Tss+ Set-up Help

Leafydragon
  • #1
I purchased TSS+ in the smaller size (up to 40g) for my 10 gallon tank and fritz ammonium chloride. The ammonia said to add 4.5 g to a 100 gallon tank for 4ppm, so I added less then 1/4 of a gram to get my tank to 2ppm. I was planning on getting some plants and one more decoration to add to my tank in a few days (since I couldn’t get them when I first set up the tank). Should I add the TSS+ after adding in the last decoration and plants or should I add it now? Is it okay to let the ammonia sit in the tank? Also could anyone please explain exactly how to do the cycle if I use TSS+? Also will the tannins from the driftwood affect the process?
 

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MrBryan723
  • #2
The bottle bacteria is usually garbage so maybe take it back. If you feel like you need to use it, add it when you dose ammonia and you would be fine. Get the plants sooner rather than later. It shouldn't matter either way about the decor as it will take any bacteria a while to grow on it regardless.
The driftwood won't do anything but give you more places for bb to grow.
If you have a filter running it is fine to leave the ammonia in the tank; it's what you're supposed to do.
 
JamieLu
  • #3
I had great success with using TSS but I was doing a fish in cycle. I would add it, it won't hurt. I skipped the 2nd phase of cycling (nitrite) when I used it. But sounds like ur on the right track
 
JenC
  • #4
I also had great success incorporating TSS+ in a fishless cycle.

A typical fishless cycle might look like this:

Water dechlorinated, heater and filter running.
  • Dose water to 3 ppm.
  • Redose to 3 ppm when it falls to 0-0.25 ppm, max once per day. Once nitrites appear (typically in week 2-3) reduce concentration to 2 ppm, still only dosing when it's near 0 ppm, max once per day.
  • Do a water change if needed to keep ammonia and nitrite below 5 ppm and nitrate on the chart. Otherwise, let it do its thing as long as it's progressing.
  • Cranking the heat to 82° F can help expedite the process but remember to turn it back down before stocking.
  • When dosed ammonia converts to 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite in <24 hours, preferably in <12 hours, the tank is cycled. It usually takes me about a month.
  • Before stocking, do a huge water change to remove accumulated nitrates. If not stocking immediately, give a daily maintenance dose to 1 ppm to keep the cycle fed and strong.
You can put in the TSS+ now. Shake it really hard, turn off the filter, pour it directly on the filter media and let it soak in for 15-30 mins, then restart the filter.

The fishless cycling steps stay the same except you might skip the nitrite phase and jump right into getting nitrates, and things will progress more quickly if the bacteria works. (Some bottles are reportedly duds.)

Decorations and plants can be added any time.

Tannins are healthy for fish. If you don't like them staining the water you can boil or soak the wood to leach some of them out. (I actually like the look of tannin-tinted water.)
 
Leafydragon
  • Thread Starter
  • #5
I also had great success incorporating TSS+ in a fishless cycle.

A typical fishless cycle might look like this:

Water dechlorinated, heater and filter running.
  • Dose water to 3 ppm.
  • Redose to 3 ppm when it falls to 0-0.25 ppm, max once per day. Once nitrites appear (typically in week 2-3) reduce concentration to 2 ppm, still only dosing when it's near 0 ppm, max once per day.
  • Do a water change if needed to keep ammonia and nitrite below 5 ppm and nitrate on the chart. Otherwise, let it do its thing as long as it's progressing.
  • Cranking the heat to 82° F can help expedite the process but remember to turn it back down before stocking.
  • When dosed ammonia converts to 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite in <24 hours, preferably in <12 hours, the tank is cycled. It usually takes me about a month.
  • Before stocking, do a huge water change to remove accumulated nitrates. If not stocking immediately, give a daily maintenance dose to 1 ppm to keep the cycle fed and strong.
You can put in the TSS+ now. Shake it really hard, turn off the filter, pour it directly on the filter media and let it soak in for 15-30 mins, then restart the filter.

The fishless cycling steps stay the same except you might skip the nitrite phase and jump right into getting nitrates, and things will progress more quickly if the bacteria works. (Some bottles are reportedly duds.)

Decorations and plants can be added any time.

Tannins are healthy for fish. If you don't like them staining the water you can boil or soak the wood to leach some of them out. (I actually like the look of tannin-tinted water.)
I’m not a huge fan of the tinted water, I already boiled the wood and soaked it so I’m going to just use a water polisher for six months.
I thought you were supposed to add the bacteria into the water? I use a marina slI'm filter and when it turns off all the water drains, should I still add it to the filter directly?
Also my heater isn’t the best quality and I think it’s permanently stuck at 79F, is that still okay, I’m assuming it’ll just go a tiny bit slower for the bacteria to grow.
 
Momgoose56
  • #6
I’m not a huge fan of the tinted water, I already boiled the wood and soaked it so I’m going to just use a water polisher for six months.
I thought you were supposed to add the bacteria into the water? I use a marina slI'm filter and when it turns off all the water drains, should I still add it to the filter directly?
Also my heater isn’t the best quality and I think it’s permanently stuck at 79F, is that still okay, I’m assuming it’ll just go a tiny bit slower for the bacteria to grow.
With that filter, you probably just should pour the TSS into the filter while it's running then if you can, otherwise just pour it into the tank. You might think about getting a better quality heater that you can adjust at some point but 76-82 is fine for cycling. What fish are you planning on putting in your tank?
As far as the water clarifier, don't add that until your tank is completely cycled. What's your pH? Here's an ammonia calculator that might make dosing your tank a little easier:
Fishless Cycle Ammonia Calculator Good Luck!
 
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Leafydragon
  • Thread Starter
  • #7
With that filter, you probably just should pour the TSS into the filter while it's running then if you can, otherwise just pour it into the tank. You might think about getting a better quality heater that you can adjust at some point but 76-82 is fine for cycling. What fish are you planning on putting in your tank?
As far as the water clarifier, don't add that until your tank is completely cycled. What's your pH? Here's an ammonia calculator that might make dosing your tank a little easier:
Fishless Cycle Ammonia Calculator Good Luck!
I do hope to get a new heater eventually, but for now this one is working pretty good, since 79F is the temp I need. And I’m not 100% if the temperature changes or not since the light up part doesn’t seem to work underwater, I need to check it better soon, but I’ve just wanted to leave it be for now.
I’m planning on getting a betta, 3 mystery snails, 2 nerite snails and 2-4 ghost shrimp (watching to see if he gets aggressive towards the mystery snails or shrimp)
For the purigen, would you mind explaining why I shouldn’t add it, I’m curious to know since I haven’t heard anyone say that before.
The pH is 7.6 according to my test kit, and after dosing the ammonium chloride I tested and it cane back as somewhere between 2ppm and 4ppm, closer to the 2ppm. I’m going to wait until tomorrow night to add the bacteria since I used prime a day ago.
The one I’m using (a powder) said to add 4.5 g to a 100 gallon to get 4ppm. If I did the math right (divide by 10 to get ten gallons then divide by two for 2ppm) then less then .25 grams should be fine?
 
Islandvic
  • #8
I may have missed it, but what declined are you using.

I remember reading if you use Seachem Seachem Prime as a dechlorinator, to wait 24 hrs until adding the TSS.

I have used TSS + ammonia for a fishless cycle with success.

In regards to the heater, it appears from your pic to be an adjustable Top Fin heater from PetSmart. I've used a Top Fin 100w heater that came with our Top Fin 20 gallon kit with zero issues for over a year.

I would adjust it according to what the thermometer is reading, not what the thermostat on the heater says.

Most heaters are inaccurate to a point, and I just adjust them up/down until the tank hits my target temp based off of a glass thermometer.

Just be sure to unplug it during water changes.
 
Leafydragon
  • Thread Starter
  • #9
I may have missed it, but what declined are you using.

I remember reading if you use Seachem Seachem Prime as a dechlorinator, to wait 24 hrs until adding the TSS.

I have used TSS + ammonia for a fishless cycle with success.

In regards to the heater, it appears from your pic to be an adjustable Top Fin heater from PetSmart. I've used a Top Fin 100w heater that came with our Top Fin 20 gallon kit with zero issues for over a year.

I would adjust it according to what the thermometer is reading, not what the thermostat on the heater says.

Most heaters are inaccurate to a point, and I just adjust them up/down until the tank hits my target temp based off of a glass thermometer.

Just be sure to unplug it during water changes.
I am using prime, and I heard it was a 48 hour wait, but I want to give it an extra day just in case.
Can you explain what the trends for your ammonia, nitrite and nitrates were so I can use it to check mine? I’m nervous about accidentally messing something up
It is a topfin heater, 50watt, but I’ve heard they can stop suddenly for no reason so I want to get another heater for emergency. That’s a good idea to check using the thermometer, I didn’t even think to do that, thank you
 
JenC
  • #10
I am using prime, and I heard it was a 48 hour wait, but I want to give it an extra day just in case.
Prime actually shouldn't interfere as it leaves ammonia/ammonium available for nitrogen cycle conversion but other water treatments might. In any case, there's no harm being cautious.
 
Islandvic
  • #11
It has been over a year, so I can't recall exactly how long and how the parameters looked as it cycled.

Some people report minimal or zero nitrites when using TSS. So if the Ammonia is reducing and you're getting nitrates, even with zero nitrites, you are on your way.

Once the tank can process 1-3ppm of ammonia in 24 hours, resulting in 0 ammonia and 0 nitrites with detectable nitrates, most people consider that a cycled tank.

Dont be nervous about messing anything up. Once you get nitrate readings, you know you're on the right track.

If anything gets out of whack, a large water change will dilute everything back down. Remember, the beneficial bacteria you're trying to colonize all lives in the substrate and the media in the filter.

So water changes during a cycle will not make a huge negative impact on its process.

Having a spare heater is always good. Any heater can break, just like any tank can leak. I would trust a Top Fin heater over the generic Chinese heaters found on Amazon/eBay. If its name brand, then it should be good. Many people on the forum use Aqueon Pro, Hydor, Finnex, Eheim-Jagger, Cobalt etc with good results.

All of my heaters are off 1-4°f from their thermostat settings to the actual temperature reading off the thermometer. Once I have it dialed in though, they can hold the temp +/- 1°f, which is all I ask.

Another tip, when performing water changes, remove the thermometer and use it to temp match the faucet water to your tank. Easy way to get a bucket of new water the exact temp of the tank. Fish won't be stressed by a large temp fluctuation that way.
 
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Leafydragon
  • Thread Starter
  • #12
thanks for the helpful info!
 
JenC
  • #13
Can you explain what the trends for your ammonia, nitrite and nitrates were so I can use it to check mine? I’m nervous about accidentally messing something up

If I recall correctly, ammonia didn't drop for several days, I started seeing nitrites around day 11-14, and the tank was fully cycled in 28-31 days. (It varied a bit each time but sped up a bit as I modified my process.) This was with me starting at 4 ppm and dropping to 3 ppm when nitrites appeared, which is a lot; if you start with 3 ppm and drop to 2 ppm I expect it might be a bit quicker.
 

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