Tiger Oscar Can't Get Up

Discussion in 'Advanced Freshwater Aquarium Topics' started by gwillbo, Aug 5, 2017.

  1. gwillboNew MemberMember

    My tiger oscar which I have had for about 2 years and is about 10" is unable to swim, he lives in a 80 gallon tank along with a a Severum and a blue crayfish, he's always been healthy but about 6 weeks ago he lost the ability to swim to the surface, it's like something is holding him down, he doesn't have no obvious sign of causes e.g. Bloating or anything just a few rubbing marks now cause he's on the sand constantly, now and then when I feed the fish he kinda forces himself up and takes a mouthful but sinks straight back down like a rock, he doesn't seem to be in pain, I've tried salt baths and feeding peas but nothing seems to be helping him, I think if there is no way of sorting this I may have to euthanise him cause it's not fair on him, so if anyone has any ideas that would be great?

    Cheers in advance


    Attached Files:

  2. DiscusluvWell Known MemberMember

  3. gwillboNew MemberMember

    Epsom salt gave him a few baths and added it t the tank

  4. DiscusluvWell Known MemberMember

    If neither of those two worked (the peas and the Epsm salt) I would suggest treating for swim bladder disease.
    Can you test your water parameters: Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate? What size tank? Temp? Other occupants?
    Have you seen any unusual feces.. white colored ( stringy or translucent) more specifically?
    Does he have any pitting or erosion around the head/lateral line?
    This disorder has an underlying cause: either overfeeding, water quality, bacteria, or parasites.
    Its best to try to figure out the underlying cause and treat for the resulting condition- swim bladder disease.

    Im sorry, I see the tank size now- an 80 gallon. This is quite small for both a severum and an oscar of this size. Have you had difficulties with rising ammonia? What kind of filter do you have?
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 5, 2017
  5. gwillboNew MemberMember

    Ammonia 0.25ppm
    Nitrite 0.25ppm
    Nitrate 40ppm
    It is due a water change tomorrow

    Tank size 1200mm wide 600mm tall and 500mm deep

    He's currently housed with a convict, Severum and a blue crayfish and a bristlenose pleco

    I do about a 20% water change every fortnight

    I currently have a ehiem canister filter with a nitrate reactor connected to it

    The temperature of the tank is 25 degrees Celsius

    I've already tried a swim bladder treatment from interpet but had no response

    Also he hasn't got any pitting or eroding of the head and I haven't seen any unusual feaces in the tank
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 5, 2017
  6. DiscusluvWell Known MemberMember

    Thank you. I would say that the issue is long-term issues with water quality. This tank, after two years, should not have detectable ammonia or nitrites. The bio-load is too high for the fish that you have.
    For the size tank and the bio-load in your system will either need to re-home some of your fish or start doing at least 50% water changes weekly to get your cycle under control. The nitrates, at 40, are okay- but the ammonia and nitrates will, in time, stress the fish and cause bacterial/parasitic issues.
    I will look up Interpret, not familiar with it to see what the active ingredients are. I will get back to you shortly.
    If you can, I would do a 50% water change and retest parameters in the morning.
  7. DiscusluvWell Known MemberMember

    Oh! Your in the UK? Do you have access to antibiotics for fish?
  8. gwillboNew MemberMember

    Yes I gave him a course of moxileb-250 for 5 days but that didn't do anything either, yes I'm from the U.K
  9. DiscusluvWell Known MemberMember

    When was the last treatment of antibiotics? Sounds like moxileb would be a treatment with the active ingredient amoxicillin?
    Edit: Can you look on the back of the packaging to see if what it says regarding dosage. Many times a second dose is recommended in especially severe cases.
  10. gwillboNew MemberMember

    It says use 1 capsule for every 10 gallon for 5 days and no more than 10 days, you think I should give him another course of them?

    Because I'm in the U.K. You can't buy them anywhere I had to get them from online and they took about 30days to get here, his last treatment was about 2 weeks ago, I have enough left for 2 days but is there anything else I could use?
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 5, 2017
  11. DiscusluvWell Known MemberMember

    Order some more just in case.
    I wouldn't do a two day treatment- its best not to do partial treatments.
    But, the issue underlying his swim bladder infection is water quality.
    So, like I said before, suggest lowering the bio-load by re-homing fish or doing a 50% water change weekly without fail in long -term.
    In short term- to help him now:
    Do 50-75% water changes until you have no more detectable ammonia or nitrites. Test each day until you see that both are undetectable.
    Do you have access to Seachem Prime in the Uk? It is a water conditioner/dechlorinator that you use with water changes. This will help to detoxify ammonia and nitrites up to 1ppm for 48 hours. It is a great product. Clean water will allow him to rebuild his immune system and maybe fight of the infection on his own.
    Once you have a handle on the cycling issues- do weekly 50-75 percent water changes. If you can- do more...
    Until you can get the other antibiotics, this is the best thing you can do for your fish.
    Keep me posted and good luck!
  12. gwillboNew MemberMember

    Thank you I'll try that, we can't get seachem prime here but we have similar products, I'll order some more and do water changes every other day for now
  13. CoradeeModeratorModerator Member

    Hi, we can get Seachem Prime here in the Uk though it's harder to find, have a look here if an Lfs near you stocks it  
    Failing that you can get it on Amazon
  14. DiscusluvWell Known MemberMember

    Thank you, Coradee.
  15. sweendog87Valued MemberMember

    Hi how is the oscar today did you get around to those big water changes I would do a 75% water change followed by another 30% straight away get all the ammonia and nitrites out he will not be able to fight infection with these toxins in his water I would re home the pleco they have a massive bio load and keep and eye on the blue crayfish I had to get rid of some years back cause they kept nipping my oscars fins
  16. gwillboNew MemberMember

    Hi there
    I managed a big water change yesterday and treated with seachem prime, tested the water today and got the ammonia down but still slightly picking up some nitrite, I've ordered some more antibiotics so I can treat him when them come but other than that he's still doing the same really
  17. sweendog87Valued MemberMember

    Do another water change again today and keep the ammonia and nitrites right
    down don't forget to prime everytime new water is intruced you want keep all that BB growing to help your oscar

    I would be doin 50% water changes everyday till your mini cycle is over and nitrates are steady also don't let your nitrates get past 25 ppm when they do. Do another water change thats my rule 25ppm + immediate water change
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 7, 2017
  18. sweendog87Valued MemberMember

    Or if ammonia or nitrites read anything above 0 also water change
    but once your tankis 100% cycled again you won't have that problem

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice