The Api Water Test Kit Color Chart Is Inaccurate

After several weeks of wondering why my ammonia is consistently staying at 0.25 ppm, I've come to the conclusion that the test kit color chart is inaccurate. I tried everything from putting in Tetra cleaning bacteria to several water changes without any impact. I finally decided to test the tap water, which also showed 0.25 ppm ammonia. Now I've tested store-bought distilled water, which should have zero ammonia, but still shows at 0.25 with the test kit.

The attached picture shows side by side comparison of my tank water and distilled water. Both have a hint of green color indicating 0.25 ppm ammonia. The API test kit was highly recommended when I searched for what to buy but it would save a lot of people headache if there was a disclaimer the color chart is off.

 

Mine is spot on bright yellow. Maybe bad solution? Have you tried a different bottle(s) just to make sure?

 

The problem is lighting and backgrounds. You need to be in a bright spot white white light against a white background.

 

Mine is spot on bright yellow. Maybe bad solution? Have you tried a different bottle(s) just to make sure?

I unfortunately don't have a second bottle. Maybe it is a problem with the solution I have. I'm going to take my tank water to a Petco or Petsmart so they can also verify for me.

The problem is lighting and backgrounds. You need to be in a bright spot white white light against a white background.

I see. When I check again, I'll compare against a white background.

 

Mine is the same, constantly has the very light green tint (.25) I think it's just a flaw with some of the kits, atleast that's what some others on here have said when I asked the same question!

 

Mine is the same, constantly has the very light green tint (.25) I think it's just a flaw with some of the kits, atleast that's what some others on here have said when I asked the same question!

I'm glad I'm not the only one facing this issue then.

 

Have you tried shaking both bottles (ammonia 1 and 2) and testing? Sometimes it needs to be shaken up because the solvents stay at the bottom. This is especially true for the nitrate 2 bottle but it can happen with all of them.

 

Have you tried shaking both bottles (ammonia 1 and 2) and testing? Sometimes it needs to be shaken up because the solvents stay at the bottom. This is especially true for the nitrate 2 bottle but it can happen with all of them.

I have not shaken them. I will do it next time I test and will post results. Thanks for this tip.

 

I have such a hard time with the nitrate colour scheme. They all look the same!!! Maybe I'm a little colour blind ha

 

I have such a hard time with the nitrate colour scheme. They all look the same!!! Maybe I'm a little colour blind ha

Lol! Use a white piece of paper as a background in good lighting or you can pour the results in a white bowl to check. Sometimes you have to manipulate your surrounds to get a more accurate reading. I know the struggle because I too can not determine what the colors actually are so I use the two above methods and it works for me.

 

I have such a hard time with the nitrate colour scheme. They all look the same!!! Maybe I'm a little colour blind ha

Yes, especially with the normal ph one around the higher end (~7) I'm like hmm XD

 

Everyone perceives color differently too. I brought this issue up once and someone shared a picture of their perfect 0 ppm reading and I still saw a subtle tint of green to it. At this point, with my personal tanks, I'm just going with the motto of "if it's more yellow than green, your water is clean." Especially since I use Prime often. I've heard the kits can also typically be off within ~ .25ppm too

 

Everyone perceives color differently too. I brought this issue up once and someone shared a picture of their perfect 0 ppm reading and I still saw a subtle tint of green to it. At this point, with my personal tanks, I'm just going with the motto of "if it's more yellow than green, your water is clean." Especially since I use Prime often. I've heard the kits can also typically be off within ~ .25ppm too

I’ve seen mine go from really yellow to a hint of green to green! However, I shake the heck out of the bottle if I see that I have a hue and test again. Usually that hue turns into a more solid color of either yellow or lime green (.25). If you get a slight hint though (after shaking) then prime is your best friend or your kit may be expired or faulty. That’s just my two cents.

 

And what about tanks with tannins in the water? The color is already yellow/brownish.

 

One way is to take the top off the vile and look down into it over white paper, there is such a slight difference between 0 and .25 it can be very difficult to read, many times on their forum I've come across people questioning the chart so your not on your own and I don't think there's a problem with the kits its just the way it is

 

And what about tanks with tannins in the water? The color is already yellow/brownish.

That will be much harder to read the test that’s for sure. ApI should come out with a kit specifically designed for tannins!

 

That will be much harder to read the test that’s for sure. ApI should come out with a kit specifically designed for tannins!

Like a starting point with different degrees of tannin and results. If the water I'm testing is stained with tannins to start, I'm not surprised if result colours appear darker and not perfectly on.

Now I cut the test water by 50% with distilled water (or water I know has 0ppm nitrate) to help determine between 10-20ppm and 40-80ppm since those two sets have particularly close colors. Not perfect, but it works for the nitrate problem.

 

Have you tried shaking both bottles (ammonia 1 and 2) and testing? Sometimes it needs to be shaken up because the solvents stay at the bottom. This is especially true for the nitrate 2 bottle but it can happen with all of them.

In addition to that, you might need to bash the bottom of the bottle on a table or something to break up anything that has settled
The kit is also known to show trace ammonia, here's some food for thought too. A tank is a closed system, with fish producing ammonia 24/7 (subject to stocking and planting etc.)
More likely than not, the tank will have trace amounts of ammonia unless you have crazy filtration turnover, or are filling the tubes directly from the filter outlet, you won't have true zero reading

 

I'm glad I'm not the only one facing this issue then.

One way is to take the top off the vile and look down into it over white paper, there is such a slight difference between 0 and .25 it can be very difficult to read, many times on their forum I've come across people questioning the chart so your not on your own and I don't think there's a problem with the kits its just the way it is

Just hold it up against the white space on the chart between the color indicators. You don't need a separate white background. And consider that slightly darker yellow as your "new normal".

 

or are filling the tubes directly from the filter outlet, you won't have true zero reading

Not true. I’ve had ammonia tests show up pure yellow while filing my tubes through my hob filter and through pipettes. I’ve also had tests show with a tinge of lime green. These tests work, you just have to shake them or beat them to a pulp. The ammonia 1 bottle solvent is just as thick as the nitrate 2 bottle so shaking it seems almost necessary to get accurate results.


I forgot to mention... if you use tap and have ammonia in your tap, you will always show traces of ammonia even if you have used prime. If you use tap, wait 24 hours to test. If it’s still showing traces of ammonia, then your bb isn’t doing it’s job or you’ve got too much stock/producing too much waste and your bb can’t keep up.

Remember, apI test kits only test for total ammonia and can’t tell the difference between free compound toxins (ammonia) and total compound toxins (ammonium less harmful to fish due to its binded form) so it’s safe to say that the traces of ammonia showing up on the test may actually be ammonium.

I always use seachems ammonia alert in my tank since it only reads for free ammonia.

 

After several weeks of wondering why my ammonia is consistently staying at 0.25 ppm, I've come to the conclusion that the test kit color chart is inaccurate. I tried everything from putting in Tetra cleaning bacteria to several water changes without any impact. I finally decided to test the tap water, which also showed 0.25 ppm ammonia. Now I've tested store-bought distilled water, which should have zero ammonia, but still shows at 0.25 with the test kit.

The attached picture shows side by side comparison of my tank water and distilled water. Both have a hint of green color indicating 0.25 ppm ammonia. The API test kit was highly recommended when I searched for what to buy but it would save a lot of people headache if there was a disclaimer the color chart is off.

I have the same problem. It Interested me that u posted this. 75 to 90 percent water changes and gravel vacuums 3×a week on both 5 gal. And 20 gal. Still always .25.

 

Not true. I’ve had ammonia tests show up pure yellow while filing my tubes through my hob filter and through pipettes. I’ve also had tests show with a tinge of lime green. These tests work, you just have to shake them or beat them to a pulp. The ammonia 1 bottle solvent is just as thick as the nitrate 2 bottle so shaking it seems almost necessary to get accurate results.


I forgot to mention... if you use tap and have ammonia in your tap, you will always show traces of ammonia even if you have used prime. If you use tap, wait 24 hours to test. If it’s still showing traces of ammonia, then your bb isn’t doing it’s job or you’ve got too much stock/producing too much waste and your bb can’t keep up.

Remember, apI test kits only test for total ammonia and can’t tell the difference between free compound toxins (ammonia) and total compound toxins (ammonium less harmful to fish due to its binded form) so it’s safe to say that the traces of ammonia showing up on the test may actually be ammonium.

I always use seachems ammonia alert in my tank since it only reads for free ammonia.

Just because I feel like being annoying, how can you be sure it's not .01?

 

Everyone perceives color differently too. I brought this issue up once and someone shared a picture of their perfect 0 ppm reading and I still saw a subtle tint of green to it. At this point, with my personal tanks, I'm just going with the motto of "if it's more yellow than green, your water is clean." Especially since I use Prime often. I've heard the kits can also typically be off within ~ .25ppm too

You nailed it!!!! If it’s more yellow than green your water is clean!!!!! . I luv it!!! Quick patent it before apI does. If they here that that will be there moto . Or maybe The color don’t matter just keep testing .

 

Just because I feel like being annoying, how can you be sure it's not .01?

LOL really?

Pure yellow using direct fill (photo 1) and with a pipette (photo 2).

 

I think there is always some ammonia in the water because fish produce it constantly and bacteria doesn’t convert all of it instantly.

 

I think there is always some ammonia in the water because fish produce it constantly and bacteria doesn’t convert all of it instantly.

Agreed however your bb should be able to convert it within 24 hours.

 

It gets me confused, to me it looks a slight tint of green but so is my tap water the right is the tank water and left is tap water looks the exact same to me and more green than yellow

 

It gets me confused, to me it looks a slight tint of green but so is my tap water the right is the tank water and left is tap water looks the exact same to me and more green than yellow

If you use tap as your water source and your tap contains chloramine, you’re going to see traces of ammonium (if you used prime) or ammonia (if you didn’t use prime) especially if a water change was done less than 24 hours ago before testing. ApI only measures total ammonia and not free ammonia. Even if you see traces and have used prime, your bb hasn’t converted it yet or the ammonia was introduced sooner than what your bb can handle. If you dose with prime, it will bind ammonia to keep it safe. As long as your ammonia doesn’t turn lime to light green, you’re ok. If you really want to pin point your ammonia to exact measurements, I heard seachems test works extremely well. Never tried it so I can’t say for certain. My ammonia alert from seachem works well to see if I have free ammonia in my tank.

 

If you use tap as your water source and your tap contains chloramine, you’re going to see traces of ammonium (if you used prime) or ammonia (if you didn’t use prime) especially if a water change was done less than 24 hours ago before testing. ApI only measures total ammonia and not free ammonia. Even if you see traces and have used prime, your bb hasn’t converted it yet or the ammonia was introduced sooner than what your bb can handle. If you dose with prime, it will bind ammonia to keep it safe. As long as your ammonia doesn’t turn lime to light green, you’re ok. If you really want to pin point your ammonia to exact measurements, I heard seachems test works extremely well. Never tried it so I can’t say for certain. My ammonia alert from seachem works well to see if I have free ammonia in my tank.

Might try the seaschem test kit I use most there other products, iv been reading a lot lately of apI master kit being a let down but some swear by it, I get the same reading all the time and its than color for ammonia, nitrite 0.0, nitrate 40/60ppm never changes

 

Lol! Use a white piece of paper as a background in good lighting or you can pour the results in a white bowl to check. Sometimes you have to manipulate your surrounds to get a more accurate reading. I know the struggle because I too can not determine what the colors actually are so I use the two above methods and it works for me.

all I need to know is red is dead lol
I wish there were more affordable kits similar to the master test kit so API didn't have such a monopoly on it

 

There are online charts available that show ammonia vs ammonium. Ammonia toxicity increases with pH and temperature. The lower the pH and temp, the more ammonia is in ammonium form. Both will test as ammonia as per the API ammnia test.

It gets me confused, to me it looks a slight tint of green but so is my tap water the right is the tank water and left is tap water looks the exact same to me and more green than yellow

Try looking down thru the tube (more conceconcentration of liquid) with a white piece of paper under it. Or I look at the results holding the tube in the white part of the chart with light shining thru it.

 

Might try the seaschem test kit I use most there other products, iv been reading a lot lately of apI master kit being a let down but some swear by it, I get the same reading all the time and its than color for ammonia, nitrite 0.0, nitrate 40/60ppm never changes

It’s the same for me, however I use spring water in gallon jugs that always read 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, 5 nitrates, ph 7.6. My tank has read anywhere between 0-1 ammona, 0-1 nitrites and 5-10 nitrates when I was cycling using spring water. Now that my tank has cycled, it reads the same as the spring water but my nitrates sometimes go up to 10-20 which I don’t mind considering I have live plants. I also test my tap periodically to make sure my apI is working correctly since my tap reads 2 ammonia, 0 nitrites, 40 nitrates and ph 8.2 all the time.

If you end up trying the seachem test, please let us know how it works for you.

I use the ammonia alert and it’s always remained at safe levels except when I was cycling. I also take that out and soak it in tap water to make sure it’s doing it’s job. From what I’ve experienced (as well as others), We can’t always rely on these tests so using prime and monitoring our fishes behavior really does help determine what our parameters are. I feel like these tests are simply a guide to try and pinpoint problems pertaining to our fish.

There are online charts available that show ammonia vs ammonium. Ammonia toxicity increases with pH and temperature. The lower the pH and temp, the more ammonia is in ammonium form. Both will test as ammonia as per the API ammnia test.


Try looking down thru the tube (more conceconcentration of liquid) with a white piece of paper under it. Or I look at the results holding the tube in the white part of the chart with light shining thru it.

Agreed with the white background... sometimes I have to tip the tube at an angle to get a more accurate reading. Yellows can easily be misinterpreted by green hues and nitrates in the 10-20 range can also be difficult to distinguish. Using a white background with good lighting will help to read these tests better.

 

Don't forget to always completely rinse out the test tubes. I have found wrong ammonia readings due to unclean tubes. I pressure wash the tubes with the kitchen faucet.

 

Done a test this morning and put it against a white envelope to me it looks greenish that's after a 25-35% water change with prime

 

Fluorescent and halogen lighting will show a green tinge. Use daylight or LED lighting for a truer colour.

 

That was in natural light sun coming in my window looks yellow in the bottom pic, green in the top or is it my eyes

 

That was in natural light sun coming in my window looks yellow in the bottom pic, green in the top or is it my eyes

Idk, it looks a little bit greenish, but barely. Hold the tube upright so liquid is all at the bottom and against the daylight with chart in behind. The liquid should be lit up, like light going thru it.
Regardless, 0.25ppm total ammonia is not very toxic. As mentioned, if your manicipalilty uses chloramines, when you add a water conditioner, it breaks the ammonia/chlorine bond and sets ammonia free. Prime water conditioner converts ammonia to a safer form as well. But ammonia/um will still register as ammonia per the API test, so after a WC, it will register a small amount until the biological filter processes it.

 

Water can pick up ammonia from the air. I keep my distilled water in the basement ever since another jug in the bathroom picked up ammonia. Bird cages and litter boxes are common sources of ammonia.

 

Thanks to everyone's helpful suggestions. I did retest today. Nicely washed out the test tubes, gave a good shaking to the ammonia bottles to stir up the solution a bit more, and looked at results in broad day light against a white background. I'm seeing a "yellower" color now but still feels like there's a hint of green. My betta seems happy and active so I'm not going to worry too much about it.

 

Thanks to everyone's helpful suggestions. I did retest today. Nicely washed out the test tubes, gave a good shaking to the ammonia bottles to stir up the solution a bit more, and looked at results in broad day light against a white background. I'm seeing a "yellower" color now but still feels like there's a hint of green. My betta seems happy and active so I'm not going to worry too much about it.

That looks like a good yellow to me!