Treating finrot

My Otos have finrot , and I tried Maracyn two but it just didn't work. So I did research on stronger medications, and I heard that Jungle Labs Fungus Eliminator is supposed to work really well. My parents can't take me to look for it until tomorrow, but anyway, are there any other good ones in case I can't find it at a store?

 

Here are some links that might help:



https://www.fishlore.com/Disease.htm

As far as the Fungus Eliminator, I'd say go for it. I have no experience with that particular product, but while surfing this topic I read a lot about others using it and liking the results.

 

Thanks everyone. If I can't find Fungus Eliminator (I've looked at two places and they sell other Jungle products but not that), then I'll try Tetracycline. I've heard that's good too. Oh, and what exactly does that mean when a medication says "may stain aquatic and non-aquatic materials"?

 

Oh, and what exactly does that mean when a medication says "may stain aquatic and non-aquatic materials"?

Some products have color to them and can stain the silicone or tank decorations when you treat the tank.

 

Well, I couldn't find Fungus Eliminator or Tetracycline. However, I did find Jungle Fungus Clear, which I would assume is the same thing as the Eliminator except it comes in a tablet versus crystals. It appears to be strong, since it says I can't remedicate for four days and after a 25 percent water change. It does say that "may stain" thing, but quite frankly I couldn't care less if my entire tank is purple and pink as long as my little fishies get better. Right now I can't tell if it stained anything or not because it turned my water green.

 

Well, the Fungus Eliminator has definitely helped. However, I read somewhere to "continue treatment until the fins start growing back." Both Otos have stabilized and look generally more healthy, but they don't look like the fins have started coming back. But the treatment said to put in a tablet, wait 4 days, and if necessary do a 25% water change and add another tablet, which I have already done. I recently did a water change and removed some of the meds. Do you think after maybe another water change or two I should repeat the process? Or would I be better off waiting to see if it's really necessary??

 

Melafix its a apI product works great

 

I have that too, but I don't know if it works or not yet...

 

Well, they seem much better, although all of a sudden one has started acting sick again. I think it might be my nitrates. Even with weekly water changes, my nitrates are always pushing the max. It doesn't bother the livebearers, but I think it might be the cause of the finrot. Now I know why they say to keep Otos in a planted tank. I'm going to get some Java Ferns and see if they improve.
Just a little side note, the only things the medication stained are my thermometer suction cup--a really pretty light blue, much more interesting than clear -- and like 6 or 8 random pieces of gravel, don't ask .

 

Melafix its a apI product works great

I agree it does a very good job and has natural products in it which are supposed to be good like a stress coatish thingy.

 

To help out on your nitrate problem. How long have you had your tank ? If it is pretty new you tank may not be cycled completely. Go buy some stability made by seachem. I had a nitrate problem and this is the best chemical I have found. It takes about a week but when you start to see the nitrates drop it will go quick. Use it for about 10 days and then one time for every water change. It will build up you bio system very quickly. I use it on my 90 gal and have had very very good results.

 

My tank is long cycled, it's probably 7 or 8 months old. I'm kind of wary about using chemicals. I'd rather see if some plants will solve the problem naturally.

 

Just use melafix by api. It is a natural product and will take care of not only fin rot but many things like ulcers, cuts, and so on.

 

You can also add anacharis to your list of plants. You don't even have to bury any of it in the gravel. Just throw it in the tank and let it float. A lot of fish like to nibble on it and it is a great plant for soaking up nitrates. It's also usually cheap (between $1.00 and $2.00 for a bunch of 6 stems).

 

I wouldn't call stability a chemical it is just bacteria to help your nitrates and ammonia. If anything its a water conditioner that
helps build-up your biological system.

 

Anacharis...where do you get that?
Are Java Ferns good at soaking up nitrates? I just bought a few.

 

Anacharis...where do you get that?
Are Java Ferns good at soaking up nitrates?  I just bought a few.

Next time you go to your local fish store, ask them if they can get you some, and how much would they charge you? I can get it locally here for about $1.19 for 6 stems. I ordered 300 stems of it a while back of aquabid. My turtle likes to munch on it.

 

Hmmm, I did a search on Anacharis, and is seems as if they need really bright lighting...which I don't exactly have. Would it still be OK? At least it's cheap...Finally something cheap...must buy... :
Hey, my Otos seem to like my Java Ferns. I was joking that I should name them like all my fish, and then my dad joked that I should name then Al & Gae. So I did. ;D In case anyone cares.
I think I'm going to treat for Finrot again. It seems to be coming back to one of them.

 

just to reply on the finrot problem:

two products I have used with good results are in order of preference:

Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Inc.   Furan-2 Capsules a little more complicated but work better.

Jungle Labs   Fungus Clear Tank Buddies these are fizzy tablets and are easier to use but take longer to work.

They both cover a multitude of problems, finrot being one of them.  I tend to keep a pharmacy on hand but I have actually used both of these products with good results.

Rose

 

I am not sure, but I think my betta may be developing finrot. His fins aren't rotting away, they are just becoming stringy instead of stuck together. ???, Is this finrot? or is this normal?

If it is finrot, do I need to remove him from the tank to treat it? Or can I add medication to my tank with all my fish? Will it hurt my other fish if they aren't sick? I would think that if one has it there is a chance the others may get it?

I plan on doing some research, but I always come to the forums first because everyone here is so helpful.

Thanks
MB

 

yes that sounds like finrot or is there a chance he could be catching and tearing his fins on something in the tank (decorations or something - driftwood?) ? If it is finrot and you need to medicate and raise the temperature to at least 80 - 82 degrees you can do it with the other fish in the tank with no problem as long as you use the medications I mentioned above. Anything else, you will have to ask someone else. If you have otos or catfish or plecos you may want to cut the dose in half for the tank or move the betta to treat him.

Rose

 

After the bout with Ick, I keep my tank at 82-84 degrees. I think the finrot started back then, but I was so concerned with the Ick that I didn't realize it. His fins haven't changed in the last few weeks but I don't want it to get worse. I can't believe how attached I have become to my fish. They are so relaxing to watch.

BTW: on the advise of everyone I added 3 otos to my tank, and they are so cute. And do a great clean up job.

:'( however, I lost a neon last week. He was the smallest of the bunch and the biggest one was picking on him. The guy at the LFS said if I bring in the big guy they will trade him in, but I can't catch him.

 

Good, Maybet! Another member of the oto explosion. I am always so happy to hear that anyone has saved the Bettas or Otos. They are two of the most abused little fish I know of. Any time they can get a new home and someone to love them it makes me very happy.

Rose

 

Yes, Otos are awesome, and Bettas too. Many people are beginning to realize how badly Bettas are treated, but I don't think as many are aware about the Otos. I am planning to get some female Bettas--I actually saw female crowntails at my lfs! I've never seen those before, only males...I have to have one of them! I'm going to 'rescue' a few more Otos too. That is, once I get another tank going! ;D

Maybet, sorry about your Neon. :'( A few tips on fish catching: put the net in the tank and leave it there overnight to let the fish get used to it. Then pick it up and use something else to chase the fish towards it, rather than chasing the fish with the net. Trap the fish against the side of the tank or the top of the water, just make sure he doesn't jump.

 

Last night before bed I checked on my Betta (I always watch him for a while before going to bed) and he looked great. This morning I turn on the light and his tail is split completely from the tip to the base. He's a veil tail that now looks like a split tail. The edges are ragged looking also. I'm currently treating my 20 gallon with Tetracycline from API, and it says to use 1 packet per 10 gallons (powder). Problem is I don't know how to divide the powder packet evenly for my 5 gallon. I do have some ParaGard left, and it mentions fin and tail rot, but I've had it since '01 or '02. One lfs said it didn't expire though. It contains malachite green. Would this be good enough or do I need to make another emergency run to the pet store to get a different med? (I also have a snail in the tank now so I need a med that won't hurt it.)

 

Here is the easy way. You take a disposable or some type of cup that you use for fish (clean of course) and put 10 ounces of water in it. Dissolve one packet in it and measure out 1 ounce of each gallon of tank size. (5 gallons = 5 ounces) Unfortunately the remainder will not keep as Tetracycline is not a med that keeps over so you will have to use a new packet for each dose. That is the easiest way unless you want to pour out the packet on an envelope and divide the powder into two equal sized piles and use one of the piles for each 5 gallons. Pour the other pile into an envelope for the next dose. If it is not precisely down to the last grain even do not worry, it will be close enough.

Hope this has helped a bit.

The Tetracycline will not hurt your snail.

Rose

 

Oh thank you so much Rose! That helped a lot! Gee, why can't I ever figure this stuff out? lol Now I can go ahead and start treatment right away.

 

Is his tail split or does he actually have finrot? A split fin does not always develop finrot. If his tank is cycled and you keep it VERY clean with 25% water changes every second day and keep the gravel vaccumed his tail should heal on it's own.  I don't like to medicate unless it's really needed. I don't want them to develop a resistance to meds by over-medicating.
My females had badly split and torn fins from fighting with each other (I had them together for a few days and when they started fighting I separated them). One fish had almost no tail left from the others chewing and shredding her. I kept their water very clean and didn't medicate. I watched for any signs of finrot. Most of the split fins healed completely in a few days! The fish who lost most of her tail took a little longer but her tail grew back nicely with no finrot.
My advice would be, if his tail is just split give him time and see if he develops finrot. He may not need meds. You should try to figure out if something in the tank like a plastic plant or rough rock/ornament tore his tail and remove the object.

 

The tank's not cycled yet. In fact, I did an ammonia test right before I changed it and it was pretty high. The test says to wait 5 minutes, and I forgot about it so it was closer to 10 minutes before reading it and it was between 1 and 2ppm.

His tail has been fine, he's by himself, and the tail was split completely from base to tip. The tips are also ragged, along with some other less dramatic splits, and it looks like the tips are starting to be eaten away.

I'm not one to opt for "natural" healing methods. I've found by experience that there is a reason there are medicines out there, and they work a lot better than the natural stuff. Treating sickness and disease is so hard with fish. Only once have I been able to treat successfully. I'm sure this is fin rot and I want to catch it and treat it as early as I can.

 

As long as you think it has already developed into finrot then yes, medicate. However, meds, especially antibiotics are so overused, even with humans, that many bacterias have become resistant. Unless you are really sure a fish needs it, medicating constantly when clean water will do can seriously harm them and make the medicine ineffective in the future when they might REALLY need it.
You will need to do daily 50% water changes and compensate for the loss of meds if the tank is not cycled. Finrot will not heal with ammonia levels that high.  If you have other tanks that are cycled use some filter media to help seed the tank with bacteria.

 

According to the Tetracycline, I'm not supposed to do a water change until the day after the second dose (which would be Saturday), and I'm only supposed to do a 25%, and then repeat the treatment.

I don't understand why (after the treatment is over) I'd need to do daily 50% water changes? My previous Betta was kept in a 1 gallon bowl and I'd do a complete water change once a week. Then I got to where it might get changed once a month or so, and he was in perfect health. This Betta is in a 5 gallon tank with a filter and water temps between 78 to 80 degrees and he's getting sick. It just doesn't make sense. Why did my other Betta do so well in such a small bowl, and this one having problems in an ideal tank? ??? I know the bowl never got cycled, esp since I'd completely drain it and put him back in after a 15 minute float.

 

Your bowl Betta was just lucky he never got sick, but that doesn't mean he was happy or comfortable in water with ammonia. Test the water and you will see, the ammonia rises to a bad level in less than a day even in a 5 gallon tank. In a bowl even faster. Once a week water change in a bowl would leave the Betta in some pretty strong ammonia. He must have had some discomfort or pain even if he didn't show it. Ammonia burns their skin and gills. Imagine if a person were in a bathtub and forced to pee in it every day. How bad would it be after a week?
You should cycle the tank he is in (this will take up to 6 weeks) and then do about 25% water changes every week and vacuum the gravel every second week. Once a month water change, even in a cycled tank is simply not enough.

 

The tank has been cycling for about 3 or 4 weeks now. I add some Stress Zyme once a week also. When I checked it last, it had no ammonia, nitrite, or nitrates. Oh crud. I forgot. The ammonia test I used had expired (about 2 years ago) and I just bought a new ammonia test this week. I bet that's why it never showed ammonia amounts until now.

Can I still test and get accurate results with the Tetracycline in the tank? I'd like to test the Nitrite and Nitrate levels now too. After I'm done treating the tank, do I do 25% water changes every week with the gravel cleaning every other week like you said? Or do I wait until the tank is done cycling first before I do that? How much/how often should I do after the treatment is over? (After every 2nd dose I'm supposed to do 25%, and then after the fourth and final dose I do one last 25% change.)

 

The Tetracycline will have no effect on your testing.. That is one thing about it, but it can affect your cycle temporarily. Just be aware that the filter cycle will probably be slowed or you may get a surprise with the testing. If you get ammonia readings do not worry, it is the medication and will straighten out. Just do the water changes as suggested.

Rose

 

Ok, that's good to know. I did a 50% water change and retested for Ammonia last night (after adding the third dose of treatment, per instructions) and it came down to about 1 ppm. That's still pretty high but I can't change it again until tomorrow. I'm supposed to only do a 25% water change but with the ammonia so high, I did a 50%. I checked the other perimeters too and had no Nitrites or Nitrates, so it's still not cycled.

After the treatment is over, I'll do another 50% water change. After that, how often will I need to change the water and how much? (50% every other day until the tank cycles?)

 

hi! I am dealing with the exact same thing as you - tank not cycled, fin rot - how to treat? I am also doing the water changes every day, just started medicating yesterday with fungus eliminator ( now have yellow water) and can't get accurate readings on my ammnia.

I also ask everyone who helps me how come my friends bettas live for years in dirty water that never cycles and never have a disease. it is hard toa convince people not to use bowls and vases, when you do all the right things and end up with a sick fish. this is my first betta so I am trying to learn as I go from those who have experience.

I almost wished I would have started using cycle or something like that ( no access to Bio Spira) and the tank would be cycled and we could just enjoy our fish!! I think too much medication is as bad as too many chemicals!

I will follow the progress of you and your betta friends as I struggle along with mine. All the best! Val

 

The tank has been cycling for about 3 or 4 weeks now. I add some Stress Zyme once a week also. When I checked it last, it had no ammonia, nitrite, or nitrates. Oh crud. I forgot. The ammonia test I used had expired (about 2 years ago) and I just bought a new ammonia test this week. I bet that's why it never showed ammonia amounts until now.

Can I still test and get accurate results with the Tetracycline in the tank? I'd like to test the Nitrite and Nitrate levels now too. After I'm done treating the tank, do I do 25% water changes every week with the gravel cleaning every other week like you said? Or do I wait until the tank is done cycling first before I do that? How much/how often should I do after the treatment is over? (After every 2nd dose I'm supposed to do 25%, and then after the fourth and final dose I do one last 25% change.)

The Stress Zyme is probably why it's taking so long to cycle. Products such as "Stress Zyme" and "Cycle" do NOT add the same bacteria as BioSpira and will only slow down your cycle. Once you start using them you have to keep using them forever. Best to stop and let your tank cycle normally. Also, make sure the water tests you use are the liquid tests (made by API) and not the test strips which are very inaccurate and more expensive. (for the same price the liquid test gives you 180 tests and the strips give you only 25) If you can't afford the Master Test Kit at least get Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate individual tests.

 

I know that those of you from Canada pay a fortune for the Master Test Kit, but here in America if you purchase the Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate tests; you have already spent more than a Master Test Kit will cost at .

I totally agree about the use of the products you have listed and others like them. They are only effective as long as you use them and then they quit and you have to go through the cycle anyway.

Rose

 

Ok, that's good to know. I did a 50% water change and retested for Ammonia last night (after adding the third dose of treatment, per instructions) and it came down to about 1 ppm. That's still pretty high but I can't change it again until tomorrow. I'm supposed to only do a 25% water change but with the ammonia so high, I did a 50%. I checked the other perimeters too and had no Nitrites or Nitrates, so it's still not cycled.

After the treatment is over, I'll do another 50% water change. After that, how often will I need to change the water and how much? (50% every other day until the tank cycles?)

How often you do water changes depends on your ammonia readings. Ideally, the ammonia should not get above .25 ppm. How much of the water you change may range anywhere from 25% to 75%(for super high ammonia only) depending on how high your ammonia is. There is really no set guidelines...you just have to go by your readings. A lot of people have to do daily 50% changes though.

It sounds like from your description that he tore his tail on something, and then it became infected due to the ammonia. Is there anything sharp in the tank he could have torn his tail on? (pointy decorations, sharp plastic plants, etc)

And I don't know if anyone has mentioned this but I believe turning the temp up to 83 or so will help the fins heal faster. The higher temp will also help the cycle go faster as the bacteria like higher temps. And yeah Stress Zyme is pretty much a waste of money...

 

There is one tiny plastic plant in there, but other than that, no, there's nothing really for him to catch it on. Yes I know about the higher temps. I try to keep it at around 80.

I've gone through enough trouble and spent enough money trying to get the Stress Zyme that wasn't frozen, so I'm not going to just through it out after all the hassle I went through to get it. If it doesn't do anything, fine, but I'm going to use it up. I can't afford to spend $40 bucks for 1 oz of Bio Spira. I'm already going to have to get a new Python, since mine broke the other day and soaked me and my bathroom.