Update: Betta Tail Looking Shredded?!?

ksteff16
  • #1
I’ve had bettas since I was a child, but I only recently learned about the proper environment they need (tanks vs. vases, temps, etc.)

I got my betta in November and was letting my 2.6 gal Fluval Spec tank cycle, but felt bad about him being stuck in a cup so I used Imaginarium Bio Booster to quick-start the tank. Once the ammonia tests read as safe, I put him in. He also has a heater that keeps the water at 78 degrees and a java fern & moss ball. He loved the bigger area and has been active ever since. However, I noticed in December that his fin has begun to wear away. It looks like the tip is missing. (See pic) Everything I’ve seen online says it is fin rot and to treat with water changes and aquarium salt. I’ve been doing 50-80% water changes every 2-3 days and adding 1/2 the suggested dose of salt when I change the water.


4EC8C430-F8BB-48EB-8D71-CF9D1F3FEA3E.jpeg

His tail has not gotten worse, but also doesn’t seem any better. I’m also struggling with the tank to keep it clean. I’ve had to use a cylindrical sponge filter to cover the outflow from the pump since the current is a little strong and he likes to swim into it. It was starting to make him flare a lot and looked like he was going to get injured by it if it wasn’t covered. However, the reduced current has made the water get dirty very quickly. I’m trying my best to keep vacuuming his waste up from the sand with each water change as well. I included a pic of the tank as it looks today after doing a thorough clean on Saturday. Already cloudy and green...


BF4ADBDD-F811-4E0E-9744-35046D683E4C.jpeg

I’m not sure whether to keep up what I’m doing or if I’m simply harming Norman (my betta) with what I’ve been doing so far. Any advice is appreciated!
 
emmysjj
  • #2
Abby565
  • #3
Stop using salt. Do 50% water changes everyday with a good water conditioner (like prime). A lot of problems can be solved by water changes. His tail looks like it was caught on something or he bit it, not really fin for but it still could be.
Luckily, the cloudy water looks like a bacteria bloom, which isn't harmful except it might mean your tank is still cycling. What are the nitrite readings?
 
KakeHugs
  • #4
I don't see fin rot, follow what Abby is saying ^
Stop using salt
 
ksteff16
  • Thread Starter
  • #5
I do use Prime. Water parameters are:
pH- 7
Nitrite- 0
Nitrate- 0
Ammonia- 0
This reading is from an API strip. I recently learned that it’s not the most accurate method so I have a master kit on order from Amazon.

I do have a piece of driftwood in the tank with him. Could that be what’s tearing his tail fin? He also likes to hang out by the filter intake slots so I’ve wondered about that as well.

Could cloudiness be caused by the biofilter media being clogged? I haven’t changed it since I started the tank for fear of removing too much good bacteria. How do I change it without messing up the tank environment?
 
glenCOCO
  • #6
A reading of all 0’s is a little odd, hopefully the master kit shows different. It doesn’t look like tearing from something in the tank, it would look shredded if it was. Also the flow at the top intake of the spec wouldn’t be strong enough to do that kind of damage, if it is infact some kind of damage. The bottom intake can be pretty strong, have you noticed if he’s affected at all while swimming close to it? Maybe plug it just to be safe? I put an old credit card up against the sponge on the inside to plug it to keep it from sucking up my baby cherry shrimp. I highly doubt that the filter is clogged. It does look bacterial though. Maybe the sand? Did you rinse the sand before you put it in? Do you kick it up at all when cleaning the tank? Do you have the pump on the lowest setting AND have the sponge on? I would have the pump at max while the sponge is on to get any kind of decent flow throughout the tank.
 
Abby565
  • #7
I do use Prime. Water parameters are:
pH- 7
Nitrite- 0
Nitrate- 0
Ammonia- 0
This reading is from an API strip. I recently learned that it’s not the most accurate method so I have a master kit on order from Amazon.

I do have a piece of driftwood in the tank with him. Could that be what’s tearing his tail fin? He also likes to hang out by the filter intake slots so I’ve wondered about that as well.

Could cloudiness be caused by the biofilter media being clogged? I haven’t changed it since I started the tank for fear of removing too much good bacteria. How do I change it without messing up the tank environment?

Ok. Parameters look good, the nitrates are 0 because you have been doing all of those water changes!

Both or one of those could be the culprit. Run your fingers over the wood to check for sharp spots and put some filter sponge over the intake of the filter.

As I said, I think the cloudiness is a bacterial bloom, not dirty water. You can rinse the filter media in old tank water to clean it. You only need to replace it if it is falling apart. Unless you have carbon in your filter, carbon needs to be changed every couple of months. I personally don't use carbon in my filters.
 

ksteff16
  • Thread Starter
  • #8
A reading of all 0’s is a little odd, hopefully the master kit shows different. It doesn’t look like tearing from something in the tank, it would look shredded if it was. Also the flow at the top intake of the spec wouldn’t be strong enough to do that kind of damage, if it is infact some kind of damage. The bottom intake can be pretty strong, have you noticed if he’s affected at all while swimming close to it? Maybe plug it just to be safe? I put an old credit card up against the sponge on the inside to plug it to keep it from sucking up my baby cherry shrimp. I highly doubt that the filter is clogged. It does look bacterial though. Maybe the sand? Did you rinse the sand before you put it in? Do you kick it up at all when cleaning the tank? Do you have the pump on the lowest setting AND have the sponge on? I would have the pump at max while the sponge is on to get any kind of decent flow throughout the tank.

I haven’t noticed anything with the bottom intake, but I’ll plug it just to be safe. I do tend to catch some sand when vacuuming. Should I avoid moving it at all? And yes, the pump is on the highest setting with the sponge filter on it.

His tail does look a bit shredded, this is the best angle I could get, as he’s super active whenever I come near. The one pointed longer piece is what worries me. It doesn’t come to a rounded point like his bottom fin.

C0CC08E2-96BC-43EA-BF91-186FDFF67E3D.jpeg
 
ksteff16
  • Thread Starter
  • #9
Ok. Parameters look good, the nitrates are 0 because you have been doing all of those water changes!

Both or one of those could be the culprit. Run your fingers over the wood to check for sharp spots and put some filter sponge over the intake of the filter.

As I said, I think the cloudiness is a bacterial bloom, not dirty water. You can rinse the filter media in old tank water to clean it. You only need to replace it if it is falling apart. Unless you have carbon in your filter, carbon needs to be changed every couple of months. I personally don't use carbon in my filters.

I checked on the wood yesterday and there were quite a few rougher spots, so I sanded those down as much as possible. I’ll also cover the intake vents.

As for the bacterial bloom, is that something that will go away on its own or is there something else I should be doing?

Lastly, how long do you think I should keep up the daily water changes? In the freshwater beginner guide, it said that water changes should be done once a week. Will I ever get to that point or should my routine always stay at daily water changes?

Thanks for all your help!
 
Abby565
  • #10
I checked on the wood yesterday and there were quite a few rougher spots, so I sanded those down as much as possible. I’ll also cover the intake vents.

As for the bacterial bloom, is that something that will go away on its own or is there something else I should be doing?

Lastly, how long do you think I should keep up the daily water changes? In the freshwater beginner guide, it said that water changes should be done once a week. Will I ever get to that point or should my routine always stay at daily water changes?

Thanks for all your help!

The bloom will go away on its own, don't worry.

You can probably do 50% every other day until the tail heals. Once it does, since it is a small tank, you can do 50% once or twice a week.
 
ksteff16
  • Thread Starter
  • #11
The bloom will go away on its own, don't worry.

You can probably do 50% every other day until the tail heals. Once it does, since it is a small tank, you can do 50% once or twice a week.

I noticed today before changing water that Norman’s fins are severely worse. Yesterday I noticed that they were looking a little bit off but thought I might be remembering where his tail was damaged wrong. Today it is obvious that it is bad though. They're very shredded and there's even a hole in one! See pic.


0CE7CBD3-26EF-4468-AF68-5B790C6C66CF.jpeg
There's also a spot on his head that's new. It's whitish-pink in color.

6EE51CE5-BB75-4480-B354-E78A29DBD0FD.jpeg
I'm very nervous that I did something wrong. The only things I've changed were sanding down the edges of the driftwood and stopping the aquarium salt. I haven't gotten a chance to buy anything to cover the filter slots yet but I didn't think it could get that bad that quickly in 2 days... I removed the driftwood in case it was that and replaced it with this coconut cave.

3C040613-950D-4969-8B12-3726C526183F.jpeg
He does seem to get bored so I don't know if he’s biting his tail or the wood or something is hurting him or if he’s sick. I tested the water before changing it today. pH- 7, Ammonia- 0, Nitrite- 0, Nitrate- 5

Please help! I'm so worried about my little guy...
 
Comet-Aurum
  • #12
Oh no!! I’ve had this problem once I think the white spots are ick.
And try to add some meliflix but be CAREFUL meliflix can kill a Betta
And what are you using to test the water?

Also add some ick cure

I hope your Betta will heal this is such a sad situation but so you know I will help any way I can.
 
Katie13
  • #13
Melafix tends to do more harm than good. It contains Tea-Tree oil which will coat a beta's labyrinth organ making it difficult for them to breath.
 
Comet-Aurum
  • #14
Really? I’ve added it to my Betta once and he breathed fine and was perfect and healed with it

That I find weird the meliflix I read and bought on the ingredients said 100% tea tree oil free.
 
emmysjj
  • #15
It either works fine or kills the fish. I would say too risky. The white spots I don't see on the fish, so that's probably sand.
 
ksteff16
  • Thread Starter
  • #16
Melafix tends to do more harm than good. It contains Tea-Tree oil which will coat a beta's labyrinth organ making it difficult for them to breath.

I've heard bad things about that and betafix as well. So I won't be using those. Any suggestions for what I should do?
 
Katie13
  • #17
I've heard bad things about that and betafix as well. So I won't be using those. Any suggestions for what I should do?
You’ve been doing daily water changes already?
 
glenCOCO
  • #18
Use stressguard and keep up with the water changes
 
ksteff16
  • Thread Starter
  • #19
You’ve been doing daily water changes already?

Usually daily, sometimes every other day.
 
Katie13
  • #20
Usually daily, sometimes every other day.
I would start a low dose of mess like Kordon Rapid-Cure, Jungle Fungus cleat, or even Kordon Rid Fungus.
 

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