Top Fin Retreat 2.5 & 5 Gallon Mods

FishRFriendz
  • #1
The 2.5g Retreat aquarium appears to be the same as the Top Fin 5 gallon glass aquarium but smaller.

I think the Retreats can easily be compared to a Fluval spec of equivalent volume, just way crappier filter compartment and light build quality. I wish there were a greater modding community for these tanks as they could be really good value for money with a little DIY.

Also since it seems Top Fin is Pet-smart’s house brand, they run discounts on it much more frequently. It retails at $50, but I picked up pair of the 2.5g for $33 in Oct, and the 5 gallon would have been $42.50. I imagine they’ll do some big markdowns for Black Friday that may be even better.

The light is really good for medium light but doesn’t default to On when it is given power preventing use on a socket timer. The biggest problem for me is the light as I want automated photo period.

The light bar is relatively easy to open and gain access to the electronics.

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The chip at U2 is a controller that handles the capacitive power button. Bypassing the chip by soldering a wire from pin 1 to 5 of that chip will directly connect the power permanently allowing the light to turn on when power is provided.

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The filter I’m actually fine with as mechanical filtration with the addition of some floss to fill up the compartment space so shrimp don’t hide in there, but I prefer some dedicated bio media. Simple enough to toss a bag of rings or something into the space on top of the pump, but I have other plans.

Picked up a 3 pack of these for $1 at a dollar store.

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Essentially a tiny media reactor. Ideal for Eheim Substrat Pro or Seachem Matrix.

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Ended up running some tubes from a python minI siphon around rather than run it directly over the pump as it was too tall over the pump, but fit inside fine side by side with a bit of room to not kink.

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FishRFriendz
  • Thread Starter
  • #2
I’m using two retreats so each tank’s power adapter could be placed on different sockets and one could be on a timer. The only thing that needs to be done is cut off a pair from each adapter to swap one set of 2.1x5.5 mm pigtails. But since I have these pigtails in bulk I just made adapters so I wouldn’t have to damage the originals.



If I were running only one tank it would be simple enough to simply buy any 12v 1000ma ac/dc adapter and just plug the light into that.
 

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A. Rozhin
  • #3
I have two betta tanks, and both are this model you're reviewing. I'm learning as I go -- my first tank wasn't cycled when I put the betta in (did not know any better at the time). I managed to nurse him through that and when finally got it cycled I used a mesh bag of bio balls I tucked in the back compartment of the first one to seed the new one (it cycled great!).

Okay, so fish in both, now! Next, I am trying to grow plants, and it's not working well. I like that you say there is enough light, so it's not that. I'm trying easy things like anubias and amazon sword plants (the little kind). They start out great, but then get yellow/brown/melty. I've started using Flourish, but with the charcoal in the filter pads, I know I need to get that out because works against the fertilizer. So I finally have to face the sorry- cartridges in this kit.

So: will the following work, in your opinion?

I cut open the filter cartridges, cleaned out the charcoal, stuffed with floss and bio-balls. It's very ugly, but hidden away in that back compartment the aesthetics are not an issue. This mod is running so far in one tank, and my flow is only slightly impeded (and it's still not turned up all the way because, bettas). All my good bacteria made it over (I used the original bio balls I seeded the second tank with).

Any other suggestions for not using the Top Fin cartridge? I saw your mod with the plastic bottle, and it was really cool, I just don't want to go that far. Is what I did good, or is there even a simpler way?

I love this forum, and all I learn. But I also rarely see the little all-in-ones addressed, so THANK YOU. I love this little tank setup, enjoy both of the ones I have. I take very good care of my tanks, so I'm not slack, but I do want to do as simple a mod as possible for the filter. I bought my boys expensive heaters (Cobalt), so building a better cartridge is the final hurdle, and simple/cheap is my aim.
 
FishRFriendz
  • Thread Starter
  • #4
You'll always need the plastic cartridge from the original filter, at least to act as a wall so you can stuff the other side with polyester fiber. After that just toss a filter bag with media on the side with the pump.

I just use the filter as it is and stuff with polyester fiber. But the density of the filter is pretty high so it restricts flow possibly too much as covered by Cory in the Aquarium Coop review.
 
A. Rozhin
  • #5
Thanks! Started over, took the bio balls out and put them in mesh bag, and filled pockets with only fiber floss -- the pump is keeping up fine, flow as strong as ever. The bio-balls in the pockets were what was slowing it down.

In thinking more about this, I wonder if a course sponge, cut to size and zip-tied to the plastic frame (current media it came with completely removed) might work? You gave me the idea when you talked about the "plastic frame." I'll try it when this disintegrates...
 
A. Rozhin
  • #6
I've done some mods on my Top Fin now, based on information here. It's much improved. I'd like to do the light mod, to put it on a timer, but what's not mentioned is that the filter and the light are on the same circuit -- cut power to the light, you cut it to the filter. Suggestions? The mod above will work, but when the timer shuts the light off, all other "life support" on the tank will be cut off as well.
 

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FishRFriendz
  • Thread Starter
  • #7
I've done some mods on my Top Fin now, based on information here. It's much improved. I'd like to do the light mod, to put it on a timer, but what's not mentioned is that the filter and the light are on the same circuit -- cut power to the light, you cut it to the filter. Suggestions? The mod above will work, but when the timer shuts the light off, all other "life support" on the tank will be cut off as well.
You'll need a separate 12v adapter. Any old 12v adapter should work like this:


I didn't need one as I have two tanks and simply replaced the connector so that one adapter powers both and the other powers both pumps.

Tangent: this site is really getting aggressive with linking keywords to amazon affiliate links eh? Getting pretty intrusive really. I don't want ppl thinking I endorse some product that this site decides to link.
 
A. Rozhin
  • #8
No, the links are helpful. We can always get the stuff elsewhere but a picture, and the specs, are worth a lot. That being said, here is your chance to not shill for The Man -- what kind of wire am I looking for re: that circuit board mod? I work in a marine lab, wires all over, just need to know what to ask the techs to slip me.
 
FishRFriendz
  • Thread Starter
  • #9
No, the links are helpful. We can always get the stuff elsewhere but a picture, and the specs, are worth a lot. That being said, here is your chance to not shill for The Man -- what kind of wire am I looking for re: that circuit board mod? I work in a marine lab, wires all over, just need to know what to ask the techs to slip me.

I mean I looked at your post and saw tons of links to amazon stuff. I just don't really care for random links to amazon stuff appearing in my posts when I actually am linking to an amazon item cuz that could totally confuse people.

The wire I used was from a USB cable I was taking apart I think. I think most ppl have a bunch of spare USB type A to mini-B cables that they'll never use again. The black or red wires in USB cables are for power. I live on the edge using the data wire for power LOL (most old cables use the same guage for data/power wires anyways 28AWG). Just to be safe I would recommend using a 24AWG cable, they make them as 28/24 cables which are fast charging cables.
 
A. Rozhin
  • #10
Got it, but...I didn't put any links at all. All the blue links were put on there by the FishLore genies, all mine was written plain text.
 
FishRFriendz
  • Thread Starter
  • #11
Got it, but...I didn't put any links at all. All the blue links were put on there by the FishLore genies, all mine was written plain text.

Yeah, that's what I mean. I hate that.

The app doesn’t link keywords tho.
 

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