Rodi Questions

Hello.

So much like several of our Freshwater members, I've been reading up on and getting interested in SW. Thanks to Lchi87 , Nart , grantm91 , stella1979 , and a few others.

So, I've been looking at RODI units on Amazon tonight. I found one for only $65, but it said something about the replacement parts being more pricey since it was an off brand. I found another that seemed like a better known brand for $113, and it's a 6 stage.

With that being said, naturally it's now time to make myself look really stupid with a few questions.

1. Where does the RODI water come out at? With a GPD rate of like 50, it sounds like this water must collect somewhere?

2. Is it possible to not constantly run the RODI unit, and only turn it on when you need water for your Saltwater tank? Or is this something pointless to wonder about?

3. Are they very easy to hook up under a sink?

4. I'm assuming that since you have to mix your own salt and RODI water in buckets that you do the old bucket brigade technique to get it into the tank?

5. Since salt does not evaporate, and your water level has to stay the same at all times, this is where you just top off with RODI water straight from the unit?

6. What are considered some good brands of RODI units?

7. Is a TDS meter hard to use?

8. What else should I know?

 

JLeeM
Hi! I don't have an RODI unit but Ive been reading up and watching stuff
I'm not the best advice because of that but since no one else has replied I'll state what I know and if I'm wrong Id love if someone would correct me

1. You have to have a bucket that it fills into. I'm not sure on what tubes are what but one of them is where the water drains out where you have to collect it.
2. You can connect them and disconnect them as you please and run them as you please
4. Not sure what the "bucket brigade technique" looks like but I'm sure ive probably done it but Ive seen people use the pumps they useto mix the salt and connect it to some tubing to pump into the tank.
5. Yes, most likely you'll have to top off with unmixed water every day or so
6. AquaFX I believe is the one most people use but I plan on getting Aquatic Life

 

With that being said, naturally it's now time to make myself look really stupid with a few questions.

The only stupid question is the one you don't ask!

1. It comes in a hose which you plug into a sink our something, and then waste water comes out another hsoe generally at a waste to good ration of about 4 gallons bad to 1 good. Then good comes out a hose where you collect it in a bucket. a 50 gpd unit will make about 2 gallons an hour.

2. Definitely! You just turn the water flow on when you want water, and off when your done. I keep mine up in the garage where I have a utility sink. I take it from where I keep it on a shelf (I have the AquaticLife Twist in), screw it into the sink, put the waste water tube down the drain, and then the good water tube in a 5 gal. Bucket. I leave it for an hour and I have 5 gallons of water (100gpd unit).

3. In order to keep it under your sink, hooked up I assume to the water under the sink so you don't have tubes sticking out? Can take a bit of plumbing. However, you could keep it under your sink, and just screw in the hose into the faucet and turn the faucet on when you want water.

4. Yup. I like to make a big batch of RO/DI (well not big bc I have a nano tank but 15 gallons of RO/DI), use 5 gallons to go ahead and make saltwater for my next two water changes, and keep the other 10 in a brute so when I need to I can mix more sw and have RO/DI for topoffs,

5. Not straight from the unit. You either get a Auto top off which reads the water level in your tank and when water level drops activates a little pump in an ATO container. Don't ever want to hook the RO/DI up to your tank, if the float valve fails and your gone you could have lots and lots of water on the floor. Or, you can keep RO/DI water in a bucket and just top off the cup or two a day that evaps. Its what I do, but I'll be building a DIY ATO soon.

6. I like the Aquatic Life 4 stage RO/DI twist in. Easy to use. Other great brands are BRS, Barracuda, and SpectraPure.

7. Nope. I have a pen and I just stick it in the water and it tells me the TDS.

I think you've got it!

 

Hey JLeeM - no need to feel stupid at all. The RODI unit was quite intimidating at first. I was also so lost with how it works and etc.. etc...
So - with the comment on the 6 stage RODI units on Amazon, I did look at those once upon a time, but most seem to adapt to a pressurized tank to store water along with a spout? I was like man... I just want a simple one for fish use. So I can't comment to the ones on Amazon.

This is how mine looks like. To give you an idea.
It's set-up in my laundry room and I hooked it up to my cold water line that goes into my washer.
Y splitter adapter. Let's me control with a valve of when I want to turn on the unit for water to go through it.





1) GPD of 50 means that's how much water it can make in a day. So, 50 gallons per day, which also means that it trickles out very slowly. Typically, I can make 5 gallons of RODI water in about an hour. I have a 100 GPD unit. So I would assume a 50 GPD would take twice the time to make 5 gallons of water.

2) Correct. I only turn it on to make RODI water. I utilize a float valve to turn off the water for me. Just in case I forget to come and turn it off manually. Typically I'll set a timer for 1 hour to remind myself to go turn off the water, but the float valve will stop the water for me.

3) Only thing with hooking it under the sink is that you need to puncture into your existing hose for water. It's easy, but not always the best option for folks who live in apartments. Alternatively, people get faucet adapters to just twist onto the faucet for their source water.
Here is a video by BRS that might help you with the different RODI installation methods. It was made 5 years ago, but still relevant.

4) What do you mean bucket brigade technique? You mean to put water back into the system? I have a hose that connects to the water pump and turn that on so I don't have to hold and pour a 5 gallon bucket over the tank. Makes it a lot easier to refill the tank.

5) Correct. But usually reefers will have like a 5 gallon of RODI water ready. They either pour RODI water back into the tank manually or like me utilize a Auto Top Off unit, like a Smart Micro ATO to top the tank off for you.

6) RODI units from Bulk Reef Supply, Marine Depot, or SpectraPure are all good ones with interchangeable filters and etc... the replacements are fairly cheap.

7) TDS meter is very easy to use. Hand-held ones you just turn on the device and dip it in the water to get a reading. For me, I have the TDS meter hooked up to my unit. I press On/Off to get a reading.

8) One thing you need to know. After getting an RODI unit, get a pressure meter as well. Look at my RODI picture and you will see the pressure gauge. When I first installed and tried to use the unit, the water pressure at my apartment was only about 30 psi. To properly run an RODI unit, I think you need at least 60 psi. Ideally you want 80 psI for most RO membranes (it usually tells you the recommened psi). Proper water pressure going through the RO membrane will efficiently filter water for you as well as make RODI water within the stated GPD. To combat my low water pressure, I had to get the booster pump you see there on the right.

Everything looks complicated. But once you get the unit, it starts to make sense.

 

Good answers to your questions above OP. I just wanted to chime in and say I have one of those drinking water units sold on Amazon. It's like what Nart mentioned above and came with a pressurized tank and a slI'm faucet. It was an easy installation, the tank is under the kitchen sink, and we have the faucet placed to deliver RO water right next to the kitchen's tap faucet . RO is what goes into the pressurized tank, and we use RO for all of our drinking water, which is a lot in a family of five. (We also use RO for Freshwater tanks, but that's another story.) Anyhow, we stopped buying bottled water and lugging it home, and that's nice. It's certainly not for everyone, but just thought I'd share why we went this route.

 

Just to go off what stella1979 said. With my Marine Depot 4-stage RODI unit. Right before the DI filtration, I added a T valve, so that I can utilize the RO water for drinking and RODI for making saltwater. It's safe to drink RODI, it tastes a little off in my opinion.
Anyways, that's how I sold it to my wife to let me get an RODI unit... so we can 'also' use it to make RO water for drinking

 

Nart stella1979 I don’t know who’s system sounds snazzier, but they both make me want my own .

 

grantm91 if you get one you'll regret not having one for the rest of your life haha. Seriously, idk what I'd be doing without one! I go through a good 3-4 gallons a week just topping off. Throw in a 2-5 gallon wc and I'd be going to the fish store for 10 gallons like once every week and a half. So nice to go, oh I need some water, go turn on the faucet and set a timer for an hour and boom 5 gallons of RO/DI water.

 

Culprit I watched the BRS video and Ive got a itch, I know where id put it too haha.

 

Hahaha yesss you should totally do it grantm91. It will be so worth it. You'll be hitting yourself on the head for not doing it sooner LOL

 

I can say that this thing is starting to make more sense. I was previously under the impression that it stayed on under a sink all the time much like a regular charcoal water filter.

I like the sounds of the twist on one Culprit mentioned.

By "bucket brigade" I mean just simply pouring water from some kind of container into the tank. Unlike using a water changer in Freshwater (different story all together I know).

So it seems like to me that water in Saltwater tanks evaporates faster? Or does it just depend on the tank and the top you use for it? I ask because I've read that most use a mesh top to allow more light through for reefs instead of a glass top. Anyway, I understand the need to have some RODI water already on hand where you're not always waiting. Sounds like some of you have some type of container set up with beside your tank with a pump and float valve to automatically top off? At this point that's really confusing to me. (SW is a lot different from Freshwater to me in that there's tons of all this extra STUFF you can utilize. Then everyone utilizes different things out of that stuff. Makes it very confusing.)

Thank you everyone so much for trying to help me out with this. I'm sure that I'll be popping back onto this thread from time to time to ask more detailed questions if I ever get the chance to set up a Saltwater tank (probably before I hypothetically take that plunge). One of my big reservations about trying Saltwater was the struggle of getting the water I needed though which is starting to make more sense. Thanks again!

 

I have the AquaticLife RO Buddie and I have to say I'm quite please with it. With the DI cartridge it produces 0 TDS water and without it it produced 5-10ppm TDS. I just recently bought a new carbon cartridge, sediment cartridge and RO membrane for it and spent less than $50. So if you're looking for a more budget friendly option its worth it. I also want to add I've been using it for about 3 years and still haven't had to change any of the cartridges yet as its still producing 0 TDS water. Also, note I haven't used it as frequently as I do now as I was only making water periodically for a 29 gallon tank and now have a 75 gallon.

 

I like it as well. I was originally a little wary of it because I thought the cartridges might cost more than standard. Nope. They're the same, mabye a few dollars more. But its small, easy to move, and really easy to work.

Sometimes. Mainly because the water is kept warm, and we don't use glass tops usually. What I'm doing right now is I have a 5 gallon bucket I keep full of RO/DI water. I keep it in my garage like 20 feet from the tank. Every morning I get 2-3 cups of water and put it in the tank. I'm going to be building a DIY ATO, where there is a small pump in container (going to use a 5 gallon tank since it fits perfectly under the stand), which when a float switch in the tank goes down, and so completes the circuit, it turns the pump on until the float switch goes up and stops the circuit. I haven't built it yet, waiting on materials to arrive but it cost about $25 for everything, float switch holder, pump, ect. Nart and Nanologist have a smart micro ATO which you don't have to build, just plug and play. A little safer too. Either way works, whether topping off automatically or manually.

 

was thinking of doing the same thing with a 5/10 gallon tank under my display for ATO. Was also thinking of the micro ATO lol don't trust myself with a DIY ATO.

 

Jayd976 I'll link you in my thread when I post the building pics. Its super easy actually. Check out King of DIYs video on it. I'm going to be making it with double float switches in splash/snail proof jars. Double failsafe.

 

I have the AquaticLife RO Buddie and I have to say I'm quite please with it. With the DI cartridge it produces 0 TDS water and without it it produced 5-10ppm TDS. I just recently bought a new carbon cartridge, sediment cartridge and RO membrane for it and spent less than $50. So if you're looking for a more budget friendly option its worth it. I also want to add I've been using it for about 3 years and still haven't had to change any of the cartridges yet as its still producing 0 TDS water. Also, note I haven't used it as frequently as I do now as I was only making water periodically for a 29 gallon tank and now have a 75 gallon.

I think that's the cheaper one that I looked at, but the 100 GPD model is only a 3 stage for RO water. It looks like somehow the DI canister can be added to it to convert it to a RODI 4 stage? The lifespan of it sounds really good since I'd probably only be starting out with a 20-40 gallon tank (probably more on the 20 end).

I like it as well. I was originally a little wary of it because I thought the cartridges might cost more than standard. Nope. They're the same, mabye a few dollars more. But its small, easy to move, and really easy to work.

Sometimes. Mainly because the water is kept warm, and we don't use glass tops usually. What I'm doing right now is I have a 5 gallon bucket I keep full of RO/DI water. I keep it in my garage like 20 feet from the tank. Every morning I get 2-3 cups of water and put it in the tank. I'm going to be building a DIY ATO, where there is a small pump in container (going to use a 5 gallon tank since it fits perfectly under the stand), which when a float switch in the tank goes down, and so completes the circuit, it turns the pump on until the float switch goes up and stops the circuit. I haven't built it yet, waiting on materials to arrive but it cost about $25 for everything, float switch holder, pump, ect. Nart and Nanologist have a smart micro ATO which you don't have to build, just plug and play. A little safer too. Either way works, whether topping off automatically or manually.

Is the RO Buddie the twist on model you were talking about? If so (asked Jayd967 too) can the 100 GPD 3 stage RO unit be converted into a 4 stage RODI unit with the addition of the DI cartridge? I like the idea of it only taking about an hour to get 5 gallons of water versus 2 hours.

So, I take it that going anywhere away from home for a couple days would require some kind of ATO system? The DIY you have planned sounds neat, being that the micro ones are like $130 lol. That's still really confusing to me though. Float switches and what nots are still new material to me. So.......

Jayd976 I'll link you in my thread when I post the building pics. Its super easy actually. Check out King of DIYs video on it. I'm going to be making it with double float switches in splash/snail proof jars. Double failsafe.

Can you tag me too? Pictures would help me understand I think.

 

Yes you can add the DI canister it simply clips on. Just need some tubing to install it. Also it connects to any standard faucet so you can just hook it up when you need it and store it away when you don’t. It’s very convenient.

 

I don't have the RO buddie, I got the Aquatic Life 4 stage twist in. Comes with RO membrane, Sediment filter, Carbon block filter, and DI cartridge.

So, I take it that going anywhere away from home for a couple days would require some kind of ATO system? The DIY you have planned sounds neat, being that the micro ones are like $130 lol. That's still really confusing to me though. Float switches and what nots are still new material to me. So.......

Yes, unless you can get someone else to top off. And yeah, I'm on a tight budget haha so $25 for a well working ATO compared to a $130... I am taking a slight risk, but I've doubled up my float switches and gong to make them splash proof snail proof holders (little jars with tiny holes drilled in the bottom) so I think it will work fine. They'll be gettng a good cleaning every water change too. And yup I'll tag you! I don't know when I'll be able to set it up, most of the parts came from China off of eBay, I have everything except for the float switches.

Basically, how it works is, you can't hook up the float switch straight to the pump. the float switch cannot handle the voltage. So you conenct the float switch to a relay. A relay is a little piece of equipment that you splice into the live wire side of a power cord. So it has power. You connect the float switch to the relay. When the float switch gives the signal that it needs water (aka connects the circuit), the relay opens the main wire to the pump. When the float switch goes off, the relay closes the main wire to the pump, pump goes off. I'll just be wiring in another float switch so both switches have to be open in order to work. I had to watch King of DIYs video on it a few times, pausing every few seconds.

 

Yes you can add the DI canister it simply slips one. Just need some tubing to install it. Also it connects to any standard faucet so you can just hook it up when you need it and store it away when you don’t. It’s very convenient.

I'm liking the sounds of this one more and more.

 

I don't have the RO buddie, I got the Aquatic Life 4 stage twist in. Comes with RO membrane, Sediment filter, Carbon block filter, and DI cartridge.



Yes, unless you can get someone else to top off. And yeah, I'm on a tight budget haha so $25 for a well working ATO compared to a $130... I am taking a slight risk, but I've doubled up my float switches and gong to make them splash proof snail proof holders (little jars with tiny holes drilled in the bottom) so I think it will work fine. They'll be gettng a good cleaning every water change too. And yup I'll tag you! I don't know when I'll be able to set it up, most of the parts came from China off of eBay, I have everything except for the float switches.

Basically, how it works is, you can't hook up the float switch straight to the pump. the float switch cannot handle the voltage. So you conenct the float switch to a relay. A relay is a little piece of equipment that you splice into the live wire side of a power cord. So it has power. You connect the float switch to the relay. When the float switch gives the signal that it needs water (aka connects the circuit), the relay opens the main wire to the pump. When the float switch goes off, the relay closes the main wire to the pump, pump goes off. I'll just be wiring in another float switch so both switches have to be open in order to work. I had to watch King of DIYs video on it a few times, pausing every few seconds.

So....how does the float switch know when to signal the relay?

 

Well, electricity is going into the relay (oh yeah, you have to hook the relay up to a power source) and its trying to make a circuit to flip the main switch so the main wire is connected through. So electricity goes into the relay, into one wire of the float switch. When the float switch goes down, it connects the circuit, so then the electricity continues through the float switch, and back into the relay, completeing the circuit. Then the relay has the power to flip the main switch. WHen enough water is put in so the float switch goes up, the circuit is broken and the relay cuts the main power off