Septicaemia Orandas?

OK so I've been having real problems with my 2 orandas. One has bad swim bladder and the other one has blood red fins that weren't there before?

The one with swim bladder I put in my 20 gallon to see if I could treat his swim bladder and moved my smallest oranda to keep him company.

My male fish were also harassing one of Moors so I added her to my 20 gallon to give her a break. Now all 3 fish are acting funny! The small oranda has bloody fins, the big oranda has more visible veins on his tail and the Moor is very lethargic.

Have 2 eheim filters with 300l filtration capacity. Had a minor ammonia spike but I treated that with wc and prime and things are back to normal.

They're temporarily in a 20 gallon until I get a bigger tank.

What disease am I dealing with?
Do I need to sterilise my 20g?

@@Gypsy13 and @@Goldiemom

Meds I have on hand are furan-2, Metroplex, kanaplex

 

I don't see any disease, but are you feeding veggies? Pre-soak goldfish food? Small meals ?

 

I don't see any disease, but are you feeding veggies? Pre-soak goldfish food? Small meals ?

Yes. Feed repashy, hikari, brine shrimp and zucchini. The red streaking on the fin happened over night that's what I'm worried about. My other oranda also displaying tail fraying and red streaking.

Ps are ammonia 0, nitrite 0 and nitrates 5.

I'll see if I can get a better pic

 

Its hard to suggest any antibiotic since your in the UK and they are banned.
I usually use Oxytetracycline flake/ pellets. 2-3 times a day for 7-10 days. It clear up just about everything.
This could be a virus?

 

Its hard to suggest any antibiotic since your in the UK and they are banned.
I usually use Oxytetracycline flake/ pellets. 2-3 times a day for 7-10 days. It clear up just about everything.
This could be a virus?

I managed to obtain some kanaplex, Metroplex and furan-2 from the states wo problems. Kanamcyn, metrodinazole and nitrofurazone I think are the active ingredients in each.

I have some focus as well to bind the medication to food.

Where could I obtain some oxy... In the UK?

 

The kanamycin will work. Usually caused by aeromonas bacteria.

Oxytetracycline is just cheaper and more broad spectrum, its oldschool.
Kanamycin can sometimes be hit or miss. But kanamycin is usually good.

 

The kanamycin will work. Usually caused by aeromonas bacteria.

Oxytetracycline is just cheaper and more broad spectrum, its oldschool.
Kanamycin can sometimes be hit or miss. But kanamycin is usually good.

That's what I'm hoping! Didn't know such symptoms could develop so quickly, especially since my ps have been fairly stable

 

I would treat with paragaurd if it is possible for you to get a hold of some, paragaurd is gentel and great with scaleless fish and it treats a variety of things, so it should help what ever you got on your goldfish. Fawkes21 you did not correctly tag some people, so I will do it for you, Gypsy13 and Goldiemom please help Fawkes21 .

 

I hate to treat without knowing but I have luck with a combination of Kanaplex and Furan-2. The only thing I can see is the red fin. Is it bloody looking or pigmentation? Hard for me to tell.

 

I would treat with paragaurd if it is possible for you to get a hold of some, paragaurd is gentel and great with scaleless fish and it treats a variety of things, so it should help what ever you got on your goldfish. Fawkes21 you did not correctly tag some people, so I will do it for you, Gypsy13 and Goldiemom please help Fawkes21 .

Thanks! How do you properly tag people?

I don't have some on me but I can order some

I hate to treat without knowing but I have luck with a combination of Kanaplex and Furan-2. The only thing I can see is the red fin. Is it bloody looking or pigmentation? Hard for me to tell.

Bloody looking. Her fine used to be clear white with some black and orange.

She's still eating and active, only her fin is blood streaked and she has a red spot on her body above her fin.

Looks like petechiae if that makes sense?

My black oranda also has streaking in his tail veins and fin rot at the end.

This pretty much developed over night.



Added pic of what her fin looked like before

Is this septicemia?

I don't have any sharp objects in that tank so not sure if it's an injury. The fin isn't torn either, just blood streaked.

 

Thanks! How do you properly tag people?

I don't have some on me but I can order some

to tag someone, all you have to do is to put an at sign in front of the name of the person you want to ta and they get taggged. EX: cichlid4life I just tagged myself.

 

to tag someone, all you have to do is to put an at sign in front of the name of the person you want to ta and they get taggged. EX: cichlid4life I just tagged myself.

Thanks

 

I would say ammonia or nitrite poisoning but your parameters are all good. I have never had septicemia in my tanks and know very little about it. Sadly, if it is septicemia, it is almost always fatal. Let’s hope that it’s something else. Gypsy13, can you please help? One fin is completely red with blood. (I’ll text Gypsy and ask her to take a look.). Good luck!

 

I would say ammonia or nitrite poisoning but your parameters are all good. I have never had septicemia in my tanks and know very little about it. Sadly, if it is septicemia, it is almost always fatal. Let’s hope that it’s something else. Gypsy13, can you please help? One fin is completely red with blood. (I’ll text Gypsy and ask her to take a look.). Good luck!

That's what I'm hoping. I don't have any experience with it either.

Just to give more background, my male goldfish were harassing one of my female moors agaI so Saturday I moved her from the 90g to the 20 gallon to giver her a break over the weekend. They had already harassed her last week to the extent that her scales were pineconed, one eye was puffy and cloudy and her tail fins had basically melted and she was very lethargic. She recovered but I did almost lose her.

I do have 2 seeded filters that are suited for 200l and 160l in the 20 gallon respectively so I thought 3 fish in a 20 gallon would be ok for the weekend. Everything was ok until the moor started bottom sitting on Sunday followed by the small oranda. Put it down to stress but tested the water anyway. 0.5-1 ppm ammonia and nitrite (don't remember figure exactly. It wasn't 0, but it wasn't at the high ranges either). Did immediate water change, dosed prime etc.

Did another wc on Monday, left for unI and came back to see the bloody fin.


The oranda with the bloody fin is pooing long white stringy feces but apart from that is acting normal. Still eating, swimming normally. No longer lethargic. The red above her fin on her body looks like clusters of blood spots. Her fin 'joint' is also completely bloody. Hasn't spread.

The black oranda has mild fin rot on his tail and white spots on his fin...ich from stress of being moved to the QT tank? His tail veins are more red than unusual but not streaking. One side of his tail fin is curled slightly which is new. He's still eating and swimming, poo is normal. He's head-standing a bit but he's had boyuancy problems since I got him 3 weeks ago.

The moor has no obvious external symptoms apart from being lethargic but she still eats and swims.

Forgot to add, if it is ammonia/nitrite poisoning, what's the best way to treat it? Mblue?

 

in my experience, older telescope gold fish and moore goldfish are not that energetic compared to other goldfish their age (I think it is from the weight of the eyes) and they don't always like to be around energetic goldfish.

 

in my experience, older telescope gold fish and moore goldfish are not that energetic compared to other goldfish their age (I think it is from the weight of the eyes) and they don't always like to be around energetic goldfish.

True, mine usually hang in my driftwood 'jungle'. She started hiding behind the filters in the 20 gallon which I thought was unusual and only moving to get food, not scavenging

OK so update. The fish are doing OK. The bloody fin/spot of my Oranda seems to have receded a bit. Her more natural colouring is coming through.

The not so good news is that while I was unI my male fish pinned up my female fantail up against my driftwood. Her fins are all ragged and bloody and she's a bit stunned. Is the red streaking from stress or do I need to medicate?

 

That's what I'm hoping. I don't have any experience with it either.

Just to give more background, my male goldfish were harassing one of my female moors agaI so Saturday I moved her from the 90g to the 20 gallon to giver her a break over the weekend. They had already harassed her last week to the extent that her scales were pineconed, one eye was puffy and cloudy and her tail fins had basically melted and she was very lethargic. She recovered but I did almost lose her.

I do have 2 seeded filters that are suited for 200l and 160l in the 20 gallon respectively so I thought 3 fish in a 20 gallon would be ok for the weekend. Everything was ok until the moor started bottom sitting on Sunday followed by the small oranda. Put it down to stress but tested the water anyway. 0.5-1 ppm ammonia and nitrite (don't remember figure exactly. It wasn't 0, but it wasn't at the high ranges either). Did immediate water change, dosed prime etc.

Did another wc on Monday, left for unI and came back to see the bloody fin.


The oranda with the bloody fin is pooing long white stringy feces but apart from that is acting normal. Still eating, swimming normally. No longer lethargic. The red above her fin on her body looks like clusters of blood spots. Her fin 'joint' is also completely bloody. Hasn't spread.

The black oranda has mild fin rot on his tail and white spots on his fin...ich from stress of being moved to the QT tank? His tail veins are more red than unusual but not streaking. One side of his tail fin is curled slightly which is new. He's still eating and swimming, poo is normal. He's head-standing a bit but he's had boyuancy problems since I got him 3 weeks ago.

The moor has no obvious external symptoms apart from being lethargic but she still eats and swims.

Forgot to add, if it is ammonia/nitrite poisoning, what's the best way to treat it? Mblue?

Yes, methylene blue.

 

maybe the male is a bully that is causing all of this to your gold fish, and that you may not have an infected tank, I would leave everyone in the main tank, and put the male in a QT because it might be caused by the big bully. What species is your male, and can we have a picture of the male ( if you can get a picture of him being aggressive to a female that would be interesting to see, but I just want to see what the male is as far as his species) that is being a big bully?

 

Are the water changes on the 20 keeping up with the nitrates from the 2 goldfish? From your other, previous post: The white string poo, swim bladder problem were suspected to be an internal infection. If it advances then yes it would become septicemia. As the bacteria broke from the digestive tract and entered the bloodstream it would be septicemia. Then if the organs started failing we might see the syndrom known as dropsey. I still support your antibiotic food. As the white poop and red fin streaks are subsiding, I hope you headed it off with the medicated repashy. Make sure the medicated food is the only food using during treatment. And top top water quality.

 

maybe the male is a bully that is causing all of this to your gold fish, and that you may not have an infected tank, I would leave everyone in the main tank, and put the male in a QT because it might be caused by the big bully. What species is your male, and can we have a picture of the male ( if you can get a picture of him being aggressive to a female that would be interesting to see, but I just want to see what the male is as far as his species) that is being a big bully?

I have a couple of males. For sure the most boisterous ones are the ryukin and the fantail. I've never seen any of them be aggressive per se, but when they try get to females to spawn they don't stop chasing them and usually pin them down against my driftwood, causing massive stress and trauma to the females.

This harassment has only started this week. They were fine all summer and would sleep and school together

Didn't manage to get a pic of the males being aggressive but I do have pics of the females that they have harassed

4th pic shows the 'tiger'ryukin that is probably the most boisterous but nearly all my males tend to harass the females.

Ive moved the harassed females to the 20 gallon that houses my male ThaI oranda but he shows no interest in them and has boyuancy issues so couldn't harass them if he tried.

Ofc this is short term until I come up with a solution

 

So we have found the problem, correct the problem. The problem with forums like these is that everyone rushes in to diagnoise the problem, and present the medication you need to rush out and buy. I was like that at first when I started helping people......
Goldiemom is correct, your goldfish have ammo/nitrite poisioning. The solution would be to use PRIME as your water conditioner, and get the fish into another tank until its cycled/
If not, adding prime every 48 hours (double or triple dose it) can detoxify ammo/nitrite

Methylene blue, in a bath (get a goldfish bowl and M blue should be cheap) can help fish with nitrite poisioning (brown blood disease)

I really hope you pay attention to what ive told you. You don't need to dump meds (kanamycin can kill bio filter bacteria, BB, as they are gram negative, just like many fish diseases that cause tail rot or septicima.)

If you dump kanamycin into a tank while its still cycling, your gonna crash the cycle and kill what bacteria have grown.
Use prime in the main tank every 24-48 hours, and give the sick fish M blue baths daily.
Grab them with your hands, Its less harmful than a net.
If you take the fish out and put them in a separate container with M blue and an airstone and give extended baths and daily PWC, you can finish the tanks cycle.

Those are some really nice fish, I didnt read the other posts, but you gotta watch water parameters and not worry about meds so much. Treat the Cause > Symptoms and most fish can recover.
Nature works this way too.

 

Are the water changes on the 20 keeping up with the nitrates from the 2 goldfish? From your other, previous post: The white string poo, swim bladder problem were suspected to be an internal infection. If it advances then yes it would become septicemia. As the bacteria broke from the digestive tract and entered the bloodstream it would be septicemia. Then if the organs started failing we might see the syndrom known as dropsey. I still support your antibiotic food. As the white poop and red fin streaks are subsiding, I hope you headed it off with the medicated repashy. Make sure the medicated food is the only food using during treatment. And top top water quality.

Nitrates for the 20 gallon were never higher than 20ppm when I measured them. Currently doing wc every day/every 2 days.

The red streaks have subsided in all of the fish as has the white stringy poo.

My black fish still has boyuancy problems. He head stands, rights himself and then swims off. That's why I set up the 20 gallon as he was out competed by my other fish in the 90g. He was like this when I got him so whilst I'm not ruling out bacterial causes, it could be congenital?

Still feeding the medicated repashy and hikari.

So we have found the problem, correct the problem. The problem with forums like these is that everyone rushes in to diagnoise the problem, and present the medication you need to rush out and buy. I was like that at first when I started helping people......
Goldiemom is correct, your goldfish have ammo/nitrite poisioning. The solution would be to use PRIME as your water conditioner, and get the fish into another tank until its cycled/
If not, adding prime every 48 hours (double or triple dose it) can detoxify ammo/nitrite

Methylene blue, in a bath (get a goldfish bowl and M blue should be cheap) can help fish with nitrite poisioning (brown blood disease)

I really hope you pay attention to what ive told you. You don't need to dump meds (kanamycin can kill bio filter bacteria, BB, as they are gram negative, just like many fish diseases that cause tail rot or septicima.)

If you dump kanamycin into a tank while its still cycling, your gonna crash the cycle and kill what bacteria have grown.
Use prime in the main tank every 24-48 hours, and give the sick fish M blue baths daily.
Grab them with your hands, Its less harmful than a net.
If you take the fish out and put them in a separate container with M blue and an airstone and give extended baths and daily PWC, you can finish the tanks cycle.

Thanks for the advice

The tank is/was cycled using filter media from my 90g.

I think what happened is one the meds I was using killed off some of the bb from the filters plus adding the harassed female fish-->ammonia spike and all the symptoms I was seeing .

Seachem should not say that their plex products don't harm bb as they obviously did, and they were seeded filters from an established tank.

Added new sedddd filter media to the filters, dosing prime and and wc everyday.

My main problem now is I have 4 fish in the 20g, 3 females my males in the 90g won't stop harassing literally half to death.

It's autumn and my tank temp is 20c yet my fish think it's breeding season? All the males behaving this way. Will they stop or do I need to set up a ladies only aquarium?

 

Hello. Sorry I’m late but glad to hear the red streaks are gone. And yes it’s the season for male harassment. My pond is a thrashing mess of girls trying to get away. Separating the girls from boys will stop the harassment. Then you get to deal with girls getting possibly egg bound. Not an easy fix.
As far as meds go, I’ve had to use kanaplex on several occasions and have never had it crash my cycle. Ever. Just my two cents.
It sounds like the one is going to have buoyancy problems no matter what.
Keep an eye on the fins of these guys. I’m not able to fishlore as much as I’d like. But I’ll check in on this thread as often as I can. Keep updating ok?

 

Oh no! Probably best to separate and make sure he gets enough to eat. Maybe in the your main you could add some plants like elodea and salvinia that he could eat if he is a bit out competed for food?

elodea is the Brazilian water weed, and as it is called, it is a weed. I don't have any LFS that have those plants except for one, which (of course) has bladder and cone snails.

 

Hello. Sorry I’m late but glad to hear the red streaks are gone. And yes it’s the season for male harassment. My pond is a thrashing mess of girls trying to get away. Separating the girls from boys will stop the harassment. Then you get to deal with girls getting possibly egg bound. Not an easy fix.
As far as meds go, I’ve had to use kanaplex on several occasions and have never had it crash my cycle. Ever. Just my two cents.
It sounds like the one is going to have buoyancy problems no matter what.
Keep an eye on the fins of these guys. I’m not able to fishlore as much as I’d like. But I’ll check in on this thread as often as I can. Keep updating ok?

Yes I've used kanaplex in the past with no problems but something affected the cycle of my filters for sure. Not sure what.

Fins are starting to get back to normal.

Ive had to separate the females from the males as they got too aggressive and nearly killed three of them. Scales scraped off, pop eye, fins melting, pine coning, split fins, damaged gill covers, the lot! All from the harassment.

Red streaking/blotching is from ammonia spikes in the 20 gallon I think. It's overstocked with my 5 poor ladies and Forrest. Moved my eheim filter canister to the 20g. I now have 900l filtration for that tank so hopefully it'll keep the parameters in check until I can think of a solution.

Do you think a tank divider would work or would the males find a way to get through it?

How long will the harassment last?

Also are the boyuancy problems of my Oranda some physiological thing? Peas Epsom, and medicated food hasn't done anything for it?

Thanks for your advice, great to hear from you!

elodea is the Brazilian water weed, and as it is called, it is a weed. I don't have any LFS that have those plants except for one, which (of course) has bladder and cone snails.

Shame. Maybe get an assassin snail to keep any snails in check if you do buy plants?

I've also had some luck ordering plants from ebay.

 

Yes I've used kanaplex in the past with no problems but something affected the cycle of my filters for sure. Not sure what.

Fins are starting to get back to normal.

Ive had to separate the females from the males as they got too aggressive and nearly killed three of them. Scales scraped off, pop eye, fins melting, pine coning, split fins, damaged gill covers, the lot! All from the harassment.

Red streaking/blotching is from ammonia spikes in the 20 gallon I think. It's overstocked with my 5 poor ladies and Forrest. Moved my eheim filter canister to the 20g. I now have 900l filtration for that tank so hopefully it'll keep the parameters in check until I can think of a solution.

Do you think a tank divider would work or would the males find a way to get through it?

How long will the harassment last?

Also are the boyuancy problems of my Oranda some physiological thing? Peas Epsom, and medicated food hasn't done anything for it?

Thanks for your advice, great to hear from you!

My goldies will stop spawning towards the end of November. Then start back up again in February or early March. A divider would probably work for fancies. A good one with no gaps top, bottom or sides. I don’t like dividers. Sometimes necessary but just ugly.
And I do think it’s a physiological thing. You’ve tried everything with this finbaby. It sometimes gets better with age. Sometimes not. Only time will tell.
I understand about the ammonia spikes. I had one in my pond when the pump quit without asking. Goldies were all fine though. Just hungry.

 

I ordered some plastic pond grids..Hopefully I'll be able to fashion some sort of divider. Only thing I could find big enough for my tank. Pretty ugly but will have to do for now!

 

I ordered some plastic pond grids..Hopefully I'll be able to fashion some sort of divider. Only thing I could find big enough for my tank. Pretty ugly but will have to do for now!

Is it just one overly aggressive male?

 

Is it just one overly aggressive male?

It's pretty much all of them ganging up against one female at a time. My ryukin is probably the worse of them but too boisterous for the 20g.

No more blood worms til they learn to behave lol

It's pretty much all of them ganging up against one female at a time. My ryukin is probably the worse of them but too boisterous for the 20g.

No more blood worms til they learn to behave lol

Is it just one overly aggressive male?

It's pretty much all of them ganging up against one female at a time. My ryukin is probably the worse of them but too boisterous for the 20g.

No more blood worms til they learn to behave lol


Forgot to add one of my harassed fish had quite a few scales scraped off and her eye is super swollen like pop eye with a bubbles like film covering her eye. Will the scales grow back normally and her eye get back to normal?


Also my Oranda with the swim bladder is starting belly flip a bit. Any ideas on how to help him? He still manages to right himself though

 

For the banged up one you can give salt baths or methylene blue baths to aid healing and keep bacteria/fungus from setting in.
The less than buoyant one you may want to feed him more veggies than protein. Keep pressure off of his swim bladder.

 

For the banged up one you can give salt baths or methylene blue baths to aid healing and keep bacteria/fungus from setting in.
The less than buoyant one you may want to feed him more veggies than protein. Keep pressure off of his swim bladder.

OK I gave her a mblue bath along with the other injured ones. Hopefully it'll alleviate some of the ammonia poisoning symptoms. They seem to have perked up.

Was wondering if the increased in boyuancy problems in my Oranda could be due to the stress of the ammonia spikes/poisoning? I have 0.25 ppm ammonia and nitrites and am dosing prime.

He still has pretty visible red veins in his fins and fin rot though he's still eating and active.


Tank divider coming on Monday. I'll move the ladies back then and hopefully my params will get back to normal.

Do you think he'll be OK til then?

 

Keep doing the mblue. I thought the redness had gone? How bad is it?

 

It's gone in the small oranda that had the really bloody fin and red blotch on her body that made me think it was septicaemia.

The tail looks a bit inflamed if that makes sense. As if someone has traced the tail/fin rays with a thin red marker. Makes his white tail look like it has a pinkish hue.

Tail also looks frayed, exposing the end of the rays.

Best way to describe it all.

I have a 20 litre QT tank that I could move him too if need be.


I added a pic too.


Thanks for your help

 

Just my opinion based off research and experience, but symptoms like pineconing, popeye, red streaked fins and damaged gill covers generally aren’t the result of bullying.

 

Just my opinion based off research and experience, but symptoms like pineconing, popeye, red streaked fins and damaged gill covers generally aren’t the result of bullying.

Not bullying but super aggressive males during spawning. Whenever I was away at unI my 6 males would gang up on one my female, usually trapping her against the walls of my tank etc causing pretty bad injuries. Tried to distract them with food but it didn't work

 

Sorry you are dealing with all these problems. You've gotten good advice so far.

Meth blue baths for the beaten up females. Also for your red streaked male. If it's septicemia, you can't really 'cure' it, but it can go into 'remission' provided you keep water conditions and params up and feed nutritious foods. I've seen goldfish in restaurant tanks (as an ex) with goldfish showing signs of septicemia that live for years. I also haven't seen that it is contagious, but poor water conditions (like accidental ammonia spikes) would cause it, and any fish in the tank could be affected. His analfins look pink as well. Is this the bloated fish? How did you treat this fish with Epsom Salts?

Are the water conditions in all the tanks safe now?

 

Aggression = bullying.

My point is that pineconing, blood streaked fins and such are symptoms of illness, whether viral, bacterial or just the result of poor water quality. Fish don’t pinecone from being beat up, and the streaks in the fins indicate septicemia, which isn’t a disease so much as the end result of an untreated condition. It may be that the constant stress of being bullied has weakened her immune system and left her susceptible to disease, or caused her to feel the effects of subpar conditions more so than the others, but regardless of anything, there is something more going on here than simple aggression.

 

Shame. Maybe get an assassin snail to keep any snails in check if you do buy plants?

I've also had some luck ordering plants from ebay.

no assasins, they are going to kill my big mystery snail in the goldfish tank.

It's gone in the small oranda that had the really bloody fin and red blotch on her body that made me think it was septicaemia.

The tail looks a bit inflamed if that makes sense. As if someone has traced the tail/fin rays with a thin red marker. Makes his white tail look like it has a pinkish hue.

Tail also looks frayed, exposing the end of the rays.

Best way to describe it all.

I have a 20 litre QT tank that I could move him too if need be.


I added a pic too.


Thanks for your help View attachment 489665

nice to know that things are getting better, and it is a pleasure to help other people's fish when they are in trouble.

 

Yes, I think being harassed caused some of the females to become weak and susceptible to various diseases. The rapidity of the onset has been surprising though.

In every case the disease symptoms happened over a couple of hours immediately after being harrased, usually during the couple hours I was at unI and unable to separate the fish.

Fish had presented no symptoms before that. I always inspect them during their morning feed. I would 100pc have noticed any of those symptoms like the pop eye or the pine coning

Like I went to unI on Thursday, was away for 3 hours and when I came back they had pinned a fantail against a driftwood. When I removed her she had split fins, chunks falling off, Red streaks in the fins etc. Had 2 others developed pop eye and bilateral pine coning of the scales basically within a couple of hours of being harassed.

Usually my 6 male fish gang up against one female fish and pin her in a corner which I think is causing most of the injuries.

Apart from the aggression from my males I don't know what could be causing all the injuries/incidences of disease? I have 2 filters on my 92g suited for 1000 gal tank, they filter about 1,600 litres per hour. Nitrites and ammonia have been consistently 0, nitrates around 10. Test them every week. Temp 20c. 30pc wc every week.

I poke my sand whenever I do a wc so I know it's not a hydrogen sulfide causing these problems.



Just to clarify, the tricolour oranda in the pic has been by himself in a separate 20 gallon and has not been bullied. I put him in there because when I bought him he had boyuancy issues and was being out competed by my other fish in the 90.

I think the red streaking is a result of an ammonia spike caused my having to move the females from my 90g to the 20g.

Felt I didn't have choice to move them because they really were in an appalling shape. Barely moving or breathing though they are lot better now. I would remove one female and the males would go after another. Didn't think to film them at the time sadly

The params for the 20 gallon had been fine up until I added the injured females over the course of this week. Ammonia and nitrites never went beyond 1ppm.

I saw that 1 ppm spike and have been doing water changes every day so the params went back to 0/0. 25ppm for the ammonia/nitrites but I think that still was enough to induce red streaking in the trI oranda, even with the 3 large eheim filters I had running.

Sorry you are dealing with all these problems. You've gotten good advice so far.

Meth blue baths for the beaten up females. Also for your red streaked male. If it's septicemia, you can't really 'cure' it, but it can go into 'remission' provided you keep water conditions and params up and feed nutritious foods. I've seen goldfish in restaurant tanks (as an ex) with goldfish showing signs of septicemia that live for years. I also haven't seen that it is contagious, but poor water conditions (like accidental ammonia spikes) would cause it, and any fish in the tank could be affected. His analfins look pink as well. Is this the bloated fish? How did you treat this fish with Epsom Salts?

Are the water conditions in all the tanks safe now?

Thanks, has been a total nightmare to deal with


Yea his analfins are pink and clamped with fraying at the ends. He's belly flipping more, looks like a turtle trying to right himself. Hes fine when he swims but starts head standing and losing balance when he stops. He still scavenges and eats so I'm hoping that's a good sign.


gave him an mblue bath earlier today along with the worst of the injured females.

I think right now I'm going ascribe the red streaks to mild ammonia poisoning. Not displaying any septicaemia symptoms but he's on a medicated food anyway. Really hoping it's not septicemia....


I got the fish off a respected ebay seller, saw he had swim bladder problems. Put it down to stress/transport so treated it with Epsom and peas. No improvement, still head standing though he always rights himself.

Then fed him medicated food w Metroplex and kanaplex but that hasn't made a difference.

He's belly flipping more now but I think that might be due to the stress of having all the females in the tank plus the ammonia spike.

He did also get trapped in a fake plant I had and scraped some scales off. Treating that with mblue and paraguard.

Current plan of action is wc on the 20g, divide the 90g move the females back and continue doing wc on the 2og until he (hopefully) recovers.

Params in 90g are 0 nitrites and ammonia, Params in the 20 gallon are between 0 and 0.25ppm for nitrites and ammonia.

no assasins, they are going to kill my big mystery snail in the goldfish tank.

I can't even find my assassin snail.... Just the shells of the bladder snails he eats
His name is Edward Kenway after assassins creed...

nice to know that things are getting better, and it is a pleasure to help other people's fish when they are in trouble.

They seem to be slowly....

Really only my black oranda worrying me. His swim bladder has got worse because all the chaos of moving the injured females to his tank and causing an ammonia spike

 

They seem to be slowly....

Really only my black oranda worrying me. His swim bladder has got worse because all the chaos of moving the injured females to his tank and causing an ammonia spike

oh no, that is not good.