So, I'm not supposed to vacuum the gravel while cycling

ricktavious
  • #1
I should spend more time on this board, I've learned alot. I'm having trouble cycling/keeping ammonia level down (it's been between .5 and 1), but have been told to vacuum the gravel and get all the poo and food up to keep everything safe for the fish. So now I come to find this isn't the case.

So from what I've gathered from reading, do a water change every day (albeit a smaller one), leave the gravel alone, use Prime (assuming a pet store around here has it, I live in hick central!), and the tank should take care of itself given patience.

Would the Fish Lore panel of experts agree?
 
vin
  • #2
I wouldn't vacuum the gravel until the cycle is complete...It could set you back. And when it does cycle I would only vacuum 1/3 of the gravel per week...What are you treating your water with? What are the nitrite and nitrate readings? If you're using a good water conditioner such as Prime or Amquel+ that detoxifies ammonia and nitrites then .5 isn't so bad...As long as you're changing water regularly - 25-30% at least once per day.....
 
ricktavious
  • Thread Starter
  • #3
Hey vin, thanks for the answer. Right now, I am treating the water with StressZyme (which I have just learned is useless) and Aquasafe. I don't have the actual testing kit for nitrate and nitrites, but at the pet store, they said that those levels are where they should be.

Also, when I got the tank, I was fed bad info from the seller, so the cycling process hasn't been going the way it should as of now, nor was I properly equiped for the process. Playing catch-up sucks, especially when it could be harming my buddy Hopefully I'll be able to pick up Prime or Amquel today and will continue doing the water changes daily.

So, when do I know the cycle is completed? Will the ammonia level be at zero, or is there another sign I should look for?
 
sgould
  • #4
How long has the tank been set up? To be fully cycled, both ammonia and nitrites must spike upwards, then receed down to 0, while you have "some reading" on nitrate. If you don't have the test kit, I would highly recommend getting one. I can't tell you how many posts have been made from people whose lfs told them their levels were fine when they were not.
 
Jendayi
  • #5
The API Master test kit is a reliable water testing kit. You can find it online or at Pet-Smart/Co. Don't bother with the dipping strips, they are not accurate enough.

Also, when I got the tank, I was fed bad info from the seller, so the cycling process hasn't been going the way it should as of now, nor was I properly equiped for the process. Playing catch-up sucks, especially when it could be harming my buddy Hopefully I'll be able to pick up Prime or Amquel today and will continue doing the water changes daily.

Don't beat yourself up about this. I made all the same mistakes with my first betta, and then some. You are doing the right thing by learning all you can and you are giving your little buddy a good home.

So, when do I know the cycle is completed? Will the ammonia level be at zero, or is there another sign I should look for?

Once you have the ability to reliably test your water, keep track of your values daily. When Ammonia = 0, Nitrites = 0, and Nitrates have some value above zero your tank is cycled. Keep in mind that the process is going to be very slow because you are going to be doing daily water changes to keep the environment safe for Ricktavious, and also the meds he is on now for fin rot will probably kill of some of the good bacteria that may already be in the tank.

Good info: https://www.fishlore.com/NitrogenCycle.htm
 
Gunnie
  • #6
One thing you will learn in this hobby is that there are exceptions to just about everything, and sometimes there are more than one way to do things. When I started my first tank, I had to rely on the lady at the fish store on how to cycle a tank, and did so with fish. Before I found these lovely fish forums, my tank was cycled with 3 zebra danios, and they did just fine. I vacumed half the gravel each week, and I'm not sure how long the tank took to cycle, but by the time I learned about the API master test kit, the tank was cycled. One of the things that newbies tend to do (myself included) is overfeed their fish. Do you think you need to vacuum your gravel because of excessive food on the bottom of the tank? If it's really full of waste, I'd try cutting back on feeding only once a day and only as much as your fish will eat in about 3 minutes, and vacuum 1/4 of the gravel to start off with.

What fish do you have in that tank and how big is it? What filter(s) do you have running on the tank? Prime would be good to use as your water conditioner while your tank is cycling. Amquel plus is also a good one.
 

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