Resurrected Freshwater Tank Ph Very Low & Ammonia Problem

sfsamm
  • #41
Keep us posted! I'm glad it's all smoothing out for you!
 
Jenoli42
  • Thread Starter
  • #42
Keep us posted! I'm glad it's all smoothing out for you!

Update. Today's parameters:

Ammonia 0ppm
Nitrite 0ppm
Nitrate 5-10ppm

All those parameters steady for 36 hours.

But..

pH 6.8 (down slightly from yesterday)
kH back to 1º (grrrrr!)
gH same at barely 3º

So, I added 6.5L of water (had left room last change for this... thinking ahead) with less than 1/4 dose of Equilibrium (should move gH up by 0.35 & less than 1/8 dose of Alkaline Buffer (should move kH up by 0.35-0.375... no idea what it will do to pH).

Any idea why my kH came down so quickly by half?? I did *nothing* to the tank yesterday except adding prime (just in case) & feeding fish (who are finally eating daily again!)
 
sfsamm
  • #43
That is the thing with a low kH, when it's buffering the water it'll keep sinking as it's used up. Keep testing daily and keep it up. Next water change add water at 3 or 4° of kH. The added water will be higher but will mix with the existing giving the tank a smaller boost to the kH and raising the actual kH of the tank just a bit more than it was. It might come down to smaller twice weekly water changes to maintain for a while until everything stabilizes.
 
Jenoli42
  • Thread Starter
  • #44
That is the thing with a low kH, when it's buffering the water it'll keep sinking as it's used up. Keep testing daily and keep it up. Next water change add water at 3 or 4° of kH. The added water will be higher but will mix with the existing giving the tank a smaller boost to the kH and raising the actual kH of the tank just a bit more than it was. It might come down to smaller twice weekly water changes to maintain for a while until everything stabilizes.

I'm calculating on the basis of raising the whole tank up max of half degree each time like you said. I'll test shortly to see how it went.

Interestingly, our turtle tank uses up 1 whole calcium thingy a week or 10 days, so I guess it's the same principle for kH
 
sfsamm
  • #45
Interestingly, our turtle tank uses up 1 whole calcium thingy a week or 10 days, so I guess it's the same principle for kH
Yep its just the same concept the more acidic the water the faster it'll use up those minerals, both kH and gH.
Did you get your oyster grit into the filter or add the cuttlefish bone yet?
 
Jenoli42
  • Thread Starter
  • #46
Yep its just the same concept the more acidic the water the faster it'll use up those minerals, both kH and gH.
Did you get your oyster grit into the filter or add the cuttlefish bone yet?

Yes had both those sorted for nearly a week thanks to you & another members' advice! Might add another mesh bag of oyster grit in the other side of the filter. The danged cuttlebone hasn't sunk yet so I've lodged it in one of the decorations. The pleco likes it.
 
Jenoli42
  • Thread Starter
  • #47
Oh and I'm passing forward your advice to another initiate whose pH is 5.2!!
That person's pH Variable up to 6 so I've suggested the kH & gH test because I suspect that person's water is soft like mine. 5.2 from the tap is ridiculous!!
 
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sfsamm
  • #48
the floating bone! Sinking those things drives me nuts sometimes! I've wedged them into all sorts of things, put rocks on them, crammed them into the filter, etc I don't think you can make them sink till their are darn good and ready lol

I'm glad we were able to get you worked out! And I don't know what I'd do with 5.2 at the tap but definitely find some wild fish for it I've never had the luxury of an epically low pH, someday I'll invest for it. That's a pretty brutal pH 5.2 though, wow!
 
Jenoli42
  • Thread Starter
  • #49

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the floating bone! Sinking those things drives me nuts sometimes! I've wedged them into all sorts of things, put rocks on them, crammed them into the filter, etc I don't think you can make them sink till their are darn good and ready lol
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Here's my cuttlebone weight... and the smaller piece escaped apparently... again!
 
Jenoli42
  • Thread Starter
  • #50
update: after today's alkaline buffer & Equilibrium treatment, here's relevant parameters:

pH 7.0
kH 2º
gH between 3º & 4º

Once I get the kH relatively stable around 3º, I'll feel like we can get a few replacement fish. I'm already planning which ones lolz
 
sfsamm
  • #51
Yay! And the fish left handled the change up pretty well I imagine? With the cycle settling back out and the swings getting minimized I'd imagine they are starting to adjust pretty well?
 
Jenoli42
  • Thread Starter
  • #52
Yay! And the fish left handled the change up pretty well I imagine? With the cycle settling back out and the swings getting minimized I'd imagine they are starting to adjust pretty well?

Yes! They're cruising around almost back to normal & Curious instead of skittish again !! Yusss..

Hey, I know I've asked you heaps, but I'm curious about your thoughts on this:

So in another thread, thanks to practical advice, I've determined that the gravel in my QT lifts my tap water pH. It fizzes a little bit with vinegar, too.

Because my tap water has low kH as you know, the lift has varied: 6.5 without gravel, with gravel increased over 24 hour periods to 7.0 to 7.2 to 7.6!

What's your view of adding some to the main tank to regulate pH if I'm using Alkaline Buffer etc?
 
sfsamm
  • #53
If it works that well in your qt tank then there's no reason not to try it. I'd definitely take it slow and add small amounts to start just so it doesn't shoot up too far too fast. I'd try it. Keep it in the current to start, maybe a cup or so in the bag instead of oyster grit and see what happens, might work better? I'd do it when you have a couple days off so you can watch for stress and check parameters like morning and night that first couple days.
All those buffering substrates eventually run out, whether they are buffering up or down. People often use some crushed coral or argonite substrate in their filter for that purpose. Depending on the water it'll need replaced every couple weeks to a couple months. At least when adding to the filter. And if you have to do a real large water change you'll want to remember to age the water with the substrate over a bubbler so it's not a huge pH shock when the new water goes in. Or of course add your buffers to match what the tank was. If it works, it's a lot easier to maintain than the chemical methods too.
 
Jenoli42
  • Thread Starter
  • #54
If it works that well in your qt tank then there's no reason not to try it. I'd definitely take it slow and add small amounts to start just so it doesn't shoot up too far too fast. I'd try it. Keep it in the current to start, maybe a cup or so in the bag instead of oyster grit and see what happens, might work better? I'd do it when you have a couple days off so you can watch for stress and check parameters like morning and night that first couple days.
All those buffering substrates eventually run out, whether they are buffering up or down. People often use some crushed coral or argonite substrate in their filter for that purpose. Depending on the water it'll need replaced every couple weeks to a couple months. At least when adding to the filter. And if you have to do a real large water change you'll want to remember to age the water with the substrate over a bubbler so it's not a huge pH shock when the new water goes in. Or of course add your buffers to match what the tank was. If it works, it's a lot easier to maintain than the chemical methods too.
That makes so much sense! #genius. Testing in a bag! Of course! Thank you!!
 
Jenoli42
  • Thread Starter
  • #55
Ok! Third day in a row where my ammonia in the main tank is 0ppm! Nitrates are up a bit more (between 10 & 20ppm) so as long as they stay around that level, sweet.

Having said that, pH dropped again down to 6.7 & kH was barely 2º

I did a second small mesh bag of oyster grit & put in the filter. I also cut a new pad of filter floss wool & set it on top of my old thin grubby pad to start seeding. Gonna leave that for about 3 weeks I reckon before slowly cutting portions of the old pad away every fortnight.

My plan is to check pH & kH tomorrow. Assuming they don't move or decrease again, I'll do another dose of Alkaline Buffer to try to reach my target of a solid 3º- 4º - slowly, won't do in 1 hit of course.

I'm trying NOT to buy yet another chemical like Neutral Regulator or Acid Buffer & just regulate pH using the kH (And gravel once I add that to the mix... which I'll consider once I've hit & maintained the right kH if pH still fluctuates).

On the right track?
 
sfsamm
  • #56
Sure sounds like you're on the right track! I am curious to see how the gravel works for you.
 
Jenoli42
  • Thread Starter
  • #57
Sure sounds like you're on the right track! I am curious to see how the gravel works for you.

Me too. Might do a bag tomorrow depending on readings... I'm feeling impatient because our rainbows want friends in the tank and so do I lolz
 
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Jenoli42
  • Thread Starter
  • #58
Once again, ammonia steady at 0ppm. I swear my nitrite test is a dud because it's NEVER shown nitrite despite having healthy nitrate readings...

Good news is after adding the second bag of oyster grit & a second whole cuttlebone, my pH is steady back up at 6.9 and kH steady at a solid 2º

My partner thinks we should get an additional second filter for the main tank before restocking. But the lfs said that could cause a minI cycle or ammonia/ nitrite spikes again. Do you agree?

If so, can we use a ridiculously grunty external filter on our tiny 21L QT to avoid yet another cycle for our fish in the main tank?
 
Jenoli42
  • Thread Starter
  • #59
Once again, ammonia steady at 0ppm. I swear my nitrite test is a dud because it's NEVER shown nitrite despite having healthy nitrate readings...

Good news is after adding the second bag of oyster grit & a second whole cuttlebone, my pH is steady back up at 6.9 and kH steady at a solid 2º

My partner thinks we should get an additional second filter for the main tank before restocking. But the lfs said that could cause a minI cycle or ammonia/ nitrite spikes again. Do you agree?

If so, can we use a ridiculously grunty external filter on our tiny 21L QT to avoid yet another cycle for our fish in the main tank?

Still debating the external filter question with the family, but the good news again today is my tank is stable for almost a week now including at 6.9!
My is low at 2º but steady. My finally hit 5º which is about where I want it. I used no more chemicals besides first two treatments, just an extra bag of oyster grit & another .

The trick will be maintaining stable results after my first normal weekly 25% change tomorrow with treatments... & hopefully bringing the kH up to 3-4º over next fortnight.

Oh & Bowie & Big Gay Al came out this morning when they saw me for food & came to surface!!! But after eating the flakes they seemed to spit is all back out...odd... the flakes were mostly small...
 
sfsamm
  • #60
So the additional filtration is never a bad idea. I over filter all my tanks, the more media the more space for your good stuff to grow! Example my 55 gallon tank has am eheim 2217 canister plus a bio wheel hang on back filter for a 50 and also an 850gph wave maker for the plants since the canister doesn't put a lot of flow through the lower levels of the tank for plants. So essentially my tanks is circulating at least 1200 gph and about 700gph through the filters. I'm picking up another hob for more pothos (a plant that likes wet feet and eats nitrAtes well) and some dense extra media for the other side of the tank when I get around to it as well.
 
sfsamm
  • #61
What size tank and filter do you have? I scanned back through and don't see where it was mentioned lol
 
Jenoli42
  • Thread Starter
  • #62
So the additional filtration is never a bad idea. I over filter all my tanks, the more media the more space for your good stuff to grow! Example my 55 gallon tank has am eheim 2217 canister plus a bio wheel hang on back filter for a 50 and also an 850gph wave maker for the plants since the canister doesn't put a lot of flow through the lower levels of the tank for plants. So essentially my tanks is circulating at least 1200 gph and about 700gph through the filters. I'm picking up another hob for more pothos (a plant that likes wet feet and eats nitrAtes well) and some dense extra media for the other side of the tank when I get around to it as well.

Excellent to know! Does starting a new filter make the tank cycle again? And can I avoid that by seeding the new filter media?

What size tank and filter do you have? I scanned back through and don't see where it was mentioned lol

Just the one that came built into our aqua one AR850 tank...
 
sfsamm
  • #63
You can leave the old filter where it is and just put the new one on the tank as well. If you are going to remove the old filter what I do is this: let both run for a month or so and then stuff some media (as much as I can without messing up the filter flow) from the one being removed into the one you'll keep.

Thing with the extra filtration and multiple filters is if a filter quits then you're not stuck cycling from scratch, minI cycle probably. I, having multiple tanks, have some where flow rates must be low or bioload is tiny, space is limited whatever reason so I only run minimal filtration. Because I have extra wherever I can, if something quits, always pull media from somewhere else or if I want to start a new tank or run cycled in a qt or whatever I've always got media to use. I never have to worry about cycling a tank or losing a cycle somewhere because it's just not that big a deal for me. Plus I keep seachem stability on hand and just dose it if I'm uneasy for some reason. Example : When I pull substrate from my 55 and change it sometime this spring, I'll add stability just to err on the side of caution since that's a pretty dramatic change even with all of everything running for media on it.

And that aqua one 850 on a 165 l tank looks to be about 1000 l/h which isn't under filtered. I just did a brief bit of looking into it since I was unfamiliar but it should actually be quite a decent filter. As for media space though I can't tell for sure it does look a bit smaller than I would want so adding another filter would take care of that if it's the case. Looks like a fairly nice looking tank too, myself or probably look for a smaller canister to keep the clean profile of the tank. I'm big fan of eheim or fluval, but eheim beats fluval on bang for the buck hands down in my opinion. Even just a small one like the 2213 gallons would more than double your media space where as a larger one such as the 2215 or 2217 would add some extra flow through the tank if you wanted it and still wouldn't be too much for the rainbows. eheim comes with a spray bar too so you won't hardly see any extra equipment looking at the tank, just the intake tube
 
Jenoli42
  • Thread Starter
  • #64
You can leave the old filter where it is and just put the new one on the tank as well. If you are going to remove the old filter what I do is this: let both run for a month or so and then stuff some media (as much as I can without messing up the filter flow) from the one being removed into the one you'll keep.

Thing with the extra filtration and multiple filters is if a filter quits then you're not stuck cycling from scratch, minI cycle probably. I, having multiple tanks, have some where flow rates must be low or bioload is tiny, space is limited whatever reason so I only run minimal filtration. Because I have extra wherever I can, if something quits, always pull media from somewhere else or if I want to start a new tank or run cycled in a qt or whatever I've always got media to use. I never have to worry about cycling a tank or losing a cycle somewhere because it's just not that big a deal for me. Plus I keep seachem stability on hand and just dose it if I'm uneasy for some reason. Example : When I pull substrate from my 55 and change it sometime this spring, I'll add stability just to err on the side of caution since that's a pretty dramatic change even with all of everything running for media on it.

Ok so just adding a new one doesn't cause a BB crash or ammonia spike? If not, that's soon on the purchase list & I absolutely trust your recommendation. You've been awesome helping us through this, I so appreciate it.
 
sfsamm
  • #65
Nope no crash at all just more places for bb to start colonizing. They get to move from the crowded city to the spacious suburbs.
 
Jenoli42
  • Thread Starter
  • #66
When I pull substrate from my 55 and change it sometime this spring, I'll add stability just to err on the side of caution since that's a pretty dramatic change even with all of everything running for media on it.

About that... if I wanted to change gravel for purely aesthetic reasons, how likely is a minI cycle? I won't if it's dodgy. It's just that the kuhlI loaches prefer smaller grit & we like the look of darker gravel...
 
sfsamm
  • #67
About that... if I wanted to change gravel for purely aesthetic reasons, how likely is a minI cycle? I won't if it's dodgy. It's just that the kuhlI loaches prefer smaller grit & we like the look of darker gravel...
I completely gut tanks sometimes just because I've changed my mind. Sometimes it takes a day or two to get back together and I drop my media in a bucket with a bubbler under it and tank water and feed it Ammonia (no suffectants no fragrances) if I'm past 24 hours on the rebuild. And have never had a problem when everything is back together.

I've also never gutted any of my large tanks before, it wasn't ever worth the hassle. So since it's quite a large volume of potential BB and I'm going to do it all at once due to the reason of the change and my sanity lol.

Reason for my decision if your interested lol... My Synodontis catfish, even after 8 months and a really throughly cleaning of the substrate prior to setup, are constantly STILL making dust storms, and I'm completely over dismantling my canister every month to clean out the mud and it's starting to affect the pump or something in the canister as my flow rate is reduced and I can't quite get it back to where it should be. I don't want to be repairing my canister every few months, I'd rather just get something different that I can cap appropriately for the fish NOT to be making a mess with it. Plus side, my garden should be happy to have some high nutrient planted tank ferts this year
 
Jenoli42
  • Thread Starter
  • #68
Plus side, my garden should be happy to have some high nutrient planted tank ferts this year

Glad to know we're not the only ones who feed our gardens with all used tank water & waste!

Fair enough your rationale for changing! Reminds me of why we put a second filter in our red eared slider tank... to no avail though. Man those are messy creatures!

I assume you move fish to another of your tanks? We are addicted now. We want ALL THE TANKS. But I'm stoked just getting one right for now
 
sfsamm
  • #69
These fish will get some totes or bins of tank water and split up as necessary, they'd massacre my other tanks! lol Catfish would destroy any scaping and plants would be tore up from their dashing around smaller tanks and the Ctenopomas would eat the majority of my fish... I already learned the hard way that they will try to eat things that are too big and just mutilate the poor things to death. That lesson came from a emergency thought my tank sprung a leak disaster had to move fish quickly so 20 gallon tank of fish joined the 55, two hours later I noticed seemingly less fish and found 5 danios, 2 endlers and a platy all mutilated head first and dead with the little boogers stalking another endler to attempt to eat. Note to self NO more remotely torpedo shaped fish near them lol. And considering the synos are a good 7 inches each right now, I'd not trust them not to dine on something that wandered too closely either lol most fish are opportunistic and don't mind a nice meaty live meal even if they are generally not piscivores

But yeah when it's feasible to move to another tank for the time I'm remodeling one I absolutely do, it's a lot nicer to be able to take my time and not worry about fish stressing and jumping and all that nonsense.
 
Jenoli42
  • Thread Starter
  • #70
These fish will get some totes or bins of tank water and split up as necessary, they'd massacre my other tanks! lol Catfish would destroy any scaping and plants would be tore up from their dashing around smaller tanks and the Ctenopomas would eat the majority of my fish... I already learned the hard way that they will try to eat things that are too big and just mutilate the poor things to death. That lesson came from a emergency thought my tank sprung a leak disaster had to move fish quickly so 20 gallon tank of fish joined the 55, two hours later I noticed seemingly less fish and found 5 danios, 2 endlers and a platy all mutilated head first and dead with the little boogers stalking another endler to attempt to eat. Note to self NO more remotely torpedo shaped fish near them lol. And considering the synos are a good 7 inches each right now, I'd not trust them not to dine on something that wandered too closely either lol most fish are opportunistic and don't mind a nice meaty live meal even if they are generally not piscivores

But yeah when it's feasible to move to another tank for the time I'm remodeling one I absolutely do, it's a lot nicer to be able to take my time and not worry about fish stressing and jumping and all that nonsense.

Whoa! Now that's learning the hard way! I like the idea of buckets with tank water & airstone for short timeframes... excellent. We're thinking about putting sand in part of the tank for the loaches as I've seen other people in the forum have had success at doing... do you have tank photos anywhere I could admire? It sounds like you're actively improving & if you don't mind sharing it would be great to see your handiwork
 
sfsamm
  • #71
Pm sent
 
Jenoli42
  • Thread Starter
  • #72
Hmmmm. Without doing anything the pH is up slightly (either 7.0 or 7.2) and I suspect it's the second bag of oyster grit. Everything else exactly the same. So I think when I do my normal weekly 25% change today or tomorrow, I'll only use alkaline buffer not equilibrium given my gH is steady at 5º

I do want my kH to get to 3º or 4º

Tbh the reason I don't want to do the water change today is that Bowie & Big Gay Al both came up & followed my finger this morning & came to surface to eat & I hate freaking them out because I'll do a surface clean under the decorations & maybe vacuum a v small area. They just decided to trust me again! Lol
 
sfsamm
  • #73
They will get used to the water changes, now that they are feeling better and everything is getting to be stable they'll perk up more quickly each time. I do very large changes in all my tanks weekly, new fish often don't like it much to start but after a few weeks they get the hang of it and don't stress anymore. You're guys will get there too!
 
Jenoli42
  • Thread Starter
  • #74
They will get used to the water changes, now that they are feeling better and everything is getting to be stable they'll perk up more quickly each time. I do very large changes in all my tanks weekly, new fish often don't like it much to start but after a few weeks they get the hang of it and don't stress anymore. You're guys will get there too!

Well we did it today! Between 25-30% change. Only added alkaline buffer because my gH was up to 6º (That's up another 1º in 48 hours). I've taken out the second cuttlebone but left the second oyster grit.

Consistent readings again today before the change:

pH 7.2 (confident now that the slow steady increase of 0.1-0.3 per day is from the second oyster grit)
kH solid 2º again (hence the alkaline buffer to slowly raise to between 3º-4º)
Ammonia & nitrite 0ppm
Nitrate around 10ppm

So I'm confident or main tank is ready for re stocking. But because we're impatient, we bought fake jelly fish to watch.

20180113_114743.jpg
However our QT isn't cycled because nitrate stubbornly below 5 close to 0. Hence the seeding I told you about. Also our lfs is gonna give me some of their bionoods on the sly to seed it so we can get fish within the week.

Of course nz can't get the fish I planned so we're trying to source alternatives.

Hey, we're gonna make a sand area for our loaches & I'm considering getting a couple soft water live plants. I went onto another forum where they speak a totally alien language about planted aquariums so that was intimidating. Do you know anything about these plants or where I should look?
Java fern
Riccia
Anubias
Cabomba
 
sfsamm
  • #75
I do planted tanks yes but I've never had water as soft as yours. All the plants you listed though are generally easy plants. Best advice I have when starting with plants is if it dies and you loved it try again if it dies again try something else lol. Before my move Anacharis grew like a weed, since my move I can't keep it alive for anything! Well I guess kinda, I can kill it more slowly than before lol but it doesn't like my water here at all. Cryptocorynes I couldn't keep alive ever before and very much wanted to, they do awesome for me in this water, I always heard they were a soft water loving plant and my water here is much harder than before my move so I think it's just a matter of trying what you like until you find what works.

Java ferns and anubias feed in the water column so don't bury the rhizome, you can tie them to driftwood or stone or wedge them into a crack but be sure that rhizome has water flow Camboba and Riccia are stem plants so as they grow you can trim the tops and replant for more.

As for where to get them in nz I really can't recommend, I'm US but being super rural I order nearly everything online.
 
Jenoli42
  • Thread Starter
  • #76
You can leave the old filter where it is and just put the new one on the tank as well. If you are going to remove the old filter what I do is this: let both run for a month or so and then stuff some media (as much as I can without messing up the filter flow) from the one being removed into the one you'll keep.

Thing with the extra filtration and multiple filters is if a filter quits then you're not stuck cycling from scratch, minI cycle probably. I, having multiple tanks, have some where flow rates must be low or bioload is tiny, space is limited whatever reason so I only run minimal filtration. Because I have extra wherever I can, if something quits, always pull media from somewhere else or if I want to start a new tank or run cycled in a qt or whatever I've always got media to use. I never have to worry about cycling a tank or losing a cycle somewhere because it's just not that big a deal for me. Plus I keep seachem stability on hand and just dose it if I'm uneasy for some reason. Example : When I pull substrate from my 55 and change it sometime this spring, I'll add stability just to err on the side of caution since that's a pretty dramatic change even with all of everything running for media on it.

And that aqua one 850 on a 165 l tank looks to be about 1000 l/h which isn't under filtered. I just did a brief bit of looking into it since I was unfamiliar but it should actually be quite a decent filter. As for media space though I can't tell for sure it does look a bit smaller than I would want so adding another filter would take care of that if it's the case. Looks like a fairly nice looking tank too, myself or probably look for a smaller canister to keep the clean profile of the tank. I'm big fan of eheim or fluval, but eheim beats fluval on bang for the buck hands down in my opinion. Even just a small one like the 2213 gallons would more than double your media space where as a larger one such as the 2215 or 2217 would add some extra flow through the tank if you wanted it and still wouldn't be too much for the rainbows. eheim comes with a spray bar too so you won't hardly see any extra equipment looking at the tank, just the intake tube


Quick question. Found a 2213 used for $150. Pick up is 5 hours away but nevermind. Found a NEW Eheim compact 1000 pump for way less. Claims to be up to 1000L/hour. Do you believe the ad?
 
sfsamm
  • #77
Quick question. Found a 2213 used for $150. Pick up is 5 hours away but nevermind. Found a NEW Eheim compact 1000 pump for way less. Claims to be up to 1000L/hour. Do you believe the ad?
The eheim compact is just a circulation pump not a filter, it'll move the water around the tank more and that it often a good thing in planted tanks. The eheim 2213 is a canister filter and will provide additional filtration as well as flow.

1000l per hour seems completely feasible, my 55 gallon (208 l) has an eheim 2217, a Marineland bio wheel 200 plus a circulation pump that moves 864 gph so total circulation per hour is over 1300gph (6000 lph) I'm also working it into a heavily planted tank so with the depth getting great circulation through the bottom of the tank is challenging.

If you're looking for more filtration than the pump isn't going to be quite as useful as the 2213.
 
Jenoli42
  • Thread Starter
  • #78
The eheim compact is just a circulation pump not a filter, it'll move the water around the tank more and that it often a good thing in planted tanks. The eheim 2213 is a canister filter and will provide additional filtration as well as flow.

1000l per hour seems completely feasible, my 55 gallon (208 l) has an eheim 2217, a Marineland bio wheel 200 plus a circulation pump that moves 864 gph so total circulation per hour is over 1300gph (6000 lph) I'm also working it into a heavily planted tank so with the depth getting great circulation through the bottom of the tank is challenging.

If you're looking for more filtration than the pump isn't going to be quite as useful as the 2213.

Gah! I spent 45 minutes trying to compare the two products on Google last night wondering why it wasn't working to compare them feeling like I must be missing something ..

I only thought the compact was a filter because it came up on the search results for "ehiem filter" on the nz version of eBay..

Sorry of course you're quite right. Bought the 2213

Ok I'm not happy! I did the 25% water change day before yesterday. I vacuumed *gently* under about 25% of gravel & most of the surface. I used prime & alkaline buffer (2.7g).
Fish seemed fine before and after..

Later that day I took three single bio-noods from the big main tank to put into our tiny QT to help seed. THREE. that's it.

I was at 0 ammonia prior to the change. I waited 24 hours to re test.

Yesterday ammonia showed slightly green under certain lights/ angles. Max 0.25 but my partner said "you're hallucinating, it's 0"
I immediately put the three bio-noods back into the main tank & used prime just in case. Again, fish are fine.

Today it's definitely 0.25. Used prime. Fish still fine.

What caused the spike? Are my BB still so fragile that a small vacuum impacted their ability to eat ammonia? There's only 3 Fish in a 165L tank!

My pH has fluctuated a bit over the past 2 weeks as we bring up kH & gH using mostly oyster grit & the third dose of Alkaline Buffer... is that hurting our BB?

Do I need to return to 50% changes daily again or wait to see if BB recover? If tomorrow is 0.5 I'm start water changes again but I'm gutted tbh
 
sfsamm
  • #79
Don't panic. More than removing bb you likely stirred something up and bb hasn't caught up. It's part of having a newly cycled tank. You also have a very small bioload so tiny changes seem to have more of an impact. Continue doing what you're doing. I wouldn't think that you have lost any bb just stirred something up causing a spike.

Continue being consistent with monitoring the tank and don't panic at .5 Ammonia, do a regular water change rather than 50%, if it continues moving up do that 50% if it reaches up to 1ppm. Just use Prime daily while you wait for the BB to take care of it. You don't want to maintain such a precariously low BB that a light vacuum sets everything off kilter so let it catch up while you continue your routine. Don't not vacuum next time either fearing the spike, vacuum let it spike and feed the BB it'll catch up.

Treating bb like delicate little flowers and trying to preserve every single one just isn't feasible. Yes there's a bit in the substrate, a bit on the hard scape and even a bit in the water but not changing the water or not vacuuming or not cleaning off hardscape when needed isn't going to make for a good healthy tank lol just keep going and they'll get established in less conspicuous areas and you're routine will get established and everything will all catch up.

Now that said, as recently as it's started to settle for you I wouldn't say something has not disrupted it for completely certain, but my experience I believe it's just still getting leveled out. Kind of like doing a fishless cycle then adding fish, you can get a bit of a bump. Use Prime and try to wait it out over the next couple days to let bb colonize and catch up to process the Ammonia it's self.
 
Jenoli42
  • Thread Starter
  • #80
Don't panic. More than removing bb you likely stirred something up and bb hasn't caught up. It's part of having a newly cycled tank. You also have a very small bioload so tiny changes seem to have more of an impact. Continue doing what you're doing. I wouldn't think that you have lost any bb just stirred something up causing a spike.

Continue being consistent with monitoring the tank and don't panic at .5 Ammonia, do a regular water change rather than 50%, if it continues moving up do that 50% if it reaches up to 1ppm. Just use Prime daily while you wait for the BB to take care of it. You don't want to maintain such a precariously low BB that a light vacuum sets everything off kilter so let it catch up while you continue your routine. Don't not vacuum next time either fearing the spike, vacuum let it spike and feed the BB it'll catch up.

Treating bb like delicate little flowers and trying to preserve every single one just isn't feasible. Yes there's a bit in the substrate, a bit on the hard scape and even a bit in the water but not changing the water or not vacuuming or not cleaning off hardscape when needed isn't going to make for a good healthy tank lol just keep going and they'll get established in less conspicuous areas and you're routine will get established and everything will all catch up.

Now that said, as recently as it's started to settle for you I wouldn't say something has not disrupted it for completely certain, but my experience I believe it's just still getting leveled out. Kind of like doing a fishless cycle then adding fish, you can get a bit of a bump. Use Prime and try to wait it out over the next couple days to let bb colonize and catch up to process the Ammonia it's self.

Phew. Ok. Right. So! That eheim 2213 Will be here Thursday to help those lucky BB spread into the suburbs. I might borrow media from the algae & tannin tank coming this evening as well in the meantime.

Should I buy SeaChem stability? My only worry is pH fluctuations hurting them... so if I add more I'll just kill more?

Btw fish much happier in the higher pH & seem not to mind pH flux as much
 

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