Replacing Fluval Edge Hob With Canister And Lily Pipes... Can It Be Done?

TheBettaSushi
  • #1
Anyone out there with a fluval edge 6 gallon that has replaced their stock hob filter with a nano canister and minI lily pipes?

I was thinking about replacing mine to alleviate the harsh flow of a hob as baffling it only either deters the outflow in one direction, or when using a sponge on the outflow, leaves film on the surface. I did use a mesh on the outflow at one point but that didn’t help much either. Lowering the hob flow only leaves me to believe that it slows the turnover rate and doesn’t filter the entire amount of water in the tank.

I’d like to find a canister that will fit inside of the Fluval edge backing column but not sure which canister filter is good enough. I’d like a gph of at least 100 p/h as my Fluval (aquaclear 20) has the same turnover and even though there are dead spots in the front of the tank, my water parameters are fine.

I was also looking into the minI lily pipes intended for a betta but not sure if those will fit inside of the Fluval edge 6 gallon either.

If anyone has changed the filtration system of this tank, please let me know what you used and how you did it.

I am housing a plakat betta and a zebra nerite and I have live plants. My only problem with a hob is the current that it creates.

These were the pipes and canisters I was looking into. However, I’ve never used a canister filter before so I don’t know what brand is good.

Lily pipes:


Canister filters:




If there are better compact canister filters out there, please link them.

I’m trying to find something small to fit right into the Fluval edge back column where the chords are housed.

Thank you.
 
Advertisement
Cichlidude
  • #2
For a small tank like that all you need is a Marina S15 filter here. Self priming, full flow control.



Customize that filter here.

 
TheBettaSushi
  • Thread Starter
  • #3
For a small tank like that all you need is a Marina S15 filter here. Self priming, full flow control.



Customize that filter here.

That’s a hob filter and it definitely won’t fit inside a fluval edge. I’d rather keep my aquaclear 20 if I wanted to stay with a hob. Thanks though.
 
JenC
  • #4
I have no suggestions but am following the thread with interest. I also have the Edge 6 gallon and Aquaclear 20 with less than ideal circulation and dead spots.
 
TheBettaSushi
  • Thread Starter
  • #5
I have no suggestions but am following the thread with interest. I also have the Edge 6 gallon and Aquaclear 20 with less than ideal circulation and dead spots.
Such a beautiful tank with a lot of head aches and frustration that comes along with it! I hope that someone who has our tank but has modified it will answer for the both of us.
 
david1978
  • #6
What about this one?
 
Advertisement
TheBettaSushi
  • Thread Starter
  • #7
What about this one?
That's the one I was looking at. The gph is only 80 on that though so if I go with that, I may need to do pwc more frequently. Right now the one I have pumps 100 gph and I do water changes once every 7 days (except for the past month because I’ve been trying to eradicate microscopic detritus worms).

I have no suggestions but am following the thread with interest. I also have the Edge 6 gallon and Aquaclear 20 with less than ideal circulation and dead spots.
I found this thread online, however, I think the canister filter that was used is located on the outside of the tank compared to where I’d like to place it (inside the backing column where the hob filter is housed). Maybe it can help you though
 
david1978
  • #8
Canisters are more efficient then hob filters so you need less flow.
 
JenC
  • #9
I found this thread online, however, I think the canister filter that was used is located on the outside of the tank compared to where I’d like to place it (inside the backing column where the hob filter is housed). Maybe it can help you though
I agree... The appeal of the tank is its aesthetic so a hidden solution would be ideal.

Based on what I read, the tank frequently has problems with cyanobacteria because of its dead zones. Not mine right now, but I bought it second-hand with inhabitants and it was completely overrun with BGA then. The car smelled like a swamp for days after transporting it, it was so bad; I had to nuke the tank and start over. But the tank really promotes it with its filter and limited circulation.

I've thought about adding a small power head for circulation but have reservations given the small tank size plus my inhabitants are mostly shrimp who could get sucked in.

I'm appreciating the suggestions though. For now my tank's okay but I know the water flow could be much better.
 
TheBettaSushi
  • Thread Starter
  • #10
Canisters are more efficient then hob filters so you need less flow.
Ah got it. So it doesn’t matter what the gph is (keeping in mind the size of the tank of course) as it’s different than comparing them to hob filters... So in my case, a gph of 80 in a canister is comparable to my aquaclear 20 hob of 100gph. Did I get that correct?
I agree... The appeal of the tank is its aesthetic so a hidden solution would be ideal.

Based on what I read, the tank frequently has problems with cyanobacteria because of its dead zones. Not mine right now, but I bought it second-hand with inhabitants and it was completely overrun with BGA then. The car smelled like a swamp for days after transporting it, it was so bad; I had to nuke the tank and start over. But the tank really promotes it with its filter and limited circulation.

I've thought about adding a small power head for circulation but have reservations given the small tank size plus my inhabitants are mostly shrimp who could get sucked in.

I'm appreciating the suggestions though. For now my tank's okay but I know the water flow could be much better.

Oh yikes! I don’t have the cyanobacteria problem, I have a diatoms problem and it’s all in the front part of the tank. My beautiful white sand has turned brown. There’s only so much I can siphon before the sand is completely gone.

I’ve been struggling with this tank for 4 years now. No matter what I try to do, it doesn’t work. Thanks to it’s apparent limitations.
 
david1978
  • #11
For a hob filter the Aquaclears do a really good job compared to cartridge style hob filters so they are quite effective. But generally an 80 gph canister would be like a 120 gph hob filter or so. That's just a quick estimate.
 
Advertisement
Cichlidude
  • #12
That's the one I was looking at. The gph is only 80 on that though so if I go with that, I may need to do pwc more frequently. Right now the one I have pumps 100 gph and I do water changes once every 7 days (except for the past month because I’ve been trying to eradicate microscopic detritus worms).
For a 6 gallon tank you only need 50-60 gph anyway, which is more than enough.
 
TheBettaSushi
  • Thread Starter
  • #13
For a 6 gallon tank you only need 50-60 gph anyway, which is more than enough.
The Fluval edge comes with a 100 gph standard. I’m pretty confident that it’s because of the way the tank is made thus needing extra turn over. It’s basically an all around enclosed box with a small opening on the top. It’s meant to fill the tank all the way to give you an unobstructed top view. With that small of an opening, you’ll need as much turn over as you can get to prevent death (lack of oxygen, constant spikes, etc).

Not sure if you read my post in it’s entirety, but I’m looking for a canister with the same or equivalent to the gph I have, not a hob.
 
JenC
  • #14
So it doesn’t matter what the gph is (keeping in mind the size of the tank of course) as it’s different than comparing them to hob filters..

The typically-suggested turnover rate for a canister is 5x tank volume per hour whereas it's 8x-10x for a HOB. But really, the issue is not GPH processing rates with this tank; it's filter placement and water circulation due to its design.

I wonder if a power head or air pump connected to an airline could create a circular flow around the walls, alleviating the dead zones.
 
TheBettaSushi
  • Thread Starter
  • #15
For a hob filter the Aquaclears do a really good job compared to cartridge style hob filters so they are quite effective. But generally an 80 gph canister would be like a 120 gph hob filter or so. That's just a quick estimate.
I love my aquaclear, it’s just not effective for the Fluval edge because of the way the tank is made. I can only put my filter in one place which is in the middle. This prevents the current from moving towards the front and sides leaving me with a bunch of debris and diatoms in the front of the tank. If I set the filter on high, my betta gets thrashed around. I’d never use a cartridge filter. I like the way I can add certain media to my aquaclear and customize it for my needs.

Thank you very much for the info on the canister. I’ll have to measure the dimensions to see if the one you linked will fit inside the backing of my tank.
 
david1978
  • #16
That's about the only little canister I have seen. I have found others but they are for up to 20 gallons so I would think they are bigger.
 
Advertisement
TheBettaSushi
  • Thread Starter
  • #17
The typically-suggested turnover rate for a canister is 5x tank volume per hour whereas it's 8x-10x for a HOB. But really, the issue is not GPH processing rates with this tank; it's filter placement and water circulation due to its design.

I wonder if a power head or air pump connected to an airline could create a circular flow around the walls, alleviating the dead zones.
Gph plays a very important role, especially with the Fluval edge as it needs to turn more water because of the way the tank is made.

How would you create such a thing with the limited amount of space we have? I was thinking of making a spray bar all around the tank but with where the intake is located, it would be impossible to get flow going in that direction. Unless, you have another idea.

That's about the only little canister I have seen. I have found others but they are for up to 20 gallons so I would think they are bigger.
Yeah you’re right. I’m going to look into that one and measure it. I believe that comes with a spray bar as well so it will be fine since I drop 1/2 an inch of water below the top of the tank for the betta. I think the lily pipes will take up too much space because again, I’d have to put both the outflow and intake in the same place where the hob is now. Thanks again for your input.
 
JenC
  • #18
Gph plays a very important role, especially with the Fluval edge as it needs to turn more water because of the way the tank is made.

How would you create such a thing with the limited amount of space we have? I was thinking of making a spray bar all around the tank but with where the intake is located, it would be impossible to get flow going in that direction. Unless, you have another idea.
I think GPH is a factor but the issue is more the intake location, output location, and really flow within the tank. You could have a lower GPH filter with an adjustable, directed output creating a circular flow, not just the middle waterfall, and that would be more effective.

The stock filter has a higher GPH than a tank that size needs. It helps compensate for the structural limitations but doesn't quite resolve them. In my opinion the answer is not a higher GPH but a different intake/outake location to create a more optimal water flow within the tank.

I think I read someone adjusted their filter to change the intake location, promoting circulation. It could probably be done with an elbow socket, moving the intake or splitting it to the two sides.
 
TheBettaSushi
  • Thread Starter
  • #19
I think GPH is a factor but the issue is more the intake location, output location, and really flow within the tank. You could have a lower GPH filter with an adjustable, directed output creating a circular flow, not just the middle waterfall, and that would be more effective.

The stock filter has a higher GPH than a tank that size needs. It helps compensate for the structural limitations but doesn't quite resolve them. In my opinion the answer is not a higher GPH but a different intake/outake location to create a more optimal water flow within the tank.

I think I read someone adjusted their filter to change the intake location, promoting circulation. It could probably be done with an elbow socket, moving the intake or splitting it to the two sides.
Hmmm... splitting the intake is a great idea.. I need to figure out how to do that without taking up too much space or taking away from the asthetics of the tank. My other problem however is the output as makes too much current (even on its lowest setting, baffling, etc) and therefore my betta can’t use the entire tank. He stopped making a bubble nest because of this. I figured if I had a canister filter with a lily (spin) pipe intended for bettas, then it would help alleviate one of the two problems I’m having.

Maybe I can try using some pvc piping that fits into the intake pipe, bring the pipe towards the front of the tank, then use an intake guard to cap it. However, that will probably look unsightly and will be difficult to remove when doing maintenance since reaching towards the front of the tank is a pain.

I’ve seriously considered removing the top but I’ve heard horror stories of the tank cracking because it can lose its durability.

I’ve also considered throwing it out in the trash!!! That’s how frustrated I’ve become with it every week when doing pwc
 
david1978
  • #20
I had to look up the tank to get a better idea. One question. Who would pay that much for a 6 gallon tank? That's 55 gallon price.

Finnex PX-360 Compact Canister Aquarium Filter

Odyssea CFS 130 Hang on Aquarium Canister Filter External
Here's 2 other possibilities.
 
TheBettaSushi
  • Thread Starter
  • #21
I had to look up the tank to get a better idea. One question. Who would pay that much for a 6 gallon tank? That's 55 gallon price.

Finnex PX-360 Compact Canister Aquarium Filter

Odyssea CFS 130 Hang on Aquarium Canister Filter External
Here's 2 other possibilities.
Lol we’re paying for asthetics more than anything else. I believe it is the first of its kind for a top view tank. There are other brands who now make a similar tank. I spent $100 when it was on sale years ago. The price has gone up since then as they have upgraded the tank with better lighting and a touch on/off button on the hood itself.

Thanks for the links. I’m going to look into all of those.
 
Advertisement
david1978
  • #22
I have to say it is different looking. Lol. I recently down graded my betta tank but I don't think 19 of them of them would fit in that.
 
TheBettaSushi
  • Thread Starter
  • #23
I have to say it is different looking. Lol. I recently down graded my betta tank but I don't think 19 of them of them would fit in that.
19 of them wow! I only have one and I feel like 6 gallons isn’t enough for him lol. The Fluval edge is definitely eye catching and has a very appealing look to it. Everyone always asks me what the brand of the tank is and where I got it from but honestly, it’s not worth all the trouble it has caused with flow, intake, agitation, oxygenation (the list goes on and on). It was my first tank and I’ve kept using it for years because it works well with the asthetics of my home. I want to upgrade to a bigger tank preferably a waterbox aquarium but I just don’t have the space for it. I honestly don’t like chords and filters hanging either with other setups. This is one of the reasons why I bought the edge because those are all hidden inside the back panel.
 
JenC
  • #24
I had to look up the tank to get a better idea. One question. Who would pay that much for a 6 gallon tank?

But without this tank how could the kitty do this?

 
david1978
  • #25
Eh mine do that on top of the 75. They even try to fish in the gaps in the hood. I downgraded them from the 75 to a 55. Its still a big wow factor.
 
TheBettaSushi
  • Thread Starter
  • #26
But without this tank how could the kitty do this?

My cat does the same! Thank goodness for that glass top otherwise my betta would’ve been a snack by now.
 
Advertisement
david1978
  • #27
What about going old school under gravel.
 
JenC
  • #28
My cat does the same! Thank goodness for that glass top otherwise my betta would’ve been a snack by now.
Yeah, she really wants them. To eat or to play with, I don't know, but I'm glad she can't reach them.

She did manage to take the cover off once (probably hooked the tip of her claw in a hole) so now I tape it down if I'll be away for a few days.
 
TheBettaSushi
  • Thread Starter
  • #29
What about going old school under gravel.
That requires an air pump and constant replacing of the airstone I think. Also, I have sand as substrate so not sure that will do BUT, I think you just solved my dead zone problem!!!! Do you think those parts will work if I attach some of the piping to my intake? I’d attach from the intake and continue the tubing towards the front of the tank. At least this way all the debris from the front of the tank will get sucked up into the filter media (preferably my filter floss).

Yeah, she really wants them. To eat or to play with, I don't know, but I'm glad she can't reach them.

She did manage to take the cover off once (probably hooked the tip of her claw in a hole) so now I tape it down if I'll be away for a few days.
Smart kitty. Mine was declawed years ago so thankfully I don’t have that issue. He still bangs on the glass though trying to catch and my betta just stares at him like “haha nice try buddy”
 
david1978
  • #30
With fine sand it probably won't work. Course sand it might. I used to use pea gravel with the under gravel filters.
 
JenC
  • #31
I'll try to find where I saw someone mention they'd moved the intake. It was a while ago but I remember it.
 
TheBettaSushi
  • Thread Starter
  • #32
With fine sand it probably won't work. Course sand it might. I used to use pea gravel with the under gravel filters.
I have fine sand. I use caribsea supernaturals. That filter is only $10 so I might try it out as an intake extender. It’s worth a shot since I’ve pretty much exhausted everything else except for the canister filter.

I'll try to find where I saw someone mention they'd moved the intake. It was a while ago but I remember it.
Yes! If you come across it again, Please link it here.
 
JenC
  • #33
This isn't the link I was looking for but this person is using an external canister filter on the larger Edge (with the Aquaclear and plus a power head). Seeing the set up, I wonder if maybe david1978's canister suggestion is the best option if you could hide it behind or beneath the tank? Because you could split the intake of the Aquaclear but its output would still disrupt the surface in the small hole and make it hard to build bubble nests.

Or maybe an internal canister filter...

 
TheBettaSushi
  • Thread Starter
  • #34
This isn't the link I was looking for but this person is using an external canister filter on the larger Edge (with the Aquaclear and plus a power head). Seeing the set up, I wonder if maybe david1978's canister suggestion is the best option if you could hide it behind or beneath the tank? Because you could split the intake of the Aquaclear but its output would still disrupt the surface in the small hole and make it hard to build bubble nests.

Or maybe an internal canister filter...

Thanks for the link. You’re right. The intake split will only resolve one problem. I’m going to order both the zoomed and finnex canister filters off amazon and see if it will fit inside the backing column. If it doesn’t fit, I’ll just return it. I wish I could put it next to the tank (or the floor) but I have no room for it as my tank is sitting on a buffet cabinet in the dining area.


1FB40899-F4F2-4BAB-800B-171A587A64A4.jpeg
 

Similar Aquarium Threads

Replies
5
Views
1K
richiep
Replies
15
Views
305
Lucifer
Replies
12
Views
10K
FLfishGal
Replies
7
Views
424
SallImSayin
Replies
10
Views
1K
aquatickeeper
Advertisement


Advertisement



Advertisement
Top Bottom