Questions while restarting 5 gal tank

I had an established tank that went out of commission after my betta passed. Recently I decided to get it up and running again (I left the filter running, but didn't do any maintenance on it for a few months), I changed the gravel out for sand but left some gravel in, as well as the spongy part of my filter and all of the decor (Driftwood, moss ball, silk plants and structures etc). I did change the insert for the filter not knowing that could possibly crash the cycle. Yesterday the tank read about 1ppm ammonia, 0 nitrite, 40-50 nitrate. I did a 45-50% water change and it reduced it to 0.50 ammonia and 20-30 nitrate. Today it is back up to 1ppm ammonia, and 30-40 nitrate. nitrite has been at 0 consistently. My question is, should I be performing water changes to reduce the amount of ammonia and nitrate, or should i be leaving the tank alone entirely to allow the ammonia to convert to nitrate, and THEN start water changes from there? Should I be supplementing ammonia? I do water changes with spring water since the water where i am isn't ideal. There are also no fish in the tank.

 

My question is, should I be performing water changes to reduce the amount of ammonia and nitrate, or should i be leaving the tank alone entirely to allow the ammonia to convert to nitrate, and THEN start water changes from there? Should I be supplementing ammonia?

Since there are no fish there is no reason to do WC. The tank will cycle quicker undisturbed. Yes, you will need to supplement ammonia at least once or twice. Once the ammonia and nitrite drops to zero in 24 hours or less you'll do a large WC and are good to go.

 

Welcome to Fishlore!

What are the parameters of your tap water? I have 8.1 pH which isnt ideal for a lot of things. My LFS is the same water. Depends on what is not ideal really.

 

Since there are no fish there is no reason to do WC. The tank will cycle quicker undisturbed. Yes, you will need to supplement ammonia at least once or twice. Once the ammonia and nitrite drops to zero in 24 hours or less you'll do a large WC and are good to go.

awesome! when will i know its time to supplement? right now the tank still stands at 1 ppm ammonia 0ppm nitrite and 30-40ppm nitrate

Welcome to Fishlore!

What are the parameters of your tap water? I have 8.1 pH which isnt ideal for a lot of things. My LFS is the same water. Depends on what is not ideal really.

Thanks! I'd need to test my tap water again to be sure but the worst thing about it is that it usually contains about 4ppm of ammonia in it

 

awesome! when will i know its time to supplement? right now the tank still stands at 1 ppm ammonia 0ppm nitrite and 30-40ppm nitrate

Thanks! I'd need to test my tap water again to be sure but the worst thing about it is that it usually contains about 4ppm of ammonia in it

Most recommend adding more ammonia once it gets close to 0.

What was the source for your present ammonia? Tap water with 4ppm sounds abnormally high. Most people dose to about 2-4 ppm when performing a fishless cycle.

 

So your tap water is your ammonia source. Don't do any water changes unless you want to dose ammonia.

 

Most recommend adding more ammonia once it gets close to 0.

What was the source for your present ammonia? Tap water with 4ppm sounds abnormally high. Most people dose to about 2-4 ppm when performing a fishless cycle.

the ammonia has stayed steady at 1ppm for the past 3 days, is this normal? Or should it be dropping? Also, do I need to be worried about my nitrates right now or should I just leave them be?

I was wrong about the tap water (I moved recently from an extremely rural/farmland kinda town where there was a lot of runoff in the water) my tap is about 1ppm ammonia here in the city

So your tap water is your ammonia source. Don't do any water changes unless you want to dose ammonia.

Got it! I'll be using my tap water for my ammonia source from now on. Can't believe I didn't think about that before ha ha

 

the ammonia has stayed steady at 1ppm for the past 3 days, is this normal? Or should it be dropping? Also, do I need to be worried about my nitrates right now or should I just leave them be?

I was wrong about the tap water (I moved recently from an extremely rural/farmland kinda town where there was a lot of runoff in the water) my tap is about 1ppm ammonia here in the city


Got it! I'll be using my tap water for my ammonia source from now on. Can't believe I didn't think about that before ha ha

Yes, it's normal for the ammonia to take several days or even 2 -3 weeks to drop. Especially with only 1ppm ammonia and/or cool temps, in my experience. Get some pure ammonia and dose to 2-4ppm. Also have the water temp set to at least 78-80 degrees. Fritz fishless fuel or Dr Tims ammonia is great for this because both are made expressly for aquarium cycling, so are safe to use and also come with easy to follow dosing instructions.

No, there is no need to be concerned about nitrates until the tank is cycled and ready for fish.

Tap water with 1ppm ammonia is fairly normal. (4ppm is not) It'll be fine for fish once the tank is cycled but it alone is not enough to build a strong cycle in a short period. Get the Fritz Fishless Fuel. (or comparable)

 

Yes, it's normal for the ammonia to take several days or even 2 -3 weeks to drop. Especially with only 1ppm ammonia and/or cool temps, in my experience. Get some pure ammonia and dose to 2-4ppm. Also have the water temp set to at least 78-80 degrees. Fritz fishless fuel or Dr Tims ammonia is great for this because both are made expressly for aquarium cycling, so are safe to use and also come with easy to follow dosing instructions.

No, there is no need to be concerned about nitrates until the tank is cycled and ready for fish.

Tap water with 1ppm ammonia is fairly normal. (4ppm is not) It'll be fine for fish once the tank is cycled but it alone is not enough to build a strong cycle in a short period. Get the Fritz Fishless Fuel. (or comparable)

I discovered that my heater was set pretty low for some reason, so I'm sure that wasn't helping. I've turned it up to 79 and ordered the Fritz fishless fuel which arrived today. I tested the water a few hours ago and it read at 0.50ppm ammonia, gonna add fritz fishless fuel to get it up to 2ppm and then observe for awhile!

So once the tank is cycled itll be okay to do water changes with tap water? or should I continue to use spring water?

 

So once the tank is cycled itll be okay to do water changes with tap water? or should I continue to use spring water?

Most people with tap water similar to yours use it for their tanks with great success. Bottled spring water would work too, but is an unnecessary expense and additional work to obtain it.

 

You can use your tap water now while cycling, or start using after the cycle is complete. If your concerned about the ammonia (a cycled tank will consume it) you could cut it with spring water. If you cycle your tank to 2-4ppm as suggested, your biofilter will have enough capacity to handle the ammonia in your tap water and the fish's output.

After your tank is cycled, do a large water change to remove nitrates. Use your tap water for the water change. You can then test to see how it handles the Ammonia in the tap water. If your tank is removing 2-4ppm while cycling, it should handle the 1ppm easily.

 

You can use your tap water now while cycling, or start using after the cycle is complete. If your concerned about the ammonia (a cycled tank will consume it) you could cut it with spring water. If you cycle your tank to 2-4ppm as suggested, your biofilter will have enough capacity to handle the ammonia in your tap water and the fish's output.

After your tank is cycled, do a large water change to remove nitrates. Use your tap water for the water change. You can then test to see how it handles the Ammonia in the tap water. If your tank is removing 2-4ppm while cycling, it should handle the 1ppm easily.

Most people with tap water similar to yours use it for their tanks with great success. Bottled spring water would work too, but is an unnecessary expense and additional work to obtain it.

Alright guys, been checking the water for the last 4 days. as of yesterday it read 0.25-0.50ppm ammonia, 0.25 nitrite, and 40 nitrate. Today, it reads what LOOKS like 0.25-0.50 ammonia, and 0 nitrite. I'm wondering if my test kit is a bit faulty. I'm using the API freshwater master test kit (this is the second one I've bought over the years) I've noticed I can never get the ammonia test to get to 0. What makes me think it's possibly faulty is that I tested a bottle of spring water I had, and even that came up 0.25-0.50ppm ammonia. I noticed this with the last API freshwater test kit I had as well. Does spring water contain ammonia, or do you think my test kit is just a little off? Thank you for all of the help!

 

I don't know about faulty test kits but there have been others who claim they are never able to get a true 0 reading, and so consider it to be zero. Could it be the lighting in the room? I would try another kit just to see if it's the same. And no, there shouldn't be any ammonia in bottled water... doesn't mean there couldn't be though.

 

I don't know about faulty test kits but there have been others who claim they are never able to get a true 0 reading, and so consider it to be zero. Could it be the lighting in the room? I would try another kit just to see if it's the same. And no, there shouldn't be any ammonia in bottled water... doesn't mean there couldn't be though.

I don't think it was lighting, I tried it in a few different types (white light, natural light, etc) and it all showed the same. I went out and bought distilled water and tested that as well, it also read 0.25-0.50 ppm and was exactly the same colour as the other test tubes from when I tested the spring water and my tank water. I feel like I can confidently say my tank is actually cycled, and now I just need to work on lowering the nitrates a little to a more comfortable number! will keep monitoring to make certain

 

Are you holding the tube against the card when you read it? That will make it look darker. The tube is not supposed to be touching the card when you read it.

Having said that, when using the API kit I can never tell weather it's reading zero on my tanks. I've used several master test kits over the years and that test has always been an issue for me too. It never looks to be zero, but not quite .25 either, so I just don't worry about it.

 

Yeah the readings are kinda annoying to decipher when they're that close together. If its that hard to tell the difference you can probably just not worry about it.

 

I took the liberty of getting a fish yesterday- I tested my tank again and compared it to distilled water. They are the same colour, except in certain lighting (natural lighting) you can tell that the distilled is the tiniest bit more yellow. This has me a little concerned. Assuming that the test is 100% right, that would mean I have 0.50 ammonia in the tank. I have a moss ball and a small anubias nana (sold as a "betta buddy") the anubias looks perfectly healthy but the moss ball looks albeit maybe a little... off colour. It doesn't look terrible, it just looks a little more dull than I think it should. the moss ball is much older than the anubias nana. I took both plants out in the hopes that maybe it was them causing something. I've never been too good with plants ha ha. I did a 20% water change yesterday, and then another 20% water change this morning for the sake of the nitrates (Both with spring water). parameters are about 0.25-0.50 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 20 nitrate. I've been using a little bit of Prime with the water changes just in case there really is ammonia in there. I also have a piece of driftwood in there, not sure if that could also be contributing

edit to add: I also put some Japanese dwarf pennywort in there a few weeks ago but took it all out a few days ago as some of it looked to be decaying. Semi-hoping that's what's causing the tiny bit of ammonia and that it will take care of itself in a few days

edit again: now wondering if maybe the filter itself has something to do with it. I am using the Aqueon minibow 5 gal tank with the HOB filter. In it I have one of the standard charcoal cartridges and it came with a piece of sponge as well. The water doesn't properly cover both if they're both in the filter, so I usually keep the sponge hidden in the back of the tank where it can be properly submerged and not dry out. I try not to replace the charcoal insert so that it doesn't mess with the cycle. Is there anything I should add to the filter that would maybe help?

 

Are you holding the tube against the card when you read it? That will make it look darker. The tube is not supposed to be touching the card when you read it.

The API directions say otherwise.

Is there anything I should add to the filter that would maybe help?

Do you have a pic of the filter? It is hard to say otherwise.

 

The API directions say otherwise.




Do you have a pic of the filter? It is hard to say otherwise.

Here's a pic of the filter - uncertain of what the white buildup is. I didn't wanna scrub it away just in case I shouldn't. the white stuff has also accumulated underneath the charcoal insert. The black specs are just a tiny bit of substrate.


I also forgot to mention I usually don't hold the tubes right up against the white part of the book. When I do press them against the white part, it seems to be a little closer to 0.25, I can see more of the yellow come through. When they're not touching the book it looks closer to 0.50. the tube I used to test the distilled water has been sitting out for quite awhile and has achieved the 'perfect 0' yellow colour, but only after it sat out for a long time, as initially it had a green tint. Starting to think my water is at 0.25, but still would prefer it to be 0 of course!

 

Here's a pic of the filter - uncertain of what the white buildup is. I didn't wanna scrub it away just in case I shouldn't. the white stuff has also accumulated underneath the charcoal insert. The black specs are just a tiny bit of substrate.
View attachment 850208
I also forgot to mention I usually don't hold the tubes right up against the white part of the book. When I do press them against the white part, it seems to be a little closer to 0.25, I can see more of the yellow come through. When they're not touching the book it looks closer to 0.50. the tube I used to test the distilled water has been sitting out for quite awhile and has achieved the 'perfect 0' yellow colour, but only after it sat out for a long time, as initially it had a green tint. Starting to think my water is at 0.25, but still would prefer it to be 0 of course!

I hold the tube on the card, tube touching the card, in the white area and put my back to a bright lit window.

That is a super strange filter. I dont even know where to start?

 

I hold the tube on the card, tube touching the card, in the white area and put my back to a bright lit window.

That is a super strange filter. I dont even know where to start?

that's what I've been doing as well! thank you for the suggestion, I can decipher the readings much better that way.

It is isn't it? definitely not my favourite feature of this tank haha

 

update: ammonia has risen to 1ppm after being at 0.25-0 for a few days. I'm not sure why this happened?

ammonia is 1ppm (maybe even between 1-2) ammonia, 0 nitrites, 40 nitrates. What should I do in this situation?

 

update: ammonia has risen to 1ppm after being at 0.25-0 for a few days. I'm not sure why this happened?

ammonia is 1ppm (maybe even between 1-2) ammonia, 0 nitrites, 40 nitrates. What should I do in this situation?

Change 50% or more to get it under .50 ppm and dose your prime. If it is still high tomorrow do it again. The next day again....the perks of a fish in cycle.

 

Change 50% or more to get it under .50 ppm and dose your prime. If it is still high tomorrow do it again. The next day again....the perks of a fish in cycle.

sounds good! I already did a 20% water change and dosed prime out of panic haha. Should I wait to do the 50% changes until tomorrow?

 

Just see what the ammonia is. If it is under .50 you will be fine until tomorrow. The goal is to keep it as low as possible. If it is still 50 range you can do another whatever gets it down change tonight. Then see tomorrow what it is.

 

Just see what the ammonia is. If it is under .50 you will be fine until tomorrow. The goal is to keep it as low as possible. If it is still 50 range you can do another whatever gets it down change tonight. Then see tomorrow what it is.

Sounds good!

I just tested and it seems to be at 0.25. I've heard prime can throw off readings, but not sure if that's true? Regardless I'll test tomorrow and see where we're at then

 

I tested again today about 24 hours after dosing prime - it's now at 0.50 ppm ammonia. Should I just dose more prime and not perform a water change?

 

No I don't ever recommend using prime in exchange for a WC. I would change 50% again myself.

 

No I don't ever recommend using prime in exchange for a WC. I would change 50% again myself.

okay! Performed a 50% water change and dosed with prime. Will check in tomorrow- Thanks for all the help! I've always struggled with this part of owning fish haha

 

My fish has now got a tear in his back fin that wasn't there before. do you think it's just a snag, or because of the fish-in cycle? I don't think I have anything especially sharp in the tank but I could be wrong. parameters today are: 1.0 ppm ammonia, 0 nitrites, and what i think is between 20-40 nitrates. will do another 50% water change today.

I would also like to note I had to change brands of spring water due to my usual brand being out. The pH of the new water is 7.0 while the old brand seemed to be around 8.0 as that is what my tank is at. I plan to stick with this new brand indefinitely so I'm not too awfully worried about the fluctuation causing stress (My tank is still at 8.0 pH, dropped by 0.2) but I felt like it was worth noting.

 

They can tear a fin just flaring sometimes. Just keep an eye on it. Not too bad.

Yes water change. I would dump a little at a time so the pH drop all at once doesn't shock them.

 

awesome, I'll definitely be keeping an eye on him. Water change has been done, did about 50% (Used just a little more than 2 gallons in a 5 gal) yet it seemed to drop the ammonia down to 0.25 ppm. pH dropped to somewhere between 7.4-7.6 (It's the highest on the low range pH test, and lowest on the high range pH test). Fish seems unbothered by all of this for the time being Will check in tomorrow

 

Todays readings - did I manage to do it??

A couple things to note: I did 2 distilled water tests today as a control group since I know that the ammonia test can come off green-ish when ammonia is actually at 0. However, both of the distilled tests came out more green than my tank water tests! I did 2 of each (4 in total) to be certain. I'm glad my tank water is more yellow, at the very least.

I also definitely have some brown algae in the tank, it's on the glass and some of the decor. I strongly believe this was due to me having abnormally high nitrates before I started trying to re-establish the tank months ago (I'm talking it was off the charts, higher or equal to 160ppm!)

my question is, is just scrubbing off the algae good enough to get rid of it? Would that cause any problems with the water quality?

Last question: What should my routine for water changes be now? Should I wait a week, and then do 20-25% water changes weekly from then on?

Also, the tear in my boys fin is looking better today! woohoo!

 

The brown algae is diatoms. They are usually found in a newer tank. You can clean it off, it wont harm anything but your eyes. It will go away once everything balances out.

I change 50% a week myself. You could ask a bunch of people and their answer would be different. I do it so my water stays closer to my tap water. You also need to add the depleted minerals the fish and plants need. If you have low Nitrates you could get away with less.

I would test for a few weeks though still to make sure everything is still good.

Glad his tail is getting better. Water changes also help with fin issues. Clean water will heal faster than dirty water! If you ever have fin rot issues.....WC< WC< WC! lol Clean water helps everything so why not do it.

 

Awesome! I'm going to continue to test the water everyday/every other day until I'm certain everything is okay.

The snag on his tail is a bit bigger today- I inspected the plants and decor. I have all silk plants, but some of them have harder plastic bits at the bottom. I snipped off any protruding plastic bits and buried the base of the plants deep in the sand, since the base of them is like a hard rocky type of material, and he likes to hang around them. I also turned the driftwood so that all the pointy parts were facing downwards rather than upwards. He likes to swim really close to the driftwood so it's definitely a factor as well. The good news is that there are no signs of fin rot as of now! Every other part of his fins look good, no black parts and nothing that looks like "melting"

I also have a couple of ornaments/hideouts in there such as a small japanese pagoda and a twisty looking piece of fake wood. I didn't know if maybe those could be a factor as well?

Ammonia is still at 0 as well thank goodness. He's eating well and very active. What are some things I can add to the tank to help with the healing of his tail in the mean time? I figured aquarium salt and maybe catappa almond leaves would be a good start? I think I may do a 20% water change as well

Pics attached for reference - Cupid couldn't help but be in the picture.





Also, I know his pectoral fins look a little strange, but I think it's just how he was born. He doesn't nip his fins or anything, they just form an interesting shape that I haven't seen in an elephant ear/dumbo betta before!