They happen in 3s? 3 heater failures in less than a day

Addictedtobettas

Better to let the tanks cool down than heat up?

Yesterday as I was setting up a new quarantine tank I noticed my oldest 5g was close to 81, again, despite my adjusting the main heater a week ago. I’d had two heaters in there as previously neither one seemed capable of even keeping it at 79 for some reason
I pulled the small preset heater and let the Eheim stay thinking if either heater was broken it was probably the cheapy aqueon 10w preset.
Nope. Temp went over 81. I unplugged the eheim while I finished setting up the other tank.

Figured I’d try the 10w in the small quarantine tank. After an hour it seemed to be doing nothing so I put in another backup preset I had laying around from an old tank and unplugged the 10w.

Checked on the new tank (it was an emergency quarantine tank for fish that arrived yesterday looking unwell) and it was at nearly 82!

Unplugged the larger of the two presets, added cool water for the fish in there and got it down to 81. Plugged in the dinky 10w in case it was working at would keep it from dropping too low overnight.
Came back an hour later and it was climbing back to 82.

Unplugged that heater too.

Was up in the middle of the night and remembered I’d left the 5g eheim completely unplugged. . Checked on it and saw it was at 76 which seemed better than the fish baking at 82 so I left it unplugged.

The quarantine tank was at 79.9 so left that as well.

Not that I had many options at 10pm, midnight or 4am.

What else can one do when the backups backup fails?!

I’m getting new heaters today but starting to wonder what’s going on in electronics land.
 

!poogs!

Is it an eheim jager? I think they can be recalibrated. I own 5 of them and they have all given me issues at one time or another. Oddly, the most reliable heater I ever bought is the cheapest no name thing I bought on a whim.
 
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fanutd100

The technique I saw fish farm in South East Asia countries do is using styrofoam box. Only need to leave a couple small holes on the lid to get air. Styfofoam can keep a stable temp for long period.

So what you do is use the water from your established tank with stable temp to put into the styrofoam, every 12 hour. Basically water change. In the end, it would also help acclimating the new fishes to the established tank.

The down side is that you can't invisibly monitor your fishes as well as with glass tank.

With glass tank, get a heater controller.

With back up equipments, and electronics in general, you're supposed to test every few months. And try to keep a quarantine tank running all the time.

The only heater worth keeping as back up is the green Ebo Jager. After Ebo got sold and changed to Eheim, it is not the same in built quality, and ease to use. Eheim heaters can be annoying to recalibrate when using with different tank sizes.
 
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Mongo75

heaters can be annoying to recalibrate when using with different tank sizes.
That's why I switched to a heater controller. I set my heater to a few degrees over the temp I want in case the controller fries, it won't cook my fish, but the controller I have is calibrated to a thermometer with a couple of button presses, and I have it set to come on at 77°F and go off at 78°F, but I'm debating on changing it to come on at 78° and off at 79°.
 
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Addictedtobettas

Is it an eheim jager? I think they can be recalibrated. I own 5 of them and they have all given me issues at one time or another. Oddly, the most reliable heater I ever bought is the cheapest no name thing I bought on a whim.

It is, and it's been wonky from the get go. I've recalibrated it a couple of times, I thought, as it stays stable for a few weeks or months but then it starts climbing again.


Get a heater controller. Cost about the same as an expensive heater, but are more reliable, and more accurate. This one will control two heaters (in the same tank), https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Electronic-Temperature-Germination-Controlling/dp/B07QWTJNX2?th=1.

This one will control one heater, and one chiller/fan, https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temp...2A1PNHJS6JD7&refRID=9474QB4A2A1PNHJS6JD7&th=1. They also make a wifi verson of this one for $10 more.
That's why I switched to a heater controller. I set my heater to a few degrees over the temp I want in case the controller fries, it won't cook my fish, but the controller I have is calibrated to a thermometer with a couple of button presses, and I have it set to come on at 77°F and go off at 78°F, but I'm debating on changing it to come on at 78° and off at 79°.

I have one I should hook up, this is a good reminder. With so many tanks I should probably order a few more.
Frustrating that the heaters aren't made with a little more stability - there isn't one brand or one type that has a consistent state it seems.

The technique I saw fish farm in South East Asia countries do is using styrofoam box. Only need to leave a couple small holes on the lid to get air. Styfofoam can keep a stable temp for long period.

So what you do is use the water from your established tank with stable temp to put into the styrofoam, every 12 hour. Basically water change. In the end, it would also help acclimating the new fishes to the established tank.

The down side is that you can't invisibly monitor your fishes as well as with glass tank.

With glass tank, get a heater controller.

With back up equipments, and electronics in general, you're supposed to test every few months. And try to keep a quarantine tank running all the time.

The only heater worth keeping as back up is the green Ebo Jager. After Ebo got sold and changed to Eheim, it is not the same in built quality, and ease to use. Eheim heaters can be annoying to recalibrate when using with different tank sizes.

I don't know how I'd do the styrofoam on bigger tanks, during the winter that would seem good to have stashed in the garage though, as backup on power failure esp (though if I had a bunch of BIG tanks I'd look at some backup power supply I think).

I technically have 2 quarantine tanks available, they are full of endlers at the moment though. Working to change that over the next couple of weeks.
 
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Mongo75

if I had a bunch of BIG tanks I'd look at some backup power supply I think).
I'm speaking from computer experience, UPS battery backups may not help much when it comes to heaters, depending on how much load they have on them, and the ambient temperature. I have this APC UPS for my severs, and they are pulling a load from 550 to 600 watts depending on how many drives are spinning. My estimated runtime is about 7 minutes. Granted, that's continuous load, and heaters aren't on constantly, but it gives you an idea. But I think it's a good guide regardless. If you were running 3 200W heaters during a power outage, you might get 10 minutes of total run time, and that's on good batteries. Batteries only last a little over three years before they start losing efficiency. It can also take another several hours for the batteries to recharge.
 
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AmnScott

I've had really good luck with the AquaTop Titanium heaters. They come with digital controllers (with temp probe) and have all been accurate within a degree. No failures yet... *knock on wood*.
 
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Addictedtobettas

I've had really good luck with the AquaTop Titanium heaters. They come with digital controllers (with temp probe) and have all been accurate within a degree. No failures yet... *knock on wood*.

Thank you for the advice! I just bought two of them, and will see how they do. Very well rated.
 
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AmnScott

Thank you for the advice! I just bought two of them, and will see how they do. Very well rated.
They also heat up the water pretty quick and don't stay on long, which is nice. Just make sure to place the temp probe away from the heater. Expensive little heaters but worth the purchase IMO. Let me know how you like it.
 
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