10 Gallon Tank Urgent: Betta acting odd and torn fins - Page 2

SavTheArtist

Tank
What is the water volume of the tank?
10 gallons

How long has the tank been running?
A little over a year

Does it have a filter?
Yes

Does it have a heater?
Yes

What is the water temperature?
About 80°F

What is the entire stocking of this tank? (Please list all fish and inverts.)
1 Betta
1 nerite


Maintenance
How often do you change the water?
A couple times a month

How much of the water do you change?
30-50%

What do you use to treat your water?
Prime

Do you vacuum the substrate or just the water?
Use a turkey baster to vacuum

*Parameters - Very Important
Did you cycle your tank before adding fish?
Yep!

What do you use to test the water?
Chameleon strips

What are your parameters? We need to know the exact numbers, not just “fine” or “safe”.
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0-5 or 0-10 (practically none)
pH: 7.5

It's a well planted tank

Feeding
How often do you feed your fish?
Twice a day

How much do you feed your fish?
Two pellets per meal

What brand of food do you feed your fish?
Aqueon

Do you feed frozen or freeze-dried foods?
Not as of now

Illness & Symptoms
How long have you had this fish?
Almost 7 months

How long ago did you first notice these symptoms?
A few days ago for fins, now for behavior

In a few words, can you explain the symptoms?
Fins appear torn, hiding, swimming a bit odd

Have you started any treatment for the illness?
Not yet

Was your fish physically ill or injured upon purchase?
He was in filthy water but nothing visibly wrong

How has its behavior and appearance changed, if at all?
His fins look a bit torn, something like fin biting. He's hiding a bit now, seemed to be swimming at the slightest angle (no pineconing or bloat)



Explain your emergency situation in detail. (Please give a clear explanation of what is going on, include details from the beginning of the illness leading up to now)

^^
 

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SavTheArtist

Sorry for the late reply! What are the ingredients in your Shrimp pellets?
No worries friend! They're the Omega One pellets-

Ingredients in the pic!
Sorry for the late reply! What are the ingredients in your Shrimp pellets?
Also; he does seem to be having a lot of trouble breathing. Do you think I can put the bubbler in, at least for tonight?
 

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Upvote 0

Aguasfrescas

I just checked your pictures again and noticed your water line is very far below the minimum water line marker on your heater. To avoid having the heater blow and cook your betta, I'd highly suggest you add more water. There's a wiggly line on that heater which is where the water line needs to be for the heater to function properly. Are you using an old school thermometer or a digital?
Abnormal and erratic swimming behavior is a hallmark sign of too little oxygen. I would advise using the bubbler ASAP when I consider your other variables(high altitude, planted tank, a betta who is already stressed.) You might be surprised at how drastic the change can be.
 
Upvote 0

SavTheArtist

Abnormal and erratic swimming behavior is a hallmark sign of too little oxygen. I would advise using the bubbler ASAP when I consider your other variables(high altitude, planted tank, a betta who is already stressed.) You might be surprised at how drastic the change can be.
Thank you so much- I'll set it up now
 
Upvote 0

Aguasfrescas

Abnormal and erratic swimming behavior is a hallmark sign of too little oxygen. I would advise using the bubbler ASAP when I consider your other variables(high altitude, planted tank, a betta who is already stressed.) You might be surprised at how drastic the change can be.
Sorry this was supposed to be a reply to OP not fishstery.
 
Upvote 0

JustAFishServant

I would have to disagree with others about the food they are suggesting. While I do agree you should switch to a better brand of pellets (personally I use Hikari micro pellets...very small and perfect size for bettas and pretty well rounded ingredients+higher protein value) I would highly advise against using bloodworms as a regular dietary supplement. Bloodworms should be given as a special treat here and there, but they can very easily make bettas constipated. You are gutloading your betta quite a bit, I only feed mine 5-6 pellets once a day, and I also fast mine once a week. 2-3 times a week I feed them frozen daphnia, a much better source of protein for bettas specifically because they are more prone to bloat and constipation than other fish. Daphnia is also a great fishy laxative, so incorporating it into their diet on a regular basis will help avoid any digestive issues from gutloading dried pellet or flake during the rest of the week. Just feed the dapnia slowly using a pipette to avoid uneaten waste. They are also much smaller than bloodworms and easy to eat. As for his health issues, I would advise in getting a proper test kit (most members here including myself use API liquid master kit) it's an initial investment but it will last you 2 years or more of testing. Test strips are notoriously in accurate. It could be your nitrates are higher than the test is showing, would might have something to do with him looking like he's under the weather.
I absolutely agree, in fact I avoid Bloodworms altogether! I much prefer Mosquito Larvae, Daphnia/Moina, Brine Shrimp, Blackworms, Black Soldier Fly Larvae, marine Fish eggs, river Shrimp, Clams, and sometimes Fruit Flies!

SavTheArtist
The unfortunate thing about Bloodworms is that they're not all that nutritious, nor do they have digestive benefits as I believe Fishstery mentioned? This is likely because Bloodworms are the larval stage of Midge Flies, many of which feed on the blood from livestock like Horses. The proteins and most minerals found in blood degrade fairly quickly, but because most of the other species I mentioned above feed off of algae this isn't such a problem.

The only thing I would suggest is to try and stay away from live foods (especially Tubifex) if at all possible. If raised improperly, live foods can contain parasites or infections that can spread to our fish, and even though I always suggest live, that's the last thing your Finnegan should have to deal with :)

No worries friend! They're the Omega One pellets-

Ingredients in the pic!

Also; he does seem to be having a lot of trouble breathing. Do you think I can put the bubbler in, at least for tonight?
The ingredients look good especially with whole fish being the first two ingredients, but wheat germ is the third. What germ is essential for Goldfish, for instance, because of their high carb needs. Bettas really don't need high carb because they mainly feed on animal products in the wild.

You want to look for 40-80% protein, 4-8% fat, and 2-4% fiber. My favorite brands include Omega One Betta Buffet pellets or flakes, NLS (especially for older Bettas or those with digestive issues), Fluval Bug Bites, Invert Aquatics Extreme Color or Ultimate Betta Bits, and Top Fin Pro Series Betta Crumbles (which I never thought I would say!)

Yep, and as Aguafrescas mentioned I would also advise using the air stone. I've actually cured swim bladder infections in Goldfish and minnows before! I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work here :)
 
Upvote 0

SavTheArtist

I absolutely agree, in fact I avoid Bloodworms altogether! I much prefer Mosquito Larvae, Daphnia/Moina, Brine Shrimp, Blackworms, Black Soldier Fly Larvae, marine Fish eggs, river Shrimp, Clams, and sometimes Fruit Flies!

SavTheArtist
The unfortunate thing about Bloodworms is that they're not all that nutritious, nor do they have digestive benefits as I believe Fishstery mentioned? This is likely because Bloodworms are the larval stage of Midge Flies, many of which feed on the blood from livestock like Horses. The proteins and most minerals found in blood degrade fairly quickly, but because most of the other species I mentioned above feed off of algae this isn't such a problem.

The only thing I would suggest is to try and stay away from live foods (especially Tubifex) if at all possible. If raised improperly, live foods can contain parasites or infections that can spread to our fish, and even though I always suggest live, that's the last thing your Finnegan should have to deal with :)


The ingredients look good especially with whole fish being the first two ingredients, but wheat germ is the third. What germ is essential for Goldfish, for instance, because of their high carb needs. Bettas really don't need high carb because they mainly feed on animal products in the wild.

You want to look for 40-80% protein, 4-8% fat, and 2-4% fiber. My favorite brands include Omega One Betta Buffet pellets or flakes, NLS (especially for older Bettas or those with digestive issues), Fluval Bug Bites, Invert Aquatics Extreme Color or Ultimate Betta Bits, and Top Fin Pro Series Betta Crumbles (which I never thought I would say!)

Yep, and as Aguafrescas mentioned I would also advise using the air stone. I've actually cured swim bladder infections in Goldfish and minnows before! I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work here :)
GAH! So much great information. You guys are all Lifesavers.

Should i avoid the frozen bloodworms then? I'm planning on looking into bug bites as fluval is a brand I'm familiar with.

Should I avoid the pellets too?

I put the air stone in there! It's going, and I'm hoping he'll sense it and be able to breathe a bit easier soon
 
Upvote 0

Aguasfrescas

GAH! So much great information. You guys are all Lifesavers.

Should i avoid the frozen bloodworms then? I'm planning on looking into bug bites as fluval is a brand I'm familiar with.

Should I avoid the pellets too?

I put the air stone in there! It's going, and I'm hoping he'll sense it and be able to breathe a bit easier soon
Oh yea it should be quite the relief for him as long as the setting is just a nice steady stream of light bubbles. nothing that is strong enough to push him around. Goodnight hope to hear some good news in the morning!
 
Upvote 0

JustAFishServant

GAH! So much great information. You guys are all Lifesavers.

Should i avoid the frozen bloodworms then? I'm planning on looking into bug bites as fluval is a brand I'm familiar with.

Should I avoid the pellets too?

I put the air stone in there! It's going, and I'm hoping he'll sense it and be able to breathe a bit easier soon
Sorry if we're overloading you with info! It's just what us crazy enthusiast do XD

Pellets are perfectly fine, in fact it's usually what I feed as a staple, as long as you soak them beforehand.
 
Upvote 0

Cherryshrimp420

Despite what people claim, Ive kept my fish successfully with 1-2 pellets a day in FULLY planted tanks (which OP has). The result speaks more than opinion, and proof that it is perfectly possible and the fish wont starve.

Of course, tanks vary and in lowly planted tanks/bare tanks the overall bioload may not be enough to support a betta outside of your feeding regimen. Temperature also plays a factor, every 10°C increase leads to doubling of metabolism and thus double the food intake.

Bloodworms are not inherently bad, it also depends on what was fed to the bloodworms, which means there is a quality difference between brands of bloodworms. IMO it is still better than OP's Aqueon food as a protein supplement which is why I suggested to feed more bloodworms FOR NOW. NLS and Omega One are still the preferred IMO
 
Upvote 0

Fishstery

Despite what people claim, Ive kept my fish successfully with 1-2 pellets a day in FULLY planted tanks (which OP has). The result speaks more than opinion, and proof that it is perfectly possible and the fish wont starve.

Of course, tanks vary and in lowly planted tanks/bare tanks the overall bioload may not be enough to support a betta outside of your feeding regimen. Temperature also plays a factor, every 10°C increase leads to doubling of metabolism and thus double the food intake.

Bloodworms are not inherently bad, it also depends on what was fed to the bloodworms, which means there is a quality difference between brands of bloodworms. IMO it is still better than OP's Aqueon food as a protein supplement which is why I suggested to feed more bloodworms FOR NOW. NLS and Omega One are still the preferred IMO
I dunno, I use cobalt micro blood worms for my puffers and was feeding them to my bettas, and my newer plakat who has a very large body and is a big boy (almost thought he was a she just because of how stocky his body is) and the second time I fed him a bloodworm he got very constipated and truthfully I am a less is more kind of gal when it comes to feeding. He didn't poop for about 3 days and I was getting very nervous. Thankfully a little bit of daphnia and flaring sessions and he finally relieved himself, but after that I swore off bloodworms for my bettas and just use daphnia now to err on the side of caution. My other plakat never got constipated from bloodworms however. I used to feed my fish live blackworms because my scarlet badis would only eat live, but I lost all my badis to a parasite introduced by the live worms, so I stay away from those now too.
 
Upvote 0

Aguasfrescas

I dunno, I use cobalt micro blood worms for my puffers and was feeding them to my bettas, and my newer plakat who has a very large body and is a big boy (almost thought he was a she just because of how stocky his body is) and the second time I fed him a bloodworm he got very constipated and truthfully I am a less is more kind of gal when it comes to feeding. He didn't poop for about 3 days and I was getting very nervous. Thankfully a little bit of daphnia and flaring sessions and he finally relieved himself, but after that I swore off bloodworms for my bettas and just use daphnia now to err on the side of caution. My other plakat never got constipated from bloodworms however. I used to feed my fish live blackworms because my scarlet badis would only eat live, but I lost all my badis to a parasite introduced by the live worms, so I stay away from those now too.
Okay this is the info I’ve been looking for on why experienced fish keepers avoid bloodworms. Thank you for sharing!
 
Upvote 0

Cherryshrimp420

I dunno, I use cobalt micro blood worms for my puffers and was feeding them to my bettas, and my newer plakat who has a very large body and is a big boy (almost thought he was a she just because of how stocky his body is) and the second time I fed him a bloodworm he got very constipated and truthfully I am a less is more kind of gal when it comes to feeding. He didn't poop for about 3 days and I was getting very nervous. Thankfully a little bit of daphnia and flaring sessions and he finally relieved himself, but after that I swore off bloodworms for my bettas and just use daphnia now to err on the side of caution. My other plakat never got constipated from bloodworms however. I used to feed my fish live blackworms because my scarlet badis would only eat live, but I lost all my badis to a parasite introduced by the live worms, so I stay away from those now too.

Are you talking about "freeze-dried" or "frozen" bloodworms? Seems like that brand is frozen which is quite different from freeze-dried which OP has. Freeze dried is just like any generic fish food, I've never any issue feeding them. The frozen ones can actually expire and should be treated like raw meat. The idea is to buy them fresh and feed them quickly.
 
Upvote 0

Fishstery

Okay this is the info I’ve been looking for on why experienced fish keepers avoid bloodworms. Thank you for sharing!
I dont avoid bloodworms with all fish. It really depends. For bettas I for sure am staying away from them from now on. My feeding schedule is now high quality micro pellets with daphnia 2-3 times a week and one day fast. My pea puffers however get fed strictly bloodworms every day with an occasional fast every other week or so. Cobalt is a reputable brand, so my puffers are proof that brand and what the worms are really don't decide on if it will hurt your fishes digestive tract, I just know bettas in particular have finicky digestive systems which is why I
Are you talking about "freeze-dried" or "frozen" bloodworms? Seems like that brand is frozen which is quite different from freeze-dried which OP has. Freeze dried is just like any generic fish food, I've never any issue feeding them. The frozen ones can actually expire and should be treated like raw meat. The idea is to buy them fresh and feed them quickly.
Frozen. I don't use freeze dried. I think feeding freeze dried worms kind of defeats the purpose of feeding meaty foods since I'm sure it looses a good bit of its nutritional value when it's preserved this way. My packages of frozen foods last me up to 4 months and I will feed it until the last cube is gone. I've never had any issues with an expiration of the frozen foods. The only time I won't feed the cubes is if the foil gets torn on a cube towards the end of the package and it was like that for a few weeks and has freezer burn (if you use the frozen cubes you know what I mean...when trying to push a cube out sometimes it opens the foil on another cube). My position on the food isn't whether bloodworms are good or bad. It's that bloodworms are known to cause bloat and constipation in bettas specifically if fed too much or too often, and IMO/experience frozen daphnia is a much better alternative per bettas digestive system, stomach and mouth size, and nutritional needs specifically. Again I'm not saying never ever feed a betta a bloodworm, I'm just suggesting not to do it often, and especially not to do it multiple times a week in conjunction with dried flake or pellet. Daphnia is a known laxative for constipated bettas, so I find it more productive to use this as my bettas supplement in their diet, to ease the digestion of the dried foods that they eat most of the time.
 
Upvote 0

Cherryshrimp420

I dont avoid bloodworms with all fish. It really depends. For bettas I for sure am staying away from them from now on. My feeding schedule is now high quality micro pellets with daphnia 2-3 times a week and one day fast. My pea puffers however get fed strictly bloodworms every day with an occasional fast every other week or so. Cobalt is a reputable brand, so my puffers are proof that brand and what the worms are really don't decide on if it will hurt your fishes digestive tract, I just know bettas in particular have finicky digestive systems which is why I
Frozen. I don't use freeze dried. I think feeding freeze dried worms kind of defeats the purpose of feeding meaty foods since I'm sure it looses a good bit of its nutritional value when it's preserved this way. My packages of frozen foods last me up to 4 months and I will feed it until the last cube is gone. I've never had any issues with an expiration of the frozen foods. The only time I won't feed the cubes is if the foil gets torn on a cube towards the end of the package and it was like that for a few weeks and has freezer burn (if you use the frozen cubes you know what I mean...when trying to push a cube out sometimes it opens the foil on another cube). My position on the food isn't whether bloodworms are good or bad. It's that bloodworms are known to cause bloat and constipation in bettas specifically if fed too much or too often, and IMO/experience frozen daphnia is a much better alternative per bettas digestive system, stomach and mouth size, and nutritional needs specifically. Again I'm not saying never ever feed a betta a bloodworm, I'm just suggesting not to do it often, and especially not to do it multiple times a week in conjunction with dried flake or pellet. Daphnia is a known laxative for constipated bettas, so I find it more productive to use this as my bettas supplement in their diet, to ease the digestion of the dried foods that they eat most of the time.

Im not sure that freeze dried loses nutritional value. Here is an article on the topic: Freeze-Dried Food Versus Dehydrated Food: What's the Difference? | Harvest Right™ | Home Freeze Dryers | Freeze Dried Food Storage

Freeze dried food retains 97% of the nutritional value. Anyways I've never had bloat or constipation issues in bettas or any other fish from extended feeding of bloodworms so I guess our experiences differ
 
Upvote 0

Aguasfrescas

I dont avoid bloodworms with all fish. It really depends. For bettas I for sure am staying away from them from now on. My feeding schedule is now high quality micro pellets with daphnia 2-3 times a week and one day fast. My pea puffers however get fed strictly bloodworms every day with an occasional fast every other week or so. Cobalt is a reputable brand, so my puffers are proof that brand and what the worms are really don't decide on if it will hurt your fishes digestive tract, I just know bettas in particular have finicky digestive systems which is why I
Frozen. I don't use freeze dried. I think feeding freeze dried worms kind of defeats the purpose of feeding meaty foods since I'm sure it looses a good bit of its nutritional value when it's preserved this way. My packages of frozen foods last me up to 4 months and I will feed it until the last cube is gone. I've never had any issues with an expiration of the frozen foods. The only time I won't feed the cubes is if the foil gets torn on a cube towards the end of the package and it was like that for a few weeks and has freezer burn (if you use the frozen cubes you know what I mean...when trying to push a cube out sometimes it opens the foil on another cube). My position on the food isn't whether bloodworms are good or bad. It's that bloodworms are known to cause bloat and constipation in bettas specifically if fed too much or too often, and IMO/experience frozen daphnia is a much better alternative per bettas digestive system, stomach and mouth size, and nutritional needs specifically. Again I'm not saying never ever feed a betta a bloodworm, I'm just suggesting not to do it often, and especially not to do it multiple times a week in conjunction with dried flake or pellet. Daphnia is a known laxative for constipated bettas, so I find it more productive to use this as my bettas supplement in their diet, to ease the digestion of the dried foods that they eat most of the time.
Ahhh that makes sense. Different fish are going to have different nutritional needs. I am a total noob when it comes to fish. My betta Cloud is the first fish I’ve had besides a betta when I was very young that my mom took care of lol. Thanks for making that more clear for me as I am looking into setting up a 45 gallon and need to learn more about fish besides bettas. And yes freeze dried food only retains macro nutrients(protein, fats, fiber, carbs). It eliminates micro/phyto(vitamins and minerals as well as trace elements that are very important for cellular functions.)
 
Upvote 0

Aguasfrescas

Just wanted to check in and see if your guy is doing better. Also surviving isn’t the same as thriving. A quote I’ve seen on several websites while trying to find out how much to feed. A fish can prob survive being fed every 3rd day once a day but it probably won’t thrive. Also this is going to vary from fish to fish just like caloric need is going to vary from person to person. The first beta I owned when I was much younger we fed 3 pellets a day and she was very healthy and lived almost 4 years. I tried the same for Cloud and found him to be mildly lethargic and he would nip at plant life more often than a typical curious betta would. Since I upped his feeding which had been for the past 3 months he has grown quicker and it is quite apparent he’s a happier healthier fish. Each is different but I know it is better to err on the side of less and make sure they are maintaining a healthy body shape.
I know more experienced members already know this but I’m posting for the guy who just looks this stuff up and silently reads posts. I had found a really useful chart indicating appropriate body size if I can find it I’ll link.
Determining proper body size is easiest if you are getting a birds eye view(from above). Basically a very emaciated underweight fish looks like a ball on a stick skull and other bone structure may be prominent.
Ideal betta weight would look like a smooth taper with a full area around the head into the stomach that tapers smoothly into the thin tail fin.
An over weight betta will literally look like a tube.
Anything more drastic than that is severe and probably bloat or something else disease related like dropsy.
 
Upvote 0

SavTheArtist

Just wanted to check in and see if your guy is doing better. Also surviving isn’t the same as thriving. A quote I’ve seen on several websites while trying to find out how much to feed. A fish can prob survive being fed every 3rd day once a day but it probably won’t thrive. Also this is going to vary from fish to fish just like caloric need is going to vary from person to person. The first beta I owned when I was much younger we fed 3 pellets a day and she was very healthy and lived almost 4 years. I tried the same for Cloud and found him to be mildly lethargic and he would nip at plant life more often than a typical curious betta would. Since I upped his feeding which had been for the past 3 months he has grown quicker and it is quite apparent he’s a happier healthier fish. Each is different but I know it is better to err on the side of less and make sure they are maintaining a healthy body shape.
I know more experienced members already know this but I’m posting for the guy who just looks this stuff up and silently reads posts. I had found a really useful chart indicating appropriate body size if I can find it I’ll link.
Determining proper body size is easiest if you are getting a birds eye view(from above). Basically a very emaciated underweight fish looks like a ball on a stick skull and other bone structure may be prominent.
Ideal betta weight would look like a smooth taper with a full area around the head into the stomach that tapers smoothly into the thin tail fin.
An over weight betta will literally look like a tube.
Anything more drastic than that is severe and probably bloat or something else disease related like dropsy.
Update for y'all:

Since I put the bubbler in there and did a tiny water change, I saw some improvement. He's been a little more active and out there. Still hiding, having some trouble breathing, and floating/swimming weirdly


He gave me and my mom the scare of our lives this morning, was floating on the surface and not visibly breathing. He's laying around near the bottom and in random spots as well. He looks uncomfortable and ill, but there's nothing visibly wrong! I'm stumped.

Temps resting at around 80-81°, water is testing fine. Plants are all healthy and thriving and so is the snail.

I'm really worried about my little dude and I just want to help him, agh.

Sorry if we're overloading you with info! It's just what us crazy enthusiast do XD

Pellets are perfectly fine, in fact it's usually what I feed as a staple, as long as you soak them beforehand.
Ah, I was talking about the shrimp pellets XD!
 
Upvote 0

Aguasfrescas

Update for y'all:

Since I put the bubbler in there and did a tiny water change, I saw some improvement. He's been a little more active and out there. Still hiding, having some trouble breathing, and floating/swimming weirdly.


He gave me and my mom the scare of our lives this morning, was floating on the surface and not visibly breathing. He's laying around near the bottom and in random spots as well. He looks uncomfortable and ill, but there's nothing visibly wrong! I'm stumped.

Temps resting at around 80-81°, water is testing fine. Plants are all healthy and thriving and so is the snail.

I'm really worried about my little dude and I just want to help him, agh.


Ah, I was talking about the shrimp pellets XD!
Improvements definitely good I’m glad to hear it. I know my guy will just float around the surface when sleeping usually he rests on something but I’ve seen him just float around. If he’s still having swimming/buoyancy issues it could be swim bladder disease. Which a fast day or two a long with the bubbler could help. Just my novice two cents. Maybe someone else will reaffirm or provide additional possibilities.
My guy showed a drastic improvement especially in behavior even one day after the air stone. It still took several days before his swimming and buoyancy issues subsided but his don’t sound like they were as severe as Finnegans(swimming upside down for example.)
 
Upvote 0

SavTheArtist

Improvements definitely good I’m glad to hear it. I know my guy will just float around the surface when sleeping usually he rests on something but I’ve seen him just float around. If he’s still having swimming/buoyancy issues it could be swim bladder disease. Which a fast day or two a long with the bubbler could help. Just my novice two cents. Maybe someone else will reaffirm or provide additional possibilities.
My guy showed a drastic improvement especially in behavior even one day after the air stone. It still took several days before his swimming and buoyancy issues subsided but his don’t sound like they were as severe as Finnegans(swimming upside down for example.)
Thank you! Yes, improvement is improvement. Finnegan fins are just looking worse.... They seem more torn.

He hasn't eaten anything today, so I'll start a 2 day fast starting today! I'll monitor him and check to see if he poops.

I tried to feed him before logging on to check in, but he wasn't able to catch any food and is still very skittish.

It almost seems like he might be going slightly blind? Or having trouble seeing? He's always had trouble with depth perception and such, but now he's just totally missing all food and very easily scared. Is there anything that can cause blindness that quick like that?
 
Upvote 0

Aguasfrescas

Thank you! Yes, improvement is improvement. Finnegan fins are just looking worse.... They seem more torn.

He hasn't eaten anything today, so I'll start a 2 day fast starting today! I'll monitor him and check to see if he poops.

I tried to feed him before logging on to check in, but he wasn't able to catch any food and is still very skittish.

It almost seems like he might be going slightly blind? Or having trouble seeing? He's always had trouble with depth perception and such, but now he's just totally missing all food and very easily scared. Is there anything that can cause blindness that quick like that?
Swim bladder often happens as a result of bloat. Long term bloat can cause dropsy which I’m sure you’re aware of and I don’t think that’s it but if you start seeing him pine cone then I’d be worried about that. But with constipation/bloat the stomach over expands and fish lose control over the gas intake and output of their swim bladder leads to the abnormal swimming particularly the upside down swimming.
Also this extra pressure puts strain on all the other organs making them perform poorly. If you can visibly see a distended belly or bulging eyes then this is very likely what’s happened and two fast days followed by a good moderate feeding schedule should resolve. Dropsy is much less survivable/ curable. It also could be the genetics of your betta or he’s just nervous and still recovering.
Sometimes Cloud acts skittish for seemingly no reason. If you have frozen food or even with your pellets you could take a betta hammock/ log/ any surface near the waterline and let his food sink onto the surface and then he won’t be as skittish and less likely to miss food. Usually he eats out of my hand but if he’s feeling shy I can leave food on one of these surfaces and he can calmly graze at his own pace.
Swim bladder often happens as a result of bloat. Long term bloat can cause dropsy which I’m sure you’re aware of and I don’t think that’s it but if you start seeing him pine cone then I’d be worried about that. But with constipation/bloat the stomach over expands and fish lose control over the gas intake and output of their swim bladder leads to the abnormal swimming particularly the upside down swimming.
Also this extra pressure puts strain on all the other organs making them perform poorly. If you can visibly see a distended belly or bulging eyes then this is very likely what’s happened and two fast days followed by a good moderate feeding schedule should resolve. Dropsy is much less survivable/ curable. It also could be the genetics of your betta or he’s just nervous and still recovering.
Sometimes Cloud acts skittish for seemingly no reason. If you have frozen food or even with your pellets you could take a betta hammock/ log/ any surface near the waterline and let his food sink onto the surface and then he won’t be as skittish and less likely to miss food. Usually he eats out of my hand but if he’s feeling shy I can leave food on one of these surfaces and he can calmly graze at his own pace.
If his fins are turning black and degrading I would try treating for bacterial fin rot. If they have white spots it could be fungal fin rot or columnaris. Depending on how severe and close to the body the rot is you could treat with large daily water changes (75-100%) and a hefty tablespoon of aquarium salt added with each change. Severe should be treated with erythromycin for bacterial. Or pimafix for fungus.
 
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SavTheArtist

Hello everyone.

So- here's an update.

Finny's just generally not doing well. He's hiding, has been laying upside down on the bottom, and will not come out to eat or interact at all anymore.

He's still breathing a bit heavy. The tank is testing out entirely fine as well


I've just done around a 40% water change, not too much so that I don't shock him.

I can tell that he's struggling, but he's trying very hard to hold on for me.

I don't think there's really anything else I can do. He has no physical symptoms of anything; no ick, no fungus, no black fins. Just the torn ones.

I appreciate all of your help so much, but I think all that I can do is make him as comfortable as possible.

Thank you guys for all that you've done
 
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Aguasfrescas

Hello everyone.

So- here's an update.

Finny's just generally not doing well. He's hiding, has been laying upside down on the bottom, and will not come out to eat or interact at all anymore.

He's still breathing a bit heavy. The tank is testing out entirely fine as well


I've just done around a 40% water change, not too much so that I don't shock him.

I can tell that he's struggling, but he's trying very hard to hold on for me.

I don't think there's really anything else I can do. He has no physical symptoms of anything; no ick, no fungus, no black fins. Just the torn ones.

I appreciate all of your help so much, but I think all that I can do is make him as comfortable as possible.

Thank you guys for all that you've done
I am so sorry I hope that he can pull through even tho it feels beyond hope. You have tried a lot and I’m sure he feels cared for.
 
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SavTheArtist

I am so sorry I hope that he can pull through even tho it feels beyond hope. You have tried a lot and I’m sure he feels cared for.
Thank you,, I've been trying to still foster a bit of hope, but he seems to get weaker by the day.

I've done my best, I just wish I could've helped more.
 
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Aguasfrescas

Thank you,, I've been trying to still foster a bit of hope, but he seems to get weaker by the day.

I've done my best, I just wish I could've helped more.
Yea
Thank you,, I've been trying to still foster a bit of hope, but he seems to get weaker by the day.

I've done my best, I just wish I could've helped more.
Such delicate but beautiful creatures. The hard part of fishkeeping but the little spitfire spirit they have make it so worth it. I believe with short lived beings like bettas quality is more important than quantity. All we can do is our best and it’s obvious that you have.
 
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