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Still no resolve in ammonia

  1. L

    Lindy New Member Member

    I thought I had came so close to being done with this endless cycle but I'm still stuck on this stubborn ammonia and don't know what to do. Let me recap on whats going on. I started a fish in cycle about two months ago and although it took forever I finally got on the last step of very low ammonia and high nitrite and high nitrate then like magic (thanks to some good advise from here ;-) ) my nitrites went away 0ppm woohoo! nitrate were at 30ppm but my ammonia has never completely went away always around .25-.50 ppm ! My tap water is the same and after posting about it last week with the advise of a lady which told me to give a few days and my gb should eat it up since the pwc's weren't needed as often. So ive stopped the every to everyother day water changes and its now been 5 days since the last wc but I've still got the ammonia. do I need to worry? surly I'm not gonna have to go though a min cycle so soon with no change to the tank....


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  2. I love my puffer

    I love my puffer Valued Member Member

    Pleas tell us any inhabitants (plants to!).
     


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  3. OP
    OP
    L

    Lindy New Member Member

    sorry i forgot to add that !
    I have 5 cherry barbs and 5 black skirt tetras
    no real plants.
    29 gallon
    .25-.50 ammonia
    0 nitrite
    30 nitrate
    ph 8
    temp 76
    whisper 10-30i filter


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  4. I love my puffer

    I love my puffer Valued Member Member

    Start a 25 water change every other day, and if you can gravel vac and lighten your fish load. That is a lot of fish for a cycle. Should clear up;)
     


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  5. Rivieraneo

    Rivieraneo Moderator Moderator Member

    Hi Lindy, I think you may have two issues. the first is that your filter may too small for your aquarium, I think your filter is rated for no more than 120GPH and this is before the media cakes with organics and reduces the flow, so you may not be getting an adequate water turn over rate. Second, i believe the media capability in this filter may be too small to be able to grow a large bacterial colony.Could you please test your water source and post your results for PH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Thanks.
     
  6. D

    DaniosRock Valued Member Member

  7. jdhef

    jdhef Moderator Moderator Member

    Since you tap water and tank water have the same amount of ammonia, is it possible that you have a bad ammonia test kit? I would test some bottled water for ammonia and if it comes up 0ppm. you know your test kit is faulty.
     
  8. OP
    OP
    L

    Lindy New Member Member

    I will test my tap for all of this as soon as I get home and post the result! I'm using the aip master test kit plus I have two separate ammonia kits so I can test with both to make sure I'm getting the same result!!


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  9. OP
    OP
    L

    Lindy New Member Member

    Ok my tap water today :
    Ammonia .50
    Nitrite 0
    Nitrate 20
    Ph 8.8

    Aquarium water today
    Ammonia 1
    Nitrite 0
    Nitrate 5-10 ppm
    Ph 7.8

    Also my tank is being over taken by brown algae I cleaned it off the glass two days ago and now it's back and twice as much also 50% of my white rocks are now a brownish color. It's not looking to pretty at the moment haha


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  10. b

    bowen747x Valued Member Member

    what type of lighting are you using and how long do you have it on? if you fill out your profile with all your tank details it might help get these basic questions out of the way a lot faster :)
     
  11. e

    evan47 Valued Member Member

    i would get a larger or even a second filter.
    api kits are known to give a slight green tint even when ammonia is at trace levels and dont forget that api kits show total ammonia present in the water.
    there are two kinds of ammonia in your tank. one is toxic the other is not.
    api kits give a reading for both combined.
    if your nitrites spiked for a week or two and then settled to zero then you may very well be cycled.
    it is a good idea to add a few low light plants to help keep things stable as they can act as a natural filter. it worked for me. brown algae or diatoms are a pita, they ruined the silk plants i formerly had in my tank so i added live plants and a couple of ottos to help clean things up. cute little fellas, zipping around the tank and perching on plant leaves, a joy to watch and a lot cleaner than snails.
    also, to help your api readings it is a good idea to read your results under a daylight bulb as different types of lighting can give different results.
    lastly, i notice your tap water nitrates are higher than your tank nitrates, are you following the instructions to the letter?
    the second bottle for the api nitrate test MUST BE SHAKEN VIGOROUSLY FOR AT LEAST 30 SECONDS AND THE COMBINED SOLUTION FOR A FULL MINUTE THEN LEFT FOR 5 MINUTES BEFORE READING.
     
  12. OP
    OP
    L

    Lindy New Member Member

    I tried to fill out the profile but it won't let me it just says I have to be active ?? The lighting is the led light string that came with the tank.. scratch the first part I've now filled it all out!! YAY :;smack

    Also I think I am going to upgrade my filter just to be sure that's not the issue. How would I go about it so I don't lose gb? Just run both filters for a few weeks then Take the smaller one out? And lastly I did have a verrryyy long nitrite spike of almost tthree weeks and then over two days it completely dropped off to 0 and before that I had high ammonia forever and it did drop just never to 0.

    And yes I know i've done the nitrate test right I use a timer to make sure I shake them for the right amount of time. But last time I checked the tap water it was lower if i remember right. where I live we are under a stage 5 drought and they have just change our water over to this reuse stuff so that may be why its all different reading.



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  13. e

    evan47 Valued Member Member

    i run two filters. the fluval u2 that came with my tank (more than adequate for 90l), plus a generic 50l filter with a spray bar above the waterline (from mxxdxhxxd aquatics) as a supplementary filter and surface agitator/bubble creator to further oxygenate the water.
    i swapped my plastic faux rocks for red bogwood and my silk plants for live ones (they are cheaper than silk plants and make a difference to your water quality).
    a deep gravel vac on 20% of your substrate once a week wont hurt either.
    also, if i want to start up a second tank i can use some of the media from the second filter to set things in motion.
     
  14. OP
    OP
    L

    Lindy New Member Member

    So maybe I should just run both filters I guess better safe the sorry right haha!! This weeks is the first week where I haven't vacuumed the gravel and as I was told to let it set and see if the ammonia would zero out but tomorrow would be day 7 so I'll be doing my weekly pwc and vacuum then....


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  15. 77Impala

    77Impala Well Known Member Member

    I know on several of us running the API master test kit that we cannot ever go below .25 ammonia. For me (I do not speak for anyone else here) that I count the .25 as 0, anything over that and I work to bring it down.
     
  16. OP
    OP
    L

    Lindy New Member Member

    Well this is good to know! Maybe that's all it is! I hope


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  17. jdhef

    jdhef Moderator Moderator Member

    You need to have 3 posts before you can fill out your Aquarium Profile, so you should be able to do it now.
     
  18. OP
    OP
    L

    Lindy New Member Member

    That was it ! Its now all filled out!


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  19. I love my puffer

    I love my puffer Valued Member Member

    Keep the light that enters the tank down. Lighten fish load, get a bigger filter start water changes and should be fine

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  20. M

    Mamajin Fishlore VIP Member

    I would have your tap water tested at the fish store, but be sure to request a liquid test (not paper strips as those are not very accurate). I use the Salifert Ammonia Liquid Test Kit, it's far more accurate than the API.

    If you do end up having ammonia in your tap water there's a few options available to you. You can purchase a RO/DI unit to filter your water, purchase RO water directly from the store, or purchase an additive to add to your buckets of water that will be going into your tank. The latter may be the best option for you, but honestly it depends on your wallet.