Is there anything I can do to make due that the motor doesn't fry up in case of a power outage? This is the one and only downside of this filter. How does the motor fry up, and what do I do to prevent it?
Thanks so much!ForceTen said:Okay. I'm your guy.
I have replaced exactly one motor since I went to AC HOB filters. One to many.
The filter will start back up after a power loss if two things are in place.
The water level in the tank is sufficient and the intake tube is primed. Should the water be to low in the tank, the water in the filter housing will siphon back into the tank.
To test it just fill up your tank and start the filter. Then unplug it. It will start right up.
Should the tank water level be to low, the water in the housing will drain back into the tank to equalize. Sometimes this will be to low and the filter cannot pull the water up.
The filter will empty if the water is low enough.
If the intake tube is cracked or not fully in place this can cause startup failure.
The reason I lost a motor was due to my mistake. It happened while I was doing some cleaning and must have knocked the intake tube up and away from the water level.
And do not forget to prime whenever you do water changes.
I almost lost one a couple days ago doing the same thing. But I caught it real quick. So, I think its okay.
Now, if you just are plain worried, buy a GFCI receptacle that must be reset after a power outage. I'm not sure which one does this, but I did read it on the electricians forum a day or so ago. I will try and find it for you.
You will like the AC filters. Just use some common sense and all will go well.
The issue at hand is, "if the filter runs dry, it will fry the motor". A dry impeller in an AC filter will fry the motor. Aquaclear makes it perfectly known by the warning.Zach72202 said:I do not really understand what you mean by fry if there no power... I motor fries because it is not spinning (from being clogged) or a surge of electricity. Most equipment for fish tanks has only the 2 prong plug, which is a positive wire and neutral, positive for electricity and the neutral is to prevent you from getting electrocuted.
If the power goes out, the filter shouldn't fry. I have had the power go out and none of mine fried. If you are worried about this, you could get surge protector. All the power strips I use are surge protector power strips, and they have the 3 prong connector, where the bottom circular one is the ground. This is given you are using a USA plug style.
I buy my surge protector power strips for like 10 bucks at walmart. They should be in the electrical section and you can get them in cord style or wall plug style.
News to me. If any of my AC filters run out of water and are not caught very quickly, they are history. The magnetic rotor gets hot and the plastic that surrounds the stator becomes dis-formed. This stops it from turning and when it stops turning it gets even hotter and fails.kallililly1973 said:During our WC’s I leave all the AC’s plugged in and drain well below the intake and have never had any issues getting them going again I also came home to a power surge with the filter not running but after a couple minutes of cleaning the impeller area they were back to new again. If your concerned about them not starting back up you could go with a Tidal filter. We have a Tidal55 on our 20 long and it also runs dry and reprimes with zero issues. Good luck
The way I learned this information is I asked why do older tools, like a reciprocating saw, only have two prongs instead of 3? The answer I received from that was that they introduced a neutral wire as an additional conductor to prevent when the tool gets wet (as older tools had metal cases instead of plastic) so you would not get shocked if you were working in the rain or something of those lines. True or not, that's what I was told, so it may quite possibly be wrong, and by your statement it is. I know I left out a lot of information in my post as I wasn't really wanting to write a book. I do appreciate that you corrected me so I can go research the correct information.ForceTen said:The issue at hand is, "if the filter runs dry, it will fry the motor". A dry impeller in an AC filter will fry the motor. Aquaclear makes it perfectly known by the warning.
When the rotor turns without water, it produces heat. This heat will deform the plastic and lock the rotor.
Once the rotor is locked up, the current skyrockets and will fail. Usually it just will not turn anymore and when you go to remove the rotor it will not budge. This guarantees a bad fried motor.
Your description of how a typical residential AC electrical service works is quite interesting. I sure hope no one thinks its true or correct.
Where did you get that information from?
Also a surge protector will do nothing for the concern of the OP. A surge protector protects against surges in the system, it has no bearing on water in the filter housing.
Surge protectors while highly overrated do have a job. This is not one of them.
When the power goes out, the water from the filter drains out of the box, so when the power comes back on, the motor overheats and fries up.ghostdawg said:I'm new at this but AC filters do not come with cartridges, at least my AC30 didn't. It came with a sponge, bio balls and that charcoal bag type stuff. Once the charcoal bag wear out I will put more sponges in it.
What does it mean, "major downside of running dry and frying up in the event of a power outage." Do you mean when the power comes back on it will start running again? I've never thought about that.