Rotala Hra And Rotundrifolia Staying Green

Discussion in 'Aquarium Plants' started by nickb2000, Apr 23, 2018.

  1. nickb2000Valued MemberMember

    So I have a 10g high tech tank with some rotala Hra and Rotubdrifolia. I have co2 at 30ppm and a Fluval planted 2.0 at 90% so i have atleast 80 par in that tank. i do two 50% waterchanges a week. when i do these waterchanges i dose 6.5ppm NO3, 1.4ppm PO4, 0.3ppm FE, 4.9ppm K and micros. This is from 1 pump of the UNS all-in-one fertilizer. I also dose a additonal 2.00ppm K and 0.2ppm Fe daily. My substrate is Caribsea flora max with API root tabs. My ph is 7.0 and gh of 6. Temp is at 76f. my nitrates stay at 10ppm on average daily. So i dont know why they are staying green. If anyone can help me out that would be great. Thanks.

  2. aussieJJDudeWell Known MemberMember

    How long have you had them for?
  3. nickb2000Valued MemberMember

    the hra I've had for 5 weeks and r.rotundrifolia for 6 weeks.
  4. Jocelyn AdelmanFishlore VIPMember

    I would dose the UNS plant food 3x week, dose the iron on alternate days, and stop with the extra K (unless your plants are showing signs they need it, if so I would dose the extra K with the plant food, not the iron).
    Also, dose day after wc, not day of. So wc day 1, dose day 2, fe day 3 for your current twice weekly wc.... (normally dosed wc day 1, all in one day 2,4,6, additional fe (If needed) 3,5,7)
    Any reason you are doing 2 50% a week?

    Rotundifolia for me overall stays pretty green, slightly pinkish toward the top only.
    The h’ra if not shaded should change about mid way up, brightest coloration towards the top. I get better coloration from colorata and ‘blood red’ then the h’ra.
  5. nickb2000Valued MemberMember

    Well I was doing 3 doses of the all in one but I had crazy algae problems so I stopped dosing it and started doing 2 50% waterchanges a week and now there’s no more thread algae. And I dose the extra potassium because after reading many things online I’ve decided to dose atleast 20ppm a week of K since it doesn’t cause algae and that eliminates at limiting factor in growth. Since I dose UNS aio only 2 times a week if I didn’t dose extra iron or K then my Fe would be 0.6ppm and K would be 10.00ppm which for EI dosing is relatively low
  6. nickb2000Valued MemberMember

    My nitrates are roughly 10ppm daily which to me is high. I would prefer for closer to 5ppm. When I dosed UNS aio 3 times a week my nitrate read a constant 15ppm.
  7. nickb2000Valued MemberMember

  8. nickb2000Valued MemberMember

    Oh ya and my rotala is all unshaded. The rotundrifolia was about 4 inches in height while the hra was 6-7 inches in height and still weren’t turning colors. I forgot to mention that today I upped my light from 80 to 90% strength. And I also upped my co2 which was actually low. Closer to 20ppm, I think I hit the needle valve turning it down on accident. So I turned it up a tad bit so it should be around 30ppm now.
  9. Jocelyn AdelmanFishlore VIPMember

    My rotundifolia won’t turn puckish til it hits the top, the h’ra about 3/4 way.
    For co2 use the drop checker for color, also measure ph drop. Take ph in am before co2, and again about mid day. Should be a drop of 1.
    Also make sure co2 is on for about an hr pre lights on.

    As for the nitrates, aim to keep them above 10. Some plants (ludwigias) might show better colors when starved of nitrates, but the rest will suffer. Rotala stems to show more coloration around 20ppm.
    I aim to keep my tanks 20-40 ppm, with 30 being ideal.

    Likely the algae issues came from an unbalanced start, I dose Ei on all my tanks (18 total, 9 are high tech) and have no issues.

    Either way I would dose the K with the plant food, and fe on alternating days. Don’t dose same day as wc, dose day after
  10. nickb2000Valued MemberMember

    Ok, I’ll give that a shot

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