Took Bad Advice

Actually, eyedroppers are very reliable measuring devices.

That's why I said to double check the dosage with an eyedropper, and also referred to a "regular eyedropper." Let me rephrase that for you, as a "standard eyedropper."

From WebMD.

"A standard eyedropper dispenses 0.05 ml per drop, meaning there are 20 drops in 1 milliliter of medication. Let's do the math: a 5 ml bottle has 100 doses and a 10 ml bottle has 200 doses."

I have checked the drops per ml. It's spot on.

Of course, if you try to use a turkey baster instead, you will probably get a different dose. LOL!

The size of the drops is not solely determined by the size opening in the dropper. There are a variety of droppers available to consumers. Unless you purchase a dropper specifically made fo dispensing liquids into eyes, it may not be a "standard" eye dropper. There are pediatric dosing droppers (those tips are larger), droppers with curved tips (those openings are smaller). GuppyDazzle Just out of curiosity, how do you double check a 1 ml volume dispensed in drops?
"The volume of a drop is not well defined: it depends on the device and technique used to produce the drop, on the strength of the gravitational field, and on the viscosity, density, and the surface tension of the liquid.[1]"
Drop (unit) - Wikipedia

 

OMG. I can't believe I'm in the middle of an argument about eyedroppers! This is hilarious! Ridiculous, but hilarious nevertheless!

Eyedroppers have been used to measure accurate doses of medication for what, 150 years?

The size of the drops is not solely determined by the size opening in the dropper. There are a variety of droppers available to consumers.

I already said if you use a turkey baster you're not going to get the same results. Google "eyedropper" and your search results will be "1 ML," "1 ML," "1 ML," then turkey basters. (This is insane).

Unless you purchase a dropper specifically made for dispensing liquids into eyes, it may not be a "standard" eye dropper.

OMG. That's why I said "standard eyedropper" in my original post.

Just out of curiosity, how do you double check a 1 ml volume dispensed in drops?

I took an API vial with a 5ML line on it and used an eyedropper to put in 100 drops. Is that scientific enough? It took about a minute. It was spot on. I expect I'll get an argument now that atmospheric pressure can have an effect on drop size and density and room lighting can produce alteration effects in comparing the level of the liquid to the measuring increment.

Bring it on eyedropper deniers. This is fun!

Just for the record, this was the original comment that started this firestorm of angst over whether eyedroppers are legitimate measuring devices or not (specifically as compared to a bottle cap).

"I use an eyedropper. I'm pretty sure my math is correct, but double check it. Dosing of Prime is 1 ml per 10G. A regular eyedropper is 1 ml, about 20 drops. I do one eyedropper of Prime for every 10G, and it's worked great. You could take an eyedropper and check it with the bottle cap."

Oh, man, I'm really going to stir things up now!

I don't know how many people are fans of Corey but I am. Here's a YouTube video about using a "commercial grade spray bottle" to dispense API Prime.

Bracing myself!

 

Please don’t derail this thread any further, it’s not fair to take the focus away from the op’s questions.
If you want to continue this eyedropper discussion start your own thread

 

Hey guys. Just wanted to check in to see if anyone spots something off. The night my fish died, I did a 60% water change and added prime to the buckets. Not "eye dropper" precision, ha, but I’m in the right area. For the last couple of days, my ammonia is still around .50. Last night maybe touch under. Zero nitrites or nitrates registered on any tests since last week (nitrites). Thursday night I boiled my driftwood for probably a total of about 2 hours through 2 different runs. Added that Friday night after the water change. Ph has dropped to about 7.6 I believe it was earlier tonight. I dosed with prime Friday night. I dosed again last night cause it was a long day with my daughter and was exhausted, but the ammonia was down a touch. Then today is was back up (ammonia) to a solid .50ppm so I did another 40% water change. If anything it just seems strange that with all of the water changes that the ammonia seems to almost be not unaffected. The fish seem fine but I’m starting to think I’m not getting enough turnover with my filter. I’m running the Marineland 400 on there right now. They seem to hang by the filter more than anywhere else. I’m going to add another filter tomorrow. So far I’m not a fan of this one. Seems like one side always spins much more than the other.

 

From what you're describing I think you're keeping up with the ammonia with water changes. You should see nitrite soon. Keep testing, keep doing water changes.

 

Thanks GuppyDazzle. I just want to be sure I haven’t overlooked something.

 

You may want to consider adding an air driven sponge filter. It serves a double purpose. It aerates the water and is also a place to grow more bacteria.

Since you don't have nitrites and are only using Prime to detox ammonia (I can't believe I am going to say this) you may want to go ahead an let the ammonia get up closer to one before doing a water change.

Prime is supposed to detox up to 1ppm with a regular dose and that is the only reason I am suggesting you let your ammonia get closer to one before a water change

Some folks are saying 1 dose for 1ppm, 2 doses for 2ppm and so on. On the bottle it does say one can add up to 5 times the normal amount in an emergency but it doesn't plainly say what I see folks posting. Personally I would never let the ammonia get over one while doing a fish in cycle.

Please refresh my memory: Have you had nitrites at any time during this cycle?

 

You may want to consider adding an air driven sponge filter. It serves a double purpose. It aerates the water and is also a place to grow more bacteria.

Since you don't have nitrites and are only using Prime to detox ammonia (I can't believe I am going to say this) you may want to go ahead an let the ammonia get up closer to one before doing a water change.

Prime is supposed to detox up to 1ppm with a regular dose and that is the only reason I am suggesting you let your ammonia get closer to one before a water change

Some folks are saying 1 dose for 1ppm, 2 doses for 2ppm and so on. On the bottle it does say one can add up to 5 times the normal amount in an emergency but it doesn't plainly say what I see folks posting. Personally I would never let the ammonia get over one while doing a fish in cycle.

Please refresh my memory: Have you had nitrites at any time during this cycle?

Yes I have had Nitrites. Probably about a week ago when I first posted here. But since I’ve been using prime and more water changes I haven’t seen any.

 

Yes I have had Nitrites. Probably about a week ago when I first posted here. But since I’ve been using prime and more water changes I haven’t seen any.

Normally nitrites show up, go away and then are gone forever. You may not ever see them again so don't be stressed out if you don't. Normally though once nitrites show up and then go away you soon start seeing nitrates.

 

Normally nitrites show up, go away and then are gone forever. You may not ever see them again so don't be stressed out if you don't. Normally though once nitrites show up and then go away you soon start seeing nitrates.

What exactly is an air driven sponge filter?

 

What exactly is an air driven sponge filter?

It's a foam sponge with a hollow lift tube. Air bubbles rise in the lift tube, creating a current that pulls water through the sponge. Beneficial bacteria populate the surface area on and inside the sponge and convert ammonia to nitrites and nitrites to nitrates. When done properly it's a much better filter than this description makes it sound. Air-driven lift tubes can move surprising amounts of water, which can make these very effective filters.

There are a number of different models and variations of design. Quality also varies greatly.

 

What exactly is an air driven sponge filter?

I am sorry that I didn't explain it better. Since there is sponge filter media to go inside HOB filters and/or canister filters I identify sponge filters as air driven because they are hooked up to an air pump. Thank you JayH You described what I meant very well.

 

I see. Those go in the tank, right? I don’t see that being ascetically pleasing in a 55 gallon tank. Not much room to work with to start. I understand the reasoning. I’ve got a 90 gallon that I’m not even touching yet that I can see that working. Can’t I replace some media inside of the HOB filters with sponges? I’m still not sure exactly what I can put inside of filters. I also picked up a Fluval 50 earlier today I’m going to run in conjunction with the Marineland 400 to get better filtration and surface movement. The 90 is going to be a canister filter for sure.

Well, I just saw a sponge filter that seemed to hang down from the top. I’ve only ever seen them sitting in the floor of the tank running up. That looks much nicer.

 

I actually run 2 dual sponge filters in my 55 gallon tank. Mine are hidden behind plants so are not an eyesore. are the ones I use in all of my tanks. The pictured ones just have one suction cup for holding them in place but the ones I received have 2 of them so they are held securely in place.

I don't think I have ever seen one that hangs from the top but then there are lots of different kinds.

The fish seem fine but I’m starting to think I’m not getting enough turnover with my filter. I’m running the Marineland 400 on there right now. They seem to hang by the filter more than anywhere else.

This paragraph is the only reason I suggested adding a sponge filter. I often suggest adding an airstone in cases like this but a sponge filter not only moves the water but also adds something for bacteria to grow on so serves a double purpose.

 

Well, I just saw a sponge filter that seemed to hang down from the top. I’ve only ever seen them sitting in the floor of the tank running up. That looks much nicer.

That would look like an HOB filter with a pre filter on the intake tube. Or an intake for a sump?

 

It was basically a tube running down from the top of the tank in to a single sponge that was hanging about 3-5” off of the substrate. I couldn’t tell what was happening outside of the tank but it was not an HOB. It was running elsewhere. I wish I had taken a picture of it. I’ve been all over the place looking things up that I don’t even know where I saw it.

Hopefully I’m not becoming a pain with all of the questions but I obviously have another one. I set up the AquaClear 50 tonight and I’m wondering if my intake depths are ok? The AQ50 seems to be causing much more movement down low. The tetras seem to love it but should either of these be higher or lower?

 

Hopefully I’m not becoming a pain with all of the questions but I obviously have another one. I set up the AquaClear 50 tonight and I’m wondering if my intake depths are ok? The AQ50 seems to be causing much more movement down low. The tetras seem to love it but should either of these be higher or lower?

Asking questions will never make you a pain to anyone here...so ask away.

 

I set up the AquaClear 50 tonight and I’m wondering if my intake depths are ok? The AQ50 seems to be causing much more movement down low. The tetras seem to love it but should either of these be higher or lower?

Aside from the extremes -- above the water line or buried in the substrate -- there are no right or wrong answers here. It all depends on what you're trying to accomplish. They'll tend to pull more stuff from the water column near the height they're adjusted to.

Given you have two, I'd consider extending the AquaClear intake so it's closer to the bottom. I'd also get a foam pre-filter to put over the intake. This will do wonders for keeping the media in the body of the filter cleaner a lot longer. It will also keep sand from getting sucked into the pump. You definitely don't want that.

The other filter has an oddly shaped intake so it might be difficult to find something to fit over that but you could perhaps wrap a piece of flat foam around it and secure it with a zip tie. Or find a thick block of foam and cut a hole in the middle. Swiss Tropicals sells a very good quality foam. Pricey, but good. You can also look for pond filter foam on Amazon.

 

Aside from the extremes -- above the water line or buried in the substrate -- there are no right or wrong answers here. It all depends on what you're trying to accomplish. They'll tend to pull more stuff from the water column near the height they're adjusted to.

Given you have two, I'd consider extending the AquaClear intake so it's closer to the bottom. I'd also get a foam pre-filter to put over the intake. This will do wonders for keeping the media in the body of the filter cleaner a lot longer. It will also keep sand from getting sucked into the pump. You definitely don't want that.

The other filter has an oddly shaped intake so it might be difficult to find something to fit over that but you could perhaps wrap a piece of flat foam around it and secure it with a zip tie. Or find a thick block of foam and cut a hole in the middle. Swiss Tropicals sells a very good quality foam. Pricey, but good. You can also look for pond filter foam on Amazon.

Thank you. I didn’t think of that with the foam. That makes a lot of sense. I had to turn down the AQ at bed tonight. I noticed the fish trying to "sleep" being pushed around a bit. That’s a nice feature.

 

I just want to make sure my eyes are seeing color correctly. .25ppm? Water changes, Prime... doesn’t seem to change with anything I do. Any chance I’m somehow affecting the test in some way?

 

Lots of folks it seems are seeing that tiny hint of green even when their tank should be completely cycled. I don't think I would do a water change or even add Prime at this point unless it has been at least a week since you did your last one.

I can't imagine anything you could be doing to skew the results.