I just wanna know what are some of your guys unpopular opinions when it comes to fish.
I think about the ammonia thing too. I see a lot we tell people that the API test will falsely read .25, which I’m sure is possible for as it is just a cheap chemistry set. But as you said you would almost always expect some trace since there is always food, waste, plants, etc Breaking down.Redshark1 said:Some say a shoal is six fish. But in nature the same fish shoals in hundreds or even thousands of individuals.
0.25 ammonia is fine. Ammonia is a natural occuring compound that is vital for life. It is found everywhere in nature in small doses because when any organic material breaks down ammonia is produced.
tell me more pleaseForceTen said:That cycling takes weeks and months. It does, but there are other options to waiting and testing.
Could you please elaborate? i like the sound of thisLeilio said:Don't keep the tank too clean, let the mulm accumulate, and establish a mini-ecosystem within the tank itself with various microorganisms and plants.
How Freshwater Deep Sand Beds Workxsalomexx said:Could you please elaborate? i like the sound of this
My fish have lived at 30-40 ppm for as long as ive been keeping fish. They still do goodCody said:This isn’t discounting proper/consistent tank maintenance but 40ppm nitrates is not going to instantly cause a fish to die.
Parameter chasing. I think people get super caught up on fish needing exact water parameters as in the wild. I think some of these farm/tank raised fish are so far removed that their adaptability and ability to thrive is understated. Again this is within reason like above.
There are products on the market like "Prime Stability" that allow introduction of fish almost immediately.xsalomexx said:
I do agree with this up to a point. Keep the water fresh and clean. The substrate, decor and tank walls not so much. Let a little but not too much "stuff" accumulate on those things. Some folks don't have the time or inclination but big weekly water changes are the secret to keeping a healthy tank.Leilio said:Don't keep the tank too clean, let the mulm accumulate, and establish a mini-ecosystem within the tank itself with various microorganisms and plants.
We only measure a few parameters. There are three major nutrient cycles: nitrogen, phosphorous, and carbon. Aquarists really only measure nitrogen. Dissolved organic carbon is much more dangerous than nitrate.Pfrozen said:Heres another one: I haven't cleaned my sponge filter once yet! It's been probably close to a month since I put it in. My shrimp are always all over it eating detritus and plant matter so why take away their buffet if my parameters are fine?
Can you elaborate a bit for me? Sounds importantAvalancheDave said:We only measure a few parameters. There are three major nutrient cycles: nitrogen, phosphorous, and carbon. Aquarists really only measure nitrogen. Dissolved organic carbon is much more dangerous than nitrate.
As a former pet store sales associate, I completely agree. Many customers have asked me if there's a chemical they can add that will get rid of 160ppm nitrates without having to do water changes. Then there's the reluctance when I say the best option is to change the water. It's not that tall of an order for a 10 gallon.Frank the Fish guy said:Bottles of things to add to the aquarium to solve problem, are mainly created by marketing people who know how to tap into people's inherent laziness, fear of losing their fish, and disposable income. The result is even often harm to the fish and lost money for the aquarist. But the seller really does not care. He is rewarded by how many bottles he sells through his mastery of the flawed human decision making process in an unregulated industry. There will always be another beginner to exploit.
Learning how the chemistry really works takes a long time, and results in a skilled aquarist who needs few additives, and thus make less money for the sellers.
With this in mind, most of the aquarium industry is therefore set up to exploit amateurs and beginners.
Yes and fish produce it 24/7 so there will always be some to test as it makes its way to the filter. A greater or lesser amount depending on the stocking.Cody said:I think about the ammonia thing too. I see a lot we tell people that the API test will falsely read .25, which I’m sure is possible for as it is just a cheap chemistry set. But as you said you would almost always expect some trace since there is always food, waste, plants, etc Breaking down.
If you plant up an aquarium but do not add any fish, leave it six weeks and it will be cycled ready for fish. Test this to confirm.xsalomexx said:
In many waterbodies such as some rivers and streams algae is the only plant present.Fishcat said:There’s nothing wrong with some visible algae. It’s just a less-formal plant.
Move over substrate and filter to a new tank. Instant cycle. I do this every year when I take the fish home from school for the summer vacation period.ForceTen said:That cycling takes weeks and months. It does, but there are other options to waiting and testing.
It is likely to be adding beneficial oxygen too.FishBoy101 said:The louder the filter, the better. I love the water noise
We don't know everything and cannot predict everything in this hobby. There will always be surprises waiting for us.Betta'sAnonymous said:Unpopular fish(and all other aspects of life)opinion: no matter what you do, even if you do everything perfect, nature ALWAYS going to get her way.
Yes, and I recommend focusing on one species without compromising it to fit in with other species.MacZ said:Low stocking density with few species and adequate numbers is often the better choice.
Totally agree. This is why I tell folks water changes will not remove all of the ammonia. There will always be some.Redshark1 said:Yes and fish produce it 24/7 so there will always be some to test as it makes its way to the filter. A greater or lesser amount depending on the stocking.
Are you saying a tank will cycle without an ammonia source and once fish are added there will be no spikes?If you plant up an aquarium but do not add any fish, leave it six weeks and it will be cycled ready for fish. Test this to confirm.
I used to use Bio Spira when it was sold in the refrigerator only. Also have used Tetra SafeStart Plus. I usually had the aquarium up and running for a few weeks to a month (the last time it was a month, planted). Anyway, it worked fine each time. Tested at 0 ammonia and 0 nitrites right away and stayed that way. You do get a gnarly biofilm on the top of the tank for a week but the water smells clean and testing is all good.ForceTen said:There are products on the market like "Prime Stability" that allow introduction of fish almost immediately.
In fact the instructions on the Stability bottle call for a week of treating the water, but allow for fish right away.
My LFS is an old man who has run the place for more than 40 years. He told me waiting for a natural cycle was not required and even told me he would replace any fish I bought that did not make it.
Yes!! IMO this shouldn’t even be an unpopular opinion. It should be common sense lol.Dippiedee said:2. Parents shouldnt buy fish (or any pet) for their child (under 10s). You can only take care of an animal when you're at least capable of taking care of yourself. Teaching children 'responsibility' at the expense of a living creature is wrong.
i ill have to strongly disagree with this oneBetta'sAnonymous said:My unpopular opinion is that if you need to treat finrot with anything other than water changes and indian almond leaves it is probably due to severe neglect or complete lack of knowledge.
Totally agree! Im not a fan of how small the betta bug bites areValkyrieLips said:I'm not sure if this is an unpopular opinion because I'm so new, but I prefer to feed my betta slightly larger pieces of food (but not so big he has to spit it out) than a bunch of really small pieces. This is the reason I have the s/m cichlid bug bits formula vs the betta one. The betta formula's granule size is SO small I'd have to feed him like 5-6 "pieces" per feeding vs 2-3 of the cichlid bug bites.