Using aquarium salt to heal betta fin rot?

My betta has the beginnings of fin rot. It is mild but it is definetly starting. I was told to use aquarium salts to start with to promote healing but I was wondering can I add the salts right into the water with him in the tank? Will it shock him? He has never been exposed to aquarium salts before. He has had an epsom salt bath twice and did fine. I know the aquarium salts are different and desigened for using in the tank but I just am airing on the side of caution. Thank you for your time!

 

Can you post a picture? If it's not bad fin rot I'd recommend just keeping your water pristine by 50% changes 2 or so times a week. What are your water parameters? Is your tank cycled?

 

My betta has the beginnings of fin rot. It is mild but it is definetly starting. I was told to use aquarium salts to start with to promote healing but I was wondering can I add the salts right into the water with him in the tank? Will it shock him? He has never been exposed to aquarium salts before. He has had an epsom salt bath twice and did fine. I know the aquarium salts are different and desigened for using in the tank but I just am airing on the side of caution. Thank you for your time!

Thanks so much for replying Dylan! Water parameters are good, just had it tested by petco, and I only use spring water along with API stress coat and Betta H20. It is filtered and is heated with a constant temp of 79 degrees. He is a five gallon. This the best photo I could get of him. Any time I go near the tank he gets all excitied thinking I will feed him so he does not always stay still. Thanks for response.

 

Thanks so much for replying Dylan! Water parameters are good, just had it tested by petco, and I only use spring water along with API stress coat and Betta H20. It is filtered and is heated with a constant temp of 79 degrees. He is a five gallon. This the best photo I could get of him. Any time I go near the tank he gets all excitied thinking I will feed him so he does not always stay still. Thanks for response.

Your equipment setup looks perfect, but I need to know your water parameters including Ammonia, Nitrites, and Nitrates. I also need to know whether your tank is cycled or not, you said you know about the cycle in your bio. I think petco uses test strips which are horribly inaccurate. Pick up an API master freshwater test kit, that will give you accurate readings.

 

Can you post a picture? If it's not bad fin rot I'd recommend just keeping your water pristine by 50% changes 2 or so times a week. What are your water parameters? Is your tank cycled?

Hey Dylan thanks so much for responding! I am slow. This my third attempt at responding to your. Haha. The water parameters are ggood. Just had them tested at Petco. I only use Spring Water and I use API stress coat and Betta H20 during water

Your equipment setup looks perfect, but I need to know your water parameters including Ammonia, Nitrites, and Nitrates. I also need to know whether your tank is cycled or not, you said you know about the cycle in your bio. I think petco uses test strips which are horribly inaccurate. Pick up an API master freshwater test kit, that will give you accurate readings.

Thank you. I will pick up master freshwater kit. Yes they were test stips. The readings though if I remember correct were Ammonia 0.0, PH 7.2 and nitrates I honestly cannot remember but she said they were within normal range. She said just the PH was a hair elevated for freshwaters. Which aI'm for 7.0. I will test tomorrow with the new kit when I get it. But what do you think about the state of his fins? Did you see the photo should I be worried?

 

Hey Dylan thanks so much for responding! I am slow. This my third attempt at responding to your. Haha. The water parameters are ggood. Just had them tested at Petco. I only use Spring Water and I use API stress coat and Betta H20 during water

Thank you. I will pick up master freshwater kit. Yes they were test stips. The readings though if I remember correct were Ammonia 0.0, PH 7.2 and nitrates I honestly cannot remember but she said they were within normal range. She said just the PH was a hair elevated for freshwaters. Which aI'm for 7.0. I will test tomorrow with the new kit when I get it. But what do you think about the state of his fins? Did you see the photo should I be worried?

It definitely looks like you got some fin rot there. Also, 7.2 pH is perfect, petco employees don't really know anything about caring for fish most of the time, and I wouldn't go off of anything they said. You need to get the API freshwater master test kit if you plan on keeping fish. Like I said, I would recommend just keeping the water obsessively clean until they look healed, however I can't do that without knowing the following:

1. Do you know what the nitrogen cycle is
2. Is your tank "cycled"?
3. How do you know your tank is cycled if you weren't able to monitor the water parameters?
4. (not a question) You definitely don't need to use the bottled water they sell at pet stores. Just add the appropriate amount of seachem prime (pick up a bottle on amazon or any pet store) to your tap water. The betta H20 stuff you are using is overpriced tap water conditioner, seachem prime is much cheaper and much better quality.
5. Do you clean your filter media when you do a water change?
6. How often do you do water changes?
7. What is the size of your tank?

 

It definitely looks like you got some fin rot there. Also, 7.2 pH is perfect, petco employees don't really know anything about caring for fish most of the time, and I wouldn't go off of anything they said. You need to get the API freshwater master test kit if you plan on keeping fish. Like I said, I would recommend just keeping the water obsessively clean until they look healed, however I can't do that without knowing the following:

1. Do you know what the nitrogen cycle is
2. Is your tank "cycled"?
3. How do you know your tank is cycled if you weren't able to monitor the water parameters?
4. (not a question) You definitely don't need to use the bottled water they sell at pet stores. Just add the appropriate amount of seachem prime (pick up a bottle on amazon or any pet store) to your tap water. The betta H20 stuff you are using is overpriced tap water conditioner, seachem prime is much cheaper and much better quality.
5. Do you clean your filter media when you do a water change?
6. How often do you do water changes?
7. What is the size of your tank?

I always thought cycled meant constantly filtered and yes it is constantly all the time filter. Never goes off. I was monitoring the water by repeatedly having it tested I live five minutes from petco, I was not aware of a self testing kit, now I know I will get it. I use spring water from safeway because I live in an area where the tap water is highly acidic. It actually is easier than trying to balance my own water, and cheap since I buy it for the store, not Petco. Yes I clean the filter and I replace the sponges if dirty or necessary. I do water changes once every 11 days and when I do I change 30% of the water. My tank is 5.5 gallons.

 

I always thought cycled meant constantly filtered and yes it is constantly all the time filter. Never goes off. I was monitoring the water by repeatedly having it tested I live five minutes from petco, I was not aware of a self testing kit, now I know I will get it. I use spring water from safeway because I live in an area where the tap water is highly acidic. It actually is easier than trying to balance my own water, and cheap since I buy it for the store, not Petco. Yes I clean the filter and I replace the sponges if dirty or necessary. I do water changes once every 11 days and when I do I change 30% of the water. My tank is 5.5 gallons.

Alright, thanks, I found your problem(s). First of all, stop cleaning and replacing the sponges, every time you clean or replace them the bacteria that's living on them and converting ammonia to nitrite then to nitrate is being removed/killed. That's what's keeping your tank from cycling. To understand the nitrogen cycle click on the blue words. I'd recommend, 50% water changes every other day using the appropriate amount of seachem prime every water change (it not only removes chlorine and chloramine, but converts ammonia (NH3) to Ammonium (NH4), which is much less toxic to fish. At first your tests will read some amount of ammonia, 0 nitrites, and low nitrates. Then ammonia will drop to 0 and nitrites will spike, it is important that you do frequent and large water changes durring this phase. Eventually both ammonia and nitrites will reach 0 and nitrates will go to around 20-40, that's when your tank is cycled. Also, for your filter, what kind do you have? If you have a sponge you should have enough space for bacteria to build up but I want to be certain.

 

Welcome to fishlore RaeAnna

you're in good hands. DylanM is giving you great advice.... I just wanted to say welcome & don't freak out. pet stores never tell you this stuff when you start out with fish. but this forum will help!! good luck

 

Another welcome! The good news is that pristine water often heals fin rot! Once you get a Master Kit you can test your tap water & may be pleased to discover you can use that! We will see.

 

dont get overwhelmed, it is a lot at first but you have gotten the very best advice! I was in your shoes just a few months back, and now have 4 cycled tanks with very hapy healthy fish. just follow the advice to the t and soon enough you wount have to worry about ill fish. a simple weekly test will reassure you tht you are on the right track. best of luck. and a big WELCOME

 

Thank you everyone! You are all the best. Have been doing routine partial water changes, and got the stress kit test and the levels are all good. Unfortunately his fin rot was moving at much too quick of pace. I had to start treatment or his fins would have been gone in a week maybe two. I spoke with someone who really know betta's, she raises 'em, and she recommended artemiss microbe-lift. I have been using that. Since I started the fin rot stopped progressing, but he has been so mellow. Like he is high! Has anyone else used this and expreinced similar things? With their betta's? He is perfectly fine. Still floats perfect and will eat but is just zoned out as if floating in a trance and swim very little. I followed the doseing instructions very carefully. Only 1ml a day for 5 gallon, and I have a 5.5 gallon. So I am actually using a little less.

Alright, thanks, I found your problem(s). First of all, stop cleaning and replacing the sponges, every time you clean or replace them the bacteria that's living on them and converting ammonia to nitrite then to nitrate is being removed/killed. That's what's keeping your tank from cycling. To understand the nitrogen cycle click on the blue words. I'd recommend, 50% water changes every other day using the appropriate amount of seachem prime every water change (it not only removes chlorine and chloramine, but converts ammonia (NH3) to Ammonium (NH4), which is much less toxic to fish. At first your tests will read some amount of ammonia, 0 nitrites, and low nitrates. Then ammonia will drop to 0 and nitrites will spike, it is important that you do frequent and large water changes durring this phase. Eventually both ammonia and nitrites will reach 0 and nitrates will go to around 20-40, that's when your tank is cycled. Also, for your filter, what kind do you have? If you have a sponge you should have enough space for bacteria to build up but I want to be certain.

Thank you Dylan. I have done as you said. Got the stress kit. Water parameters are good. I unfortunately had to start a treatment though. In 3 days his fins got so bad, despite doing water changes I was afraid that the bacteria would reach his body. Someone who raises betta's told me to use artemiss microbe-lift. It has been helping the fin rot stopped moving and eating away at his tail, but he is acting really high, which I do not like. Just like in a trance. It is weird. He swims fine and will eat if prompted, is breathing fin, and floats fine. He just prefers to chill and float and space out. Do you have any experience with artemiss microbe-lift? Have you ever heard of it making a fish super chilled out while using it?

 

Thank you everyone! You are all the best. Have been doing routine partial water changes, and got the stress kit test and the levels are all good. Unfortunately his fin rot was moving at much too quick of pace. I had to start treatment or his fins would have been gone in a week maybe two. I spoke with someone who really know betta's, she raises 'em, and she recommended artemiss microbe-lift. I have been using that. Since I started the fin rot stopped progressing, but he has been so mellow. Like he is high! Has anyone else used this and expreinced similar things? With their betta's? He is perfectly fine. Still floats perfect and will eat but is just zoned out as if floating in a trance and swim very little. I followed the doseing instructions very carefully. Only 1ml a day for 5 gallon, and I have a 5.5 gallon. So I am actually using a little less.

You need to be testing regularly, if you were cleaning out your media regularly in water from the tap your tank definitely isn't cycled. "fine" may not be good enough, please post the actual levels. Happy the microbe-lift is helping the betta get his slime coat back though.

Thank you Dylan. I have done as you said. Got the stress kit. Water parameters are good. I unfortunately had to start a treatment though. In 3 days his fins got so bad, despite doing water changes I was afraid that the bacteria would reach his body. Someone who raises betta's told me to use artemiss microbe-lift. It has been helping the fin rot stopped moving and eating away at his tail, but he is acting really high, which I do not like. Just like in a trance. It is weird. He swims fine and will eat if prompted, is breathing fin, and floats fine. He just prefers to chill and float and space out. Do you have any experience with artemiss microbe-lift? Have you ever heard of it making a fish super chilled out while using it?

I wish I could help figure out if the medication is causing this issue, and I don't doubt it's the reason your betta is doing better, but these "herbal" remedies rarely list their ingredients, because chances are they are usually just effective DIY treatments like salt mixed with some water, so I wouldn't know what would be causing the slowness. I hope you start to see some fin growth soon. My best guess is that it has a small amount of clove oil in it to calm the fish. I'm not sure if it actually includes this ingredient, but if it did that would explain the slowness. In very small amounts it can calm down fish, but in higher doses it is used to euthanize fish. Once again, not sure whether there is actually any oil in it, but in case their is, follow dosage instructions to a T.

 

You need to be testing regularly, if you were cleaning out your media regularly in water from the tap your tank definitely isn't cycled. "fine" may not be good enough, please post the actual levels. Happy the microbe-lift is helping the betta get his slime coat back though.

The levels are ammnonia 0.0 nitrites 0.0 nitrates 10 and PH 7.5 And I only use spring water. Never tap. I know you can use tap but I do not. I used to try and solve the PH issue but apparently it did not solve it.
The water is fine. It is something else. That's what is so frustrating.

I wish I could help figure out if the medication is causing this issue, and I don't doubt it's the reason your betta is doing better, but these "herbal" remedies rarely list their ingredients, because chances are they are usually just effective DIY treatments like salt mixed with some water, so I wouldn't know what would be causing the slowness. I hope you start to see some fin growth soon. My best guess is that it has a small amount of clove oil in it to calm the fish. I'm not sure if it actually includes this ingredient, but if it did that would explain the slowness. In very small amounts it can calm down fish, but in higher doses it is used to euthanize fish. Once again, not sure whether there is actually any oil in it, but in case their is, follow dosage instructions to a T.

I will look into this cause I certianly do not want to accidently overdose him! Thank you for all your help. You have been tons of support. When I got him he was the sickest fish there, but I had to have him, and nursed him back to healthy once, but then he took a sharp decline the last week. Maybe he has had something bacterial all along. Praying he will get better.

 

A pH of 7.5 is fine. It doesn't need to get down to 7.

 

A pH of 7.5 is fine. It doesn't need to get down to 7.

That's good to hear. Been driving me nuts for **** near 3 months. I switched from tap to bottled spring water from safe. Still no change. Good to hear it is not a cause for concern. Thank you for your input!

 

The levels are ammnonia 0.0 nitrites 0.0 nitrates 10 and PH 7.5 And I only use spring water. Never tap. I know you can use tap but I do not. I used to try and solve the PH issue but apparently it did not solve it.
The water is fine. It is something else. That's what is so frustrating.

Perfect parameters, just remember to test once a week before water changes.

 

Perfect parameters, just remember to test once a week before water changes.

Will do! Thank you for all of your advice. Have a good one.

Another welcome! The good news is that pristine water often heals fin rot! Once you get a Master Kit you can test your tap water & may be pleased to discover you can use that! We will see.

Thank you so much for the welcome. I am following the advice dutifully. Have great one!

Welcome to fishlore RaeAnna

you're in good hands. DylanM is giving you great advice.... I just wanted to say welcome & don't freak out. pet stores never tell you this stuff when you start out with fish. but this forum will help!! good luck

Thank you so much for the welcome. It's true they do not tell you anything when you purchase one and require you to buy the bare minimum for the. I think it's mean the way they sell betta's at the stores. Have a great one!