Reds and blues are the key to artificial low power plant lighting. (Assuming all lights have similar outputs) The magic ratio if using plain red sems to be 3 red to each blue. If you run crimson and uv pink one of each to a blue, and if you run all three reds, true red, uv pink, and crimson it's finally beneficial to add one green and one blue per set. Assuming this is a simple array like I build (all the colors are powered together, not color/intensity adjustable like a fluval). I actually still have several sets of crimson I've been meaning to add to my arrays as I have a little too much blue/green.
On the algae note.
Despite my blue and green lights running brighter than expected; The algae in my tanks is negligible but I credit that entirely to extreme management of nutrient through testing and water change, as well as knowing 100% what I dump (or choose not to) in my tanks is being used up. I don't use a generic fertilizer that may cause excess of any one type of nutrient. I am currently testing my own blend of macros outside the tank to supplement the health of the fish as my plants, without fertilizer, are currently running me out of calcium, magnesium and potassium faster than I can change water. The colors of light can help a plant more at different stages of life. I have heard/read that blues are more beneficial to plants in the beginning toner stages and that you can increase your red as more leaf appears and to encourage out of season blooms if you have flowering plants. I have also read that blue actinic lights intended for salt water use can encourage or cause freshwater algae blooms. None the less, all things need light, and nutrients, if you get a little off with one, finely control the other. Ultimately control both and the results will show.
They aren't Christmas lights. They are lights that are meant to go on your bike tires and I have 2 sets of them. I was thinking of just attaching them to the light frame.
LED I think.Are the lights incandescent or LED? If they are the older incandescent lights, I doubt they are sufficiently bright to do much for your tank. If they are red LEDs (and not white LEDs with a red coating or globe over them), they them might be bright enough to be useful. LED aquarium lights also have a reflector that insures that light produced by the bulb is directed into the aquarium. Without such as reflector, most of the light will be wasted.
I see algae on your back glass and that means you have cleaned the rest. Front and sides. Everyone has some. How much depends on lots of variables.
Algae on glass is Mostly all I have. Just a tiny bit on scape.
So now I know why I have some algae. I only run the white and blue with my fixture.
Any recommendations on using the other colors?
I have the Fluval Sea 3.0 Fixture I think. TIA
None. Blue light does not cause algae and it is extremely important for photosynthesis in both plants and algae.What color is bad for plants? Algae in particular.
Well, all light will grow algae no matter what. If you're cutting back on blue you might as well cut back on red and white and other colors. Chlorophyll a and b absorb light maximally at blue and red wavelengths. White light contains all wavelengths. Therefore unless you want to only use yellow and green light (which is still used in photosynthesis to a degree) there is no point IMO. Algae will even use ambient room light if you don't have an artificial light.So it does prevent algae. Or at least help with algae. I don't have any live plants and I don't want algae. I will cut way back on blue or not use it at all.
I am trying to control natural occurring algae with photo period and LED colors. Of course along with regular maintenance and weekly water changes.
I have a Fluval Sea fixture with freshwater and can choose what colors to use. My question was which color or colors not to use to assist me with unwanted algae control.