RO or RO/DI

Blondeath

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Which type of unit should I get to lower my ph and water hardness?
My gh and kh are 300-400ppm. And my ph is 7.8 out of the tap and 12-24hrs later is 8.2-8.3.
I have a dual stage water filter that we haven’t ever used since living here. I checked the water from it and it is 6.8-7.0 from there but 24hrs later it is 8.2-8.3.

I’m not definitely getting a unit as I think a stable ph is better than trying to lower it but I was just looking into it.
 

coralbandit

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IMO you need to know TDS also .
I use RO , RO/DI and tap and the difference between them with conventional test [pH /GH/Kh] does not show the same reduction that takes place IMO ..
My water from tap is 7.6 pH 2-3 KH and 9GH with a TDS of 350+
From RO it is 7.4 pH 1-2 KH 7 GH with a TDS of 20
With DI the ph/KH/GH are the same as RO but 0 TDS due to DI resin ..
Just going off pH /KH /GH seems not to tell any of the major changes that have happened in my case ..
I know most say TDS is a general measurement that does not explain all [like General hardness?] but it sure seems to change a whole lot more in my system ..I run a BRS 6 stage dual DI chloramine deluxe sytem with pressure pump and inline TDS meters...
I make water for my breeding and none of it would be possible without TDS for me ..
My rams like 100TDS and that # has worked for all I have ever suggested regardless of their other parameters..
 
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Blondeath

Blondeath

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coralbandit said:
IMO you need to know TDS also .
I use RO , RO/DI and tap and the difference between them with conventional test [pH /GH/Kh] does not show the same reduction that takes place IMO ..
My water from tap is 7.6 pH 2-3 KH and 9GH with a TDS of 350+
From RO it is 7.4 pH 1-2 KH 7 GH with a TDS of 20
With DI the ph/KH/GH are the same as RO but 0 TDS due to DI resin ..
Just going off pH /KH /GH seems not to tell any of the major changes that have happened in my case ..
I know most say TDS is a general measurement that does not explain all [like General hardness?] but it sure seems to change a whole lot more in my system ..I run a BRS 6 stage dual DI chloramine deluxe sytem with pressure pump and inline TDS meters...
I make water for my breeding and none of it would be possible without TDS for me ..
My rams like 100TDS and that # has worked for all I have ever suggested regardless of their other parameters..
I have been hoping for my albino corydoras to spawn to finish filling my tank. But I’m guessing they aren’t spawning due to the horrible water.
So you think I should buy a tds meter and check the water? And go from there?
 
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Blondeath

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MissPanda said:
I have nasty tap water and use RO water. Are you planning to mix RO water with your tap or just use straight RO water?
Either/or I’m not sure! I haven’t thought that far
 
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Blondeath

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coralbandit do you have a suggestion for one?
 

FinalFins

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I cannot comment on the suggestions but when you do switch, gradually adjust the ratio of tap/ro water so the fish don't get a sudden shock :)

Maybe you knew that already?
 

coralbandit

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I mix my RO [no DI for freshwater] with my tap to reach the TDS I want ..
DI is the most expensive part of RO/DI as you go through it the fastest on average and thus need to replace it .
Besides not wanting to waste money or change filters more then I want ,my RO is 20 and I want 100 so no real reason to completely strip it ??
I just got new TDS meters as I say they are chaep and irreplaceable for me ..Wll I will replace old with new of the same ..
HM3 TDS meter ..


What fish are you keeping ?
100- 200 TDS is good for most soft water
200 -300 is safe for medium /neutral fish
300 plus is better for hard water fish
Some real hard water fish will want values over 500 which I believe is considered not drinkable in municipal water ..
I have used wonder shells and baking soda to get my swordtails to over 1,000 TDS but that all calculated and raised slowly ..
This is all just my personal take on it .
 
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Blondeath

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FinalFins said:
I cannot comment on the suggestions but when you do switch, gradually adjust the ratio of tap/ro water so the fish don't get a sudden shock :)

Maybe you knew that already?
Yes I already knew but it’s good for any other who refer to this post
 

MissPanda

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Blondeath said:
Either/or I’m not sure! I haven’t thought that far
If you're just mixing maybe you'd be better off just doing RO refills in those 5 gallon jugs. I actually use 100% RO water from dispensaries and remineralize it. I use a 5 gallons per water change and have 4 bottles. That lasts 4 weeks and that's using all of it. If you mixed your RO with your tap it might be cheaper to go that route if you have a place that sells refills cheap. I spend $2 a refill. I want an actual RO system one day, but they're expensive.
 
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Blondeath

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coralbandit said:
I mix my RO [no DI for freshwater] with my tap to reach the TDS I want ..
DI is the most expensive part of RO/DI as you go through it the fastest on average and thus need to replace it .
Besides not wanting to waste money or change filters more then I want ,my RO is 20 and I want 100 so no real reason to completely strip it ??
I just got new TDS meters as I say they are chaep and irreplaceable for me ..Wll I will replace old with new of the same ..
HM3 TDS meter ..


What fish are you keeping ?
100- 200 TDS is good for most soft water
200 -300 is safe for medium /neutral fish
300 plus is better for hard water fish
Some real hard water fish will want values over 500 which I believe is considered not drinkable in municipal water ..
I have used wonder shells and baking soda to get my swordtails to over 1,000 TDS but that all calculated and raised slowly ..
This is all just my personal take on it .
I currently have albino cories and a betta. But I’d like to have other fish like rams and shrimp and angelfish and Plecos... etc. (lets just say MTS is hitting hard.) but I want to care for them the best. I’d like them to be their happiest. And although I know most fish from pet stores will be fine in whatever water because they are captive bred but doesn’t having a soft water fish in hard water have some sort of effect? If they aren’t happy enough to breed does that mean they aren’t at their happiest? I’ve been worried to get any more fish due to my water
 
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Blondeath

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I was looking at the BRS 150gpd water saver. I like the thought of not wasting too much water. I would need to some how figure out our water pressure though. I have no idea how to guage that haha
 
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Blondeath

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Blondeath said:
I was looking at the BRS 150gpd water saver. I like the thought of not wasting too much water. I would need to some how figure out our water pressure though. I have no idea how to guage that haha
Here is a photo of what I currently have
 

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mbkemp

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Blondeath said:
I was looking at the BRS 150gpd water saver. I like the thought of not wasting too much water. I would need to some how figure out our water pressure though. I have no idea how to guage that haha
You could have a plumber test the pressure on your waterlines. Your city might have code that indicates what pressure at the point of entry is, or you can do what I did. Buy the bulk reef unit that makes sense for you and set it up. Please get an auto shut off valve to prevent accidents. I can’t tell you how many times I screwed up before I bought one. Could have saved myself much pain

Once your unit is hooked up moniter your waste water. I’m at about 2-1 waste to good. I added a second membrane to get there. An in-line pump can also accomplish this for you. I didn’t have a place to plug one in so went with membrane
 
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Blondeath

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mbkemp said:
You could have a plumber test the pressure on your waterlines. Your city might have code that indicates what pressure at the point of entry is, or you can do what I did. Buy the bulk reef unit that makes sense for you and set it up. Please get an auto shut off valve to prevent accidents. I can’t tell you how many times I screwed up before I bought one. Could have saved myself much pain

Once your unit is hooked up moniter your waste water. I’m at about 2-1 waste to good. I added a second membrane to get there. An in-line pump can also accomplish this for you. I didn’t have a place to plug one in so went with membrane
My husband says ours is 60+ psi
 

jake37

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So if you produce 0 tds water - what do you put back into it to bring it up to 100 for the rams ?

coralbandit said:
IMO you need to know TDS also .
I use RO , RO/DI and tap and the difference between them with conventional test [pH /GH/Kh] does not show the same reduction that takes place IMO ..
My water from tap is 7.6 pH 2-3 KH and 9GH with a TDS of 350+
From RO it is 7.4 pH 1-2 KH 7 GH with a TDS of 20
With DI the ph/KH/GH are the same as RO but 0 TDS due to DI resin ..
Just going off pH /KH /GH seems not to tell any of the major changes that have happened in my case ..
I know most say TDS is a general measurement that does not explain all [like General hardness?] but it sure seems to change a whole lot more in my system ..I run a BRS 6 stage dual DI chloramine deluxe sytem with pressure pump and inline TDS meters...
I make water for my breeding and none of it would be possible without TDS for me ..
My rams like 100TDS and that # has worked for all I have ever suggested regardless of their other parameters..
 
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Blondeath

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jake37 said:
So if you produce 0 tds water - what do you put back into it to bring it up to 100 for the rams ?
Probably mix a certain percentage of RO with tap to get ideal TDS
 
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Blondeath

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coralbandit said:
I mix my RO [no DI for freshwater] with my tap to reach the TDS I want ..
DI is the most expensive part of RO/DI as you go through it the fastest on average and thus need to replace it .
Besides not wanting to waste money or change filters more then I want ,my RO is 20 and I want 100 so no real reason to completely strip it ??
I just got new TDS meters as I say they are chaep and irreplaceable for me ..Wll I will replace old with new of the same ..
HM3 TDS meter ..
Amazon.com: HM Digital TDS-3 Handheld TDS Meter With Carrying Case, 0 - 9990 ppm TDS Measurement Range, 1 ppm Resolution, +/- 2% Readout Accuracy: Home Improvement

What fish are you keeping ?
100- 200 TDS is good for most soft water
200 -300 is safe for medium /neutral fish
300 plus is better for hard water fish
Some real hard water fish will want values over 500 which I believe is considered not drinkable in municipal water ..
I have used wonder shells and baking soda to get my swordtails to over 1,000 TDS but that all calculated and raised slowly ..
This is all just my personal take on it .
So my husband bought me an RO unit for Christmas. I was wondering what you used to remineralize your water??
 

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