RO or RO/DI

Blondeath

Member
Which type of unit should I get to lower my ph and water hardness?
My gh and kh are 300-400ppm. And my ph is 7.8 out of the tap and 12-24hrs later is 8.2-8.3.
I have a dual stage water filter that we haven’t ever used since living here. I checked the water from it and it is 6.8-7.0 from there but 24hrs later it is 8.2-8.3.

I’m not definitely getting a unit as I think a stable ph is better than trying to lower it but I was just looking into it.
 

MissPanda

Member
I have nasty tap water and use RO water. Are you planning to mix RO water with your tap or just use straight RO water?
 

coralbandit

Member
IMO you need to know TDS also .
I use RO , RO/DI and tap and the difference between them with conventional test [pH /GH/Kh] does not show the same reduction that takes place IMO ..
My water from tap is 7.6 pH 2-3 KH and 9GH with a TDS of 350+
From RO it is 7.4 pH 1-2 KH 7 GH with a TDS of 20
With DI the ph/KH/GH are the same as RO but 0 TDS due to DI resin ..
Just going off pH /KH /GH seems not to tell any of the major changes that have happened in my case ..
I know most say TDS is a general measurement that does not explain all [like General hardness?] but it sure seems to change a whole lot more in my system ..I run a BRS 6 stage dual DI chloramine deluxe sytem with pressure pump and inline TDS meters...
I make water for my breeding and none of it would be possible without TDS for me ..
My rams like 100TDS and that # has worked for all I have ever suggested regardless of their other parameters..
 
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Blondeath

Member
coralbandit said:
IMO you need to know TDS also .
I use RO , RO/DI and tap and the difference between them with conventional test [pH /GH/Kh] does not show the same reduction that takes place IMO ..
My water from tap is 7.6 pH 2-3 KH and 9GH with a TDS of 350+
From RO it is 7.4 pH 1-2 KH 7 GH with a TDS of 20
With DI the ph/KH/GH are the same as RO but 0 TDS due to DI resin ..
Just going off pH /KH /GH seems not to tell any of the major changes that have happened in my case ..
I know most say TDS is a general measurement that does not explain all [like General hardness?] but it sure seems to change a whole lot more in my system ..I run a BRS 6 stage dual DI chloramine deluxe sytem with pressure pump and inline TDS meters...
I make water for my breeding and none of it would be possible without TDS for me ..
My rams like 100TDS and that # has worked for all I have ever suggested regardless of their other parameters..
I have been hoping for my albino corydoras to spawn to finish filling my tank. But I’m guessing they aren’t spawning due to the horrible water.
So you think I should buy a tds meter and check the water? And go from there?

MissPanda said:
I have nasty tap water and use RO water. Are you planning to mix RO water with your tap or just use straight RO water?
Either/or I’m not sure! I haven’t thought that far

coralbandit do you have a suggestion for one?
 

FinalFins

Member
I cannot comment on the suggestions but when you do switch, gradually adjust the ratio of tap/ro water so the fish don't get a sudden shock

Maybe you knew that already?
 

coralbandit

Member
I mix my RO [no DI for freshwater] with my tap to reach the TDS I want ..
DI is the most expensive part of RO/DI as you go through it the fastest on average and thus need to replace it .
Besides not wanting to waste money or change filters more then I want ,my RO is 20 and I want 100 so no real reason to completely strip it ??
I just got new TDS meters as I say they are chaep and irreplaceable for me ..Wll I will replace old with new of the same ..
HM3 TDS meter ..


What fish are you keeping ?
100- 200 TDS is good for most soft water
200 -300 is safe for medium /neutral fish
300 plus is better for hard water fish
Some real hard water fish will want values over 500 which I believe is considered not drinkable in municipal water ..
I have used wonder shells and baking soda to get my swordtails to over 1,000 TDS but that all calculated and raised slowly ..
This is all just my personal take on it .
 
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Blondeath

Member
FinalFins said:
I cannot comment on the suggestions but when you do switch, gradually adjust the ratio of tap/ro water so the fish don't get a sudden shock

Maybe you knew that already?
Yes I already knew but it’s good for any other who refer to this post
 

MissPanda

Member
Blondeath said:
Either/or I’m not sure! I haven’t thought that far
If you're just mixing maybe you'd be better off just doing RO refills in those 5 gallon jugs. I actually use 100% RO water from dispensaries and remineralize it. I use a 5 gallons per water change and have 4 bottles. That lasts 4 weeks and that's using all of it. If you mixed your RO with your tap it might be cheaper to go that route if you have a place that sells refills cheap. I spend $2 a refill. I want an actual RO system one day, but they're expensive.
 
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Blondeath

Member
coralbandit said:
I mix my RO [no DI for freshwater] with my tap to reach the TDS I want ..
DI is the most expensive part of RO/DI as you go through it the fastest on average and thus need to replace it .
Besides not wanting to waste money or change filters more then I want ,my RO is 20 and I want 100 so no real reason to completely strip it ??
I just got new TDS meters as I say they are chaep and irreplaceable for me ..Wll I will replace old with new of the same ..
HM3 TDS meter ..


What fish are you keeping ?
100- 200 TDS is good for most soft water
200 -300 is safe for medium /neutral fish
300 plus is better for hard water fish
Some real hard water fish will want values over 500 which I believe is considered not drinkable in municipal water ..
I have used wonder shells and baking soda to get my swordtails to over 1,000 TDS but that all calculated and raised slowly ..
This is all just my personal take on it .
I currently have albino cories and a betta. But I’d like to have other fish like rams and shrimp and angelfish and Plecos... etc. (lets just say MTS is hitting hard.) but I want to care for them the best. I’d like them to be their happiest. And although I know most fish from pet stores will be fine in whatever water because they are captive bred but doesn’t having a soft water fish in hard water have some sort of effect? If they aren’t happy enough to breed does that mean they aren’t at their happiest? I’ve been worried to get any more fish due to my water

I was looking at the BRS 150gpd water saver. I like the thought of not wasting too much water. I would need to some how figure out our water pressure though. I have no idea how to guage that haha

Blondeath said:
I was looking at the BRS 150gpd water saver. I like the thought of not wasting too much water. I would need to some how figure out our water pressure though. I have no idea how to guage that haha
Here is a photo of what I currently have
 

mbkemp

Member
Blondeath said:
I was looking at the BRS 150gpd water saver. I like the thought of not wasting too much water. I would need to some how figure out our water pressure though. I have no idea how to guage that haha
You could have a plumber test the pressure on your waterlines. Your city might have code that indicates what pressure at the point of entry is, or you can do what I did. Buy the bulk reef unit that makes sense for you and set it up. Please get an auto shut off valve to prevent accidents. I can’t tell you how many times I screwed up before I bought one. Could have saved myself much pain

Once your unit is hooked up moniter your waste water. I’m at about 2-1 waste to good. I added a second membrane to get there. An in-line pump can also accomplish this for you. I didn’t have a place to plug one in so went with membrane
 
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Blondeath

Member
mbkemp said:
You could have a plumber test the pressure on your waterlines. Your city might have code that indicates what pressure at the point of entry is, or you can do what I did. Buy the bulk reef unit that makes sense for you and set it up. Please get an auto shut off valve to prevent accidents. I can’t tell you how many times I screwed up before I bought one. Could have saved myself much pain

Once your unit is hooked up moniter your waste water. I’m at about 2-1 waste to good. I added a second membrane to get there. An in-line pump can also accomplish this for you. I didn’t have a place to plug one in so went with membrane
My husband says ours is 60+ psi
 

mbkemp

Member
That is enough pressure. Good luck
 

jake37

Member
So if you produce 0 tds water - what do you put back into it to bring it up to 100 for the rams ?

coralbandit said:
IMO you need to know TDS also .
I use RO , RO/DI and tap and the difference between them with conventional test [pH /GH/Kh] does not show the same reduction that takes place IMO ..
My water from tap is 7.6 pH 2-3 KH and 9GH with a TDS of 350+
From RO it is 7.4 pH 1-2 KH 7 GH with a TDS of 20
With DI the ph/KH/GH are the same as RO but 0 TDS due to DI resin ..
Just going off pH /KH /GH seems not to tell any of the major changes that have happened in my case ..
I know most say TDS is a general measurement that does not explain all [like General hardness?] but it sure seems to change a whole lot more in my system ..I run a BRS 6 stage dual DI chloramine deluxe sytem with pressure pump and inline TDS meters...
I make water for my breeding and none of it would be possible without TDS for me ..
My rams like 100TDS and that # has worked for all I have ever suggested regardless of their other parameters..
 
  • Thread Starter

Blondeath

Member
jake37 said:
So if you produce 0 tds water - what do you put back into it to bring it up to 100 for the rams ?
Probably mix a certain percentage of RO with tap to get ideal TDS
 

jake37

Member
I guess that is possible if his tap tds is 300+; my tap tds is only 130.

Blondeath said:
Probably mix a certain percentage of RO with tap to get ideal TDS
 
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Blondeath

Member
coralbandit said:
I mix my RO [no DI for freshwater] with my tap to reach the TDS I want ..
DI is the most expensive part of RO/DI as you go through it the fastest on average and thus need to replace it .
Besides not wanting to waste money or change filters more then I want ,my RO is 20 and I want 100 so no real reason to completely strip it ??
I just got new TDS meters as I say they are chaep and irreplaceable for me ..Wll I will replace old with new of the same ..
HM3 TDS meter ..
Amazon.com: HM Digital TDS-3 Handheld TDS Meter With Carrying Case, 0 - 9990 ppm TDS Measurement Range, 1 ppm Resolution, +/- 2% Readout Accuracy: Home Improvement

What fish are you keeping ?
100- 200 TDS is good for most soft water
200 -300 is safe for medium /neutral fish
300 plus is better for hard water fish
Some real hard water fish will want values over 500 which I believe is considered not drinkable in municipal water ..
I have used wonder shells and baking soda to get my swordtails to over 1,000 TDS but that all calculated and raised slowly ..
This is all just my personal take on it .
So my husband bought me an RO unit for Christmas. I was wondering what you used to remineralize your water??
 

FinalFins

Member
Seachem makes some products. Equilibrium and replenish I think. If you have a planted tank you use a specific one. Not experienced in RO though.
 

coralbandit

Member
Blondeath said:
So my husband bought me an RO unit for Christmas. I was wondering what you used to remineralize your water??
I mix my ro back with my tap to get the TDS I want . My tap is 350 TDS and my RO [no DI] is 17 but none of the other #'s [pH/GH/KH] move enough that they as accurate for me as TDS..

I use to use calcium chloride [driveway ice melter ] ,Epsom salt ,and baking soda before the tap .Only took like a 1/2 a teaspoon or less of each for 32gallons .Still got all three and use the driveway melter for my reefs calcium ...
 
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Blondeath

Member
coralbandit said:
I mix my ro back with my tap to get the TDS I want . My tap is 350 TDS and my RO [no DI] is 17 but none of the other #'s [pH/GH/KH] move enough that they as accurate for me as TDS..

I use to use calcium chloride [driveway ice melter ] ,Epsom salt ,and baking soda before the tap .Only took like a 1/2 a teaspoon or less of each for 32gallons .Still got all three and use the driveway melter for my reefs calcium ...
Okay so mixing it with tap is sufficient enough to replenish? Do you always mix a certain ratio? 25/75? 50/50? Or is it different each time? Do you let it sit for 24hrs before doing a water change? Is it possible to let it sit for too long?

I use a 32g drum to gas off my water before water changes. It sits for 3-4 days before getting used and I usually don’t end up using all of it so the remaining gets new mixed with it and sits for another 3-4 days etc. is this okay? I have aeration going for it 24/7
 

mbkemp

Member
I would get a tds meter. If you use tap water you just need to play with the ratios until you find the right mix. I use calcium sulfate, pottasium carbonate and epsom salt.

I do not aerate. I make my water in advance and mix with a bucket
 
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Blondeath

Member
mbkemp said:
I would get a tds meter. If you use tap water you just need to play with the ratios until you find the right mix. I use calcium sulfate, pottasium carbonate and epsom salt.

I do not aerate. I make my water in advance and mix with a bucket
I have a TDS meter on the way.

I aerate my 32g so the water doesn’t go stagnant while sitting in there for 3days.

I’m not able to do mixing and filling and water changes and clean up etc all in one day so I do water change on Monday, refill 32g (probably about 25-28g since I don’t fill all the way) on Tuesday, and then water change Friday, refill Sat.
I just wasn’t sure if it sitting out 3 days was bad for some reason or another.
 

coralbandit

Member
Mixing and prepping is fine .I got 4 brutes ! I bubble ,heat or have powerhead in most .
I mix my tap and RO together on the spot .It is always the same ratio since I always want the same number TDS ..
I have worked it out for me where I am 3 parts RO 1 part tap and that gets me 100. I would loose my mind if I did not have my TDS meter though ..
I have a spare in case but really will do water changes without checking until inches from being done ..I am that close usually !
I shoot for 100 and get 94-105 on average without testing so that is close enough for me !
 
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Blondeath

Member
coralbandit said:
Mixing and prepping is fine .I got 4 brutes ! I bubble ,heat or have powerhead in most .
I mix my tap and RO together on the spot .It is always the same ratio since I always want the same number TDS ..
I have worked it out for me where I am 3 parts RO 1 part tap and that gets me 100. I would loose my mind if I did not have my TDS meter though ..
I have a spare in case but really will do water changes without checking until inches from being done ..I am that close usually !
I shoot for 100 and get 94-105 on average without testing so that is close enough for me !
Thank you for all your help and sorry for so many questions !
I ordered the TDS meter you linked and am waiting for it to arrive. Once I have it I’ll check the tap and the RO (once it’s set up). And go from there!

coralbandit said:
Mixing and prepping is fine .I got 4 brutes ! I bubble ,heat or have powerhead in most .
I mix my tap and RO together on the spot .It is always the same ratio since I always want the same number TDS ..
I have worked it out for me where I am 3 parts RO 1 part tap and that gets me 100. I would loose my mind if I did not have my TDS meter though ..
I have a spare in case but really will do water changes without checking until inches from being done ..I am that close usually !
I shoot for 100 and get 94-105 on average without testing so that is close enough for me !
Do you have your RO system hooked up under a kitchen sink and also use it for drinking water? If you do is there a way to have a line going for drinking water and a separate one to go into my brute when I need to refill it?

when you do spilt your tap and ro water, how do you go about measuring it? Do you use smaller buckets and then pour them into the brute? I know you said you eyeball it now because you’ve gotten so good at it but when you started out how did you go about measuring ?

Alright t
coralbandit said:
Mixing and prepping is fine .I got 4 brutes ! I bubble ,heat or have powerhead in most .
I mix my tap and RO together on the spot .It is always the same ratio since I always want the same number TDS ..
I have worked it out for me where I am 3 parts RO 1 part tap and that gets me 100. I would loose my mind if I did not have my TDS meter though ..
I have a spare in case but really will do water changes without checking until inches from being done ..I am that close usually !
I shoot for 100 and get 94-105 on average without testing so that is close enough for me !
The water coming out of the tap is 350. And my RO water is 13. I’m waiting for the exact tds meter that you listed to get here still. The one I currently am using is the same brand but it’s not the one you listed. There must’ve been a mix up with Amazon shipping the correct one. This one only has two buttons instead of the three.
So next is to figure out how to best measure and what ratio...!
Also need to figure out the best way to go about switching my two current tanks over without killing my fish and plants

With current TDS meter.
Tap: 350 TDS, GH 20, KH 15, ph 8.3
RO: 13 TDS, GH 1-2, KH 3, ph 7.0
 

coralbandit

Member
I move fish from 350 to 100 in a normal acclimation of 20-30 minutes and then they breed !
Your water [both tap and RO] are identical to mine except the KH and GH from tap .
1 quart tap to 3-4 quarts RO should get you real close to 100 TDS.
I "T" my ro to my brute where it has a float valve and fills till it is full.
I mix in smaller buckets.I have quart paint mixing containers, 1 ,2.5 and 5 g buckets ..
I have made my water mix at 100 so long I only test for fun .I call it play the game .I am always within 5 points one way or the other ..
You need to decide what your target number is [mine is 100 for the rams ] and then start using that and watching to see if you guessed right ..
 
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Blondeath

Member
coralbandit said:
I move fish from 350 to 100 in a normal acclimation of 20-30 minutes and then they breed !
Your water [both tap and RO] are identical to mine except the KH and GH from tap .
1 quart tap to 3-4 quarts RO should get you real close to 100 TDS.
I "T" my ro to my brute where it has a float valve and fills till it is full.
I mix in smaller buckets.I have quart paint mixing containers, 1 ,2.5 and 5 g buckets ..
I have made my water mix at 100 so long I only test for fun .I call it play the game .I am always within 5 points one way or the other ..
You need to decide what your target number is [mine is 100 for the rams ] and then start using that and watching to see if you guessed right ..
Do you have an issue with the water you put in your brutes getting slimy? The airline in there is slimy and so is the heater. I’m not sure what the issue is
 

coralbandit

Member
Happens all the time .The brute itself will need a wipe down every now and then [2-3 weeks ?] .
I use a white paper towel to get the brown slime out .
Ready? That's the junk in your water ! I filter my water before and get sludge [over 5 years with the brutes now ] .
You will want water filters before you are done learning about water ..Whether for you or your tank most every ones water who is not on a private well is pretty bad [hence the need for treatments [chlorine and now even chloramine as it last longer [your water is even worse !]]..
Likely most of it is just sediment but ?
 

kered

Member
Try seachem replenish, its made specifically to remineralize reverse osmosis water.

oops, I didn't realize there was a second page of replies when I posted.
 
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Blondeath

Member
coralbandit said:
Happens all the time .The brute itself will need a wipe down every now and then [2-3 weeks ?] .
I use a white paper towel to get the brown slime out .
Ready? That's the junk in your water ! I filter my water before and get sludge [over 5 years with the brutes now ] .
You will want water filters before you are done learning about water ..Whether for you or your tank most every ones water who is not on a private well is pretty bad [hence the need for treatments [chlorine and now even chloramine as it last longer [your water is even worse !]]..
Likely most of it is just sediment but ?
Alright hopefully you see this!
I’m ready to start getting my cories tank to the correct tds. Now that the busy holidays are over.
Current stats.

Tap: 360tds, 8.5ph
Ro: 17tds, 6.6ph
Tank: 382tds, 8.4ph

50/50mix: 194tds, 8.3ph

I haven’t been able to find any info on tds for cories I’m going to continue searching.
Do you recommend I just change all the water at once and float them again to the temp and then plop them? Or should I do things slowly? How slowly?
The ph didn’t change much when mixed with the RO, but I’m hoping just having a lower tds will be better for them? What do you think? I’d like to get the tds in the tank correct and better before finishing any stocking for it.
 

coralbandit

Member
Blondeath said:
The ph didn’t change much when mixed with the RO, but I’m hoping just having a lower tds will be better for them? What do you think? I’d like to get the tds in the tank correct and better before finishing any stocking for it.
That is funny huh since you know the water you added is very different through your TDS reading huh ??
You are already on my team for this .You almost cut your TDS in half and only dropped .2 pH ….
I would make water changes with just ro until you hit the number you choose .
I think [off the top of my head ] that 200 is a great number to start with ..
The main reason I advocate TDS is because like you when I mix RO and tap the other parameters do not show a change that I think safely reflects what is happening .
Believe it or not their are keepers on this site with a TDS of 50 right out of their tap !
I try not to take any of my fish under 100 unless they are known super soft water fish .
 

mattgirl

Member
coralbandit said:
Believe it or not their are keepers on this site with a TDS of 50 right out of their tap !
I try not to take any of my fish under 100 unless they are known super soft water fish .
or less My fish lived and even bred (albino corys, Zebra Danios) in my 21 TDS tap water. I had no idea it was that low until I decided to try moving from silk/plastic to real plants. The real plants weren't happy with my water. My fish (corys, plecos, danios and various tetras) seemed to be happy and healthy at the super low TDS number. I keep my tanks up to somewhere around 100 now. Thankfully both plants and fish seem to be thriving at that number.

Thank you for helping me with understanding more about TDS numbers
 
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Blondeath

Member
coralbandit said:
That is funny huh since you know the water you added is very different through your TDS reading huh ??
You are already on my team for this .You almost cut your TDS in half and only dropped .2 pH ….
I would make water changes with just ro until you hit the number you choose .
I think [off the top of my head ] that 200 is a great number to start with ..
The main reason I advocate TDS is because like you when I mix RO and tap the other parameters do not show a change that I think safely reflects what is happening .
Believe it or not their are keepers on this site with a TDS of 50 right out of their tap !
I try not to take any of my fish under 100 unless they are known super soft water fish .
yes haha.
Matt girl was saying the same thing on a separate post. So if I did a 10% water change with just RO tomorrow (my normal water change day, but I usually do 80%) then on Friday do another 10% change with RO. And just continue doing that until I hit the right number? Does that sound about right?

coralbandit said:
That is funny huh since you know the water you added is very different through your TDS reading huh ??
You are already on my team for this .You almost cut your TDS in half and only dropped .2 pH ….
I would make water changes with just ro until you hit the number you choose .
I think [off the top of my head ] that 200 is a great number to start with ..
The main reason I advocate TDS is because like you when I mix RO and tap the other parameters do not show a change that I think safely reflects what is happening .
Believe it or not their are keepers on this site with a TDS of 50 right out of their tap !
I try not to take any of my fish under 100 unless they are known super soft water fish .
Do you aI'm for 100 and then add prime or ferts or whatever? And at what point in tds numbers do you change the water again?

I think I’m going to be aiming for the 130tds range because at a mix of 66% and 33% I have a kh of 8 and a gh of 10. Which is better than what the tanks are at now which is a kh of 20-21 and a gh of 23-24. The ph will be at 8.0 to start but after sitting out 24 hours it’s at 8.2

Blondeath said:
I think I’m going to be aiming for the 130tds range because at a mix of 66% and 33% I have a kh of 8 and a gh of 10. Which is better than what the tanks are at now which is a kh of 20-21 and a gh of 23-24. The ph will be at 7.8 to start but after sitting out 24 hours it’s at 8.0
So because the ph changes .2 do I need to age the mixture of water before water changes?
 

coralbandit

Member
I don't add ferts to any of my tanks ..
My water I mix is prepped in a 32 g brute [both tap and RO] so no prime even for me with the mix .
I change water as often as possible .I use no test nor have a TDS number that tells me to change water .
I change water more then most . IMO that is why my fish breed while others just exist ? What do I know though ..
The 66/33 sounds like a good mix . I like those numbers..
 

mattgirl

Member
coralbandit said:
I change water more then most . IMO that is why my fish breed while others just exist ? What do I know though ..
When I grow up I want to be just like you When some folks are trying to get by with the least amount of water changing as possible you and I both know or are pretty sure nothing in this hobby is more important to the health of our fish than fresh clean water. Your success with breeding is proof of that. I have to attribute the total lack of diseases rearing their ugly heads in my tanks to it.

I don't change as much as you do but I am usually changing one or another of my tanks almost daily. I am retired though so have plenty of time to do it.
 
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Blondeath

Member
mattgirl said:
When I grow up I want to be just like you When some folks are trying to get by with the least amount of water changing as possible you and I both know or are pretty sure nothing in this hobby is more important to the health of our fish than fresh clean water. Your success with breeding is proof of that. I have to attribute the total lack of diseases rearing their ugly heads in my tanks to it.

I don't change as much as you do but I am usually changing one or another of my tanks almost daily. I am retired though so have plenty of time to do it.
I’d agree! Water change water change water change. I had been changing both my tanks every 3-4 days up until about a month and a half ago I had a rib that was dislodged and I finally got that fixed and then yesterday they finally figured out the rest of the pain was coming from a vertebrae that was popped out of place! So hopefully in a few weeks from now I’ll be 100% again and back to water changes more than just 1 time a week.


coralbandit said:
I don't add ferts to any of my tanks ..
My water I mix is prepped in a 32 g brute [both tap and RO] so no prime even for me with the mix .
I change water as often as possible .I use no test nor have a TDS number that tells me to change water .
I change water more then most . IMO that is why my fish breed while others just exist ? What do I know though ..
The 66/33 sounds like a good mix . I like those numbers..
okay last week was my first time changing water with unprimed water it was super scary lol. But I let it gas off the chlorine for 48hrs just to make extra sure. I do use ferts since I have tons of plants which I’m realizing now are completely stunted in growth probably due to the insane kh values of my water. Well everything except my pearl weed is stunted. And all of my duckweed and salvinia just die off. I’ve bought duckweed 3 times now and it’s all died...

I’m totally terrified to change the water in my tanks today with just RO! But I’m only doing a 10% today. It’s still extremely nerve wracking
 

mattgirl

Member
Blondeath said:
I’m totally terrified to change the water in my tanks today with just RO! But I’m only doing a 10% today. It’s still extremely nerve wracking
I can understand your fear but you should be fine. This is why I recommended very small changes each time. Fish can handle changes but they have to be done very slowly to allow for acclimation. We always seem to fear something we don't totally understand or have never done before.
 

coralbandit

Member
I top off with straight RO and if I need to get numbers back down then I add more RO.
Water going through ro unit has nothing in it like chlorine ..Your carbon block in the unit removes chlorine .
I have a chlorine test kit .Simple thing .10ml water and 3 drops .If it turns yellow at all there is chlorine ..
You can use prime safely with ro and your tap still .
For figuring your ferts just test before you install them and again after so you know what impact they had .
 
  • Thread Starter

Blondeath

Member
coralbandit said:
I top off with straight RO and if I need to get numbers back down then I add more RO.
Water going through ro unit has nothing in it like chlorine ..Your carbon block in the unit removes chlorine .
I have a chlorine test kit .Simple thing .10ml water and 3 drops .If it turns yellow at all there is chlorine ..
You can use prime safely with ro and your tap still .
For figuring your ferts just test before you install them and again after so you know what impact they had .
Yes the carbon removes the chlorine from the ro but the tap still as chlorine. I haven’t done any ro yet.
I’m going to have to set up a T from the RO to go to my brute so it can fill to 66% and then add the 33% tap. Otherwise it’s all going to be too hard on my back. Today I’m doing a regular water change with tap as usual. Then tomorrow I’m going to siphon 10% out of the tank and add it back as RO. Like you said do that every other day ish until the numbers get to a good number. But once it comes time to do an actual water change (like 80% next Wednesday) what should I do then? Or skip that and just keep doing the small water changes?
 

coralbandit

Member
When you do large water changes just match what the tank is at .
I really think you can switch them pretty quickly ..2-3 water changes would be fine IMO .
It doesn't have to be super slow .
I actually move my rams from 350 to 100 in hours ..
 
  • Thread Starter

Blondeath

Member
coralbandit said:
When you do large water changes just match what the tank is at .
I really think you can switch them pretty quickly ..2-3 water changes would be fine IMO .
It doesn't have to be super slow .
I actually move my rams from 350 to 100 in hours ..
But wouldn’t it be a bigger deal since I’m changing the gh and kh from 19kh and 23gh down to 8kh and 10gh?

do you keep your rams in regular tap and move them to the mix just to breed?
 

coralbandit

Member
Blondeath said:
Do you aI'm for 100 and then add prime or ferts or whatever? And at what point in tds numbers do you change the water again?
Blondeath said:
do you keep your rams in regular tap and move them to the mix just to breed?
Exactly ! I raise my rams in my tap from 2 months old but switch them back for breeding .
Sometimes I just take them from one tank to the other !
I can't say this is right or wrong but I always look at it like I am changing them to the 'better' so slow is not as important as if I was taking them to 'less favorable' conditions ..
Nothing wrong with going slow to be safe ,but you don't need to worry or drag it out IMO .
 

kered

Member
How do you know what the tap water tds is made up of? is it all calcium or maybe all magnesium or a mix of the 2 and others like phosphate, silicates even nitrates in any percentage combination?
working with specific TDS is one thing, when taking RO water at 0 tds and adding minerals like saltyshrimp to a specific tds, you know exactly what it is. But taking tap water and diluting it with RO water to 100 tds you still do not know what it consists of, it could be any combination of things, good or bad so tds cannot be used unless you have had it analized in a lab the day you use it.
100 tds could be 60%calcium and 40% magnesium but could also be 40% calcium, 10% magnesium, 10% copper, 10% lead 5% arsenic and the remaindering 25% nitrates. Both give 100 tds, are they both good?
 

Drewbacca

Member
I have a 10 gallon shrimp tank at my work. I use RO/DI to get 2 gallons of 0 TDS water. I then remineralize up to about 150 with Saltyshrimp GH/KH+. I put in an air stone and a heater and let it sit out for 24-48 hours and by the time I’m ready to put it in, the TDS is up to 200. I then do a 10% water change whenever my tank TDS rises above 250. My GH is about 11 and my KH is 4, which is ok for my shrimp and snails. The only weird thing is that my pH seems unaffected. It was 7.8 using just tap water and remains 7.8 with the RO/DI system.
 

kered

Member
Making RO water usually has about 6.8 to 7ph but adding saltyshrimp raises the ph to the optimum level, mine goes to about 7.3.
As you knew what your tds was/is and its makeup you then know when it gets to 250 you have something not wanted in there and do a water change to get it out.
that's how I do it too.
But when you start with unknown ingredients that make up your tds its not the same as its just a number
 

mattgirl

Member
I think but can't know for sure what makes up the TDS in our individual tap water depends on where we live. In my case my water comes from a lake fed by streams and one fair size river that runs through mostly a granite type rock and quartz. There is no industry in any of the areas it runs through to get to the lake. The river and streams run through mostly forested land. I have to think that is why my TDS from the tap is 21. There are very few minerals being picked up along the way. I will agree that I don't know what minerals makes up the 21.

Knowing the origin of the source water will help determine what ones TDS is made up of. Not an exact science but one can get a fairly close estimation.
 

kered

Member
At only 21 tds there is not much of anything in it same as mine at 35-38
 
  • Thread Starter

Blondeath

Member
What would a stable kh and gh be? My RO water has a ph of 7.4 and a 2kh and 3gh at the 24 and 48 hour mark. I could do all RO but I don’t think it’s necessary. When I could do 2/3 and 1/3
 
  • Thread Starter

Blondeath

Member
Hey so my Betta tank is now down to 153tds. And my cories are down to 176tds. Yay. All the fishes have been much more active since the tds got to 250.
 
  • Thread Starter

Blondeath

Member
Alrighty my Betta tank is sitting at 130tds and my cories are at 137. I’m not sure I can get the cories much closer without going under 130 which I don’t think I want to do.
But yay. My fishies are so active and happy acting.
 
  • Thread Starter

Blondeath

Member
okay for poos and giggles let’s say I was going to breed discus (which I’d never ever do, just not my kinda fish) but for the sake of the convo... I wouldn’t be able to do that because my RO water in its purest form is a ph of 7.4 or 7.6 I can’t quite tell. Even though the kh and gh is 2 and the tds is 17. The ph is still alkaline. Not acidic.

How would something like, breeding an acidic water fish happen if the lowest your ph will go, and be stable, is 7.4?
 

Drewbacca

Member
Blondeath said:
okay for poos and giggles let’s say I was going to breed discus (which I’d never ever do, just not my kinda fish) but for the sake of the convo... I wouldn’t be able to do that because my RO water in its purest form is a ph of 7.4 or 7.6 I can’t quite tell. Even though the kh and gh is 2 and the tds is 17. The ph is still alkaline. Not acidic.

How would something like, breeding an acidic water fish happen if the lowest your ph will go, and be stable, is 7.4?
You can add things like peat to lower the pH. Or, using CO2 to bring your pH down can work. My tap on its own has a pH of 7.9, but I use a pH controller hooked to my CO2 to bring it down to 7 during the day. Controllers aren’t cheap though.
 

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