress coat and zyme 1ml each and 1ts can it poison my water.. I just lost two tinfoil barbs. Do I keep an eye on it or chnge the water and add..??
No have you checked your parameters if so what are they
 
Upvote 0

wateriswet

Did you match the temperature of the water you put into your tank with the tank's temperature? I know that this time of year my ground water is really warm and I have a hard time getting cool enough water to refill my tanks.

Before this, when was the last time you did a water change? Had it been a long time?
 
Upvote 0

mijera25

Everything is normal gh 30 kh 0 ph 7.0 no2 1 no3 20
This is my first 60 gallon and I ran it for a month and half without livestock. This is my first water change in two months in this size so I need a little of help.
Am I rushing things my livestock been there for two months. Should I change water every now two three months. wateriswet yes I did the water was at 78' when I tranfered it back to my aquarium.
 
Upvote 0

Dunk2

Everything is normal gh 30 kh 0 ph 7.0 no2 1 no3 20
This is my first 60 gallon and I ran it for a month and half without livestock. This is my first water change in two months in this size so I need a little of help.

Welcome to FL!

If your nitrites are 1.0, your tank isn’t fully cycled. Are you testing for ammonia? Were you adding an ammonia source for the month and a half you ran the tank without fish?

How long have the fish been in the tank?
 
Upvote 0

mijera25

The only thing I added when it cycled throughout that month was the frits complete 5ml to be exact. Then I waited two weeks for livestock. But again my parameters where fine. Two samples were tanken to two local fish pet shop.
 
Upvote 0

Pfrozen

You need to add ammonia after introducing the bacteria so it has something to eat. Otherwise it will just float around and die. Read up on the aquarium nitrogen cycle here on Fishlore. As others have said your tank isn't cycled

Don't put medications into an uncycled tank either, it causes more stress when the fish are already sitting in nitrite soup. And you don't need proper ph either, chemical ph buffers wear off quickly and cause large parameter swings that can also stress out/kill your fish. All you need is water conditioner and nothing more
 
Upvote 0

Dunk2

The only thing I added when it cycled throughout that month was the frits complete 5ml to be exact. Then I waited two weeks for livestock. But again my parameters where fine. Two samples were tanken to two local fish pet shop.

I‘ve never used it, but I think Fritz Complete is a water conditioner? Not a source of ammonia?

If you weren’t adding a source of ammonia, the cycling process just started when you added fish (an ammonia source). When exactly did you add fish?

You said your parameters are fine. . . Did I read your nitrite test of 1.0 incorrect?
 
Upvote 0

Pfrozen

I‘ve never used it, but I think Fritz Complete is a water conditioner? Not a source of ammonia?

If you weren’t adding a source of ammonia, the cycling process just started when you added fish (an ammonia source). When exactly did you add fish?

You said your parameters are fine. . . Did I read your nitrite test of 1.0 incorrect?

Im not familiar with fritz.. OP if you didn't use a bottled bacteria product at all and just put fish in 2 week old water then yea, not cycled. Even if you did use bottled bacteria you would have done it incorrectly anyways. This place is great for getting help so ask away. Right now you pretty much have to run a "fish in" cycle so I recommend dumping a bottle of nitrifying bacteria into your tank right away. Test for ammonia and nitrites every day and keep the combined total below 1 ppm until they disappear entirely and you start getting nitrate readings
 
Upvote 0

mijera25

Thanks for the info
Im not familiar with fritz.. OP if you didn't use a bottled bacteria product at all and just put fish in 2 week old water then yea, not cycled. Even if you did use bottled bacteria you would have done it incorrectly anyways. This place is great for getting help so ask away. Right now you pretty much have to run a "fish in" cycle so I recommend dumping a bottle of nitrifying bacteria into your tank right away. Test for ammonia and nitrites every day and keep the combined total below 1 ppm until they disappear entirely and you start getting nitrate readings
Thanks for the confidence booster all I have available is the api stress coat and zyme. Will the quick start from api do the trick.
 
Upvote 0

Dunk2

Thanks for the info

Thanks for the confidence booster all I have available is the api stress coat and zyme. Will the quick start from api do the trick.

API Quick Start is a bottled bacteria. As previously said, I’d suggest you stop adding anything to your tank except the bottled bacteria and a water conditioner. I’d suggest using Seachem Prime as the water conditioner.

You’ll also need your own test kit to get through the cycling process. Not sure where you’re located, but I’d suggest the API Master Test kit. Test daily and do water changes (probably daily) to keep the combined level of ammonia and nitrites below 1.0 and preferably around 0.50. Until you get a test kit, I’d suggest 50% daily water changes.

You mentioned your pH. What was your pH before you added the API pH product? What fish and how many do you have in this tank?
 
Upvote 0

mijera25

API Quick Start is a bottled bacteria. As previously said, I’d suggest you stop adding anything to your tank except the bottled bacteria and a water conditioner. I’d suggest using Seachem Prime as the water conditioner.

You’ll also need your own test kit to get through the cycling process. Not sure where you’re located, but I’d suggest the API Master Test kit. Test daily and do water changes (probably daily) to keep the combined level of ammonia and nitrites below 1.0 and preferably around 0.50. Until you get a test kit, I’d suggest 50% daily water changes.

You mentioned your pH. What was your pH before you added the API pH product? What fish and how many do you have in this tank?
My pH was at 7.5 I think my mistake was to add the pH 7.0 I should of left it as is and will. There is no fish loss exept my two redtail tinfoils. All my fishes are juvenile. Four types of rainbowfish, boesemani, praecox, australian, red irian. Three each. One redtail shark. Two sailfin pleco. Three Denison barb. Three flying fox algae eater. Three clown loach.Three pictus catfish. A total of 30 fishes. Temp is 78'. But I agree im not gonna touch it all fishes have there color back and thriving.
My pH was at 7.5 I think my mistake was to add the pH 7.0 I should of left it as is and will. There is no fish loss exept my two redtail tinfoils. All my fishes are juvenile. Four types of rainbowfish, boesemani, praecox, australian, red irian. Three each. One redtail shark. Two sailfin pleco. Three Denison barb. Three flying fox algae eater. Three clown loach.Three pictus catfish. A total of 30 fishes. Temp is 78'. But I agree im not gonna touch it all fishes have there color back and thriving.
Whats your best advice for me in water changes. And can you list the products I need to prevent fish loss. Truth be told im a little afraid in doing changes.
 
Upvote 0

Dunk2

My pH was at 7.5 I think my mistake was to add the pH 7.0 I should of left it as is and will. There is no fish loss exept my two redtail tinfoils. All my fishes are juvenile. Four types of rainbowfish, boesemani, praecox, australian, red irian. Three each. One redtail shark. Two sailfin pleco. Three Denison barb. Three flying fox algae eater. Three clown loach.Three pictus catfish. A total of 30 fishes. Temp is 78'. But I agree im not gonna touch it all fishes have there color back and thriving.

Whats your best advice for me in water changes. And can you list the products I need to prevent fish loss. Truth be told im a little afraid in doing changes.

Daily testing and water changes to keep the combined level of ammonia and nitrites around 0.50 ppm are going to prevent fish loss better than any products will.

Other than the bottled bacteria that you already have, the only other thing you should be adding to your water is a conditioner or dechlorinator. I suggested Seachem Prime in a post above.
 
Upvote 0

CrackerboxPalace

Thanks for the info

Thanks for the confidence booster all I have available is the api stress coat and zyme. Will the quick start from api do the trick.
Eventually your tank will cycle with fish in but you'll have to do daily water changes until you no longer get ammonia and nitrite readings, or else the fish are at risk of ammonia/nitrite poisoning.
 
Upvote 0

mijera25

Update on my tank. Bought the freshwater masterkit did the test. Mmm everything is not normal ammonia is 2.0ppm nitrete is 1.0ppm nitrate is 10ppm and only normal ph and high range ph is at 7.0 and hrph7.4. Just did a 50% water change and hope for the best. Wish me luck.
I almost forgot only product I used is api quickstart and sechem prime. Hope it does the job..
 
Upvote 0

Dunk2

Update on my tank. Bought the freshwater masterkit did the test. Mmm everything is not normal ammonia is 2.0ppm nitrete is 1.0ppm nitrate is 10ppm and only normal ph and high range ph is at 7.0 and hrph7.4. Just did a 50% water change and hope for the best. Wish me luck.
I almost forgot only product I used is api quickstart and sechem prime. Hope it does the job..

Although you referred to them as not normal, your water parameters are completely normal for an uncycled tank.

Your pH of 7.4 is fine (no need for you to use low range test). Other than the Prime, put all your other products in a locked cabinet. And lose the key. ;)

Good luck, test daily, change water to keep the combined level of ammonia and nitrites around 0.50 ppm and come back here with questions.
 
Upvote 0

mattgirl

Please don't be afraid of doing water changes, even big water changes. When doing a fish in cycle they are critical to the health of your fish. As long as you temp match the water to the temp of the tank and add your water conditioner to remove the chlorine/chloramines from the water you are replacing water changes are not going to hurt the cycling process. Try to keep both ammonia and nitrites as low as possible to protect the fish from its damaging affects.

Since your water conditioner is Prime add enough with each water change to treat the full 60 gallons of water until you no longer see ammonia and/or nitrites. Prime is going to detox the ammonia. It will still show up in the test but it will be in a safer form. Your bacteria will still be able to process the ammonia through to nitrites.
 
Upvote 0

Similar Aquarium Threads

  • Question
Replies
7
Views
177
mattgirl
  • Question
  • Kenna
  • pH
Replies
33
Views
482
CidProQuo
Replies
6
Views
250
RayMichelle
  • Question
Replies
8
Views
243
peachsonas
  • Question
Replies
7
Views
217
Sorg67

Random Great Thread

Latest Aquarium Threads

Top Bottom