Tfreema’s Fish Tanks

DarkOne
  • #1,681
It might just be the pic but is there enough air flow in the sponge filters? Any fish in the tank? I've almost completely stopped using Excel in my tanks.
 
tfreema
  • Thread Starter
  • #1,682
It might just be the pic but is there enough air flow in the sponge filters? Any fish in the tank? I've almost completely stopped using Excel in my tanks.

They have good air flow going through. It is a 10 gallon tank with a betta, 4 male endlers, mystery snail and 2 nerite snails.

I don’t normally use excel either but had some issues with a new tank and hair algae so I picked up a bottle to help get it under control.
 
DioAquatics
  • #1,684
I am sick to death of Malaysian trumpet snails. For my 120 gallon tank what loaches should I get? Would clown loaches be ok? Or should I stick with bengal or striata?

2 ctenopoma
5 ropefish
1 bengal loach that is like 8 years old
3 African butterfly fish
1 African brown knife
2 bn plecos (will be adding another female)
I recommend getting a bunch on assassins snails, like 15-25 of them and let them go to town. It might take a little longer but its worth it. When I had MTS, I tried clown loaches and got rid of them because they didn’t get the job done like I wanted. They just ate the food I fed my fish. The assassins eliminated MTS completely and I haven’t had them in my display tanks ever since *knocks on wood*
The assassin snails bred in the tank which was perfect because the babies ended up eating the baby MTS. And the assassins don’t breed fast at all so if for whatever reason you do become overrun with assassins, you can easily find them, get them out and sell them.
 
tfreema
  • Thread Starter
  • #1,685
I recommend getting a bunch on assassins snails, like 15-25 of them and let them go to town. It might take a little longer but its worth it. When I had MTS, I tried clown loaches and got rid of them because they didn’t get the job done like I wanted. They just ate the food I fed my fish. The assassins eliminated MTS completely and I haven’t had them in my display tanks ever since *knocks on wood*
The assassin snails bred in the tank which was perfect because the babies ended up eating the baby MTS. And the assassins don’t breed fast at all so if for whatever reason you do become overrun with assassins, you can easily find them, get them out and sell them.

I already have about 10 assassin snails in there. I see no difference. And about 8 in the 75 gallon that has the issue. It has given them months to do their job. It has prevented me from being able to have nerite snails.

I have recently cut way back on food, doing an extra fast night per week.
 
DioAquatics
  • #1,686
I already have about 10 assassin snails in there. I see no difference. And about 8 in the 75 gallon that has the issue. It has given them months to do their job. It has prevented me from being able to have nerite snails.

I have recently cut way back on food, doing an extra fast night per week.
In a 120g, you’ll need more than 10, closer to 25 of them. I put 15 in my 75 gallon originally and they ate the MTS in the matter of a few months. By the time I took them out, all that was left was a boat load of MTS shells and 50+ assassin snails
 
tfreema
  • Thread Starter
  • #1,687
In a 120 gallon, you’ll need more than 10, closer to 25 of them. I put 15 in my 75 gallon originally and they ate the MTS in the matter of a few months. By the time I took them out, all that was left was a boat load of MTS shells and 50+ assassin snails

How hard was it to remove the assassin snails? Were you able to get them all out?

And what did you do about the MTS shells?
 

DioAquatics
  • #1,688
How hard was it to remove the assassin snails? Were you able to get them all out?

And what did you do about the MTS shells?
When I removed them, I did a substrate change at the same time so it was easy for me to sift through the gravel and get them out. They do burrow so it might be hard to get them all but like I said, you won't be overrun with them like MTS. And personally, I think they’re beautiful so I wouldn’t mind having a lot of them.

As for the MTS shells, they will break down in the water over time but since I was changing out my substrate, I didn’t worry much about them.
 
tfreema
  • Thread Starter
  • #1,689
When I removed them, I did a substrate change at the same time so it was easy for me to sift through the gravel and get them out. They do burrow so it might be hard to get them all but like I said, you won't be overrun with them like MTS. And personally, I think they’re beautiful so I wouldn’t mind having a lot of them.

As for the MTS shells, they will break down in the water over time but since I was changing out my substrate, I didn’t worry much about them.

If only they ate algae they would be the perfect little snail. They are pretty, but having them, especially in higher numbers, in a tank prevents me from being able to add nerites or other algae eating snails.......
 
DioAquatics
  • #1,690
If only they ate algae they would be the perfect little snail. They are pretty, but having them, especially in higher numbers, in a tank prevents me from being able to add nerites or other algae eating snails.......
Not saying you should do this but I actually had 2 nerite snails in my tank with the assassins. For the most part they left them alone but once the assassins ran low/out of MTS, they started going after the nerites so I took the nerites out.
 
tfreema
  • Thread Starter
  • #1,691
Got a lighting question for you planted tank folks. I am wanting to replace my current satellite lights with finnex 24/7 cc on my 60” tank. I cannot seem to find 30” lights in stock anywhere. 48” is the biggest they make. What would you do?

Two 24”
One 24” and one 36”
One 48”
 
DarkOne
  • #1,692
How deep is the tank?
 
tfreema
  • Thread Starter
  • #1,693
How deep is the tank?

It is 24” deep.

Petsmart has a big sale on Fluval aquasky right now. I prefer the planted 3.0, but I am being told these are great lights as well. Anyone use them that can tell me how they have worked?
 
DarkOne
  • #1,694
Aquasky doesn't put out even half the light of a 3.0. I would do 2x 36" if it's gonna be planted.
 
jmaldo
  • #1,695
Yep, have to agree DarkOne
I have a Aquasky on a 55 gallon (21" depth), I struggled with plants until I added a Finnex 24-7. Since those any new light purchases I have or will make have been Chihiros leds. No need for all those crazy features, which I never use anyway.

Best of Luck with your final decision.
 
tfreema
  • Thread Starter
  • #1,696
Aquasky doesn't put out even half the light of a 3.0. I would do 2x 36" if it's gonna be planted.

Ok, I am so glad you chimed in because I was about to go buy them at Petsmart. It is not worth it if they are not going to do the job. I might as well stick with the Current Satellite lights I have on there if that's the case.

Those lights are 36" and are a pain in the butt because they overlap 6". The tank is 60" so 2x 30" would cover the length of the tank.

Yep, have to agree DarkOne
I have a Aquasky on a 55 gallon (21" depth), I struggled with plants until I added a Finnex 24-7. Since those any new light purchases I have or will make have been Chihiros leds. No need for all those crazy features, which I never use anyway.

Best of Luck with your final decision.

Ditto on the chiming in. Someone told me their aquasky was doing a great job so I was about to go pull the trigger for the price they have on them.

I really like finnex 24/7 and have had some great success with them. The Fluval planted 3.0 seems to one up the finnex though, although it can be a serious algae grower until it is dialed in just right. But you can dial it in much easier than trying to figure out the button on the finnex remote.

SOOOOOO, now my question is, which one would you choose:

Finnex planted+ 24/7 CC or Fluval Planted 3.0?
 
DarkOne
  • #1,697
I'd go with the Fluval Plant 3.0. If you want to save a few bucks, Aquaneat.

12"-48" LED Light Ultra SlI'm Aquarium Fish Tank 0.5W White & Blue Marine FOWLR

You can get 2 30" for $64. Get a couple of coat hangers to connect them to be 60". They're 10k but I have 2 of these and they grow plants really well. My infamous 20 gallon long that will grow swords to 16"+ has one of these lights. They do get very warm (115°F?) but I've had mine for at least a year and no issues.
 

tfreema
  • Thread Starter
  • #1,698
I'd go with the Fluval Plant 3.0. If you want to save a few bucks, Aquaneat.

You can get 2 30" for $64. Get a couple of coat hangers to connect them to be 60". They're 10k but I have 2 of these and they grow plants really well. My infamous 20 gallon long that will grow swords to 16"+ has one of these lights. They do get very warm (115°F?) but I've had mine for at least a year and no issues.

I actually have aquaneat on most of my tanks. They are the 2nd strip on this tank. Great led light, especially for the money.
Current Satellite is the first strip that I am not happy with and want to replace with something that will do the 24/7 feature.
 
DarkOne
  • #1,699
Aquaneat has a 24/7 type light.

I have all my lights on smart plugs except the Fluval 3.0.
 
tfreema
  • Thread Starter
  • #1,700
Aquaneat has a 24/7 type light.
Remote Control LED Light HI LUMEN Aquarium Planted 12 to 80 Inch Marine FOWLR

I have all my lights on smart plugs except the Fluval 3.0.

For a 24” tank, I don’t want aquaneat as the only light. I think it needs more par.

I think the Fluval planted 3.0 is the best choice, but still pondering finnex 24/7 cc. Both are great lights.
 
DarkOne
  • #1,701
Par ratings are so hard to find and even harder to find correct readings so I just go by lumens and depth of the tank and estimate what I need.

The first Aquaneat light I linked is really bright. About as bright as a 3.0 at full blast. 2x 30" lights will give you 7200 lumens (3200lm x 2), more than a 48" 3.0 (4250 lumens). 10k seems to grow less algae but plants are good with it. That has been my experience with these lights. On a 24" deep tank, I would go with at least 2 lights either way (3.0 or Aquaneat) for a planted tank. I have a Fluval 2.0, Aquaneat and 3 shop light strips on my 75g. I've been playing with different combos as all of them together is blindingly bright. The 2.0 and Aquaneat seems to work well but they put out a lot of heat combined so that's why I was trying the shop lights. Each strip is about 2200 lumens so right now I have been running the 2.0 at ~80% and 3 of the shop lights.

The only con was that they run hotter than the Fluval 2.0, 3.0 and Beamswork I have but it hasn't been an issue with either of mine. I actually put frozen blood worms in a small 50ml beaker and put it on top like a warming plate to defrost the worms faster.
 
tfreema
  • Thread Starter
  • #1,702
Haha! That is warm lights if it defrosts frozen bloodworms.

Yeah, I am doing two strips on the tank for sure. One strip will be aquaneat. The other is a toss up between Fluval 3.0 and finnex 24/7 cc at this point.

On another topic, I am really excited that after 2 years this tank is finally almost fully stocked. Just have 6 more of the smaller gymnogeophagus terrapurpurra to move over next week and it is done.
I LOVE the activity and life the black ruby barbs bring to the tank.


 
DarkOne
  • #1,703
When I was searching for lights, temp was an issue for some so I did my own tests. Going on memory, the Fluvals were about 105°F, Beamswork was about 110°F and the Aquaneat was about 116°F. Ambient temps were about 75°F. So it wasn't a huge difference but it was a bit hotter. The Fluval 2.0 is closer to where I feed frozen foods daily so I use that mostly but when I need to defrost more than a few cubes, I put it on the Aquaneat.

Now there are a few different Aquaneat lights and these are the newest ones that put out about double of the older models. I have the older ones too and they've been working great for just lighting up a tank and growing low light plants.

I really need to redo a few of my display tanks but I'm too lazy .
 
tfreema
  • Thread Starter
  • #1,704
I did just order a new 30" aquaneat as I had two 20" models on the 120 gallon and it is different, seems brighter for sure. I needed one for my aunts 10 gallon betta tank so instead of ordering the small one, I ordered the 30" and swapped out to get more light coverage over my large amazon sword.

I need to redo some display tanks too, but everything takes so much time!! It is so hard to work full time, spend time with my granddaughter, take care of the house and animals, and maintenance on the fish tanks. I am always ill Sunday evenings because my mile-long list is still 3/4 mile long and I am out of time, lol.

I spend 2 hours each evening just taking care of dogs, dosing medicine, etc, feeding fish, dosing fertilizer, picking out stupid MTS. I start at 6:30 and it is always about 8:30 when I finish. Then I am pooped so no time for projects during the week either. UGH! This is why I must get tank numbers down. I have made progress, but it is slow. I keep getting new fish that need to be quarantined, lol. I am a glutton for punishment.
 
tfreema
  • Thread Starter
  • #1,705
I got me a couple more of these cool caves from KJE Aquatics.


IMG_8165.JPG


IMG_8164.JPG

Now I just gotta figure out which ones go in which tanks. I still have a couple small ones from the last order to put in.
 
jmaldo
  • #1,706
Very Nice. They are so real looking, "Bravo" to the artist. I could not resist getting some when they were first offered. My plecos use them and even the fish like to explore them now and then.
 
tfreema
  • Thread Starter
  • #1,707
Found my beautiful big black angelfish, Tilly, dead today. Not sure what happened. She was fine at feeding time Thursday evening. Last night was fast night so not sure when things went south.
 

DioAquatics
  • #1,708
I’m so sorry to hear about Tilly
 
jmaldo
  • #1,709

What a Shame.
 
tfreema
  • Thread Starter
  • #1,710
Thanks guys. Some fish are much harder to lose than others. Tilly is the offspring from my first black lace, Lacey. 6 years is the longest I have kept an angelfish so far, but was really hoping we would make it to the 10 year lifespan they can have.
 
tfreema
  • Thread Starter
  • #1,711
How do y’all reset a quarantine/hospital tank once a sick fish dies?
 
coralbandit
  • #1,712
You can sterilize everything with bleach if it is a hospital tank . Most say 1 part bleach to 9 parts water . No harm in going stronger to kill stuff IMO ..
I just overdose my tanks with potassium permanganate if they are empty and I have any concern .. Both are basically just strong oxidizers that will kill when used properly .

Hospital tanks don't have BB since they will be medicated ..They depend on water changes so no reason to think there is anything to save like BB ?
Qt are sometimes cycled depending on how people treat their new fish ..
 
tfreema
  • Thread Starter
  • #1,713
You can sterilize everything with bleach if it is a hospital tank . Most say 1 part bleach to 9 parts water . No harm in going stronger to kill stuff IMO ..
I just overdose my tanks with potassium permanganate if they are empty and I have any concern .. Both are basically just strong oxidizers that will kill when used properly .

Hospital tanks don't have BB since they will be medicated ..They depend on water changes so no reason to think there is anything to save like BB ?
Qt are sometimes cycled depending on how people treat their new fish ..

Yeah, I don’t have to worry about bb and the cycle since this is a quarantine tank.

I just read 1 teaspoon of bleach per gallon. That does not seem strong enough to me.....
 
Dave125g
  • #1,714
Most diseases our fish get are water born. In most cases as long as the tank and equipment are drained and allowed to dry completely the disease does off. That being said I clean the QT with vinegar and hot water. Equipment also allow it to fully dry and it's ready for next time.
 
angelcraze
  • #1,715
I just read 1 teaspoon of bleach per gallon. That does not seem strong enough to me.....

9:1 water/bleach
Or
3:1 water/hydrogen peroxide
Which is my preferred method

Sorry to hear about Tilly. Always such a hard thing to accept out of no where.
 
coralbandit
  • #1,716
I just read 1 teaspoon of bleach per gallon. That does not seem strong enough to me.....
It is not .
1 part bleach 9 parts water .
That is 1 gallon in a 10 g tank .
2 ounces per g is close .
 
jmaldo
  • #1,717
Not the issue you have. But when I tore down my 55 gallon to set back up for the Discus bare bottom, (did not want to take any chances) I used Bleach, then vinegar. Then just rinse, rinse, rinse should be fine.
I have used the PP treatment resetting another tank, trying to get rid of Black Beard Algae. It worked.

Good Luck!
 
DarkOne
  • #1,718
I'm a huge fan of H2O2 as it breaks down to just water and oxygen. 88¢ per quart bottles at Walmart. I usually have at least 6 bottles on hand. I also got 16oz of PP and used it when resetting my pleco tank.
 
tfreema
  • Thread Starter
  • #1,719
It is not .
1 part bleach 9 parts water .
That is 1 gallon in a 10 g tank .
2 ounces per g is close .

Yikes! That’s 2 gallons of bleach in my 20g.
 
tfreema
  • Thread Starter
  • #1,720
9:1 water/bleach
Or
3:1 water/hydrogen peroxide
Which is my preferred method

Sorry to hear about Tilly. Always such a hard thing to accept out of no where.

So, that is like 2 gallons of bleach OR 5 gallons of peroxide in a 20g?!?!?

A teaspoon seems way too little. This seems way too extreme.
 

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