Started A New Tank And Feeling Somewhat Overwhelmed

HI there,

We have a new tank (and yes it is cycled, did a fishless cycle with the help of the 5 gallon established tank). It is 29 Gallon, Marineland Biowheel, no extra lighting yet, other than the lid. Waiting for some extra LED lighting to come in, should be here in a few weeks. This is my 11 year old daughter's tank, but treating it as my own until everything is running smoothly and underway.

Here is my plan, after doing soooooo much research, we decided to put our Beta Into a community tank. To do this, we are wanting to establish first, a heavily, but not overwhelming planted tank. Still working on that, slowly. Then to get peaceful tank mates (and swim at different levels). The goal is to stock the tank over 1-2 months in 4 different phases, and also to keep planting (as I can order them). And I am also planning to get some dwarf water lettuce in April when they come out and in season.

Phase one: 2 male Platies, 2 male Swordtails and 1 bristlenose pleco.

Phase two: small school of Neon Tetras.

Phase three: Small school of false Harlequin Rasboras.

Last phase is to add Hugo, our Betta, and maybe a dwarf Female Gourami, (not sure yet) when the plants have filled in. This is so that both won't feel territorial as they will be the last to be added and the plants will disrupt the line of site and create a safe and peaceful tank.

The first phase is complete and I already think I got it wrong. First off, the nice LFS guy gave me an extra Platy and it is a female!!!! He said to just use the fry as food for the other fish........This kind of bothers me and now I am overwhelmed at the idea of having this platy releasing continual fry!!! AND she is in a tank with 4 males!!! (ST's can crossbreed with platys). And they are the kings of excrement!!! Oh my word do these things poop!!!! Then I discovered that I forgot to do ALL research on the ST. Apparently 2 males generally don't get along. And at first this looked to be true as the larger one did pick on the smaller, but then the next day they seemed to have worked things out, but now today the smaller one is hanging on the bottom. I am not panicking yet, (or should I) and think I will give him a week or two to adjust to the new environment? (Also just tested the water - not strips - yesterday and all was good).

So here I am thinking I have already messed up. Input please,

Thanks for reading!

 

HI I probably won't be able to be much help to you here as I'm new to the hobby but I asked a stocking question about tetra's with betta's and the general response was they don't mix well. Some have had success apparently but it seems to be down to the individual fish's personality. Was also a similar response to a Dwarf Gourami with a Betta if I remember correctly.
Anyone out there please feel free to correct me if I'm mistaken!

 

What exactly are your water parameters? Seems like a lot of fish to have added at once in your first phase especially since all of those fish are very heavy on the bioload.

I also think you're pushing it with the swordtails as they can get to around 4 inches. Is the betta in the 5 gallon right now? If so, I'd leave him there. It's always a risk putting a betta in a community tank and with the swordtails, platies, the 2 mid dwelling fish and the gourami, you'd over stock your tank. I'd return the female platy also as it would be harassed to death. The neons are not temp compatible with the betta. And with the betta in the tank, it's at the upper end of the pleco's temp range which you won't want to keep at permanently as it causes shorter lifespans.

 

HI I probably won't be able to be much help to you here as I'm new to the hobby but I asked a stocking question about tetra's with betta's and the general response was they don't mix well. Some have had success apparently but it seems to be down to the individual fish's personality. Was also a similar response to a Dwarf Gourami with a Betta if I remember correctly.
Anyone out there please feel free to correct me if I'm mistaken!

HI there ,

I heard that as well, and that is why I am going for the Neons. They the most peaceful of the tarts I heard, and they swim mid tank, and also there will be a lot of plants too. I am more concerned about the rasboras as they are upper to mid tank swimmers and apparently quite zippy. But, also the most peaceful of the rasboras, soooooo???

 

Neons won't work, they are not temp compatible with bettas. I would return the female platy, because unless you want to get 2-3 more she will be harassed to death.

You might want to do a water change, because all the fish you just added might make an ammonia spike.

 

What exactly are your water parameters? Seems like a lot of fish to have added at once in your first phase especially since all of those fish are very heavy on the bioload.

I also think you're pushing it with the swordtails as they can get to around 4 inches. Is the betta in the 5 gallon right now? If so, I'd leave him there. It's always a risk putting a betta in a community tank and with the swordtails, platies, the 2 mid dwelling fish and the gourami, you'd over stock your tank. I'd return the female platy also as it would be harassed to death. The neons are not temp compatible with the betta. And with the betta in the tank, it's at the upper end of the pleco's temp range which you won't want to keep at permanently as it causes shorter lifespans.

HI there,

Thank-you for your input. Not to argue, just to bounce off some thoughts, I see that the Pleco temp. Is between 70-80 degrees F. , the Neons, 70-81, and the Betta is between 74 and 80. Both tanks are currently at 76.???? But ideally platies, ST and Betta are 78? Would 76 be a good medium?

Also, I have read so much about how the Neons are supposed to be the best bet for tank mate with a Betta. Also because of the heavily planted tank. Weird. I hear you on the bio load!!! I will look to rehome one ST and the Female Platy. And yes the Betta is in the 5g.

Ok, question,

If you are saying that my first phase had too many fish ( not arguing, just restating), then how do people add their schooling fish? Unless you put in a few at a time, but wouldn't that be more stressful? This whole stocking thing is stressful!!!

Neons won't work, they are not temp compatible with bettas. I would return the female platy, because unless you want to get 2-3 more she will be harassed to death.

You might want to do a water change, because all the fish you just added might make an ammonia spike.

Are you referring to Neon Tetras? I am confused. I have read they good between 70-81, and Bettas are 74-80.

And yes, I am testing every second day. Yesterday all was good. Will check again tomorrow.

 

Bettas should ideally be kept at 77-80F and neon tetras prefer cooler water, while cardinal tetras look and act the same except for a longer red stripe and can be kept in warmer water.

Sword tails, platies and BN plecos produce more waste than most schooling fish.

 

Ok, question,

If you are saying that my first phase had too many fish ( not arguing, just restating), then how do people add their schooling fish? Unless you put in a few at a time, but wouldn't that be more stressful? This whole stocking thing is stressful!!!

When adding schooling fish, as long as you add a few at a time and it is temporary, they'll be ok. I have a school of 9 black neons and I added them 3 at a time.

 

HI there,

Thank-you for your input. Not to argue, just to bounce off some thoughts, I see that the Pleco temp. Is between 70-80 degrees F. , the Neons, 70-81, and the Betta is between 74 and 80. Both tanks are currently at 76.???? But ideally platies, ST and Betta are 78? Would 76 be a good medium?

Also, I have read so much about how the Neons are supposed to be the best bet for tank mate with a Betta. Also because of the heavily planted tank. Weird. I hear you on the bio load!!! I will look to rehome one ST and the Female Platy. And yes the Betta is in the 5g.

Where are you checking these requirements for fish? Many sites are unreliable. I would refer to fishbase, seriouslyfish or planetcatfish. Bettas like it at 78-80F which is at the upper limit for BN plecos and completely out of range for neon tetras that like it below 75F. I would keep the betta in its own 5g. They are solitary fish and don't need or want tankmates. You could then stock the 29 gallon with the current fish you have (minus the extra swordtail and female platy).

Yes, many people stock bettas and neons together but it isn't the right thing to do. As mentioned, they will suffer shorter lifespans when kept in temps out of their range permanently.

As for initially stocking the tank, you only want to add just a few small fish with a low bioload so as not to overwhelm your bacteria colony. Can you please list your water parameters - pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate? I would also test for the next several days to watch for spikes.

 

When adding schooling fish, as long as you add a few at a time and it is temporary, they'll be ok. I have a school of 9 black neons and I added them 3 at a time.

Over a period of....? . Please (I am soaking all this in)

Where are you checking these requirements for fish? Many sites are unreliable. I would refer to fishbase, seriouslyfish or planetcatfish. Bettas like it at 78-80F which is at the upper limit for BN plecos and completely out of range for neon tetras that like it below 75F. I would keep the betta in its own 5g. They are solitary fish and don't need or want tankmates. You could then stock the 29 gallon with the current fish you have (minus the extra swordtail and female platy).

Yes, many people stock bettas and neons together but it isn't the right thing to do. As mentioned, they will suffer shorter lifespans when kept in temps out of their range permanently.

As for initially stocking the tank, you only want to add just a few small fish with a low bioload so as not to overwhelm your bacteria colony. Can you please list your water parameters - pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate? I would also test for the next several days to watch for spikes.

Ahhhhh, ok! Boy am I ever regretting getting these fish!!! I wish I just did one Platy, one ST and the BP. I got three fish too many! And Thank-you for the site recommendations!! So going from here, wait a week to make sure all stats are steady (planning to do a 50% water change Sunday, and/or sooner if all goes to ......), Then add the new fish, 3 at a time?

Yesterday, the tank was 7.5 PH, Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 5.

Should I test every day instead for the first week?

 

Test daily over the next week or so to ensure your ammonia and nitrite stay at 0. Nitrates you'll want to keep below 20 by doing regular water changes at least weekly.

If your ammonia and nitrite hold at 0 for a week, I'd say you could add 6-8 harlequin rasboras next. You could split them up by doing 3-4 one week and then 3-4 the next week, while again testing parameters in between. Personally, I'd skip the neons and just do one larger school of rasboras 10-12. And I wouldn't add the DG since you have the swordtail and platies. You could probably add a shoal of kuhlI loaches or corydoras for the bottom if you have sand or smooth gravel?

 

I think you could add the betta, just make sure he has the right personality.

 

I think you could add the betta, just make sure he has the right personality.

There'd be no way to ensure he has the "right personality". They may seem fine for a couple of months even and then one day, just snap. As mentioned, not temp compatible with some of the fish the OP has planned.

 

Over a period of....? . Please (I am soaking all this in)

I added them at 2 week intervals. They spent 2 weeks in my QT tank, and then I transferred them over. Many people here choose to QT longer, so that is up to you. I get my fish from the same LFS, and I always look a day or 2 before I get them, and also check how long the store has had them and take that into consideration as well when I decide how long to QT.

 

Ok, today's reading is .5 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, 5 Nitrate, and 7.5. Ammonia on the rise, when should I do a water change?

In other news:. I crashed Betta tank, :-(. I think when I rinsed the filter in the discarded tank water before I put it into the new tank. Which I do not understand, because the filter Instructions say to change the filter every month. This filter was 2 months old. By crash I mean cannot register PH, .5 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, and 10-20 Nitrate. Gonna do a water change tomorrow and start the bacteria Nutrafin cycle again.

 

Do you have Seachem Prime to help detoxify ammonia and nitrite? If not, it would help to pick up a bottle as the ammonia you have may be toxic to them. What's the pH and temp in the 29g? If the ammonia and nitrite get to 1 or above, you'll want to do at least a 50% water change.

You put the filter media from the betta tank to the 29g? Did you put a brand new filter cartridge into the betta tank? You don't want to replace the cartridge like the manufacturer tells you to. That's just their ploy to sell more cartridges. You only need to rinse it well in removed tank water or in dechlorinated tap water at least weekly and then put it right back into the filter. It houses the beneficial bacteria that holds your cycle. What color is the pH showing on the betta tank? Can you also test your tap water for everything?

 

Do you have Seachem Prime to help detoxify ammonia and nitrite? If not, it would help to pick up a bottle as the ammonia you have may be toxic to them. What's the pH and temp in the 29g? If the ammonia and nitrite get to 1 or above, you'll want to do at least a 50% water change.

You put the filter media from the betta tank to the 29g? Did you put a brand new filter cartridge into the betta tank? You don't want to replace the cartridge like the manufacturer tells you to. That's just their ploy to sell more cartridges. You only need to rinse it well in removed tank water or in dechlorinated tap water at least weekly and then put it right back into the filter. It houses the beneficial bacteria that holds your cycle. What color is the pH showing on the betta tank? Can you also test your tap water for everything?

The Ammonia got up to 1 today (so glad you suggested for me to test every day). PH I believe is 7.5, as with the regular PH test it is the highest colour and then on the High PH test, it registers the lowest. What's with that? And the Temperature is 77 or 78 (sorry, only have the cheap mercury thermometer). I didn't do a 50% as I didn't see this till now, haha. I did about 20% (I think I need to get a bigger bucket for water disposal, yikes, XP). But I also did a really good gravel clean. Oh my goodness, those live bearers are SOOOOO messy! The tank looks so much better now! I will testy tap water tomorrow when I retest the tank. When I added more water, I added the following: aquarium salt, (was thinking of adding some Himalayan pink salt instead next time for the minerals?), Prime - always, Nutrifin Cycle - always, Flourish excel, and liquid iron. I should have the rest of the plants I plant on having in the tank by next Wednesday, and also have a line on some Dwarf Water Lettuce, and might also pick up that next week for both tanks. I plan on bringing the ST and female Platy back to the store when I do.

I also did a water change for the Betta (Hugo). Easier to do a 50%, haha. He actually loves it and loves when I put my hands in there to adjust anything (he swims real close to my hand and just hangs out). His Nitrates are hanging around 20 and I know that is supposed to be normal it makes me nervous for such a little tank. The colour for the OH (Only did the regular pH test) is the lightest blue, which is the lowest it can test at, so it might be even lower than 6, :-(.

Regarding the filter, I had don't a 25% water change, then rinsed the filter Into the disposal water, then added the disposal water to the bigger tank. I think maybe it was because I did a water change the same day, so I lost too much good bacteria. I also just ordered some extra filters (off Amazon) and am going to stuff them in there with the first one (on both tanks). I heard that is a good thing to do.

 

On the 29g, if your ammonia was at 1, you would want to do at least 50% to get the ammonia under 1 as 20% really won't help. What are the nitrite and nitrates? You would take the higher of the pH values when testing the two ranges. Also, I would skip adding salt. Good for some illnesses but definitely not needed for a freshwater tank.

As for the betta tank, 20ppm nitrates are ok but try to get them lower than that. Getting a water changer will help make water changes easier esp for the 29g. If the pH is a light blue, I would think that's higher than 6, more towards 7. Do you mean it was a light green?

And I wouldn't add the old tank water to any tank. Bacteria doesn't live in the water column and all you're adding are toxins and dirty water.

 

I would consider investing in a water changer. I have a python brand one & water changes take me 30 min total to do a 50-60% change weekly on my 34 gallon tank.
I am trying to catch up on this thread but am confused about why you are adding so much to the tanks. My personal preference is to get the tank water stabilized before worrying about fertilizers and the like. Can you list out all the test results for both tanks? Which one has the super low pH?

 

On the 29g, if your ammonia was at 1, you would want to do at least 50% to get the ammonia under 1 as 20% really won't help. What are the nitrite and nitrates? You would take the higher of the pH values when testing the two ranges. Also, I would skip adding salt. Good for some illnesses but definitely not needed for a freshwater tank.

As for the betta tank, 20ppm nitrates are ok but try to get them lower than that. Getting a water changer will help make water changes easier esp for the 29g. If the pH is a light blue, I would think that's higher than 6, more towards 7. Do you mean it was a light green?

And I wouldn't add the old tank water to any tank. Bacteria doesn't live in the water column and all you're adding are toxins and dirty water.

Oops, sorry, got the colour wrong. I meant lightest yellow for the Betta/5 gallon. And did a 50% water change because of the Nitrates. Should I add crushed coral to the filter?

Did a 50% water change just now on the 29. The Nitrites are 0, Nitrates are 5. How long do you think it will take to even out again, (go back to 0 Ammonia)? I am taking back two fish tomorrow, so will be down to the BN Pleco, 1 Swordtail, and 2 male Platies.

Regarding the tank water; thank-you, I will remember that for next time, .

 

I would consider investing in a water changer. I have a python brand one & water changes take me 30 min total to do a 50-60% change weekly on my 34 gallon tank.
I am trying to catch up on this thread but am confused about why you are adding so much to the tanks. My personal preference is to get the tank water stabilized before worrying about fertilizers and the like. Can you list out all the test results for both tanks? Which one has the super low pH?

Lol, yes of course, here we go,

I started with the 5 gallon 2 months ago, and it has our Betta. All the parameters were good. We went and bought the 29 because my daughter wanted more fish to look at.

29 gallon is about three weeks old now. I did a fishless cycle using decorations and water from the 5 gallon. I also rinsed my 5 gallon filter Into the tank as well and used Nutrifin Cycle. After 10 days it was cycled.

Today:

5 gallon now has low PH (see picture above post), with everything else good except nitrates are 20.

29 gallon: went and got some fish to start the stocking process. Apparently I started too fast by adding 6 live bearers. (TBH, I didn't realise the implications until we got them home. Holy moly, these things are excrementing machines). I also did some other miscalculations....Such as two male Swordtails together - not good, and not realizing what their adult size will be - 4", (gonna take back one tomorrow) and letting the store guy talk me into bringing home a female Platy with the other two male Platys and 2 Swordtails which can crossbreed with the platy (poor thing; gonna take her back tomorrow too). So, needless to say, my Ammonia is now going up, and is at 1, but Nitrite is still 0, and Nitrate is still 5, and pH is 7.6.

Just did a 50% water change.

I added the other stuff because I thought I needed to because I have a gravel substrate in both tank and live plants.

I hope that make sense?

 

Thanks for the review. My questions are about the pH at this point. What is the pH of your 29 & coming out of your tap? If the pH of 6.0 in the Betta tank new or has that been constant?

 

Thanks for the review. My questions are about the pH at this point. What is the pH of your 29 & coming out of your tap? If the pH of 6.0 in the Betta tank new or has that been constant?

Just tested the 29 again, and now I think, like many said, I put too many into a minI cycle, :-(. Ammonia .5, nitrite .25, nitrate still at 5. I just does with Nutrifin Cycle again.

The 29 pH is 7.6, and I have always had issues with the Betta tank (my first ever post/thread on here). Back then I had test strips. After that I went to the API, but other things came up and I didn't test pH for a long while. I just did a full range on it because I was doing the other one. Tap water pH is 6.4, ! How does it goes down in one tank and up in the other?

 

I don't know how you are getting it to rise in one tank and drop in the other... what substrate are you using in each? Coral decorations in either?
Another call for CindiL because you are now officially out of my depth.
All that being said - take what I say with a grain of salt at least. The LFS thought I was crazy today when I told them about my history of pH crash due to low kH, I mean they were polite, but clearly thought I was nuts. All I can say is that my pH is now steady since I have added crushed shells to my filter.

 

I don't know how you are getting it to rise in one tank and drop in the other... what substrate are you using in each? Coral decorations in either?
Another call for CindiL because you are now officially out of my depth.
All that being said - take what I say with a grain of salt at least. The LFS thought I was crazy today when I told them about my history of pH crash due to low kH, I mean they were polite, but clearly thought I was nuts. All I can say is that my pH is now steady since I have added crushed shells to my filter.

Haha, I appreciate your walking with me about this and your time to respond. I don't know what KH is, XP. But I was thinking of doing crushed coral in my Bettas filter? I am also waiting on some dwarf water lettuce for both tanks which helps things (cannot remember what right now, haha). Plus it helps fill some of the dead space at the top of the tank. Hopefully this week, if not then April 1st is when the nurseries are open again and they will have it. Oh, I thought I had the same gravel in both, but perhaps not? I didn't examine the bags though as I got them all at different times (first one bag for the 5, saw it wasn't enough, then went back and got some more but from a different store. Then for the 29, we got a jumbo bag, rinsed as it was SUPER dirty/orange silt, and found it wasn't enough, then went to a different store and bought larger gravel/different brand - thought we were going to get Cory's so I was worried about their mouths and that gravel almost didnt need any rinsing as it rinsed clean).

Question, which tank would I put the crushed coral or seashells into?

 

If the low pH in the Betta tank is due to low kH then the crushed coral would help stabilize the pH.

 

Oops, sorry, got the colour wrong. I meant lightest yellow for the Betta/5 gallon. And did a 50% water change because of the Nitrates. Should I add crushed coral to the filter?

Did a 50% water change just now on the 29. The Nitrites are 0, Nitrates are 5. How long do you think it will take to even out again, (go back to 0 Ammonia)? I am taking back two fish tomorrow, so will be down to the BN Pleco, 1 Swordtail, and 2 male Platies.

Regarding the tank water; thank-you, I will remember that for next time, .

If the pH is that low, I would definitely get a KH test kit and some coral added to your filters in both tanks. AI'm to get the KH out of the tanks to at least 5 drops.

What are your levels today? It could take a few more weeks to cycle. Adding a bacteria supplement like Seachem Stability will help along with the continued water changes and Prime to detox the ammonia/nitrite.