Walstad Method (dirtied Tank)

HeathC
  • #1
I was wondering if it was worth it to convert my fluval flex 15gallin to a walstad planed tank. The lighting is medium and I have been adding florish, florish iron and root tabs with no results. This tank was s fully cycled and whilst o changed it I would put some fish a a spare 20 l tank and a 9 l bucket with a cued filter yet. Just wounding if I t was worth it? Thanks sorry for the spelling mistakes heath
 

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Nataku
  • #2
Well it depends on what look you are going for with the tank and if yiu are fine with letting it stabilize the first month or so with no fish in it.
I have two dirted tanks myself but they are not strictly walstad method as they do still have normal filters on them (one a cannister the other a HOB). I found after setting it up it was best to plant heavily and let the plants fill in for a bit - they will help pull the extra nutrients out of the newly set up tank and get a cycle going. Also the plants don't freak and die when there's random crazy ammonia swings the first moth like fish would. They just absorb the extra nutrients.
 

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HeathC
  • Thread Starter
  • #3
Would I be able to add the fish about a week later if I leave all of the traveled Cyclades and I also have enough cycled bio media for a 90 l tank plus a lot of cycled sponge? Thanks Heath (btw in that four or five day period after I would slowly add the fish back one at a time so I don’t add additional stress for the filter)

As I live in Australia I can't find miricel grow anywhere and I was wondering If Scott's organic fertiliser would be ok. (Link here ) thanks Heath
 
Nataku
  • #4
I don't know what 'traveled cyclades' are?

No, adding fish in a week after dirting a tank is exposing them to all the swings that will happen as the dirt breaks down in the water and starts releasing nutrients (for plants, ammonia is a nutrient, for fish its toxic). You might be fine for three days, a week or teo maybe, but then you will come home and find all the fish dead with an ammonia of 3.0 in the tank when it was 0 yesterday. Dirtrd tanks swing after initial set up. That's why you plant them but no fish in the beginning.

Any organic potting soil will work. Not fertilizer. Potting soil.
 
HeathC
  • Thread Starter
  • #5
Ok thanks, I don’t know what “Travled clycelades” are my bad, I also meant potting soil. Tanks for the help Heath
 
Wraithen
  • #6
Just read everything on the contents of the potting soil. You don't want anything not organic, no moisture control, no special beads. Some of the organic mixes use a hefty amount of manure as well. Those will induce a lot of nutrient swings.

A thick 2 inch sand cap, when done properly, will help ensure you don't get crazy swings. I added my fish a few days after filling my dirted tank. It was an upgrade from 65 to 180 gallons though so it was super lightly stocked and my filters and plants kept it stable.
 

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HeathC
  • Thread Starter
  • #7
Ok I din’t have Sanford but I will do a small cap of very fine gravel underneath my normal gravel to stop swings, thanks again Heath
 
Hunter1
  • #8
One of my dirty tanks got 4 seeded sponge filters when I started it and the ammonia was at 8ppm.

8 days later, 0 ammonia and I added fish.

The other dirty tank was cycled (0 ammonia, 0 nitrites) in one day with 4 seeded sponge filters. Different organic potting mixes.

But the one that had high ammonia seemed to “burn” my plants when I first put them in. I had a lot of dieoff. But 7-8 months later, the plant growth in the high ammonia tank is way better.
 
HeathC
  • Thread Starter
  • #9
Interesting , can you remember the names of the two potting mixes / soils?
 
Hunter1
  • #10
I have 1/2 a bag at my work rental.

I’ll look Monday evening.

And that was the “hot” one.

I poured the other bag out.
 
HeathC
  • Thread Starter
  • #11
Ok thanks
 

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