uncclewis
- #1
Hello gang.
I want to say that seachem excel and similar products use a chemical called glutaraladehyde. This chemical is a great disinfectant, however, it is very toxic, and is a very, very poor method of CO2 induction into the aquarium. CO2 is produced when the fish breaks the toxic molecule apart (1 molecule of CO2 per molecule of toxin). However, it would do damage before getting there.
There are two cheaper and less toxic alternatives, but, there are some caveats to one of them. The side effect is that with both of these, you can get away with less lightning, and have a nitrate reduction. This is better than the toxic product, too.
1) Cheapest product. Sugar, or glucose liquid (can buy on amazon). Do not use too much of the sugar! You will end up killing both your fish and your plants (e.g. acute toxicity is probably like greater than 5-10% per volume of water; chronic toxicity is probably lower, e.g. 2%); it will encourage the wrong kind of bacteria growth, kill your nitrifying bacteria, and cause toxic intermediate buildup because the bacteria died. You want a concentration of glucose of about .005-.01% per volume of liquid in the aquarium. Each molecule of glucose will give you 6 molecules of CO2; but at the same time, a smaller amount of bacteria will be using the CO2 and making things. Therefore, if you look at the normal PPM of CO2 at 15-30PPM, this will increase it by up to a theoretical 400PPM (because fructose produces slightly less), and then this bacteria will use some of it and plants. This is above the level at which gases can be held in water, but, it will not be all at one time, it will be within one day or so peak. However, because bacteria and plants will be using more of it, it should not get lethal. Still, because this method provides so much CO2 and because plants will be photosynthesizing less, a water aerator is strongly recommended- this is regardless of whether O2 levels are OK. The aerator will help drive off excess CO2 and provide oxygen exchanges.Too much CO2 competitively binds O2 for hemoglobin.
Dose this NO MORE than every 3 days because it is un-necessary and it may allow the buildup of intermediates when they normally are not allowed to build up and stay in the bacterial cells.
Adding a sample calculation: Say your aquarium is 75 gallons and you want the maximum dosage of .01%.
75 gallons x (.01/100) = .0075 gallons = almost 2 tablespoons.
2) More recommended method: Continuum's product. This is an already formulated version of an energy source, so that toxicity worries are alleviated and there are additional components in the product (enzymes) to promote specifically animal and plant growth, however, it would help certain bacteria to grow; typically not bad bacteria.
Below is the product.
Both of these methods would decrease nitrate through similar mechanisms, however, the first method would have the strongest impact on nitrates (because more bacteria can access this form of energy). In both of these methods, plants, fish and many bacteria would directly take in the energy from the water.
Both products increase the CO2 and increase the food that plants have to grow.
KEEP IN Mind; to occasionally dose trace elements for these bacteria and your fish. You can do this in the form of fresh trace or flourish, or other ways, But it is best to do anyway.
@CindiL @TexasDomer
I want to say that seachem excel and similar products use a chemical called glutaraladehyde. This chemical is a great disinfectant, however, it is very toxic, and is a very, very poor method of CO2 induction into the aquarium. CO2 is produced when the fish breaks the toxic molecule apart (1 molecule of CO2 per molecule of toxin). However, it would do damage before getting there.
There are two cheaper and less toxic alternatives, but, there are some caveats to one of them. The side effect is that with both of these, you can get away with less lightning, and have a nitrate reduction. This is better than the toxic product, too.
1) Cheapest product. Sugar, or glucose liquid (can buy on amazon). Do not use too much of the sugar! You will end up killing both your fish and your plants (e.g. acute toxicity is probably like greater than 5-10% per volume of water; chronic toxicity is probably lower, e.g. 2%); it will encourage the wrong kind of bacteria growth, kill your nitrifying bacteria, and cause toxic intermediate buildup because the bacteria died. You want a concentration of glucose of about .005-.01% per volume of liquid in the aquarium. Each molecule of glucose will give you 6 molecules of CO2; but at the same time, a smaller amount of bacteria will be using the CO2 and making things. Therefore, if you look at the normal PPM of CO2 at 15-30PPM, this will increase it by up to a theoretical 400PPM (because fructose produces slightly less), and then this bacteria will use some of it and plants. This is above the level at which gases can be held in water, but, it will not be all at one time, it will be within one day or so peak. However, because bacteria and plants will be using more of it, it should not get lethal. Still, because this method provides so much CO2 and because plants will be photosynthesizing less, a water aerator is strongly recommended- this is regardless of whether O2 levels are OK. The aerator will help drive off excess CO2 and provide oxygen exchanges.Too much CO2 competitively binds O2 for hemoglobin.
Dose this NO MORE than every 3 days because it is un-necessary and it may allow the buildup of intermediates when they normally are not allowed to build up and stay in the bacterial cells.
Adding a sample calculation: Say your aquarium is 75 gallons and you want the maximum dosage of .01%.
75 gallons x (.01/100) = .0075 gallons = almost 2 tablespoons.
2) More recommended method: Continuum's product. This is an already formulated version of an energy source, so that toxicity worries are alleviated and there are additional components in the product (enzymes) to promote specifically animal and plant growth, however, it would help certain bacteria to grow; typically not bad bacteria.
Below is the product.
Both of these methods would decrease nitrate through similar mechanisms, however, the first method would have the strongest impact on nitrates (because more bacteria can access this form of energy). In both of these methods, plants, fish and many bacteria would directly take in the energy from the water.
Both products increase the CO2 and increase the food that plants have to grow.
KEEP IN Mind; to occasionally dose trace elements for these bacteria and your fish. You can do this in the form of fresh trace or flourish, or other ways, But it is best to do anyway.
@CindiL @TexasDomer