Setting Up a SW Tank: Many Questions...

Hey duuuudes - doubt if anyone even remembers me (been aaaaaaaaaaaaaages since I last posted!).

I've recently bought myself a house (how grownup!), and now that I have room and persueded t'other half to go along with the plan to buy myself a marine set-up (by persueded I mean telling him that I'd be buying myself this set-up, and any agrument would result in the locks being changed while he was at work).

Anyhoo after spending years keeping freshwater tropical fish, I've decided to have a go at keeping some marines! Nothing fancy like a big reef set-up, just something with Live Sand & Rock, a few fish and *maybe* a few mushroom/button polyps. I've done loads and loads and loads of research to find out what to do etc - as I'm sure you're all aware, nobody has ever written the same thing twice - in fact the only constant in the marine keeping world seems to be the fact that you need saltwater.

As such I have a few questions (looking for very dumbed-down advice basically). I wanna know what works out best for everyone else...

I've seen the aquarium I want - 300 (UK) Litres / 66 (UK) Gallons (or I think about 80 US Gallons) <<<----- keep that in mind for some of the questions.

I plan to use a combo of media to keep water quality high. I already have a triple water purifier/softner attached to the plumbing, and I can easy attach an RO filter if needed.

1. Live Rock / Live Sand - how much?

I read that about 1" depth of live sand is about right to use, placing the live rock on the glass, and smoothing the sand around it for better circulation/filtration. True/False?
Also - roughly how much live rock to use? Again, I understand that this is best to be stacked so that water can circulate.

2. Marine "Safe Start" - anyone tried? If anyone hasn't heard of this, it's basically a prepackaged bottle of bacteria to kick-start the cycling process. I'll admit, I tried the freshwater stuff and it worked wonders in those tanks, but I wasn't sure about with marines. The reason I ask is coz I wanted to buy the above live rock/sand, but I figured that 'dumping' that straight into saltwater that hasn't cycled might kill off the good stuff, and so I was planning to maybe use the Safe Start to try and protect the rock/sand, but decrease the cycling time...

3. Filtration - obviously I'll have the live rock/sand, but the tank also comes with an undertank filter. What is best to use in this? I was thinking of using some more crushed live rock, or some crushed coral sand with a layer of carbon filter mixed in (as opposed to the usual foam filter pads). Does anyone use an external filter as well as live sand/rock - if so, what?

4. Powerheads - I just don't understand... yes I know you need one to recreate the current and circulisation of the water, but what size/power/strength/whatever do I need for a 300 Litre tank - I don't wanna blow the fishes brains out! I'm planning to use a spraybar as the return from the external filter.

5. Protein Skimmer - can anyone advise of a good skimmer? I Like the Red Sea Prizm ones, if I use one of these as an "external" undercabinet tool, will I need a sump tray, or can it just be used 'free standing'?

6. The Inhabitants - I was thinking about clean-up crew and fishes, so far I was thinking:

2 x Cleaner Shrimp
2/3 x Dwarf Red/Blue legged hermit crabs
2/3 x Narcissus Snails

2 x Common/Percula Clownfish
2 x BanggaI Cardinalfish
1 x Yellow Tang

^^^ Would that be too much strain on the filtration and system? Too small for the tang? Lots of places say about 70 Gallons min to keep the tang, but I never know if they're refering to UK/US Gallons

Obviously all the fish wouldn't be added at once.

If anyone had any ideas, please let me know coz while I don't wanna rush things - I'm keen to get started!

TTFN,
Andy

 

1. LR definitely. Amt depends on tank dimension and shapes but generally 1- 1.5lb/Gal. Also depends on how you aquascape.
LS; Personally never believe in packages LS w/ expiration date. Given enough LR and time, any dead sand will become active. Usually took shovel down to beach and brought home some. Bet you this sand will be more livelier (?) than packaged LS.

2. Never believed in such product and besides LR will do that for you. As long as s/w in the tank is well aged, could/should add Cured LR directly into tank. Could use uncured LR in the tank too but little messy and foul odors (decaying dead matters)maybe bit bothersome. Even cured Rock may have to be recured somewhat depending duration out of water due to shipping.
W/ Cured LR, less chance of getting troublesome hitchhikers compared to uncured LR. Personally prefers uncured and did whatever I need to do to cure and save/isolate varieties of marine life (oysters, sponges, polyps, etc) otherwise difficult to obtain or have to pay for them.

3. Rather than Canister, Sump/Refuge is preferred and beneficial. Google for more info.

4. PH: No set rule since depends on aquascaping and amt /type of corals. Usually I used 4 x PH on 75 G (300GPH -400GPH/PH) on Wavemakers and even more if necessary. Loved the effect of Water movement under Metal Halides(Shadow) in dark Fishroom. Relaxing at least for me and put me to sleep in very comfy Lazboy in front of tank, lol.

5. W/O Sump/REfuge, HOB or internal () Skmmer. First choice is VenturI Skimmer either in sump or external over HOB Venturi.

6. Personally, would like to add fish first when tank is ready (well cycled) then CUC though will hear different opinions. I would not hesitate to add that amt of fish if were mine but that all depends on your know-how.
From my experiences, adding one tang/fish at time resulted in battles where I can loose many fishes. Always added 3 or more tangs/fishes at a time w/o overloading. Controllable via controlled feeding and water changes if needed.
Wether tank is big enough to handle the tang or other fish, leave it up to you.
Start off small and accommodate their needs as they grow. IMHO, anyone who insist what can and can not, why do we bother removing these wild fish from their home since better off in their natural environment. On the other hand, at least and hopefully, they're not part of food chain (little comfort for guilty conscience mind and should accommodate their needs as needed).

Hope this helped a bit. Am sure someone will direct you to links on Sump/Refuge Principles.

 

^^^ thanks... I'm familiar with Sumps/Refugeums (if that how you spell that?)

Any more ideas about power heads is welcome... I didn't realise people use that many in a set-up, all the ones I've seen here have had 1 or 2 at most for really big tanks (maybe they were jst really powerful ones).

Cheers,
Andy

 

As far as PH is concerned, it should be your judgement call according to your LR layout and placement of certain types of corals (No TWO tanks are alike). Have done Shallow Tanks (12-14" in height) w/o Sump. All I had was numerous PH b/n the rocks hooked up to Wavemaker and external Prot Sk above tank where water from skimmer returned into little internal box w/ foam to rid of fine bubbles from skimmer. This was done with Standard Flo Strip but w/ specific bulbs. Actually done well with LPS (including Goniopora, Alveopora), softies, and Non-photo corals (Dentro, etc) for quite long time. As you probably know, Proper Equipments are important but more important thing is the Reefers know-how, at least IMO.
Even w/ Tridacna as long as kept up high w/ little or no disturance (relocating, etc) once mounted. Although admit Tridacna displayed better under VHO, MH.

Patience is the key in fish keeping but when you think you ready, go for it. Everyone makes mistakes (even w/ know-how and good intention) but don't repeat same error. I learned lot before (basics) reefing, but learned lot more as reefer.

Always think and think and reason before making decision/move

Keep Reefing..

Ps: Look into Tunze Wavemaker/Surger. Saw price tag of around $600 in lfs. See if can make DIY contraption which can yield similar results w/o spending mega bucks. (PH which can pump 1000 GPH or more encased in acrylic box and hook up to cheap Surging Power Strip, perhaps)
PH blowing constantly in fixed direction may not yield SWAYING action of Coral when compared to PHs on Wavemakers.

 

Oh absolutely, I figured that no 2 tanks were the same... bought the tank today! yay!

 

normal turn over from powerheads should be 20x so your looking at 6000 lph try not to go under 15xs as you will end up with lots of dead spots ,, As for safe start I would nt bother you will use the rock to cycle,, as for a skimmer the red sea max takes a lot of constant adjustment to keep it working properly , try a deltec mce300 if you have a 300 litre tank ,, they are about £112 new and I had one working on a 120 uk gal tank for a few months and worked better then the larger skimmer rated for my tank ,As for cuc I would add as required as you can starve them if there is no food for them i.e algae ,

 

normal turn over from powerheads should be 20x so your looking at 6000 lph try not to go under 15xs as you will end up with lots of dead spots ,, As for safe start I would nt bother you will use the rock to cycle,, as for a skimmer the red sea max takes a lot of constant adjustment to keep it working properly , try a deltec mce300 if you have a 300 litre tank ,, they are about £112 new and I had one working on a 120 uk gal tank for a few months and worked better then the larger skimmer rated for my tank ,As for cuc I would add as required as you can starve them if there is no food for them i.e algae ,

cool... thanks! I haven't heard of those skimmers before, I'll have to keep an eye out!

 

Dont forget Lighting. Lighting is important factor. Your aquarium needs to experience a mimicked day and night. Many beginner aquarists can make the mistake of forgetting to switch off their aquarium lights. For a fish-only aquarium, lights can be kept on for 6 to 8 hours a day and the lights can be kept on for 12 to 14 hours a day for aquariums that include plants.

 

Dont forget Lighting. Lighting is important factor. Your aquarium needs to experience a mimicked day and night. Many beginner aquarists can make the mistake of forgetting to switch off their aquarium lights. For a fish-only aquarium, lights can be kept on for 6 to 8 hours a day and the lights can be kept on for 12 to 14 hours a day for aquariums that include plants.

^^^ that bit is all sorted... I place them on a timer to come on/off in stages