Starting My 10 Gallon Tank

Hi!

I purchased a 10 gallon marineland starter tank kit (found here: Marineland® 10 Gallon BioWheel LED Aquarium Kit | fish Starter Kits). I started to cycle the tank after adding some declinator by putting in some fish food, beneficial bacteria and running the filter (Bio-wheel Penguin 75 power filter) + heater. My aquascape consists of gravel, sand, larger rocks and some artificial plants. I plant on getting some java fern, red rooted floaters, marimo moss balls, and Anubias nanas (in 2-3 weeks). I will be fertilizing with root tabs.

My questions are:

Am I doing enough to start the cycle in the tank?

With the information above do you think stocking my tank with the below would be too much?

Male Betta fish – 1

Panda or albino Cory – 3

Cherry shrimp – 3

Neon resboras – 5

This is my first post so if there is anything I'm missing or doing wrong please let me know!

 

yea, cories need to be in a group of at least six and a 10 gallon is too small because they are very active.

 

Welcome to Fishlore

Are you dosing ammonia?

What test kit are you using?

For stocking, no pandas. They are too active. Also, I don't know about those neon rasboras in a ten, but denfinitly not with the betta. If you wanted to do the betta, you could do:
-1 M or F betta
-Red cherry shrimp (you could do a lot in there, it just may be a problem with the betta.)
-1 mystery snail
-2 nerite snails

Any other fish you are interested in?

 

Welcome to Fishlore!

Do you have a test kit? It's important to have this especially when cycling your tank. This will allow you to know how much ammonia your fish food is adding to the tank. An easier method would be to buy bottled pure ammonia but fish food works as well. A test kit will also let you know when your tank has finished cycling. You're aiming for 0 ppm Ammonia, 0 ppm Nitrites, and some Nitrates.

A ten gallon isn't really recommended for a community tank with a betta. I believe you're referring to Neon Green Rasboras? They are best kept with only their own species give or take some shrimp and/or snails.

As previously mentioned, cories are too active for ten gallon. You could look into asian stone catfish though.

 

You could look into Nano Cories, like C. Habrosus ( salt and pepper cories) and C. Hastasus (dwarf cories). I would stay away from Pygmy cories though, they are more mid level swimmers and need much more room

 

Welcome to Fishlore!

What kind of beneficial bacteria did you add? Not all work well.

None of the plants you listed need root tabs, so I wouldn't bother buying them. None of the plants you listed should be planted.

The lighting that came with the tank probably isn't enough for the red root floaters.

Asian stone catfish aren't temperature compatible with a betta, by the way.

I would not add any species of cory to a 10 gal, pygmy, dwarf, or otherwise. They should be in big groups and they're active, and a 10 gal isn't big enough.

As mentioned a 10 gal isn't big enough for a betta with other fish. If you want the betta, he'll need to be the only fish in the tank. He may or may not eat the cherry shrimp, but snails and larger shrimp (like ghost shrimp and Amano shrimp) should be fine with him.

 

Welcome to Fishlore

Are you dosing ammonia?

What test kit are you using?

For stocking, no pandas. They are too active. Also, I don't know about those neon rasboras in a ten, but denfinitly not with the betta. If you wanted to do the betta, you could do:
-1 M or F betta
-Red cherry shrimp (you could do a lot in there, it just may be a problem with the betta.)
-1 mystery snail
-2 nerite snails

Any other fish you are interested in?

- I'm not dosing ammonia
- I'm going to pet smart to get my water tested (I'm a bit tight on cash)
- I'd like to get a small schooling fish

Welcome to Fishlore!

Do you have a test kit? It's important to have this especially when cycling your tank. This will allow you to know how much ammonia your fish food is adding to the tank. An easier method would be to buy bottled pure ammonia but fish food works as well. A test kit will also let you know when your tank has finished cycling. You're aiming for 0 ppm Ammonia, 0 ppm Nitrites, and some Nitrates.

A ten gallon isn't really recommended for a community tank with a betta. I believe you're referring to Neon Green Rasboras? They are best kept with only their own species give or take some shrimp and/or snails.

As previously mentioned, cories are too active for ten gallon. You could look into asian stone catfish though.

- I'm going to pet smart to test my water quality.
- Yes, I am referring to Neon green Rasboras
- Thanks for the tip on the catfish!

 

- I'm not dosing ammonia
- I'm going to pet smart to get my water tested (I'm a bit tight on cash)
- I'd like to get a small schooling fish

Sorry if this sounds harsh, but without ammonia, the bacteria will die. When did you add bacteria?

Your next purchase should be the API Master Test kit. It is slightly pricy but it is worth all those trips to petsmart
Here's a stocking option:
6-7 CPDs OR ChilI Rasboras
2 MALE Endlers
4 RCS (they will breed)
TexasDomer, how does this sound?

 

You could look into Nano Cories, like C. Habrosus ( salt and pepper cories) and C. Hastasus (dwarf cories). I would stay away from Pygmy cories though, they are more mid level swimmers and need much more room

- I'll look into the nano cories! Thanks for the tip

Sorry if this sounds harsh, but without ammonia, the bacteria will die. When did you add bacteria?

Your next purchase should be the API Master Test kit. It is slightly pricy but it is worth all those trips to petsmart
Here's a stocking option:
6-7 CPDs OR ChilI Rasboras
2 MALE Endlers
4 RCS (they will breed)
TexasDomer, how does this sound?

I added the bacteria yesterday. I thought that the fish food should be enough. Is it not?

 

Oh, sorry, missed that part. Whenever your ammonia reaches 0, add more.

 

Oh, sorry, missed that part. Whenever your ammonia reaches 0, add more.

Will do!

 

Do you like that stocking?

 

Yeah and like they said, acquire that master test kits ASAP. Otherwise, it seems like you're on the very right track! Good job sir. And addtionally, the few live plants will also help accelerate your cycle faster as well. And may I suggest a really good "budget" light for your lower light plants: (I use 4 of these) NICREW LED's for your 10 gal. They're only like $20, (via Amazon for example) and they're actually vastly underrated and work quite well. And if and when you do choose this light, I also suggest that you utilize mounting brackets to raise it a few inches above the water line, otherwise it'll likely promote a bit too much algae.

 

Welcome to Fishlore!

What kind of beneficial bacteria did you add? Not all work well.

None of the plants you listed need root tabs, so I wouldn't bother buying them. None of the plants you listed should be planted.

The lighting that came with the tank probably isn't enough for the red root floaters.

Asian stone catfish aren't temperature compatible with a betta, by the way.

I would not add any species of cory to a 10 gal, pygmy, dwarf, or otherwise. They should be in big groups and they're active, and a 10 gal isn't big enough.

As mentioned a 10 gal isn't big enough for a betta with other fish. If you want the betta, he'll need to be the only fish in the tank. He may or may not eat the cherry shrimp, but snails and larger shrimp (like ghost shrimp and Amano shrimp) should be fine with him.

- I used "TOP FIN Bacteria supplement"
- should I use the liquid fertilizer then?

Sorry if this sounds harsh, but without ammonia, the bacteria will die. When did you add bacteria?

Your next purchase should be the API Master Test kit. It is slightly pricy but it is worth all those trips to petsmart
Here's a stocking option:
6-7 CPDs OR ChilI Rasboras
2 MALE Endlers
4 RCS (they will breed)
TexasDomer, how does this sound?

What could you replace the endlers with?

 

You could add more of the schoolers. Maybe 12.

 

Endlers and CPDs aren't temperature compatible.

TopFin bacterial supplements don't usually work.

A liquid fert would help, though the plants you've chosen aren't hard, and they may be fine subsisting on the waste from the fish.

What are you thinking of stocking your tank with now?

 

Oh sorry, didn't know thatead: lol

 

Yeah and like they said, acquire that master test kits ASAP. Otherwise, it seems like you're on the very right track! Good job sir. And addtionally, the few live plants will also help accelerate your cycle faster as well. And may I suggest a really good "budget" light for your lower light plants: (I use 4 of these) NICREW LED's for your 10 gal. They're only like $20, (via Amazon for example) and they're actually vastly underrated and work quite well. And if and when you do choose this light, I also suggest that you utilize mounting brackets to raise it a few inches above the water line, otherwise it'll likely promote a bit too much algae.

Thanks for the suggestion. If I do endup purchasing this what would I get to cover the aquarium?

Endlers and CPDs aren't temperature compatible.

TopFin bacterial supplements don't usually work.

A liquid fert would help, though the plants you've chosen aren't hard, and they may be fine subsisting on the waste from the fish.

What are you thinking of stocking your tank with now?

which bacterial supplement should I get then if any?

6 ChilI Rasboras
3
x something else that is either a clean-up crew or a larger fish

 

That sounds good.

 

what would you suggest for the last fish?

Is there no way a betta would fit? Would a female betta work instead of a male?

 

Neither would work in a 10, IMO.

I'm not good with centerpiece fish, sorry

 

Hello I have those plants and I don’t have soil or root tabs and the plants are doing just fine I started using liquid fertilized once in a week or two, but that’s just because some other plant was yellowing... but I think it was more likely because of bad light otgerwise good choice with plants, they are quiet easy

 

Neither would work in a 10, IMO.

I'm not good with centerpiece fish, sorry

No worries! You've been a great help, thanks for all the suggestions!

Hello I have those plants and I don’t have soil or root tabs and the plants are doing just fine I started using liquid fertilized once in a week or two, but that’s just because some other plant was yellowing... but I think it was more likely because of bad light otgerwise good choice with plants, they are quiet easy

Thanks, but would it be okay for the plants if there are no fish in yet? I've just started to cycle the tank, so I can't add fish. Should I get fertilizer then?

 

Thanks, but would it be okay for the plants if there are no fish in yet? I've just started to cycle the tank, so I can't add fish. Should I get fertilizer then?

Ah ok. Well. I had my plants in the tank while I was cycling and I did not use any fertilizer then at all and they were all fine I would just wait.

 

Ah ok. Well. I had my plants in the tank while I was cycling and I did not use any fertilizer then at all and they were all fine I would just wait.

Great!!!! Thank you!

 

Great!!!! Thank you!

Just keep an eye on them whether they are not yellowing or getting some black spots or something

 

I recommend against using cycle starters. Especially if you're on a budget, the bottled bacteria are often more hassle than they're worth. If you let nature take its course and the bacteria will form on its own. Make sure there's a supply of ammonia by either dosing it directly or putting in food every day, your tank should cycle in five or six weeks. Some people have success with cycle starters, but more often than not it produces nothing but pulling your hair out.

 

Dunno. Usually in smaller spaces, male or female bettas can get a bit territorial and nippy...but only maybe a 50/50 chance. I actually had 6 or so ALL males in a 15L tank years ago (kinda contradictory, I know, but after many successful "flare" tests, I ended up choosing the more timid ones of course) and they all ended up getting along after the King male established himself as well...king! Everyone would flare once and a while, but it was very rare, as all they seemed to care about was being preoccupied with food and exploring through the floating plants heh

 

Dunno. Usually in smaller spaces, male or female bettas can get a bit territorial and nippy...but only maybe a 50/50 chance. I actually had 6 or so ALL males in a 15L tank years ago (kinda contradictory, I know, but after many successful "flare" tests, I ended up choosing the more timid ones of course) and they all ended up getting along after the King male established himself as well...king! Everyone would flare once and a while, but it was very rare, as all they seemed to care about was being preoccupied with food and exploring through the floating plants heh

That is very rare and definitely not recommended, especially in such a tiny tank. I would guess that 99.99% of the people who try this will have dead bettas on their hands. BeginnerFishKeeper97 please, please do not try this. So very unfair to the bettas.

If you do the chilI rasbora, I'd do 10-12. They are timid in small groups.

There is no such thing as a cleaner fish. If you overfeed, feed less. If you have algae, remove and control its sources. "Cleaner" fish are only going to create more waste for you to pick up.

There aren't a whole lot of options for centerpiece fish, especially if you don't want them to eat your shrimp.

 

Yeah 10 gal, sorry I forgot! Keep it a steady stock indeed. Maybe a betta in a larger tank later down the line.

 

Hey I'm not sure if anyone is still out there but I've been looking around for the past few hours and it seems that I'd be able to keep some neon tetras (school of 6) with a beta. What do you guys think?

As a side note what would you suggest as a good loner algae eater for a community tank?

 

Hey I'm not sure if anyone is still out there but I've been looking around for the past few hours and it seems that I'd be able to keep some neon tetras (school of 6) with a beta. What do you guys think?

As a side note what would you suggest as a good loner algae eater for a community tank?

Neon tetras are far too active for a 10 and not temp. compatible with Bettas. Best lone algae eater IMO is a nerite snail

 

Also, remember you don't need an algae eater. You are the best at preventing and controlling algae. Algae eaters add waste.