Sump return pump plumbing

  1. J

    Justyn Smith New Member Member

    First, a pic for reference (click to enlarge):

    [​IMG]

    The return pump I have is more powerful than my overflow capacity, and I'm looking for opinions on safe plumbing routes.

    For the outlet I plan to 'T' off the line with a return to the sump controlled by a ball valve so that I can control the volume of water sent to the DT without restricting the flow through the pump.
    There would be a check valve in the DT line to prevent backflow/siphoning as well as a small 'siphon break' hole at the outlet just below the waterline for security.

    On the inlet I'm considering using an inverted 'U' bend to set the minimum water level in the sump that will always keep the pump submerged in the event of a siphon break at the overflow, with the maximum water level set at a point that would not overfill the DT

    Can anyone tell me if there are any risks I have not considered or other factors I need to take in to account?

    Cheers.
     
  2. peregrine

    peregrine Valued Member Member

    Most submersible water pumps require there to be water in them or it can cause damage.
     
  3. OP
    OP
    J

    Justyn Smith New Member Member

    That's true, the only time the water level would drop below the intake would be in the event of a siphon break, in which case I'd rather replace a pump than flood the house.

    I had considered a float valve, but I'm looking for solutions that have as few points of potential failure as possible.
     


  4. peregrine

    peregrine Valued Member Member

    Well my other concern is the T.. not sure it will actually divert half. Maybe instead of a T try and find a Y
     
  5. OP
    OP
    J

    Justyn Smith New Member Member

    I like that, it will give a more gentle curve to the flow also helping to reduce head pressure. Thankyou!

    My thoughts on that were that I need about 80% of the flow to go to the DT, but that the head height was about 1.5m

    I've bought a pump that can push a head of 2.8m, and I know that having the 'Y' will mean that I'm fighting gravity to get any flow at all to the DT, hence the valve, which I imagine will be almost completely shut. But only almost ;)

    One alternative would be to allow full flow from the pump and run a second overflow, I'm just not sure I want to have that much equipment in the DT if it can be avoided.
     
  6. peregrine

    peregrine Valued Member Member

    My Biggest thing with the T is that water likes to flow in a straight line unless sunder pressure because both ends are totally open don't think you would get much pressure to push it sideways. I would think it better to have more flowing back into the sump than more into the tank because the overflow will only get water if it goes over the line and obviously you can't pump more water into the sump than there already is ((unless you magically find a way to make water reproduce HAHA))
     
  7. OP
    OP
    J

    Justyn Smith New Member Member

    LOL If I could do that I'd be a wealthy man!

    I got the overflow functioning and ran a test flow setup inside the aquarium. To my surprise, the overflow could handle the entire output from the pump (rated at 1500L/m @ 1.5m head) - You better believe I was watching that like a hawk lol

    The problem then became that the sound of the overflow at the weir/standpipe was unbearable.

    I ended up cutting off all the teeth and just ran a flat skim but even then there was just too much turbulence, a cap over the end silenced everything except for the constant 'waterfall' noise in the sump.

    At this stage it looks like I'll be paying $500(AU) for an original canopy/lights/filter system and just dealing with whatever flow that gives me.

    This was a good learning experience though, and if I was running this outside I'm confident that I'd be able to live with it, but not in a quiet room.
     
  8. leftswerve

    leftswerve Well Known Member Member

    Have you ran it with the check valve yet? It may ruin your t idea unless you put ball valves on both t outlets. Also, your pump intake would work better as a straight pipe, pumps don't suck water very well in the u design. For noise, reduce the flow, you can't completely cap the stand pipe, it has to have a hole. Put a plastic water bottle over it.

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