Septicaemia Orandas?

that is not ich, that is velvet, immediately shutoff your tank lights and dose with paragaurd and put a towel on your tank because the velvet feeds on light and on fish and it has a higher death rate than ich does!

How are you interpreting what’s in the photos as velvet? I see nothing of resemblance to velvet.

 

post message number #113 is the goldfish with velvet on it's body and fins.

 

From what I read, velvet is a tropical fish disease that can affect to goldfish but only if transmitted from an infected tropical tank. My family have a tropical tank but no sign of diseases.

Hard to find good pics of costia.

Hard to say if it is ich. It looks like it but the clumpiness of the white nodules is throwing me off. Plus, I can see it inside my fish's mouth.

My Moor also has it but not as bad.

Could Metroplex work on velvet/costia? I don't want to move my pearlscales but if need be I can move them to the 5 gal QT

 

can you take pics of the black moore?

 

can you take pics of the black moore?

Here

 

From what I read, velvet is a tropical fish disease that can affect to goldfish but only if transmitted from an infected tropical tank. My family have a tropical tank but no sign of diseases.

Hard to find good pics of costia.

Hard to say if it is ich. It looks like it but the clumpiness of the white nodules is throwing me off. Plus, I can see it inside my fish's mouth.

My Moor also has it but not as bad.

Could Metroplex work on velvet/costia? I don't want to move my pearlscales but if need be I can move them to the 5 gal QT

Fawkes21 your nuggets don’t have velvet or costia based from the photos you have provided. When medicating, you don’t want to shotgun meds as you will overwhelm your fish with different treatments, and increase their stress level.

I can’t stop you from taking advice from others, but if I was in your shoes, I’d medicate for ICH and complete a full course of treatment before switching to any other ICH treatment method. I’d focus in maintaining tip top water quality to provide my fish the best environment for recovery and I would feed them nutritious food to help them get the required nutrients to keep them healthy while they fight through this.

Best of luck.

 

Fawkes21 your nuggets don’t have velvet or costia based from the photos you have provided. When medicating, you don’t want to shotgun meds as you will overwhelm your fish with different treatments, and increase their stress level.

I can’t stop you from taking advice from others, but if I was in your shoes, I’d medicate for ICH and complete a full course of treatment before switching to any other ICH treatment method. I’d focus in maintaining tip top water quality to provide my fish the best environment for recovery and I would feed them nutritious food to help them get the required nutrients to keep them healthy while they fight through this.

Best of luck.

What do you suggest to treat ich?

If that is ich on the female goldfish, that is a very unfortunate infestation, worst one I have ever seen Luckily, ich and costia treatment is similar.

 

Fawkes21 your nuggets don’t have velvet or costia based from the photos you have provided. When medicating, you don’t want to shotgun meds as you will overwhelm your fish with different treatments, and increase their stress level.

I can’t stop you from taking advice from others, but if I was in your shoes, I’d medicate for ICH and complete a full course of treatment before switching to any other ICH treatment method. I’d focus in maintaining tip top water quality to provide my fish the best environment for recovery and I would feed them nutritious food to help them get the required nutrients to keep them healthy while they fight through this.

Best of luck.

I'm currently treating for ich. It looks mostly like ich, albeit severe, with concurrent fin rot.

My moor has it as well though not as bad.



I'm slowly increasing the temp of my 90g and dosing with paraguard. Added half a dose of salt (resident pleco). I treated ich using this method last time.

Also feeding them repashy and hikari

Params on the 90g are all good

 

Here View attachment 491758

Whoa that is not a black moore goldfish, that is a telescope goldfish, but it is interesting to see that it has a different shaped tail than a moore or a regular telescope goldfish would ever have, but you should do have a great supplier of goldfish that have bold colors.

 

Whoa that is not a black moore goldfish, that is a telescope goldfish, but it is interesting to see that it has a different shaped tail than a moore or a regular telescope goldfish would ever have, but you should do have a great supplier of goldfish that have bold colors.

I've got in the bad habit of calling any telescope eye fish a moor lol

I do have a panda Moor too... At least it was sold to me as one. He has orange patches beneath the black.... So potential tricolour?

 

Not quite a panda moore in pattern, but he also has that small and short tail, but how he has that kind of tail is my little question, but he is cute and he seems like he does not have any of the velvet spots (or what ever it might be).

 

Not quite a panda moore in pattern, but he also has that small and short tail, but how he has that kind of tail is my little question, but he is cute and he seems like he does not have any of the velvet spots (or what ever it might be).

He's an interesting fish as when I first got him he had a black head and a black tail with a silver body. I loved that symmetry so that's why I got him. Now he's mostly black with white patches

 

What do you suggest to treat ich?

If that is ich on the female goldfish, that is a very unfortunate infestation, worst one I have ever seen Luckily, ich and costia treatment is similar.

I haven’t had to treat for ICH in a long time, but when I have and what I recommend as it has worked for me is Kordon Rid ICH. I’ve tried the natural methods and the heat and salt method, but I’d rather go with what has worked for me. Cautious, it will stain everything in your aquarium.

Rid Ich Plus | Kordon!

 

I haven’t had to treat for ICH in a long time, but when I have and what I recommend as it has worked for me is Kordon Rid ICH. I’ve tried the natural methods and the heat and salt method, but I’d rather go with what has worked for me. Cautious, it will stain everything in your aquarium.

Rid Ich Plus | Kordon!

Thanks, I'll look into it.

Help - Urgent! Multiple Sick Fish

My fish seem to have developed other problems. One of my males has suddenly developed red blemishes.

I made another thread.

Could be septicaemia or rash caused by ich?

 

Fawkes21 this is the same tank with the ICH right, where the goldies now have red spots ?

 

Fawkes21 this is the same tank with the ICH right, where the goldies now have red spots ?

Yes (only just saw this, sorry)

 

With Costia, after the cloudy/milky patches of skin are shedded, it leaves red spots.

 

He's an interesting fish as when I first got him he had a black head and a black tail with a silver body. I loved that symmetry so that's why I got him. Now he's mostly black with white patches

At least he kept his black and that he did not get orange.

Thanks, I'll look into it.

Help - Urgent! Multiple Sick Fish

My fish seem to have developed other problems. One of my males has suddenly developed red blemishes.

I made another thread.

Could be septicaemia or rash caused by ich?

wow, this just got worst, ad then before you know it, you would have anchor worm or something! lol

With Costia, after the cloudy/milky patches of skin are shedded, it leaves red spots.

But the fish is red on the scales not red on the skin, and fish don't have skin that get's red from costia, it is the scales that look red.

 

At least he kept his black and that he did not get orange.
wow, this just got worst, ad then before you know it, you would have anchor worm or something! lol

But the fish is red on the scales not red on the skin, and fish don't have skin that get's red from costia, it is the scales that look red.

I hope not!

Tbh I have no experience with Costia. Irritation from ich or costia could be causing the red pimples/rash I'm seeing.
It pretty much developed over night, that and the pineconing on my ranchu.

I'm medicating them with paraguard and some antibiotics so fingers crossed they hang in there

 

the red does look like what my telescope goldfish had, RII my poor goldfish.

 

the red does look like what my telescope goldfish had, RII my poor goldfish.

I'll try and get better pics tomorrow, but you know the skin condition petechiae? It looks like that.

 

But the fish is red on the scales not red on the skin, and fish don't have skin that get's red from costia, it is the scales that look red.

Sometimes fish skin is covered in scales, other times it is not and just skin. The scale composition is similar to teeth. I believe it is the skin that appears red or bloody after the skin falls off and is destroyed from the parasite ichtyobodo. Teeth don't bleed. Tissue does.

 

Here it looks bleeding beneath the scale/tissue. Not bleeding out.

Looks like small red flat pimples. My moor had it first but since she had ich, I assumed it was irritation from that.

Now most of my male fish have it.

I've noticed they're more lethargic and also darting around.

Tested water again and ammonia was at 0. 25ppm... Could be responsible?

 

Here it looks bleeding beneath the scale/tissue. Not bleeding out.

Looks like small red flat pimples. My moor had it first but since she had ich, I assumed it was irritation from that.

Now most of my male fish have it.

I've noticed they're more lethargic and also darting around.

Tested water again and ammonia was at 0. 25ppm... Could be responsible?

Yes, like bloody spots on/beneath the skin. It's a symptom of Costia (Ichthyobodo). It is often mistaken for ich (Ichthyophthirius), I suspect it has moved to both tanks You are treating both tanks with Paraguard? I think since that's what you have, it's a good plan. It is effective against Ich (Ichthyophthirius), and may help with Costia (ichthyobodo). A stronger concentration of formalin might be needed for Costia, like the one in Quick Cure.

You can also do MB baths. Actually Potassium Permanganate (PP) is even more effective against costia, but if you don't have it, MB is still effective. Baths because I can't see anywhere that you can combine MB with Formalin and Malachite Green. Salt may be combined with MB, but be cautious with salt in baths because it may drastically change TDS and pH. For 30 minute baths, maybe you can monitor to make sure your dog doesn't get into it?

Sorry, I don't think quotes are allowed, so I'll put it in my own words.
I also read the drug to treat Malaria was partly made from Meth blue. Malaria is a similar protozoan to the one that causes ich (the Ich we know; Ichthyophthirius) which is why Methylene Blue is useful for parasitic infections.

We need to take care of that ammonia level. I don't think it's the cause, but it's still detrimental to your sitch. This is your 90g? Use a 1/4 dose for volume of tank of Prime. Wait 1 hour after using Prime to add Paraguard. You can also change out water before you dose Paraguard, but again, wait 1 hour after that to dose Paraguard because you will be dechlorinating the fresh tap water. Monitor to see if filter is catching up the next day. Prime will bind the ammonia for 48 hours, at which point the bond starts to degrade and become more toxic once more. The idea is to get the filter to process it before it becomes toxic again.

Btw, plants will use ammonium before ammonia, I can't figure out why (if ammonia is transformed to ammonium with Prime) the filter can't process ammonium as efficiently as ammonia? It's an ionic bond, maybe that's what ammonium is?

If it's your 20g, I guess the same drill. We want to make sure the water stays safe, it is imperative while dealing with this. You can do it, you're doing a great job!

 

Yes, like bloody spots on/beneath the skin. It's a symptom of Costia (Ichthyobodo). It is often mistaken for ich (Ichthyophthirius), I suspect it has moved to both tanks You are treating both tanks with Paraguard? I think since that's what you have, it's a good plan. It is effective against Ich (Ichthyophthirius), and may help with Costia (ichthyobodo). A stronger concentration of formalin might be needed for Costia, like the one in Quick Cure.

You can also do MB baths. Actually Potassium Permanganate (PP) is even more effective against costia, but if you don't have it, MB is still effective. Baths because I can't see anywhere that you can combine MB with Formalin and Malachite Green. Salt may be combined with MB, but be cautious with salt in baths because it may drastically change TDS and pH. For 30 minute baths, maybe you can monitor to make sure your dog doesn't get into it?

Sorry, I don't think quotes are allowed, so I'll put it in my own words.
I also read the drug to treat Malaria was partly made from Meth blue. Malaria is a similar protozoan to the one that causes ich (the Ich we know; Ichthyophthirius) which is why Methylene Blue is useful for parasitic infections.

We need to take care of that ammonia level. I don't think it's the cause, but it's still detrimental to your sitch. This is your 90g? Use a 1/4 dose for volume of tank of Prime. Wait 1 hour after using Prime to add Paraguard. You can also change out water before you dose Paraguard, but again, wait 1 hour after that to dose Paraguard because you will be dechlorinating the fresh tap water. Monitor to see if filter is catching up the next day. Prime will bind the ammonia for 48 hours, at which point the bond starts to degrade and become more toxic once more. The idea is to get the filter to process it before it becomes toxic again.

Btw, plants will use ammonium before ammonia, I can't figure out why (if ammonia is transformed to ammonium with Prime) the filter can't process ammonium as efficiently as ammonia? It's an ionic bond, maybe that's what ammonium is?

If it's your 20g, I guess the same drill. We want to make sure the water stays safe, it is imperative while dealing with this. You can do it, you're doing a great job!

Treating all tanks with paraguard and increasing the temp.

My small pearlscales were in such bad shape I put them in the 12 litre QT tank and dosed with mblue. The ich/costia was so bad it looked like they were struggling to breathe.

Do you know if costia can cause a slight pineconing of the scales? My ranchu has the worse of it. Red rash under his chin etc and his scales are slightly raised.

Read somewhere that costia can cause that but wanted to hear your opinion. He doesn't have any of the other dropsy symptoms otherwise and it happened over night.

I put him in 20 litre QT and dosed kanaplex/furan2 because I thought it was dropsy...

Tested params again and back to 0. Added prime just in case... False reading initially?

I'll test again after uni

 

Sometimes fish skin is covered in scales, other times it is not and just skin. The scale composition is similar to teeth. I believe it is the skin that appears red or bloody after the skin falls off and is destroyed from the parasite ichtyobodo. Teeth don't bleed. Tissue does.

then why are the "teeth" red? and I think the teeth thing that you just said is for sharks, not for general fish, I think it is for sharks because there scales are very rough one way, and a bit sharp the other way.

Here it looks bleeding beneath the scale/tissue. Not bleeding out.

Looks like small red flat pimples. My moor had it first but since she had ich, I assumed it was irritation from that.

Now most of my male fish have it.

I've noticed they're more lethargic and also darting around.

Tested water again and ammonia was at 0. 25ppm... Could be responsible?

I think God is taking actions for what bad things the male have done to the females, and I think this is his punishment, LOL!

Yes, like bloody spots on/beneath the skin. It's a symptom of Costia (Ichthyobodo). It is often mistaken for ich (Ichthyophthirius), I suspect it has moved to both tanks You are treating both tanks with Paraguard? I think since that's what you have, it's a good plan. It is effective against Ich (Ichthyophthirius), and may help with Costia (ichthyobodo). A stronger concentration of formalin might be needed for Costia, like the one in Quick Cure.

You can also do MB baths. Actually Potassium Permanganate (PP) is even more effective against costia, but if you don't have it, MB is still effective. Baths because I can't see anywhere that you can combine MB with Formalin and Malachite Green. Salt may be combined with MB, but be cautious with salt in baths because it may drastically change TDS and pH. For 30 minute baths, maybe you can monitor to make sure your dog doesn't get into it?

Sorry, I don't think quotes are allowed, so I'll put it in my own words.
I also read the drug to treat Malaria was partly made from Meth blue. Malaria is a similar protozoan to the one that causes ich (the Ich we know; Ichthyophthirius) which is why Methylene Blue is useful for parasitic infections.

We need to take care of that ammonia level. I don't think it's the cause, but it's still detrimental to your sitch. This is your 90g? Use a 1/4 dose for volume of tank of Prime. Wait 1 hour after using Prime to add Paraguard. You can also change out water before you dose Paraguard, but again, wait 1 hour after that to dose Paraguard because you will be dechlorinating the fresh tap water. Monitor to see if filter is catching up the next day. Prime will bind the ammonia for 48 hours, at which point the bond starts to degrade and become more toxic once more. The idea is to get the filter to process it before it becomes toxic again.

Btw, plants will use ammonium before ammonia, I can't figure out why (if ammonia is transformed to ammonium with Prime) the filter can't process ammonium as efficiently as ammonia? It's an ionic bond, maybe that's what ammonium is?

If it's your 20g, I guess the same drill. We want to make sure the water stays safe, it is imperative while dealing with this. You can do it, you're doing a great job!

I agree with angelcraze, you should use paragaurd in your tanks for treatment, and if you are going to treat with MB, use a 5 gallon bucket, or about a twenty liter bucket.

 

then why are the "teeth" red? and I think the teeth thing that you just said is for sharks, not for general fish, I think it is for sharks because there scales are very rough one way, and a bit sharp the other way.
I think God is taking actions for what bad things the male have done to the females, and I think this is his punishment, LOL!
I agree with angelcraze, you should use paragaurd in your tanks for treatment, and if you are going to treat with MB, use a 5 gallon bucket, or about a twenty liter bucket.

Haha

Must be karma!

But hopefully not for long. I think they've atoned....

 

then why are the "teeth" red? and I think the teeth thing that you just said is for sharks, not for general fish, I think it is for sharks because there scales are very rough one way, and a bit sharp

I meant scales may be similar to teeth in what they are made of. I'm having trouble wording this Scales are hard like enamel. There's no blood in scales, only where they are attached which is tissue aka skin.

Fawkes are you dosing Paraguard in the 20 gallon with MB?

I haven't read that dropsy is a symptom of Costia, but secondary infections are. Is it just paraguard in his tank?

 

I meant scales may be similar to teeth in what they are made of. I'm having trouble wording this Scales are hard like enamel. There's no blood in scales, only where they are attached which is tissue aka skin.

Fawkes are you dosing Paraguard in the 20 gallon with MB?

I haven't read that dropsy is a symptom of Costia, but secondary infections are. Is it just paraguard in his tank?

Only dosing paraguard in the 20 gallon for now. Just added a dose so I'll wait before dosing any mblue

Read on 2 sources that costia can a cause a raising of the scales though not much info out there

Realised my posts are all over the place so here is summary of the tanks/meds used in them

90g
X8 fancy
Paraguard, increasing temp
Gave all mblue bath, apart from pleco. Too hard to catch though I will try
Costia symptoms, mild fin fraying, lethargy
Perked up after mblue

20g
1 oranda
Ich, fin rot, lethargy, costia? (added pic)
Dosing paraguard, increasing temp when my heater arrives
Too weak to give mblue baths just now

12 litre
X3 small pearlscales/fantail
Severe ich, fin rot
Mblue only
2/3 perked up, one still weak (added pic too) throat and mouth stained blue, guessing where infestation is severe

20litre

One ranchu
Kanaplex, furan 2 and paraguard
Costia rash, pineconing
Will increase temp when heater arrives


Current plan of action continue the mblue baths for the males, increase the temp of all tanks, dose with paraguard.

Stupid q, but does heat affect mblue? Like could I dose the mblue in the 20 gallon and also use the heat to get rid of the ich etc


Thanks for all your advice

 

Only dosing paraguard in the 20 gallon for now. Just added a dose so I'll wait before dosing any mblue

Read on 2 sources that costia can a cause a raising of the scales though not much info out there

Realised my posts are all over the place so here is summary of the tanks/meds used in them

90g
X8 fancy
Paraguard, increasing temp
Gave all mblue bath, apart from pleco. Too hard to catch though I will try
Costia symptoms, mild fin fraying, lethargy
Perked up after mblue

20g
1 oranda
Ich, fin rot, lethargy, costia? (added pic)
Dosing paraguard, increasing temp when my heater arrives
Too weak to give mblue baths just now

12 litre
X3 small pearlscales/fantail
Severe ich, fin rot
Mblue only
2/3 perked up, one still weak (added pic too) throat and mouth stained blue, guessing where infestation is severe

20litre

One ranchu
Kanaplex, furan 2 and paraguard
Costia rash, pineconing
Will increase temp when heater arrives


Current plan of action continue the mblue baths for the males, increase the temp of all tanks, dose with paraguard.

Stupid q, but does heat affect mblue? Like could I dose the mblue in the 20 gallon and also use the heat to get rid of the ich etc


Thanks for all your advice View attachment 492261View attachment 492262

what kind of pleco is it? Depending on the pleco sometimes it will come out when you feed it some food in the front of the tank in the open.

 

what kind of pleco is it? Depending on the pleco sometimes it will come out when you feed it some food in the front of the tank in the open.

He's pretty lethargic rn. At the bottom of my tank. My tank is deep though so he's very hard to net but I'll try

 

He's pretty lethargic rn. At the bottom of my tank. My tank is deep though so he's very hard to net but I'll try

what species is he?

 

what species is he?

Bristle nose pleco

 

A BN pleco, try taking out all the driftwood and put it in a bucket, along with all of the decor in the tank, then you put a small piece of driftwood in the tank on just on side of the tank, then put a barrier down the middle of the tank, like a section of egg crate or giant net, the side that the pleco is on, is the side with the driftwood, and then all you have to do is gently lift up the drift wood once he is under neath it, and then you can put a net beneath the driftwood, and so then as you pull out the drift wood from in the tank, he gets off of the drift wood and int the net. or you could divide the tank with the egg crate or the giant net, and then you could try to catch him with out any decor for him to hide under.

 

You can add Paragurad to the 90g. But also try your very best to stay on top of the cycle. You want the ammonia to be processed by today. .025ppm is not that much, protected by Prime, but you don't want it to climb. Water changes if it gets higher. Paraguard is dosed every 24 hours. Wait 1 hour after the water change to dose Paraguard.

I don't think mixing malachite green and meth blue is a good idea. Paragard is a more gentle formalin and malachite green. It's much better to dose tanks with Paraguard and do meth blue baths.

For the one that is pineconing, meth blue and epsom salt baths. For the others, meth blue and sodium chloride (kosher salt nacl). Sodium chloride prevents fluids from leaving the fish, magnesium sulfate (Epsom Salts) help the fish to release fluids. Sodium chloride helps deal with ichthyobodo along with MB, but formalin (ingredient in paraguard) is the first choice for Costia treatment.

The MB baths are beneficial even for your oranda. It boots the immune, promotes healing, makes it easier for the fish to breathe.

Can you get a bin (plastic container, not sure what you call Rubbermaids) to do MB baths in?

Oh and you are correct, MB will show you exactly where the problems are. Not sure at this time if heat affects MB. I don't think it would since MB helps the fish to uptake oxygen, but not entirely sure.

I know it's so much work for you, my heart goes out to you.
I hope what I wrote is clear enough.

 

You can add Paragurad to the 90g. But also try your very best to stay on top of the cycle. You want the ammonia to be processed by today. .025ppm is not that much, protected by Prime, but you don't want it to climb. Water changes if it gets higher. Paraguard is dosed every 24 hours. Wait 1 hour after the water change to dose Paraguard.

I don't think mixing malachite green and meth blue is a good idea. Paragard is a more gentle formalin and malachite green. It's much better to dose tanks with Paraguard and do meth blue baths.

For the one that is pineconing, meth blue and epsom salt baths. For the others, meth blue and sodium chloride (kosher salt nacl). Sodium chloride prevents fluids from leaving the fish, magnesium sulfate (Epsom Salts) help the fish to release fluids. Sodium chloride helps deal with ichthyobodo along with MB, but formalin (ingredient in paraguard) is the first choice for Costia treatment.

The MB baths are beneficial even for your oranda. It boots the immune, promotes healing, makes it easier for the fish to breathe.

Can you get a bin (plastic container, not sure what you call Rubbermaids) to do MB baths in?

Oh and you are correct, MB will show you exactly where the problems are. Not sure at this time if heat affects MB. I don't think it would since MB helps the fish to uptake oxygen, but not entirely sure.

I know it's so much work for you, my heart goes out to you.
I hope what I wrote is clear enough.

I tested my 90g again. Ammonia is 0ppm.

I think the the spike I saw might have been caused by me having to turn my big eheim filter off to prime it again. Took me while to get it started again.

I have a 10 litre bucket that I use for baths. I use cycled water from my 90g, add an air stone, conditioner, let it sit then give fish their baths. I can get a bigger plastic bin online if need be

I have been considering mblue for the big oranda. He was touch and go for a bit so thought the baths, moving in and out might be a bit stressful but I will definitely consider them as he gains his strength back

That was clear, thanks!

 

The spike is fake! that is good news right?

 

A BN pleco, try taking out all the driftwood and put it in a bucket, along with all of the decor in the tank, then you put a small piece of driftwood in the tank on just on side of the tank, then put a barrier down the middle of the tank, like a section of egg crate or giant net, the side that the pleco is on, is the side with the driftwood, and then all you have to do is gently lift up the drift wood once he is under neath it, and then you can put a net beneath the driftwood, and so then as you pull out the drift wood from in the tank, he gets off of the drift wood and int the net. or you could divide the tank with the egg crate or the giant net, and then you could try to catch him with out any decor for him to hide under.

He's in the sectioned of part of the tank so easier to fish out. I'll see if I can give him an mblue bath

 

The spike is fake! that is good news right?

It should be. Last thing I need is a minI cycle!

 

I tested my 90g again. Ammonia is 0ppm.

I think the the spike I saw might have been caused by me having to turn my big eheim filter off to prime it again. Took me while to get it started again.

I have a 10 litre bucket that I use for baths. I use cycled water from my 90g, add an air stone, conditioner, let it sit then give fish their baths. I can get a bigger plastic bin online if need be

I have been considering mblue for the big oranda. He was touch and go for a bit so thought the baths, moving in and out might be a bit stressful but I will definitely consider them as he gains his strength back

That was clear, thanks!

Oh great news! I like your plans
I do think it's all Costia and secondary infections afflicting your tanks, so Paraguard is your best med treatment for fish that are not too weak FYI.