Seriously I dont know what to do

Discussion in 'Saltwater Aquarium Filter' started by Nate41590, Apr 13, 2010.

  1. Nate41590Valued MemberMember

    Ok so i have a remora pro with mag 3, and the biggest eheim wet/dry canister ($$$$). Anyway i'm having trouble keeping my water clear. My rocks are looking dirty with a bunch of brown dust sitting on them, and around them. I think what part of the problem is, is that im not using RO water (yet) i bought a phos-zorb and it worked great but it got old and i took it out and havent replaced it yet. so i think phosphate is building up and causing ugly brown algae. But what should i do about mechanical filtration? Because filter floss in the eheim is useless. The way it lets the water trickle down, the floss hardly sees much water and it doesnt collect much. I put a floss sleeve over the intake of the filter and it got pretty darn dirty, quickly. I was told that mechanical filtration was bad because it caused nitrates to build up. and that all i needed was a good skimmer (which i have) and good bio-filtration (which i have). So now im angry because, it seems that mechanical filtration is very much needed in a 90 FOWLR system. So what should i do guys? what kind of filter should i buy now??
  2. Nate41590Valued MemberMember

    Oh and one more thing, should i say to the filter floss/ pads, and just get random chemical pouches/ resins, and add that to the media in the filter i already have? if so which ones?

    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 17, 2010
  3. locoyo386Well Known MemberMember

    I keep FOWLR tanks only, I have the 3 types of filtration; Mechanical, Biological and Chemichal. For that size tank I would use two AquaClear 110 filters. I use activated carbon for the chemichal filtration and "live rock" for the biological filtration.

    I am assuming that the ramora with mag 3 is the protein skimmer, I do not use them at all even on my 240 gallon tank. As far as the eheim canister filter not sure how they work, I have never used canister filters at all. The filtration media I use is the one that comes with the hang on the back filters, I have AquaClear, Marneland Pinguin, Aqeaon QuietOne and some type of Aqeuon or Tetra power filter. The reason they say that nirates are high when using mechanical filtration is because you have to keep up with the cleaning of the filter and replacing the sponges. Otherwise the waste breacks down and rasies your nitrates and phosphates. If you clean them every week when doing your weekly water chages you should be fine.

    I clean mine every time I do water changes. From my experience high nitrates are not all that bad for fish but they cn cause algae growth, same goes for phosphates. I usually do not let my levels of nitrates reach 160, but not worried when they are around 80, thus I keep them between 80-160. I do the water changes every time I want to reduced them and typiclly do a 50% water change. It has been working out for me so far.

  4. Nate41590Valued MemberMember

    hmm thats a different approach! what kind of fish are you keeping? do you have any pictures??

  5. Nate41590Valued MemberMember

    ok locoyo386 i just saw your video of your tank on the my thread about keeping 2 tangs together. How are your tangs doing? What size tank are they in? your 240gal? im seriously going to get some type of new filter in my tank. im gonna look at the aquaclears that you mentioned. because your tank looks very clean and clear, and thats what i want. i noticed that the aqua clear does bio filtration too. i really just want some serious mechanical and chemical. i want to be able to use filter floss, and micron pads, stuff like that. do you think the aquaclear's little piece of foam would be enough for my whole 90gal tank?? do you use RO water?? and yes the remora with mag 3 is a protein skimmer
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2010
  6. locoyo386Well Known MemberMember

    Hi there, well you can find some of the videos I have on youtube, they are under the same ID as here. The Tnags are in different Tanks, I have the Purpple and Sailfin in a 55, and I have the Mimic and the Powder Brown in the 240. They got too territorial to be together, all 4 in the same tank. The PT and ST are still small, but they are getting to the point that they might outgrow that tank soon. I might also take out the PBT and the MT and put them in another tank, I am considering a 135G. The reason is that they are very active swimmers and the fish that I have in the 240 or more relaxed and very peacfull, Morish Ido, Some Butterfly Fish, Emperor Angelfish (not really aggressive though) and a Flame Angelfish.

    The AquaClears, should be fine. I would recommend the 110 and two of them, although one might work just fine. I have two of them in the 120G FW, and in the 120G SW and in the 240G SW. The smaller tanks only have one or two that are of different brand. I will be trying a sump in one of my 55's to see how it worksout, but will not have a Protein Skimmer (I might consider making one, just to see how much of a difference they really make).
  7. Nate41590Valued MemberMember

    thats really cool. you have a lot of tanks! i really wanted to get a powder blue tang and yellow tang. but i have heard that i could only keep one...and that i should probably get the yellow. do u us RO water?
  8. nemo addictWell Known MemberMember

    just a point on top of the filtration how much flow do you have within the tank ??? powerheads ??? as lack of flow can cause a build up on rocks ,,,
  9. Stang ManWell Known MemberMember

    The algea that you are having is from possibly high nitrates and maybe high phosphates more than likely nitrates have you tested this area yet?
  10. locoyo386Well Known MemberMember

    Yeah, I use RO water that I buy from a local pet store. I test it for nitrates to make sure they are not being added into my tanks from the water.
  11. Nate41590Valued MemberMember

    I have tested for nitrates and they were under 20, i havent tested for phos yet, i need to order a new test kit, as mine is all gone. i noticed that a phos-zorb pack made a difference so its probably that. And I have a korilla 2, and 3, along with my mag drive 3 powering my protein skimmer, and my canister filter which moves around 150 gph i think. Is that not enough for a 90 gallon? my clown seems to enjoy the movement, but i think much more would stress him out. the 3 blue devils dont even seem to notice the flow, however.
  12. Stang ManWell Known MemberMember

    If your using a canister filter that is the problem causing a high nitrate level be sure to test phosphates as well are you using an R/O water or tap water? Also what do you have in can Are you running it as a mechanical filter?
  13. Nate41590Valued MemberMember

    im using tap, and the canister is the ehiem wet dry, with the coco crispys, inside. its called eufsubstratepro or something weird like that. there isnt any mechanical filtration
  14. Stang ManWell Known MemberMember

    You need to start using R/O water! And ssrub rocks with a brush to get die off on rocks in a separate container do a 50% water change use R/O from now on.
  15. ibiaquariumsValued MemberMember

    I was going to mention... "flow" with in your tank also.... increase flow immediatly if you dont have enough already. This should take care of stangnant areas and massive detrius build ups!

    I was using a fluval 404 with media... activated carbon... an the white block-like-hollow ringed stuff cant remember what their called now lol... ceramic rings i think they are, i also use'd "seachems de-nitrate" as well as beneficial macro-algae aka calipaur algae & cheato algae (i have the beneficial algae in DT at the moment - blenny & snail love it lol - but will move to my refugium once new ext arrives)! My testings for nitrates are always plain and simply a big '0'

    I dont use a protein skimmer either, Just mechanical and biological filteration. My water is crystal clear... and looks so fresh and delicate!!! Glistons under my lighting!!!!

    Heres and interesting update:
    My fluval 404 external is no longer working.. (about a week now) thus so media currently also pretty much out of order/ineffective... althoe ive temporarily managed to hang (activated carbon) them in front of my "substitute/back up" internal filter that im using for the time being which is nowhere near as good as my extrernal fluval, but it manages a decent flow through the media thats better then nothing i guess in DT. The water looks nowhere near as delicate as b4, but its still very clear... i also use tap water, but im here in england and so the quality may differ to yours, im not really sure, but 5 months running ive been abso fine! But my nitrates are still at a wonderfull 0.

    This could be down too... great biological filteration (LR) maybe, or my 50% weekly water changes (doing %50 untill my ext filter back then ill drop to %25, i just wanted to be safe), or could be down to my beneficial macro algae in my DT.

    Althoe ive noticed quite a build up of red slime algae that never got a look in when my fluval etc 404 filter was running.. so i know that is prob because of that!!! My ext produced a much much better flow too.

    Well hopefully ive put forward a few interestings things for anyone to maybe try out!!!
    This is working fine for me so far. Simple, but seems effective.
  16. Stang ManWell Known MemberMember

    I do somewhat agree with your answer but here it goes algael build up comes from alot of different sources it all accurs thru chemical cycling thru nitrogen cycle this has alot to do with starting a reef for one and does have impact thru nitrogen cycle if you are using the correct equipment to acheive this goal! And as well as the purified frsh water that you use for you tank I do not suggest to anyone in all the world we live in that tap water is fine because it is not this water is conditioned to all areas in the world for people to drink I personally have seen the way water is used thru alll out the world and I cannot express enough to all that this water is not good water to use in reef tanks. Water to be used should be a purified water such as R/O or D/I or a combonation of both. Think about it for a minute, The oceans are the purest water on the planet but has salt so we can not drink it! I would drink it !! It's purier than our tap water!!!!
  17. Nate41590Valued MemberMember

    update: my algae is gone. thanks to my amazing clean up crew :eek:). i just hope that the coraline algae starts growing soon. all the rocks are whiteish now.
  18. Stang ManWell Known MemberMember

    It will take awhike for coraline to start flourishing! But you will have other types of algae to deal with so it's not over yet.
  19. ibiaquariumsValued MemberMember

    Yeh i fully understand how you mean. Everyone does things differently i guess. The sea water has alot more chemicals then RO water does (around 85 to be precise), dont ever believe fish dont die even in the natural reef waters due to bad chemicals that can polute their water. RO water is pretty much a stripped substance, which we then manipulate wrong.. or correctly. Remember that an R.O unit just because its an R.O unit doesnt mean its going to work wonders. Like everything life... a crrap or cheap brand will present rubbish quality. You may think your waters the real deal, but it may actually not be.

    Water quality and the systems used world wide really does differ from country to country. I also believe im part of probably along with some others, one of the most developed and cleanest (in terms of production) cities in the world.

    But i suppose if your talking on a 'safe' scale, internationally, and generally for everyone, from rich - to less rich - to poorer countries, and with taking no risks at all... then i agree with you, it is R.O water. The quality levels of tap water are unpredictable, its a real percentage chance you take. I personally cant proove otherwise, but from my own experience so far.. which is not really alot truth be told.. i will say i have had 'no' problems apart from a few things breaking or being broke and need to be replaced, which wernt down to me using tap-water.

    We cant always buy everything at once either, its a costly hobbie.. whos to say you cant start with normal conditioned water, then move over to R.O... im sure plenty of persons do this.

    I currently aint housing any corals/polyps etc.. and maybe if i want to in the future then i would HAVE to use R.O water... however i do have various inverts... species of snails and other well as fish etc, a mitrax that lives in refugium that grew during my initial cycle in my D.P tank.
    The population of baby snails, even sea slugs, copepods, athropods, bristles (althoe some say are bad and some say are good) mysis... lets just say "live" food (for some)... has blown through the roof. Surely if my water werent 'sufficient' then this wouldnt occur.

    I also still have my chiato under minimal lighting at the moment (not by choice - due to the fact im still using very basic lighting that come with the tank 2nd hand, which isnt marine lighting standard really, but i did have a brand new t8 i added to a old-ish t5 & t8, which is better then nothing), chiato is still strong and doing fine.. but with fairly slow/steady growth (for obvious reasons).

    However my calipaur did die, some say it was insuffient nutrients in the water... then ok, fair play i guess lol. cant argue.
    I had no nitrate traces 'after' my m.algae was introduced to do this job, that would mean i need nitrate for it to survive... but my inverts need a nitrate of '0' to also live well.. seems a bit of a vicious circle if you ask me.
    My m.algae was also being picked at while in the DT, guess you cant survive if your being eaten hey. Turbos loved it, not too worry ill buy another one. May even spoil them with one from time to time lol. I hadnt my refugium set up at this time either, so i had no alternative but my D.T!

    I may move over to R.O water... but I read how manier people are experiencing some rediculous problems who use R.O water so i mean, i just ask myself is it really the water. Problems are problems, regardless.

    Ive been 'advised' to use R.O, dont get me wrong im not just trying to be ignorant here, but ive also been told that 'sometimes' tap water can work fine, mainly depending on how its treated and what procedures its gone through before exiting via the tap. (as the saying somewhat goes 'the route of all evil' you cant blame the tap, that just pours it. Its where, what and how its produced that is maybe the route problem.. and sadly this we dont have control over.

    If im to be honest im using tap water mainly due to the limited funds i had at the start of 'set-up' but have not yet changed because nothings gone wrong... should i change in order for something to then go wrong?! hmm, no thanx.

    As im a fair sport, i wouldnt suggest to anyone on using tap water.. thats solely your choice, it was my choice to start my cycle with it... and im doing just fine 7 months on.. still with it! Never had a ph problem, copper/metals prosphate problem, alkaline problem, amm nitrite or nitrate problem, algae bloom or anything. But Im not at all encouraging this method... but i am a person of my own decisions, and methods and so just mearly sharing my experience with you all. :)
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2010
  20. Stang ManWell Known MemberMember

    Have your tap water tested and go from there 0 ammonia 0 nitrites 0 nitrates 0 phosphates 0 minerals 0 silicates then yes that is fine but I also would suggest other factors as well such as chloride chlorimine flouride and the list goes on and on also copper to name a few from using tap.the best water to use is strictly DI water!!!

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice