Seachem Stabilty Help!

Hi,in about 3 days I'm getting my 39 gallon aquarium.I am totally new to setting up my aqaurium.I have decided to use Seachem Stability to cycle the tank with a fish in cycle.My Stock is

-12 Cherry barbs
-2 Pearl Gourami
-6 SterbaI cories
-1 Blue ram

Can someone walk me through Seachem Stability?I know absolutely nothing about cycling or these products.I know that I should add Stability daily for a week.I'm planning on doing a fish in cycle.Any products I need to add in the cycling period?And when should I do water changes?Sorry for all the questions...Thanks

 

You need prime. I'm not sure your stocking will work out. Do you have a test kit for ph, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates?

I would test your tap water for all 4 of these to get a baseline. Then add prime to dechlorinate the water as you fill the tank. If the tank already has water just add it to your tank and give it an hour to do its thing. We usually prime the tank before adding water back in or prime the bucket we are using to transfer water from sink to tank.

What filter and heater are you using?

 

I haven't bought anything yet.I saved up money until I knew I had enough to get everything,since the store I'm getting my tank from is far.This Tuesday i'm going to the store to buy the following

-My aquarium
-a Test kit
-a Heater
-Decorations

I'm going to order Stability and prime online.So I'll give my tap water's parameters when I get the test kit.

1 last question,Would 100 ml Prime and 100 ml Stability cover my 40 Gallon ?

 

Make sure you get the API Freshwater Master Test Kit and not the strips even though you may be tempted by the price tag on the strips. It's actually more expensive than getting the Master Test Kit because the Master Kit gives you over 800 tests.

An adjustable heater and thermometer (if you don't have one already) would also be good.

I don't know if the 100ml Stability would be enough but definitely get at least the 500ml of Prime. You'll always use it.

What are the dimensions of the tank?

 

Hey el337 ,I'll try to get the API,but struggling to find one in my area .If I don't find one,what other test kit would you suggest?

I'll get 250 ml of stability and maybe 250 ml or 500 ml of Prime in that case.

I'm not sure in dimensions but its a higher tank than it is wide

Sorry for being so inaccurate.They ordered the tank and can't seem to give me tank messurements

 

The stability will. Prime is used all the time so the more you have the longer it lasts you. It will do for a few months at least though. I have 50 ml bottles but it's a 10 gallon. If you have stability left over after your cycle don't throw it out. You can add a dose every time you add more fish to help your tank minI cycle.

You will need a filter. Decide which kind you want. I'd suggest a hang on back (HOB) as they are pretty user friendly. Ignore the directions when they talk about replacing media. Leave it in and just rinse it in used tank water when it gets clogged.

There are a few designs for hob filters. Most people like the aquaclears because you can add a lot of things to them. I prefer aqueous type because they self prime, so if the power goes out they will be able to run themselves, sometimes the aquaclear design won't be able to do this. The downside is they have less room to add things. I would stick to these types to start out with. MAKE SURE you get one that has 320 to 400 gallons per hour circulation. It may say it's good for up to 40 gallons, but in reality not be good for more than 20. You want 8 to 10 times of your tank volume per hour.

I can't remember what wattage heater you will want, but generally if it says it will do your size tank then it's fine. Higher ratings will work less hard to keep temps up.

On heaters, put it in your tank near the bottom and let it sit under water for 15 minutes before plugging it in. If it's not working right unplug it before you stick your hand in the tank of you may get quite a shock. If you don't have it completely covered in water when it's running it can explode. Don't ever forget this, especially during water changes and vacuuming.

Vacuums are really handy. You'll need one to clean up your gravel or sand. They range from cheap tube with a hard cylinder, to a hand bulb priming one, to a battery operating one, to one that attaches to a faucet so it can also be used to fill your tank. It's your call, but always remember to match temperatures before adding water back in.

If you plan on planting things in your tank lighting is a very complex but also easy thing. For now I would just use a display light that comes with the hood.

You will also want a tank thermometer. Some people prefer one that sits inside the tank, I've got 2 stick on one's. It's just a general idea to know that your heater is doing its job at a quick glance.

I would also get a clean bucket that never has and never will have any soap or chemicals touch it. Any soap or chemical can kill your tank, so never use anything but water to clean anything in or on your tank.

 

The directions for the stability are on pretty simple and are printed on the bottle. If I remember right it's one capful for every 20 gallons on the first and one capful for every 40 gallons for the next 7 days. Make sure you read the bottle.

 

What substrate are you going to use? Avoid the urge to mix different colored gravel, or gravel and sand together, this will become a nightmare. Sand is actually easier to clean. Many people prefer black, but many also prefer natural. Look up how to rinse it before you add it if you go with sand. You have to rinse everything before adding it but sand takes a bit of time to rinse thoroughly sometimes.

 

Thanks for the huge reply Wraithen,Appreciate it I already have a thermometer aswell as a vacuum and buckets.The tank already comes with a filter,so that's covered aswell

I am using filter sand and already looked up how to clean in on youtube and got a video from The King of DIY

 

What filter? They aren't always good if they come with tanks, and sometimes aren't enough. Are you planning on running an air pump for anything in the tank?

My tank came with a tetra whisper. It was OK for the tank but the design wasn't a good fit and finish so it allowed water to flow out of the wrong side a little. Not a big deal as it still functioned fine but it bothered me that it was being wasteful. It's now in a cupboard in case my new one dies.

 

I'm not sure what filter it is as I mentioned I have not picked up the tank yet.I'll look into getting a different one if its not good

 

Hey @el337 ,I'll try to get the API,but struggling to find one in my area .If I don't find one,what other test kit would you suggest?

I'll get 250 ml of stability and maybe 250 ml or 500 ml of Prime in that case.

I'm not sure in dimensions but its a higher tank than it is wide

Sorry for being so inaccurate.They ordered the tank and can't seem to give me tank messurements

Amazon sells the test kit for cheaper than the stores.

Is the tank a name brand or is it being custom built? Dimensions of the tank would be important to know so we can advise if the stock you want will work.

 

Any liquid test kit that comes with beakers will work as long as it's for aquarium use. We just prefer apI because we're used to it. Let us know what you get as there are some unexplained intricacies with the test that aren't in the directions.

 

I can't order from amazon as i'm from South Africa.

The tank is a name brand,i'll give the dimensions as soon as I get it

 

I think the Salifert and Nutrafin test kits may be available to you if you do an online search? I believe a couple of forum members have used them.

 

You can also check eBay. Most of the Amazon sellers also sell through ebay.

 

How are Sera products?And when I buy test kits,can I buy them individually?If so which should I get pH,Ammonia,nitrite and nitrate?

 

Kits are usually cheaper. What you listed will work 90% of the time. Kh and gh may need to be tested if you have a cycle crash or ph crash but the strips will be good enough and you won't need those very often.

 

Oh,My lfs has a TetraPond Test kit,Is there any difference with ponds?

 

Usually the ponds won't test the parameters at the levels we use. If it does ammonia by .25, nitrites by .25 and nitrates by 5 or 10, it will work

 

I have a Stability help question too, the bottle says you can add fish in during the cycle and that it should be cycled in a week. What are opinions on this? I have been cycling a 20 gallon for a week with a few white clouds (just for cycling), water changes every other days with Prime and Stability. I want to get some KuhlI Loaches but don't want to lose any if I add them too soon. (I don't have water testing supplies, but plan to buy some soon.)

 

Is it possible for me to cycle my tank without water testing kits?And if so how?

 

Just get the big bottle of both ... you will use the prime with every water change and it could take a while to cycle so you want to make sure you have enough stability to get through. My latest tank took longer than the 7 days and I was doing daily water changes for a while, redosing after every change.

 

Ok,i'll make sure to get enough,but is it possible to cycle my tank without using a test kit in the process?

 

Is it possible for me to cycle my tank without water testing kits?And if so how?

No. You want to be able to monitor the parameters so you can do water changes when appropriate to keep levels ideal and safe for the fish. You'll also want to probably start with a few fish to get your cycle going then add a few at a time over the next several weeks to allow your beneficial bacteria time to catch up with the added bio load.

I have a Stability help question too, the bottle says you can add fish in during the cycle and that it should be cycled in a week. What are opinions on this? I have been cycling a 20 gallon for a week with a few white clouds (just for cycling), water changes every other days with Prime and Stability. I want to get some KuhlI Loaches but don't want to lose any if I add them too soon. (I don't have water testing supplies, but plan to buy some soon.)

You really need to be able to test the parameters while cycling so you can do water changes when necessary.

 

I found a test kit but it only seems to test pH,kH,gH,nitrites and Nitrates,Would it work?

How is Seachem's pH alert and Ammonia alert?

Edit* I also saw the Tetra 6 in 1 strips,How are they?

Which one of the aboves would work best

 

Strips will work in a pinch, and you have no other choice but to use them. The problem is, strips deteriorate over time because air has its own peramaters. If a strip is left out, eventually you will see the strips change color if you put a new strip next to one that sat out. So every time you open your package of strips, your getting air transfer, and your strips are being used up. Strips are ok for kh and gh testing though, as long as you don't touch the pad to anything then water that your testing. Also, as the strips age from the air, they can only give a ball park range, and a lot of times, you have to do multiple tests and average out all the test results to narrow down the reading. You do not get this problem with liquid tests, which is why we recommend it....and it's cheaper in the long run.

You really need a test for ammonia. Ammonia alert shows only free ammonia, not total ammonia. Prime detoxifies free ammonia into ammonium, but in high amounts can stop your cycle. The ammonia alert is ok after you finish cycling, but I personally would not use it to cycle with. You really need an ammonia test kit.

 

Maybe I get sera aqua test set and a ammonia test set on its own?

 

That should work as long as the sera is for freshwater. I was looking on line and tetra does have liquid tests, but I did not see it come in a pack like a master test kit. If you can afford it, you could get the individual test kits for ph, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Problem is, they only do about 50 tests before you run out. I have no idea about the sera test kit though. I didn't get a chance to look at it before I came back to FishLore.

 

Ok thanks for the help,the last thing I found tough

Ive never heard of the brand name but it tests pH,Ammonia,Nitrite and Nitrate

 

OMG hahahahaha (holds stomach while doubled over from laughing)

API used to make something similar in the 1980's and 90's. I actually posted pictures of my old test kit like that in the thread called Blast from the past. hahahaha. I'm sorry for laughing, but that kit brought back memories.

Ok now to be serious. That test kit is pretty accurate as long as you never touch the tabs, and the tabs fully dissolve. I had problems getting the tabs to fully dissolve, and what I ended up doing is dropping the tabs in the test tubes, wait a couple of minutes, then shake and shake and shake til all was dissolved and mixed. Can be a pain, and tired hand and arm at the end. But like I said, can be accurate if you can get it all to dissolve.

Now taking into account mine was from the 80's, the formula for the tabs is probably better and dissolve faster. Personally though, I have no idea about the manufacturer or anything about that product.

I was looking over the sera products, and they do not give a lot of information. Personally I would go with sera or Tetra liquid tests.

 

Now I feel soooo stupid.. .I don't know what to get

 

I didn't mean to do that. It just reminded me of the problems I had in the past.

I was looking up on it, and the accuracy is there. I saw nothing about the tabs not dissolving. I did see though the test tubes crack and break easily.

 

If you were in my shoes,what would you get ?

 

Personally I would go with this....



Though you will rarely need to test phosphate, iron, and copper, and you don't need chlorine test unless you have no dechlorinater. You would only really need to test phosphate if you get a really bad algy problem, and copper and iron if you get inverts like shrimp and they are dieing on you. So might be overkill in testing supplies, but I personally like to have them on hand.

Or the smaller one and purchase the nitrate and ammonia test kit separately, though could cost more in the long run, because buying individual test kits seem to cost more then the bulk from a master type test kit.

Third choice would be the tetra, but cost would be the factor since you have to buy it individually.....Though you could skip the kh and gh test unless you plan on Shrimp or gave ph issues....And that will save you money.

Lastly would be the tabs by interpet. 20 test per to me is not worth the cost unless the tank is already cycled and need weekly testing for water changes. You will run out fast during the cycle, and have to buy more.

That's my opinion though. Others might suggest otherwise.

 

Ok, I found a Very expensive API master kit (since it was imported from the US) with the same price as the Sera Master box,which one should I go for?

 

API master test kit imo.

 

Ok ,i'll try ordering one,tanks

Now back to the stocking,I Really like the Blue rams and was wondering if I could maybe a get a pair rather than one?Then my Stocking would go like this

-2 GBR
-2 Pearl Gourami
-6 SterbaI Cory
-12 Cherry barbs

Would that be overstocking? Would they be aggresive towards each other? Any other problems or tips?Thanks

Oh and I don't have the dimensions of the tank but I can give a picture



(Not the pink one)

 

Dimensions would help but I'm not sure if you have room for 2 especially if they start breeding, They may get aggressive especially when the corys start exploring the rams' territory.

 

Will this work for testing my Ammonia?