Re: Fishless cycle help

Bsud
  • #1
My tank has been set up for around 14 days. My ammonia is still at 4ppm, my pH is 8.2 no nitrite or nitrates. I've used prime to dechlorinate, and I've dosed with bottled bacteria. I'm now starting to get cloudy water. Is all this normal and am I still going in the right direction to cycle? I would have thought my ammonia would be gone by now?
 
omordn
  • #2
Cloudy water could mean bacterial bloom which is fine. As far as your ammonia, if I recall during fishless cycling, you need to perform water changes and then dose your ammonia to 2ppm (I could be wrong on the ppm reading).

Your tank is considered cycled when it can process your ammonia in 24 hours. Your other readings should be 0ppm for Nitrites and 5 ~ 20 ppm for Nitrates.

The fact that you have no Nitrates at the moment means that your tank is not cycled (along with how it is processing your ammonia, or lack of).

I also believe that 2 weeks is the MINIMUM length that a tank COULD cycle... not that it's the case. My tank took a month to fully cycle. Hope this helps... and hopefully someone with better knowledge can correct any wrong statements I've made here.
 
jdhef
  • #3
You received some good advice above from omordn.

What bacteria product did you add? Many don't work, and some of the one's that do work need to be used in a specific way.
 
omordn
  • #5
I used API Quick start

It seems that people are steering away from API Quick Start. Here is a link that has more information on it and people's opinion:



Long story short, if you can, I would recommend using Tetra SafeStart Plus. A lot of individuals in this forum have used it, and aside from their experience using it, they have had A LOT of success.
 
Bsud
  • Thread Starter
  • #6
It seems that people are steering away from API Quick Start. Here is a link that has more information on it and people's opinion:



Long story short, if you can, I would recommend using Tetra SafeStart Plus. A lot of individuals in this forum have used it, and aside from their experience using it, they have had A LOT of success.
Can I use it now since I've put in the API?
 
Bsud
  • Thread Starter
  • #8
I haven't dosed it since startup but I used Dr Tim's ammonia chloride. Also I just test and my numbers are ammonia-4ppm, nitrite- .25ppm, ph- 8 I'm just wondering should I just leave it alone and let it do its thing, since I now have a little nitrite showing up? I haven't test the nitrate since I don't have a ammonia drop. It seems like it may still be on the right track?
 
jhigg008
  • #9
I haven't dosed it since startup but I used Dr Tim's ammonia chloride. Also I just test and my numbers are ammonia-4ppm, nitrite- .25ppm, ph- 8 I'm just wondering should I just leave it alone and let it do its thing, since I now have a little nitrite showing up? I haven't test the nitrate since I don't have a ammonia drop. It seems like it may still be on the right track?

Yeah you could let it ride. But I don't think it would hurt anything to do the TSS+. It could speed things up for you.
 
Bsud
  • Thread Starter
  • #10
Ok another question, now that my nitrites are showing up, my ammonia should now start coming down soon correct? Then eventually my nitrites will start coming down correct? Today my nitrites were .50ppm but my ammonia hasn't started dropping yet. Still haven't put any TSS+ in yet.
 
jhigg008
  • #11
Ok another question, now that my nitrites are showing up, my ammonia should now start coming down soon correct? Then eventually my nitrites will start coming down correct? Today my nitrites were .50ppm but my ammonia hasn't started dropping yet. Still haven't put any TSS+ in yet.

Yes you should see ammonia go down then nitrites go down. Have you tested your tap water? I wonder if your tap has nitrites in it. Normally by the time nitrites show up the ammonia is dropping.
 
Bsud
  • Thread Starter
  • #12
Yes you should see ammonia go down then nitrites go down. Have you tested your tap water? I wonder if your tap has nitrites in it. Normally by the time nitrites show up the ammonia is dropping.
Yes I've tested tap, 0 nitrites.
 
jhigg008
  • #13
Well just keep testing. Your ammonia should start to drop soon. Since you started at 4ppm it might just be taking a bit longer to catch up.
 
Bsud
  • Thread Starter
  • #14
Ok I have another question, I'm pretty sure I'm heading in right direction. My test results now are ammonia 4ppm, Nitrites 1ppm, and my nitrates are 40-80ppm hard to tell those two colors. My question is do I need to wait till my ammonia is below 1ppm before I dose it again? I haven't dosed ammonia since day one when I dosed it up to 4ppm
 
jhigg008
  • #15
Ok I have another question, I'm pretty sure I'm heading in right direction. My test results now are ammonia 4ppm, Nitrites 1ppm, and my nitrates are 40-80ppm hard to tell those two colors. My question is do I need to wait till my ammonia is below 1ppm before I dose it again? I haven't dosed ammonia since day one when I dosed it up to 4ppm

That is kind of weird that you have nitrites and nitrates but the ammonia has not lowered. I personally might do a 50% water change but CindiL would be much more helpful here! Dont add any more ammonia though.

Edit: just thinking here, the 4ppm and 8ppm green colors are kind if hard to differentiate to me at least. Is it possible you originally dosed much more than 4ppm and now it is going down?
 
CindiL
  • #16
Hi, that would be my feeling also is that you dosed ammonia much higher than 4.0 initially. The tests are hard to differentiate. The best way to tell where your ammonia, nitrites and nitrates are when they're high is to do half tank water and half bottled water. Run the tests and then multiply by 2. This should help you determine exactly where they're at.

Rule of thumb is to let ammonia drop all the way to 0. Once it hits 0, depending on where the nitrites are you either re-dose ammonia or wait a couple more days for them to drop. If nitrates hit 100ppm or nitrites start going over 5.0 I would do a water change personally.

Just keep posting your numbers and we'll help.

It you have bought a bottled bacteria, it can only help by adding it. If you want to wait it out that is fine too.
 
Bsud
  • Thread Starter
  • #17
It is possible I went over initially on ammonia and its starting to come down. I agree it is really hard for me to tell on those green colors.

I just test today ammonia and nitrites and this is results. I really think my ammonia is coming down, it didn't look near as dark then I've been noticing. Also my nitrites are up a bit more but don't think there quite at 5 mark.

Can someone help me out with this? Would you suggest a water change or just wait?
 

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jhigg008
  • #18
Can someone help me out with this? Would you suggest a water change or just wait?

What are your levels today? (Ammonia, Nitrite & Nitrate) Also, pH if you have a test for that.
 
Bsud
  • Thread Starter
  • #19
What are your levels today? (Ammonia, Nitrite & Nitrate) Also, pH if you have a test for that.
OK today...ammonia 3-4ppm, nitrites between 2-5ppm (hard to tell colors but no more than 5ppm), pH around 7.6, nitrates 40-80ppm (again hard to tell color).
 
jhigg008
  • #20
OK today...ammonia 3-4ppm, nitrites between 2-5ppm (hard to tell colors but no more than 5ppm), pH around 7.6, nitrates 40-80ppm (again hard to tell color).

I would do a large water change. Then test your levels an hour later. Then depending on where your ammonia is registering, you should dose to 2ppm.
 
CindiL
  • #21
Sounds like a good plan to me also.
 
Bsud
  • Thread Starter
  • #22
I would do a large water change. Then test your levels an hour later. Then depending on where your ammonia is registering, you should dose to 2ppm.
OK I just did a 75% water change but I'm gonna wait till tomorrow morning to test. I will give numbers here afterwards. So my ammonia needs to be below 2ppm when I test in order to dose it back up to the 2ppm correct?
 
jhigg008
  • #23
OK I just did a 75% water change but I'm gonna wait till tomorrow morning to test. I will give numbers here afterwards. So my ammonia needs to be below 2ppm when I test in order to dose it back up to the 2ppm correct?

That would be my suggestion. Have you tested your tap water? I do not remember if you mentioned whether or not your tap registers ammonia readings.
 
Bsud
  • Thread Starter
  • #24
My tap does register .50ppm ammonia
 
jhigg008
  • #25
My tap does register .50ppm ammonia

That is about what mine says also. So just note that because when you test your water after a water change, you will already have some ammonia readings. Eventually your BB will take care of it quickly, but for now it matters because it will factor in when you determine how much you need to dose with ammonia to get to 2 ppm.
 
CindiL
  • #26
If you're between 1 and 2ppm tomorrow I would just leave it and not dose more.
 
Bsud
  • Thread Starter
  • #27
OK I will let you know what it is

If you're between 1 and 2ppm tomorrow I would just leave it and not dose more.
OK after my 75% WC last night here are my results. Ammonia around 1ppm, nitrites between 2-5ppm, nitrates around 40ppm, and pH 6.8
 

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jhigg008
  • #28
OK after my 75% WC last night here are my results. Ammonia around 1ppm, nitrites between 2-5ppm, nitrates around 40ppm, and pH 6.8

You might do another 60% water change or so. Nitrates and nitrites are high.
 
Bsud
  • Thread Starter
  • #29
You might do another 60% water change or so. Nitrates and nitrites are high.
So what am I trying to get those two down to?
 
jhigg008
  • #30
Bsud
  • Thread Starter
  • #31
Close to 0ppm
But how do I know my bacteria has established if I'm doing these WCs?
 
jhigg008
  • #32
But how do I know my bacteria has established if I'm doing these WCs?

The issue is that having nitrite and nitrate readings that high might cause ur cycle to stall. Once your readings get close to zero, redose your ammonia to 2ppm and wait for it to go down. The water changes are not going to harm the BB. It is just that you dosed so much ammonia to begin with that there has been an accumulation of nitrites and nitrates. Your BB has begun to colonize but the BB that converts
nitrites to nitrates is likely not filly established yet. When your tank can take 2ppm of ammonia and convert to nitrite and then nitrate (so 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrites, and some level of nitrates) within 24 hrs you are likely cycled.
 
boxtop
  • #33
What I have found is that if you let your nitrites get higher than 5 PPM, the cycle can stall. So do water changes to keep the nitrites below 5 PPM and dose to about 2 PPM ammonia after each change. The bacterial colonies are growing, just be patient.
 
Bsud
  • Thread Starter
  • #34
The issue is that having nitrite and nitrate readings that high might cause ur cycle to stall. Once your readings get close to zero, redose your ammonia to 2ppm and wait for it to go down. The water changes are not going to harm the BB. It is just that you dosed so much ammonia to begin with that there has been an accumulation of nitrites and nitrates. Your BB has begun to colonize but the BB that converts
nitrites to nitrates is likely not filly established yet. When your tank can take 2ppm of ammonia and convert to nitrite and then nitrate (so 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrites, and some level of nitrates) within 24 hrs you are likely cycled.
Ok I've did another WC around 70% I will test again sometime tonight and post results. Thank you all for your help! I know I'm making progress I just don't want anything going wrong stalling ect.. Cause its been cycling approx 5 weeks
 
boxtop
  • #35
Ok I've did another WC around 70% I will test again sometime tonight and post results. Thank you all for your help! I know I'm making progress I just don't want anything going wrong stalling ect.. Cause its been cycling approx 5 weeks
It took me three months to cycle my first tank. You are on your way though and all this hard work will pay off!!
 
Bsud
  • Thread Starter
  • #36
The issue is that having nitrite and nitrate readings that high might cause ur cycle to stall. Once your readings get close to zero, redose your ammonia to 2ppm and wait for it to go down. The water changes are not going to harm the BB. It is just that you dosed so much ammonia to begin with that there has been an accumulation of nitrites and nitrates. Your BB has begun to colonize but the BB that converts
nitrites to nitrates is likely not filly established yet. When your tank can take 2ppm of ammonia and convert to nitrite and then nitrate (so 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrites, and some level of nitrates) within 24 hrs you are likely cycled.
Ok after today's WC I now have ammonia .50ppm, nitrites closer to 2ppm this time, nitrates 10-20ppm this time, and pH still 6.8
 

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jhigg008
  • #37
Looks good! I think you are on the right track. Post tomorrow mornings results. Dont add any more ammonia yet
 
CindiL
  • #38
Let the ammonia drop to 0 and see where the nitrites are. Its ok to not dose ammonia for a day after they drop to 0 while you wait for the nitrite conversion to catch up and drop.
 
Bsud
  • Thread Starter
  • #39
Let the ammonia drop to 0 and see where the nitrites are. Its ok to not dose ammonia for a day after they drop to 0 while you wait for the nitrite conversion to catch up and drop.
Is it ok to not test for nitrates tommorow or do I need to test everything again? That nitrate test is a pain lol!
 
CindiL
  • #40
I think you'd be alright skipping nitrates tomorrow
I wouldn't let it get up towards 100ppm but you're far from that right now.
 

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