Really Bad Parameters All Of A Sudden. Please Help.

SuperK
  • #1
So last night I noticed my tank was a little foggy, however it was extremely late and I wasn't able to do anything without waking my entire house up. Today (it's almost 6pm, just woke up lol) I decided it'd be best to do a parameter check.

I tested the water and immediately realised I needed to do a water change fast.

0-.25/0.50/40

eacdbcf65e035f75fb2b3233fe04041e.jpg
Here's an , sorry I couldn't get it with the card but they keep sliding around.

Yikes. However it's odd to me. I didn't really have much of an ammonia spike, highest it ever got was about .25. Is that normal? Is it normal to have a huge nitrite spike and nitrate spike together? I always kinda thought it was ammonia spike, nitrite spike and then you have a small spike in nitrates. Never seen em together imo. I've only ever been able to cycle a tank halfway before something happens to it lol. I got midway into my 39 gals cycle before my parents disassembled it without my permission. Anyway.

Gonna do a water change right now, my fish will suffer if I don't. I thought he looked a little off when I woke up.
 

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Kiks
  • #2
I'm no expert when it comes to cycling with fish, so I don't know if the spikes are different compared to cycling without fish. However, if your ammonia has never reached more than 0.25 ppm I'm surprised you've even got your cycle started.
0.50 ppm nitrite is not what I've experienced when cycling. When my tank has spiked during fishless cycling it's been rising to about 5 ppm nitrites and then I've done a water change cause that's what you're supposed to do when doing it like that.
These are all very low numbers when it comes to cycling at least compared to my experience. Definitely a good call to do a water change since these are not low numbers for the fish.
Also, I know that people have different experiences with the API test kit especially when it comes to ammonia readings and how well the color of the tube matches the 0 on the card. Just wanted to say that my tube has never been the right yellow color and to me your tube looks like a 0 reading.
 

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SuperK
  • Thread Starter
  • #3
I'm no expert when it comes to cycling with fish, so I don't know if the spikes are different compared to cycling without fish. However, if your ammonia has never reached more than 0.25 ppm I'm surprised you've even got your cycle started.
0.50 ppm nitrite is not what I've experienced when cycling. When my tank has spiked during fishless cycling it's been rising to about 5 ppm nitrites and then I've done a water change cause that's what you're supposed to do when doing it like that.
These are all very low numbers when it comes to cycling at least compared to my experience. Definitely a good call to do a water change since these are not low numbers for the fish.
Also, I know that people have different experiences with the API test kit especially when it comes to ammonia readings and how well the color of the tube matches the 0 on the card. Just wanted to say that my tube has never been the right yellow color and to me your tube looks like a 0 reading.

Yeah no it's been kinda off green before, I just find it off that I'd have such a massive nitrate spike. It was 0 a few days ago. Now the tank is cloudy and it's got horrible parameters. Could my tank have crashed?

Okay I made a post earlier and it got zero traction but now this is kind of a big issue.

So last night I noticed my tank was very slightly cloudy. I decided maybe it was a tiny bacterial bloom, would clear up. Wasn't really much I could do that late at night anyway. So when I woke up I tested my water and my parameters were kinda whack.
6a44e782d757925cf0531ff82865f454.jpg

Now, while this may not be big in terms of cycling, the fact of the matter is my tank was pretty much 0/0/0 this entire time. Sometimes I'd get a very faint reading of ammonia. However all of a sudden the parameters are just bad. I'm more concerned about the nitrates than anything else since they're the worst. I did a water change around 7pm and we're back to cloudy with bad water.

68972156f4615fdfd0828eceb7265c35.jpg

What do I do? Has my tank crashed? Is this new tank syndrome? I can't change the water again either, it's too late at night. I'm only 16 and my parents will get annoyed.

I have a betta in there at the moment. I didn't want to do a fish in cycle but it wasn't my choice. I don't want him to die but I have no spare tank I can keep him in. He looks okay but a little lethargic which is worrying. No gasping or anything. Gonna turn his lights off to minimise stress.
 
Kiks
  • #4
Yeah no it's been kinda off green before, I just find it off that I'd have such a massive nitrate spike. It was 0 a few days ago. Now the tank is cloudy and it's got horrible parameters. Could my tank have crashed?

I guess it somewhat could've crashed, though I don't know if that really counts since you aren't cycled yet. Sometimes weird things just happen during cycles.
Is there any chance that you've had a nitrite spike (not 0.50 ppm, but like 2 - 3 ppm) without knowing? Has there been a couple of days where you haven't tested? If you've had a nitrite spike that could definitely cause a rise in nitrates.
 
Fanatic
  • #5
What size is this tank exactly?

My brother's tank had a bacterial bloom, and signs of cloudy water. I'm 15, but I can help you.
 

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Coradee
  • #7
Threads have been merged, please only create one thread per topic
 
SuperK
  • Thread Starter
  • #8
Threads have been merged, please only create one thread per topic
Thanks, was on mobile. I'm just stressing out since I don't know what to do and I kinda need help badly.

.
What size is this tank exactly?

My brother's tank had a bacterial bloom, and signs of cloudy water. I'm 15, but I can help you.
It's a 12gal cube.

Do you have Prime or another water conditioner that protects against ammonia & nitrites? If so double or triple dose for the volume of the tank. I would test again & then do a 50% water change as soon as possible.

I don't sorry, I need to buy some. I left my test tubes a little longer and now they're about 0.50-1.0/.50-1.0 and 40-80ppm again. I can't do a WC till tomorrow, it's 22:30 PM. Was thinking to move my betta to like, a pyrex jug or something overnight just so he has clean water.
 
AWheeler
  • #9
Don't read your tubes after about 5 min, 10 min max (if that)

See if you can get the Betta to a different place with some clean water (the bigger the better so ammonia doesn't build up).

Some questions though...did you do a water change before you saw this going on in your tank...what else is in the tank, how much do you feed the Betta, what is the ph of your tank, and last but not least....did you test your tap for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate?
 
SuperK
  • Thread Starter
  • #10
Don't read your tubes after about 5 min, 10 min max (if that)

See if you can get the Betta to a different place with some clean water (the bigger the better so ammonia doesn't build up).

Some questions though...did you do a water change before you saw this going on in your tank...what else is in the tank, how much do you feed the Betta, what is the ph of your tank, and last but not least....did you test your tap for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate?

I've tested the water before and it's come out as complete zero. pH is 6.8 I think last time I checked. I do water changes every week since my ammonia would really never rise. I think the day this happened I did a water change though. Like, it happened after a WC I believe. I can try and find something but I don't know if I have anything but jugs lol.

Edit: I said 6.8 originally in this but when I actually did the test I remembered the colour was the same and it is actually 7.6 or whatever it was down in my comment below. I have dyscalculia so I have difficulties remembering numbers and find it easier to remember things like colours and such.
 

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AWheeler
  • #11
Test your tap that shouldn't disturb the parents too much! Your ph is also below 7 and it can cause crashes in ph (possibly) but I'm not sure entirely if that will cause a cycle crash, I think it would though.
Water qualities can change, especially this time of year. Do you have an old ice cream container, a bucket, or something similar?
 
SuperK
  • Thread Starter
  • #12
Hello all
I had to go to bed not long after this however it's now 7am so I can check my water parameters from tap

Tank is now very cloudy, wish it'd show up in photos ugh, it's just kinda too light to be picked up but I can see it irl. I'll edit this comment in a minute with parameters.

EDIT:
Here are parameters

7eab92402e4ceebc61122c1cf9ea70b0.jpg
pH is the same

5161eff1e212d71b9bc8a2921abaa94b.jpg

These are not, the nitrate looks at least 5, ammonia is the slightest tinge of green. It wasn't like this the last time I tested. Maybe this is why my levels have been so off...
 
EternalDancer
  • #13
You're in London and your tap water is 0, 0, 0?

I would double check that. Typically our water is pretty high on nitrate.

I would say your tank wasn't cycled and now it's showing.

Lots of water changes will help, but double check your source first.
 
SuperK
  • Thread Starter
  • #14
You're in London and your tap water is 0, 0, 0?

I would double check that. Typically our water is pretty high on nitrate.

I would say your tank wasn't cycled and now it's showing.

Lots of water changes will help, but double check your source first.

Yeah weird but I'm 99% it was, I just updated my comment above. I've tested before and it's been 0/0/0

Also yeah I know my tank isn't cycled haha, not my choice but gotta do what you gotta do I guess. Dunno what I'm gonna do if the water changes are adding to the problem...
 

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TerryCat
  • #15
I would get a cheap glass vase to put your betta in while it cycles, do daily or 100% water changes (or at least every few days) of the vase and let your tank cycle... it's nnot ideal for the betta but better than going through the cycle. Use food to fee the cycle in your tank. I lost a betta by not cycling it first and I don't want you to loose yours too
 
SuperK
  • Thread Starter
  • #16
I would get a cheap glass vase to put your betta in while it cycles, do daily or 100% water changes (or at least every few days) of the vase and let your tank cycle... it's nnot ideal for the betta but better than going through the cycle. Use food to fee the cycle in your tank. I lost a betta by not cycling it first and I don't want you to loose yours too

Wouldn't it be better to use ammonia? Although frozen food pollutes the water a lot so I guess it'd be pretty much the same. I have about 100 vases I can keep him in so I'll move him when my parents are awake and won't get mad because "I'm making too much noise" lol
What I might do is run up to the shops and buy a plastic tub thing so he has a little more room to swim than say, a vase. But it'll do for now. Poor little dude, he's been through so much lately. He seems okay at the moment.

Also how would I do 100% changes? Where do I put him when I've taken the water out? In a little cup or something? I've never done anything like this and betta cups are not something that exist over here.
 
EternalDancer
  • #17
Get yourself a plastic tub, put him in it.

Do a 50% change in the morning, 50% in the evening. Less stressful. The morning change can be a 30 second scoop some water out and pour some water in if you've places to be. The evening change can be a suck out poop and whatnot.

I would definitely use pure ammonia if you can, it'll be much more accurate for cycling.
 
Kiks
  • #18
If you can find pure ammonia in a store, buy it and use it. Using anything else is much more difficult and inaccurate.
I know nothing about bettas, but I've read tons of threads on this forum where people have said that you should always cycle without fish unless it's with a betta, since they're really hardy. I don't know if this is true, just seems to be something a lot of people agree on.
I'd always cycle fishless, but when you're doing a fish-in-cycle that's not really an option anymore.

Also, adding Prime would be a much easier option. If you can keep your water parameters as they are now and dose Prime to detoxify the 0.25 ppm ammonia, I don't see why you shouldn't be able to keep your fish where he is now.
 

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SuperK
  • Thread Starter
  • #19
Also, adding Prime would be a much easier option. If you can keep your water parameters as they are now and dose Prime to detoxify the 0.25 ppm ammonia, I don't see why you shouldn't be able to keep your fish where he is now.

I'd have to order prime online which can take ages to come, I live in the UK and it's not easy to find in stores.

If you can find pure ammonia in a store, buy it and use it. Using anything else is much more difficult and inaccurate.
I know nothing about bettas, but I've read tons of threads on this forum where people have said that you should always cycle without fish unless it's with a betta, since they're really hardy. I don't know if this is true, just seems to be something a lot of people agree on.
I'd always cycle fishless, but when you're doing a fish-in-cycle that's not really an option anymore.

If this was my choice I would've done fishless. However the tank is pretty much uninhabitable at this point and I'd rather not put him through the stress of constantly changing parameters. He's already lethargic. He's usually very active but now he's just kind of sitting around on things. I'm about to go buy a cheap tub, I believe we might have ammonia at home but if not I can go out tomorrow as well and grab some. It's kind of a long journey that I don't really wanna have to do, I live kinda far from most of the hardware stores near me. Tub and ammonia in one day is difficult. Opposite ends of town.
 
EternalDancer
  • #20
B&Q, Wilkos or similar should have both, I would think...

Make sure your ammonia is 100%, or just mixed with water, no other additives.

I don't know I've ever seen prime over here, although I'd think we must have something similar?

BottomDweller Coradee any ideas? I think you're both UK... apologies if not.
 
ams083
  • #22
If you can't find prime, check to see if they stock Continuum Fraction - it's the same stuff. Also, just keep in mind that if you're going to be using Prime or Fraction to remove the toxins from the ammonia spikes, you will get a false positive when doing tests. This is because the ammonia is still present, it's just not toxic.

By the looks of things, your bacteria hasn't quite established, but you have mentioned you know it hasn't cycled yet. Another product you can add to help speed up there good bacteria is Bacter Gen F, by Continuum. This can be added after water changes etc. I used this after I had a crash and re-cycle after doing a bit to well of a job on cleaning the filter.

I suffered horrendous water tests for about 3-4 weeks after, but keeping up with regular water changes throughout and dosing with prime ensured I had not 1 death, no signs of stress etc. I had a large nitrite spike toward the end, did 100% wc over a day, then the next day it was all back to normal.
 

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SuperK
  • Thread Starter
  • #23
So I got him this

84c0b9b915b8ad0efd42c5448166707d.jpg
It's a lot bigger irl than in the photo, I'm not a fan of bowls but I was worried some random tub wouldn't be fish safe and I wasn't sure how to check. Gonna add a little more water soon but I realised halfway through how heavy it was and decided I'd fill the rest from my room.

Anyway, the tanks are quite a distance apart, how would I go about moving him without netting him and walking with him halfway across my room?
19f16f3de3769d7a7794c83c8039f791.jpg
The other tank is over there. Should I put him in a cup? Do I need to acclimate? I needed some conditioner fast because I'm running out of stress coat so I just bought a small bottle of tetra aquasafe. I'll be buying a bottle of prime soon.

Also would like to add the water is that dark because of tannins, not neglect.
 
BottomDweller
  • #24
Really useful boxes in the UK are fish safe.

Remember to move the heater with him.
 
Kiks
  • #25
I'd have to order prime online which can take ages to come, I live in the UK and it's not easy to find in stores.



If this was my choice I would've done fishless. However the tank is pretty much uninhabitable at this point and I'd rather not put him through the stress of constantly changing parameters. He's already lethargic. He's usually very active but now he's just kind of sitting around on things. I'm about to go buy a cheap tub, I believe we might have ammonia at home but if not I can go out tomorrow as well and grab some. It's kind of a long journey that I don't really wanna have to do, I live kinda far from most of the hardware stores near me. Tub and ammonia in one day is difficult. Opposite ends of town.

You can buy Prime on Amazon.co.uk and it will arrive in 1 - 2 days.
 
SuperK
  • Thread Starter
  • #26
Really useful boxes in the UK are fish safe.

Remember to move the heater with him.

His heater broke, I'm waiting on a new one. Currently he doesn't have one, but his water does stay around 26c which is ok. But if left too long it drops.
 

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SuperK
  • Thread Starter
  • #27
I haven't been able to move him yet because I'm not sure how. I can move him right now but no one has given me any advice on how to Netting him and moving him over is too dangerous.
 
Kiks
  • #28
Why is netting and moving too dangerous?
How about capturing him in a cup?
 
SuperK
  • Thread Starter
  • #29
Why is netting and moving too dangerous?
How about capturing him in a cup?

Idk I'm worried about him tryna jump out of the net and being exposed to air for kinda long. Sure it's not a massive distance but at the same time I'd rather minimise stress for him. I don't want him freaking out in a net.

What kinda cup would I use? Just ones that you drink outta?
Does he need to be acclimated? Or do you think he'll be okay?
 
Kiks
  • #30
I have two tanks and the parameters are the same except for a slight difference in pH. I acclimate all fish when I move them from one tank to another. I net my fish and put them directly into a plastic bag already filled with water, exactly as they do at the stores. This means that the fish is without water for maybe 1 - 2 seconds and then returned to water that is the exact same as where it came from. Then I float the bag and release it when acclimating is done.
If you don't wanna use a net, use a cup. I'd guide him into the cup and then put him in a bag to acclimate him. I can be afraid to net fish as well, because it just seems like a very rough way of handling, but there has never happened anything to my fish. I've netted a lot of different fish and they've all been just fine.
If it's too hard getting him into a cup you could also use a bowl or some other larger container than a usual cup.
 

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SuperK
  • Thread Starter
  • #31
I have two tanks and the parameters are the same except for a slight difference in pH. I acclimate all fish when I move them from one tank to another. I net my fish and put them directly into a plastic bag already filled with water, exactly as they do at the stores. This means that the fish is without water for maybe 1 - 2 seconds and then returned to water that is the exact same as where it came from. Then I float the bag and release it when acclimating is done.
If you don't wanna use a net, use a cup. I'd guide him into the cup and then put him in a bag to acclimate him. I can be afraid to net fish as well, because it just seems like a very rough way of handling, but there has never happened anything to my fish. I've netted a lot of different fish and they've all been just fine.
If it's too hard getting him into a cup you could also use a bowl or some other larger container than a usual cup.

I'll use a cup, he's very curious about things so I can't imagine this will be too hard haha. Every time I siphon the tank he gets in the way and I end up hitting him with the gravel vac sometimes lol. Not hard of course, but even after that he'll just swim right up to it again, it can get quite irritating.

I don't have any fish bags, could I pour tank water from the new tank into the cup he'll be in to acclimate him slowly?
 
Kiks
  • #32
I'll use a cup, he's very curious about things so I can't imagine this will be too hard haha. Every time I siphon the tank he gets in the way and I end up hitting him with the gravel vac sometimes lol. Not hard of course, but even after that he'll just swim right up to it again, it can get quite irritating.

I don't have any fish bags, could I pour tank water from the new tank into the cup he'll be in to acclimate him slowly?

I use regular plastic bags. Don't know if it's necessary to use actual fish bags, but so far I've noticed no difference. I think you'd need a very large container to be able to acclimate him properly. At least something bigger than a cup.
I felt the same about a BN pleco... how hard can it really be catching it? Actually wasn't hard at all, it just took time. I put food in the net and waited like half an hour for it to trap itself. Worked like a charm.

Also, the acclimating of temperature won't be the same in a cup as in a bag.
 
SuperK
  • Thread Starter
  • #33
So I went to turn the light on in the tank (I actually found a spare fish bag) and... the water is completely clear again. Still a good idea to move him? I would guess so only because I can't imagine it's finished cycling.
 
Kiks
  • #34
Clear water doesn't necessarily mean that it's cycled. My tanks cleared up way before being done cycling. I don't remember... did you have a test kit? If you do definitely check the water parameters. If you don't I'd still move him. I don't think much has changed, it just means that the bloom is over.
 

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SuperK
  • Thread Starter
  • #35
Clear water doesn't necessarily mean that it's cycled. My tanks cleared up way before being done cycling. I don't remember... did you have a test kit? If you do definitely check the water parameters. If you don't I'd still move him. I don't think much has changed, it just means that the bloom is over.

That's what I thought, parameters won't be different because I haven't changed the water. I do have a test kit but I already know they're gonna be the same because again I haven't done a WC.
 
Kiks
  • #36
That's what I thought, parameters won't be different because I haven't changed the water. I do have a test kit but I already know they're gonna be the same because again I haven't done a WC.

Yeah, well then it probably doesn't make sense to test the water. I'd move him to a tank/container where you know the water is okay and keep him there until your tank is finished cycling. How are you gonna finish the cycle?
 
BeanFish
  • #37
I'm confused, what is happening here? If your tank is cycled and then gets foggy and all your parameters get messed up it is probably a bacterial bloom. Happened to me once when I was messing with my media and fixing an impeller, I think I killed some bacteria, and in a matter of hours, the tank went white. I just added some media from an already cycled tank, did a water change, and the thing cleared up in a day.
Why are you moving the fish to another tank? I'm confused because I would guess the tank you are gonna put him is going to be uncycled...
At this point I would do a fish in cycle, if your tank was cycled then just check your parameters daily and do water changes as needed, it should be working again in 2 weeks at worst.
 
SuperK
  • Thread Starter
  • #38
I'm confused, what is happening here? If your tank is cycled and then gets foggy and all your parameters get messed up it is probably a bacterial bloom. Happened to me once when I was messing with my media and fixing an impeller, I think I killed some bacteria, and in a matter of hours, the tank went white. I just added some media from an already cycled tank, did a water change, and the thing cleared up in a day.
Why are you moving the fish to another tank? I'm confused because I would guess the tank you are gonna put him is going to be uncycled...
At this point I would do a fish in cycle, if your tank was cycled then just check your parameters daily and do water changes as needed, it should be working again in 2 weeks at worst.

So a while ago I had a 39 gal that was disassembled without my permission and had all my fish crammed into an uncycled 12gal. Since then I've fixed the stocking problems and it now is home to my betta, who previously lived in said 39. Now my tank wasn't cycled at all, and I never had any signs of it until suddenly now, my tank is getting dangerous readings of nitrite and nitrate. My fish cannot live in this tank as of current because even after water changes the tank spikes straight back up. I will be moving him very temporarily to a little unfiltered tank (which also means no bacteria can grow, ergo, no blooms) and will be doing 100% daily water changes as well as maintaining the other tank. He's extremely lethargic in the 12 gal atm so it mustn't be good, Id rather he had a clean place to swim. And since he's a betta he won't produce so much waste.

Basically the 12gal had never cycled and is now suddenly kickstarting straight into it and my fish is suffering. The small one is temporary until I can get things under control.

Yeah, well then it probably doesn't make sense to test the water. I'd move him to a tank/container where you know the water is okay and keep him there until your tank is finished cycling. How are you gonna finish the cycle?

Dose with ammonia and check parameters daily, do water changes when there's spikes and wait until I have 0/0/10

Also I just had a massive panic attack tryna get him into the bag (I have severe anxiety) lol, do I also have to net him out of the bag? I screamed and I'm surprised I didn't wake up my entire house. I don't wanna have to go through that again.

Also, atm I'm just floating the bag, is that enough? Should I pour water into it?

Ran into an issue, net is bigger than bag and it's very hard to get into it properly
 

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Kiks
  • #39
Sounds like a good plan.
You don't have to net him out of the bag if it isn't necessary. If there's something in the water that you don't want transferred to the new tank, then net him out, otherwise just pour him out of the bag gently.
How big is the difference between the tank parameters? As a minimum I'd float the bag at the top of the tank for five minutes, then add about 200 ml water from the tank you're transferring him to. Then wait another five minutes and repeat for at least 20 minutes.
If you only float the bag and don't add any water you're only acclimating him to the new temperature and not the other water parameters, so adding water is indeed needed.
 
SuperK
  • Thread Starter
  • #40
Sounds like a good plan.
You don't have to net him out of the bag if it isn't necessary. If there's something in the water that you don't want transferred to the new tank, then net him out, otherwise just pour him out of the bag gently.
How big is the difference between the tank parameters? As a minimum I'd float the bag at the top of the tank for five minutes, then add about 200 ml water from the tank you're transferring him to. Then wait another five minutes and repeat for at least 20 minutes.
If you only float the bag and don't add any water you're only acclimating him to the new temperature and not the other water parameters, so adding water is indeed needed.

I have been adding water, I think I'll just pour him in, the net doesn't fit anyway. I'll do a water change tomorrow since obviously the old tank water is going to have the nitrates and stuff present. Don't really want that sitting around.
 

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